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Posted

Changed spark plug and found out that one of them rust beyond recognition...could the problem be due to water in fuel tank? Or does it mean that got small crack in cylinder head?

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Posted

Hi Ah pek, what is the sympton of battery going to flatt?

 

As mentioned recently, when my bike come to stop at traffice light, the engine will like dies off and got to restart again.

Any idea? dirty air filter? service carb? battery flat?

Posted
He's right about better to pump b4 hitting reserve as the flow takes over can be very slow and bike becomes very sluggish especially if u happens to be on a slope either up or down due to the tank at an angle. But as pumping at 230 km..its kinda 'too early' lah..290 0r 300km depending on how much normally u would hit reserve should be ok. For me..once I'm close and felt little jerks..I switch ove rto reserve liao if its a non Vtec.

 

The breather tube is attached under the fuel tank. There is a larger one too and that's the over flow tube. Its better to remove the smaller one (breather) and normally the sharp bend is caused by when the tube is not starighten and putting back the tank bends it. The other caused are those ppl who have installed "Scottoiler". As the suction pressure is karpoe from the vaccum tube..it affects the suction of the on/off release of the fuel kock diaphgram that releases petrol to the carbs via the fuel tube from the fuel kock. Take note that the vaccum tube cannot be too long when relacing a new one..the inner diameter and lenth is "designed" for the rate of velocity and suction for the fuel kock diaphgram. Lower end peformance is not affected but at high end rpm..yes.

 

To resolve the tubing problem..just lift up the thank and make sure the breather tube is straighten that's all..better still..don't attached it (*no harm).

 

 

welcome ah pek back.. ah pek the day after u post the previous reply, my bike stall again at expressway... i open up the tank but nv hear any hissss sound... not too sure is it bcos im in the tunnel, noise reflection affects my hearing.. if really no hiss sound wat could be the prob? or have to try removing the breather tube first? then see how things go?

WTS givi e16 smile box, with led @$20

 

 

interested party , do PM me..

Posted
Hi Ah pek, what is the sympton of battery going to flatt?

 

As mentioned recently, when my bike come to stop at traffice light, the engine will like dies off and got to restart again.

Any idea? dirty air filter? service carb? battery flat?

 

Err im not Ah Pek but the way you describe, have you changed the battery?

 

Symptoms i know are headlight flickering, speedometer light flickering when idle.

 

The indicator panel board lights also flickering while idle and when you move off.

 

Thats all the signs i encounter before

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee289/SingaporeBikes/Siggy/GothRod_Siggy.jpg

Proud owner of GODSENDWORX's custom made Mesh

Posted
Err im not Ah Pek but the way you describe, have you changed the battery?

 

Symptoms i know are headlight flickering, speedometer light flickering when idle.

 

The indicator panel board lights also flickering while idle and when you move off.

 

Thats all the signs i encounter before

 

What being said here is correct but DO NOTE that the battery is only a "supplement" as the bulk of electrical load to power ur bike is from the magneto. So in this case..the battery is weak because the battery is not being charged. It takes two important components to keep a battery healthy and that is the magneto coil (alternator ir generator sometime called) and the rectifier (also knownas regulator or AC to DC Converter).

 

In simple laymen words..the battery and the starter motor is like a 2 stroke bike kick starter and only to start the bike firing so the generator (magnetor coil and stator) gets to work to provide AC (Alternating Current) output to be converted to DC (Direct Current) by the regulator (rectifier) which in turn provide trickling charging to the battery and DC to the pair of ignition coil to provide the "sparks" to the spark plug. In this line of "assembly" (even the wire or its' connector)..if one of them don't work..ur bike would not function properly.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
welcome ah pek back.. ah pek the day after u post the previous reply, my bike stall again at expressway... i open up the tank but nv hear any hissss sound... not too sure is it bcos im in the tunnel, noise reflection affects my hearing.. if really no hiss sound wat could be the prob? or have to try removing the breather tube first? then see how things go?

 

No need to hear sound in this case peculiar to ur situation..as long as the fuel tank cap is opened and than closed again and u can start the bike straight away..it's definitely the breather tube 'choke' liao.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted (edited)
Hi Ah pek, what is the sympton of battery going to flatt?

 

As mentioned recently, when my bike come to stop at traffice light, the engine will like dies off and got to restart again.

Any idea? dirty air filter? service carb? battery flat?

 

Weak cranking when the starter motor is faltering due to lack of power to crank from the lost of correct current values from the battery. This does not confirmed that ur battery is spoiled..could be that the coil or rectifer or both not functioning providing enough charge to the battery...even a new battery last a week or so only. If u jnow that ur battery has never been changed for donkey years..then its the battery but this can be determined only by checking the charging voltage of ur rectifier voltage output at 13.2 to 14.2V dc.

Edited by Ah Pek

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
ah pek........thks for ur advise the other day on the phone............anyway when start bike got tick tick sound for a while and pull clutch got some sound like something loose....any advise...............and aso wat eo that u were taking about bro...........i might want to try it....??$$

 

The ticking sound is ok if after engine runs hot when it goes away. As for ur clutching in sound..its normal if all things work as normal..can hear the sound could be bekuz eo grade (working wif old worn parts) too thin or clutch cable need adjustment. Can't really fault till I see the bike.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi guys, I got my pb1 but looks like it's having some problems.

