[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[sihan0110]

Ah pek eveyr morning I start my bike. Got some knocking sound. Why ah. After warm up no more sound

[Ah Pek]

Ah pek eveyr morning I start my bike. Got some knocking sound. Why ah. After warm up no more sound

 

Cannot tell by ur discription leh..drop by Ah Fook workshop and asked him what he thinks.

[tiku]

Ah pek eveyr morning I start my bike. Got some knocking sound. Why ah. After warm up no more sound

does the knocking exist when u clutch in (when bike haven fully warm up yet).. then u let go clutch the sound comes back again?

[douglaschap]

Anyone here has a super 4 2nd hand spedo /techometer for sale...Mine broke

Secondly i have a PB1 ...what exhaust i can change?Can i just change the muffler

[sihan0110]

does the knocking exist when u clutch in (when bike haven fully warm up yet).. then u let go clutch the sound comes back again?

 

only will have the sound in thee morning . when the engine is very cold . than can heard metal and metal knocking sound . been like this since i ride the bike . quite curious why like that. when i clutch in or never clutch in is the same

[tiku]

only will have the sound in thee morning . when the engine is very cold . than can heard metal and metal knocking sound . been like this since i ride the bike . quite curious why like that. when i clutch in or never clutch in is the same

 

oh.. different from mine.. everything u said is similar to mine other than the part when clutching in... urs got knocking sound, like a ducati ?? just joking ..

 

ur still can go bikeshop ask for advise... mine is i ride there liao, sound gone -_-...cos warm up liao...

[bluesurfer]

its the shim... normally its normal when u hear that when eng is cold. cos the eo haven go up to the valve to lub that area so u hear that sound. if the sound still comes on after eng is hot, then shim has worn off. time to do top block overhaul to replace the shim. but mech told me its not dangerous to ride so really not worth to open up the eng just to change that small part.

[sihan0110]

its the shim... normally its normal when u hear that when eng is cold. cos the eo haven go up to the valve to lub that area so u hear that sound. if the sound still comes on after eng is hot, then shim has worn off. time to do top block overhaul to replace the shim. but mech told me its not dangerous to ride so really not worth to open up the eng just to change that small part.

 

oic . k k k . once engine warm up dont have the metal knocking sound . only happen in the morning .

[sihan0110]

oh.. different from mine.. everything u said is similar to mine other than the part when clutching in... urs got knocking sound, like a ducati ?? just joking ..

 

ur still can go bikeshop ask for advise... mine is i ride there liao, sound gone -_-...cos warm up liao...

 

btw i just check when i clutch in dont have the sound .

how i wish my super 4 sound like ducati , haha ducati have sound due to dry clutch right ?

Edited October 30, 2010 by sihan0110

[kifakw]

anyone has got this problem

 

after your engine is warmed up for half an hour ride or so

 

you stopped at a traffic light for a min or so

 

you want to move off, you release the clutch to find the biting point & turn the same amount of throttle, just when you started riding for the day.

 

bike totally no power to move off, have to turn the throttle so much more before it moves off

 

the only way to overcome this problem is to blip the throttle before you move off

 

this happens only at random interval and not always.

 

can anyone who has this problem now or before advice?

[bluesurfer]

I tink should be the carburetor. Need some tuning Liao...

[kifakw]

its only when moving off from idle @ traffic light.

 

when I have some speed be it 5 or 10 km/h or in the midst of changing gears etc, all got no problem

 

and sometimes before moving off from idle, when i blip the throttle the rev'd go down like 0.3 - 0.5 k, sounds as though engine is about to stall but it never stall though.

[tiku]

btw i just check when i clutch in dont have the sound .

how i wish my super 4 sound like ducati , haha ducati have sound due to dry clutch right ?

 

oh.. then i think u have the same prob wif me liao... hmm ducati dry clutch ah, im not pro in this..sorry =p ..LOL.. since when u have this prob?? too bad tt time i bought my bike, the seller just rode, so the engine is warm up...didnt notice the sound.... i have been living wif it for 1yr liao..LOL.. one thing i used to do is to clutch in when warm up...lol

[Ah Pek]

anyone has got this problem

 

after your engine is warmed up for half an hour ride or so

 

you stopped at a traffic light for a min or so

 

you want to move off, you release the clutch to find the biting point & turn the same amount of throttle, just when you started riding for the day.

 

bike totally no power to move off, have to turn the throttle so much more before it moves off

 

the only way to overcome this problem is to blip the throttle before you move off

 

this happens only at random interval and not always.

 

can anyone who has this problem now or before advice?

