[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Ah Pek]

ah pek...jus pmed u...coolant leak from left block...haha...i wanna do coolant patching...=)

 

 

Aiyo!..warranty over already?..why they didn't solve your problem. Amyway..pm you already.

[STRYKER]

well. mine is converted. i am still using the original undertray. however some configurations have to be made. it has to be cut and re-angled. i'm not really sure how to explain it. but if you really wanna see up close we could meet up for coffee or something. i'm really bad with explanations. haha.

 

tanx bro...but i haven take my bike out yet....they still doing up my bike.changed spec 3 tail and spraying.it'll take a while.i'll just see how they do up the undertray.if still got holes den maybe i'll have to improvise myself...maybe u can post a pix of how ur undertray and above ur rear tyre looks like...

[STRYKER]

How much is it to change Ver S tail to Spec 3. I like the look of the tail. Any mech tht does a good job on tht?

 

i've yet to see how gd the workmanship of my spec3 tail done by Republic Motor. Price wise u can check out the advertiser board and check with the respective workshops.i would recommend Republic Motor and Unique Motor.but unique motor being a reputable shop,all prices seems fixed and no bargaining from my point of view.some shops,esp those that u frequent,they can give u lower price.its up to u which shop u go to n how much u pay for it.the bottom line is,u feel good....

[STRYKER]

To all Non-vtec,

 

I need help. Earlier in the afternoon yesterday, I walk to my bike and start the engine. Engine run in 1st attempt. After I notice it is raining outside, I switch off the engine and took out my raincoat from under the seat.

After wearing my gear around 5mins, I try starting the engine. It failed in many attempts:cry: Anway, there is ignitions. Just now at midnite I tried again. It will not start.

Any info to rectifier this is much appreciated!

Further info, my batt n rectifier changed last year in early november. Spark plug changed last year august.

 

 

for me,if there's cranking but bike wnt fire up,i'll just try push starting.if that works,i'll let it warm up awhile and off the engine b4 i try starting with the button again...

[cheongsteron]

Aiyo!..warranty over already?..why they didn't solve your problem. Amyway..pm you already.

 

HAHA haven over leh...

[kifakw]

first post for page 250.

 

ups. hahaha.

 

post a picture of your taillight when your bike is out from republic motor. heh

[N_RIDER]

Any kind soul may advice. A pb1 with weakened or flattened battery,push start(engine comes to live) and with continual riding till bike dies off and it was unable to push start again. The causes could be:

 

A) CDI/rectifier burned as battery unable to store current after persistent riding?

B) Fuse burned after prolong riding with "death battery"?

C) Or a weakened or near dead battery can't held on for riding?

 

Or any other cause?(affirmed with sufficient fuel n kill off switch in running)

Edited July 25, 2010 by N_RIDER

[Ah Pek]

Any kind soul may advice. A battery flattened pb1,push start(engine comes to live) and continual riding till bike goes off and unable to push start again. The causes:

 

A) CDI burned as battery unable to store current?

B) Fuse burned after prolong riding with "death battery"?

 

Or any other cause?(affirmed with sufficient fuel n kill off switch in running)

 

The magneto or rectifier or both screwed liao. If battery is quite new..go get it charged in nearby mototiam and after bike start, check your charging output..shoul be 13.5v dc or 14.5v dc. If you read 15v dc and abov..ur rectifier fried liao!..magento coil may also be screwed but change rectifier first.

 

Can be just bad battery problem ONLY oso.

[N_RIDER]

The magneto or rectifier or both screwed liao. If battery is quite new..go get it charged in nearby mototiam and after bike start, check your charging output..shoul be 13.5v dc or 14.5v dc. If you read 15v dc and abov..ur rectifier fried liao!..magento coil may also be screwed but change rectifier first.

 

Can be just bad battery problem ONLY oso.

 

Thanks for the prompt reply. My battery is old and I knew it life span is over,considering it was changed sometime in feb 2008,hopefully the problem lies with the battery.

 

Infact,as mentioned I need to push start and ride to the workshop and got it change,but the ride dies off in the midst

[Ah Pek]

Thanks for the prompt reply. My battery is old and I knew it life span is over,considering it was changed sometime in feb 2008,hopefully the problem lies with the battery.

 

Infact,as mentioned I need to push start and ride to the workshop and got it change,but the ride dies off in the midst

 

After the battery was changed..a good mech would have check your charging voltage. If you have to push start again..it could be back battery installation (terminal may be still loose) or rectifier or magneto or both not working partially.

 

The battery does not power your bike but only to help start the bike alternator (magneto coil) and an alternator is the unit that provides your bike electrical load..battery only assists and they don't last taht long in provision for it.

 

So..go back to the mototiam and check your charging output..should read 13.5v dc to 14.2v dc. If you don't get this..its sign of weak M_coil or rectifier.

[cheongsteron]

haha thanks ah pek...so pai seh last min arrange with you...anyway i got 1 question...usually i ride...i drag at most 8 for some gears...den go at high speed...my temp light wont come out....but when i drag and hit red line or more den go high speed...my temp light will come out and its not consistent...i hope its just electrical problem...cos my fan cuts on...my thermostat is new....coolant just done... =|

[Ah Pek]

haha thanks ah pek...so pai seh last min arrange with you...anyway i got 1 question...usually i ride...i drag at most 8 for some gears...den go at high speed...my temp light wont come out....but when i drag and hit red line or more den go high speed...my temp light will come out and its not consistent...i hope its just electrical problem...cos my fan cuts on...my thermostat is new....coolant just done... =|

 

Yours is nott he first case..there is someone here that ahs its like as good as "on" most of the time but no sign of overheating. I believe his meter set is those $200+ complete set type.