 

1) fuel leak under the petrol turn off/on knot. It's not this major leak , but can feel the damp at the silver part under the knot

 

 

2) temp light lighted up on/off after riding for 30 mins. According to the previous owner , the coolant fan n pump have been replaced.

 

 

Before I push to the bike mech , any advise I can check before burning a hole in my pocket?

 

Thanks

Posted
Hi guys, I got my pb1 but looks like it's having some problems.

 

1) fuel leak under the petrol turn off/on knot. It's not this major leak , but can feel the damp at the silver part under the knot

 

 

2) temp light lighted up on/off after riding for 30 mins. According to the previous owner , the coolant fan n pump have been replaced.

 

 

Before I push to the bike mech , any advise I can check before burning a hole in my pocket?

 

Thanks

 

most important is there any coolant in the reservoir tank? does the bike feels very hot after every ride? check any leaking at the left & right side of top block. a mech told me some owner did not bother to put any coolant, so that you wont notice any coolant leaking in the crack engine block!

Posted
ah pek you got any voltmetre for sale ?

 

I don't have lah bro..but if u wanna get..better to get a waterproof analog type. There is one I can reommend is cheap and good but available only in Johore some bike_tiam...brand is "Racing Boy"...comes in a chrome housing.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hey hey the man is back. Welcome back Ah Pek

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee289/SingaporeBikes/Siggy/GothRod_Siggy.jpg

Proud owner of GODSENDWORX's custom made Mesh

Posted
Hey hey the man is back. Welcome back Ah Pek

 

Heh_heh GothRod...thanks for the welcome..feels good when u are thought of ;0)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi guys, I got my pb1 but looks like it's having some problems.

 

1) fuel leak under the petrol turn off/on knot. It's not this major leak , but can feel the damp at the silver part under the knot

 

 

2) temp light lighted up on/off after riding for 30 mins. According to the previous owner , the coolant fan n pump have been replaced.

 

 

Before I push to the bike mech , any advise I can check before burning a hole in my pocket?

 

Thanks

 

 

Read up a bit on the net. For the case 1, The part that I can feel the petrol leaking is called petc0ck . Could it be due to wear n tear ? Possible to repair or need to replace the whole part?

 

Anyone? Ah Pek?

 

 

Thanks

Posted

Hi Seniors/fellow bikers,

 

this question have been on my mind for quite sometime,

I'm in dilemma of gettin either cb400 spec 3 (Because of HISS)or version s..

 

What did u guys do to prevent 'Version S' from getting stolen? (My main issue)

As version s has no HISS..

 

What is the difference between this two bike beside HISS,Vtec?? Acceleration?

 

Really appreciate your guidance..

 

Lancez

Posted
Read up a bit on the net. For the case 1, The part that I can feel the petrol leaking is called petc0ck . Could it be due to wear n tear ? Possible to repair or need to replace the whole part?

 

Anyone? Ah Pek?

 

 

Thanks

 

God has spoken..the diaphragm inside the fuel kock is lightly damage liao..have the whole unit replace is better..cost about $120 I think. Don't get the kit repair set about $30..installation may cause it to leak again as it require precision placing and even screwing of the seal and diaphragm flat down. Not sure if this is ur problem bekuz the leak u described can just be the fuel tube to the kock has plier bite holes or not properly seated due to it being cut shorter...so check first.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

this question have been on my mind for quite sometime,

I'm in dilemma of gettin either cb400 spec 3 (Because of HISS)or version s..

 

What did u guys do to prevent 'Version S' from getting stolen? (My main issue)

As version s has no HISS..

 

This is not the way to decide which model of S4 to buy..first time I heard. To me..HISS or no HISS..they wanna steal ur bike..they know how to break it and ride off or carry it off in less than 1 min.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
God has spoken..the diaphragm inside the fuel kock is lightly damage liao..have the whole unit replace is better..cost about $120 I think. Don't get the kit repair set about $30..installation may cause it to leak again as it require precision placing and even screwing of the seal and diaphragm flat down. Not sure if this is ur problem bekuz the leak u described can just be the fuel tube to the kock has plier bite holes or not properly seated due to it being cut shorter...so check first.

 

 

Thank u almighty ah pek :bow:

Posted

Hi Ah pek,

 

thx for the replied =D

 

for me, i do prefer Version S as spec3 is overpriced

but i'm afraid of bike getting stolen (e.g. use of "master-key")

 

reading through the forum, some bro/sis stated vtec doesn't

make the bike faster, in that case acceleration

of the 2 bike is similar?

 

Any difference between the two bike?

 

AhPek, what will you do if you are in my shoe?

 

I know i'm being abit draggy and naggy, plz pardon me :cheers:

 

Thank man I appreciate it =D

 

Lancez

Posted
Hi Ah pek,

 

thx for the replied =D

 

for me, i do prefer Version S as spec3 is overpriced

but i'm afraid of bike getting stolen (e.g. use of "master-key")

 

reading through the forum, some bro/sis stated vtec doesn't

make the bike faster, in that case acceleration

of the 2 bike is similar?