 

What model version is ur S4? This could be due to intermittent electrical problem.

[sihan0110]

hmmm since i get the bike . maybe going 1 year plus . i use to it already . but curious that why come and ask . haha .

[kifakw]

ah pek, it's a parallel imported ver s from the JDM market with vtec frame if i am not wrong

 

looks like a vtec but got no vtec and its a version s

 

Vehicle Make: HONDA

Vehicle Model: CB400SFYJ

Chassis No.: NC391800686

Engine No.: NC23E2800690

[Ah Pek]

ah pek, it's a parallel imported ver s from the JDM market with vtec frame if i am not wrong

 

looks like a vtec but got no vtec and its a version s

 

Vehicle Make: HONDA

Vehicle Model: CB400SFYJ

Chassis No.: NC391800686

Engine No.: NC23E2800690

 

What about the meter type?...is it like those Vtec 1 ones? If not or neither..their are electronic board circuitory inside that cost such behaviour. This is base on past cases of others having such weird problem. Sometime its the supply line to the circuit board that is giving the problem as they copper wire corrodes over period of time. In short..its a pain in the neck thingy when comes to trouble shooting.

[kifakw]

http://images.idealhere.com/AM05-06-0011/001.jpg

 

it is something like that, just that the fuel meter is not in the middle instead it's at the bottom left of the tachometer

 

and the words of the digits are not orange in color but white in color instead

 

other than that, its the meter i'm having right now

 

so the process to troubleshooting the sudden loss of power is damn long, cruelsome and difficult?

 

 

 

sometimes when i squeeze to the front of the stop line, i am about to move off but totally not moving off due to the loss of power. if i'm the driver, i'll be thinking "squeeze all the way to the front but yet you move off like a tortoise" giving riders a bad name.

[Ah Pek]

http://images.idealhere.com/AM05-06-0011/001.jpg

 

it is something like that, just that the fuel meter is not in the middle instead it's at the bottom left of the tachometer

 

and the words of the digits are not orange in color but white in color instead

 

other than that, its the meter i'm having right now

 

so the process to troubleshooting the sudden loss of power is damn long, cruelsome and difficult?

 

This is a version "S" meter.."white"?...never heard of leh. May be take a pic and show us.

[kifakw]

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w274/kifakw/2010-07-05_20-36-03_431.jpg

 

my meter is as above

 

damn sian loh everytime want to move off totally no torque to move off at all

 

this problem just keep coming back at random intervals

[Ah Pek]

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w274/kifakw/2010-07-05_20-36-03_431.jpg

 

my meter is as above

 

damn sian loh everytime want to move off totally no torque to move off at all

 

this problem just keep coming back at random intervals

 

Oh ****...this is a version "R" meter. Disassemblr the meter casing behind and check for loose connection and also the two connector inide your headlamp. See if anything unusally. Disconnect the connectors there and see if there is water in it.

[kifakw]

i did disassemble my meter casing to fix the LED due to poor workmanship.

 

but headlamp i didn't disassemble it before though.

 

will ah fook be able to check out the connectors etc for me ah pek?

 

what time are they opened till daily?

[Ah Pek]

i did disassemble my meter casing to fix the LED due to poor workmanship.

 

but headlamp i didn't disassemble it before though.

 

will ah fook be able to check out the connectors etc for me ah pek?

 

what time are they opened till daily?

 

No lah..don't asked him to do that..may incurred cost due to tedious troubleshooting. what u can do is to tell him about ur bike behaviour and see what he say. After that..visit a few more bike shop and see what the rest say.

 

However I suggest you just open up ur headlamp and look for the two connector from the meter. Its very simple...its the same one in the pic u shown..red and white I think. Just disconnect them and push it back on again. as for opening up the headlamp..its only the front segment which has two or three small philip screws only depending on model type (non Vtec got 3). Its a very simple task...and don't forget..this 'solution' is only a suggestion. You may want to check if your vaccumm hose to the fuel cock is cracked or torn at it lips oso as poor suction at idling speed can caused less fuel flow to your carbs.

[kifakw]

u may want to check if your vaccumm hose to the fuel cock is cracked or torn at it lips oso as poor suction at idling speed can caused less fuel flow to your carbs.

 

is it the rubber tube below the fuel tank that is connecting from the fuel tank to the engine?

[Ah Pek]

u may want to check if your vaccumm hose to the fuel cock is cracked or torn at it lips oso as poor suction at idling speed can caused less fuel flow to your carbs.

 

is it the rubber tube below the fuel tank that is connecting from the fuel tank to the engine?

 

Yah...dats the one.