 

If yours is original and never been damaged before, I can only think that the temperatire sensor on the thermostat there is partially 'faulty'. Not sure a new temp sensor comes with your thermostat housing though.

[lekiboy]

Yah..that's right and may have to open the throttle a bit if the engine don't fire up. Opening throttle would allow some fuel to the carbs to be force into the chamber..but too much can wet the plugs and won't fire bekuz the spark may be week due to bad grounding or weak battery. Pause and wait then

 

If engine does start up.release back the choke immediately and rev gently (don't blip). Once idling stabilised..give the bike a 2-3 hi-rev blow out at 13k rpm.

 

Good luck. Still got problem..let me know.

 

if all of the above doesn't work, you may want to check your fuel diaphragm also inside your fuel c0ck assembly..happened to me also- there is cranking but no fuel is coming into the carbs... diaphragm is torn already..

 

your choice- change whole fuel c0ck assembly or just buy a repair kit ( new diaphragm) ...

 

keep us updated on your bike, bud.

[Zihui7]

hey ah pek,

 

wanted to ask, i changed my tong pipe to a original one, so does my bike therefore have to go thru' tuning to restore its performance, if have to, what must be adjusted? ie. air intake, fuel supply etc. Haha cos feel like wanting to its restore its formal greatness

(Now its at 330km before reserve) Thanks

[Ah Pek]

hey ah pek,

 

wanted to ask, i changed my tong pipe to a original one, so does my bike therefore have to go thru' tuning to restore its performance, if have to, what must be adjusted? ie. air intake, fuel supply etc. Haha cos feel like wanting to its restore its formal greatness

(Now its at 330km before reserve) Thanks

 

 

No..no, don't do anything. Normally ppl tong for because they are deaf only. No carbs tunning required unless previous owner is from woodbridge and tuned his carbs just bekuz he tonged! Leave it as it si..your mileage clocked is very good.

[Huatster888]

yeah ....good mileage.... mine 300 nia lol duno how 2 squeeze more out lol

[Ah Pek]

yeah ....good mileage.... mine 300 nia lol duno how 2 squeeze more out lol

 

Carry your bike to work..LOL!

[STRYKER]

How much is it to change Ver S tail to Spec 3. I like the look of the tail. Any mech tht does a good job on tht?

 

ok bro here's how my undertray looks like aft fitted with spec 3 tail...im quite happy with it so i took some pix to show those interested...

[Zihui7]

No..no, don't do anything. Normally ppl tong for because they are deaf only. No carbs tunning required unless previous owner is from woodbridge and tuned his carbs just bekuz he tonged! Leave it as it si..your mileage clocked is very good.

 

Oh i see... my this previous owner definitely tong his pipe, so i thought when changed back to original pipe must also tune back carb or something...

 

Another issue, sometimes when i kicked gear it engage in neutral sometimes, so meaning that i rev up or turn throttle, the bike doesnt move, what could be the prob?

[Ah Pek]

Oh i see... my this previous owner definitely tong his pipe, so i thought when changed back to original pipe must also tune back carb or something...

 

Another issue, sometimes when i kicked gear it engage in neutral sometimes, so meaning that i rev up or turn throttle, the bike doesnt move, what could be the prob?

 

Errr..don't understand your second question leh?..you mean when u enage first gear..let go clutch..the bike do't move?

 

If this is the case..your biting point is out due to excessive clutch cable stretch..adjust can liao.

[salem77]

After the battery was changed..a good mech would have check your charging voltage. If you have to push start again..it could be back battery installation (terminal may be still loose) or rectifier or magneto or both not working partially.

 

The battery does not power your bike but only to help start the bike alternator (magneto coil) and an alternator is the unit that provides your bike electrical load..battery only assists and they don't last taht long in provision for it.

 

So..go back to the mototiam and check your charging output..should read 13.5v dc to 14.2v dc. If you don't get this..its sign of weak M_coil or rectifier.

 

well dat happened to me too....get a new battery bt charging nt good, so chg my rectifier as well ....

 

ok bro here's how my undertray looks like aft fitted with spec 3 tail...im quite happy with it so i took some pix to show those interested...

 

bro, wer u did ur spec3 tail conversion ??? price wif installation ..... thnx

[salem77]

yeah ....good mileage.... mine 300 nia lol duno how 2 squeeze more out lol

 

my pb1 cn still get 350 b4 reserve ......

[kifakw]

ok bro here's how my undertray looks like aft fitted with spec 3 tail...im quite happy with it so i took some pix to show those interested...

 

take a picture of your taillight.

[Metal_Heart]

yeah ....good mileage.... mine 300 nia lol duno how 2 squeeze more out lol

 

Bro, I have the same prob. Mine was 305km b4 reserve. I tried finding the prob, realised the prob was not with the bike, but with my right wrist

My riding style abit hard. But sometimes its good for the bike too

[Metal_Heart]

Oh i see... my this previous owner definitely tong his pipe, so i thought when changed back to original pipe must also tune back carb or something...

 

Another issue, sometimes when i kicked gear it engage in neutral sometimes, so meaning that i rev up or turn throttle, the bike doesnt move, what could be the prob?

 

You mean u kick from 1st to 2nd? then stuck at neutral and got the embarassing VOOOM!