 

Any difference between the two bike?

 

AhPek, what will you do if you are in my shoe?

 

I know i'm being abit draggy and naggy, plz pardon me :cheers:

 

Thank man I appreciate it =D

 

Lancez

 

No worries..good to asked questions (smart one of course)..we all learn. There are really not much of a difference between them bikes as both are of 53 horsepower at max RPM except for inception of "Vtec" into one of them. From what I understand and read the days Vtec was implemented..it was suppose to better the non Vtec in fuel consumption for those who does lots of city commuting. When not in Vtec mode..though the bike has 16 valves..only 8 are actually working thus to say and simply put..its not in hi-rev mode riding but efficient enough to eprformance like regular power bike. But after 6.x k rpm (depending on which Vtec) kicks in (I consider this where most regular performance bike call it "power band" of a designated engine)..all 16 vavles are used (16 sounds like a lot but these valves are lighter and smaller) and its where one would felt the difference in sudden surge of "go" performance. This surge gets more gentle from Vtec 1 to Vtec 3 model as they were refined along in so call "progresse" models.

 

Whatever it is as compare to non Vtec version..Vtec system has added quite a bit of extra mechcanical components to its config (oil pressure sensor, eletrical sensor for speed and rev sensor..etc) and setup thus one expect more maintenance in cost in case of part piece failures. Also..there is a reason as to why the Vtec version of S4 comes with 44 tooth for the back sproket instead of the 42 tooth that's on non Vtec..my guess is as good as yours..yes, to compensate for the lag in acceleration due to only 8 valves performance compared to non Vtec 16 valves all the way from minimum k rpm at start/go. Moreover..each progress model are made lighter as from Vtec 1. I can go on but guess what I say suffice more or less..and so in summary when in comes to "acceleration"..both are about the same as Vtec though riding on 8 valves below 6.xK rpm is compromise by gears design and weight cut here and there. As for FC..Vtec doesn't really shine as it should but one has yet to really test both bikes in city riding but IMHO..I guess it's all the same.

 

"HISS"..it's to me and electronic thingy that makes things more expensive to have and safe guard ur bike. At a point in time or anytime, it will fail and at anytime u can loose the key. I believe its basically a key with and integrated EPROM (Eraseable Programing Read Only Memory) that works when inserted (contact) with the bike iginition switch (also has a soft control On/Off responder) and so..if u asked me..no, I won't want to have that but rather the conventional mechanical On/Off...make my life with less worries. Take note that inserting and pulling of each time..there is wear and tear to the key...and if I'm not wrong..the EPROM is subjected to magnetic damage.

 

So..it is a to each his own as which bike to buy but comes to performance, its all the same. But do note that you are not looking at buying these bikes that are both still "new" and available on the market. If a brand new non Vtec is still available..I'll get one rather than Vtec.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hey Guys, i have been experiencing hard to change gear recently. Very tight and cannot get into neutral (except after i power down the bike). Clutch plate and clutch cable relatively new, could it be chain and spocket problem? I haven been lubing and cleaning my chain. :D

Posted
Hey Guys, i have been experiencing hard to change gear recently. Very tight and cannot get into neutral (except after i power down the bike). Clutch plate and clutch cable relatively new, could it be chain and spocket problem? I haven been lubing and cleaning my chain. :D

 

Usually difficult gear changes doesn't attribute to chain and sprocket. Maybe you have to ask your bike shop to help you oil your clutch cable. If not, you may want to check out your engine oil. Cos it also affects the gear changes.

~ Future Ride ~

CBR600rr :thumb:

 

~ Current Drive ~

Kia Cerato Forte SX 1.6 SJU

 

~ Previous Rides ~

1. Spark 135 FBA | 2. NSR 150 SP FS | 3. Yamaha x1 FY | 4. Honda s4 verS FP

Posted
Hi Seniors/fellow bikers,

 

this question have been on my mind for quite sometime,

I'm in dilemma of gettin either cb400 spec 3 (Because of HISS)or version s..

 

What did u guys do to prevent 'Version S' from getting stolen? (My main issue)

As version s has no HISS..

 

What is the difference between this two bike beside HISS,Vtec?? Acceleration?

 

Really appreciate your guidance..

 

Lancez

 

Bike got HISS or no HISS is the same leh. Just a key recognition device. Make it sound like Wah.

They dun need to steal your bike, take your parts can already. Endcan, foot rest, lever, mirrors etc.

Its so easy, if i were you i wont even worry about having HISS or not.

 

If you lost the whole bike then you really suay, no worries still got insurance to help. Thats why we buy this things.

 

U cannot prevent bike from being stolen, u see how people tow bikes? its the same deal, just push up the lorry.

 

Devices you can consider is like the chains and the disc brake locket, prevent the drive away and tow.

Motoworld got sell, its like how u lock the bicycle.

 

Other than that nothing much i assume.

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee289/SingaporeBikes/Siggy/GothRod_Siggy.jpg

Proud owner of GODSENDWORX's custom made Mesh

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