[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Ah Pek]

When cold start, I don't have to throttle. Well maybe it's just me, but thanks Ah Pek!

 

 

But one think though..if the spark plug is new..most of the time need not twist throttle when bike is hot..this applies to non Vtec only. As for Vtec bike..when stll warm afetr parking sometime..have to twist throttle though plug is new..from what I understand, the base cup of the carb is smaller and lower as comapared. IMHO

[muhdshukry]

But one think though..if the spark plug is new..most of the time need not twist throttle when bike is hot..this applies to non Vtec only. As for Vtec bike..when stll warm afetr parking sometime..have to twist throttle though plug is new..from what I understand, the base cup of the carb is smaller and lower as comapared. IMHO

 

Yeah I get what you mean. It makes more sense when a bike is easier to start when it's hot.

[Burnout69]

hello bros... Juz wanna check, any bros using 160/60/17 on their rear tyre? any diff?

[jianism]

hello bros... Juz wanna check, any bros using 160/60/17 on their rear tyre? any diff?

 

i using Metzeler M3 160/60/17.. Fits nicely..

 

i think it's supposed to be thicker..

[roderick]

hello bros... Juz wanna check, any bros using 160/60/17 on their rear tyre? any diff?

 

Any diff from as compared to what size? 150/70? If u do the math it'll end up not too much of a diff for rpm vs speed. But a lower sidewall shld have better cornering. Do correct me if i am wrong bros.

[Burnout69]

Any diff from as compared to what size? 150/70? If u do the math it'll end up not too much of a diff for rpm vs speed. But a lower sidewall shld have better cornering. Do correct me if i am wrong bros.

 

Yeah, i was comparing with 150/60/17... i guess i get a lower top speed due to the tyre side but better cornering if i decided to use 160 rite? correct me if im wrong? As for VerS i noe the max would be 150...

[icearmour]

tried to start my ver s today morning after 3 weeks of no usage..no spark nothing happens..tried to push down the slope and start and still did not..am i doing something wrong..tried with choke on as well..2nd gear..pls help..thx.

[roderick]

Yeah, i was comparing with 150/60/17... i guess i get a lower top speed due to the tyre side but better cornering if i decided to use 160 rite? correct me if im wrong? As for VerS i noe the max would be 150...

 

Yup. Smmth like that. I've got 160s on my ver s lei. Still running okay

[roderick]

Double post!!

Edited January 14, 2013 by roderick

[roderick]

oops tripled.

Edited January 14, 2013 by roderick

[roderick]

tried to start my ver s today morning after 3 weeks of no usage..no spark nothing happens..tried to push down the slope and start and still did not..am i doing something wrong..tried with choke on as well..2nd gear..pls help..thx.

 

Ignition is 'on' too right? I.e Your meter lights are on when u try pushing? Maybe the batt is really totally flat..

[icearmour]

Ignition is 'on' too right? I.e Your meter lights are on when u try pushing? Maybe the batt is really totally flat..

 

yeah all lights on including head lamp and signal lights...horn sounds like no power...what is the technique??

[the_young_once]

Hi all fellow S4 riders,

 

May I ask is it normal for super 4 (Version S) to "eat oil"? Since yesterday I had the red "OIL" LED on the meter panel light up when starting bike. After started engine it goes off, but otherwise when key is in ON position (and engine not yet started), the light is consistently light up.

 

Following Ah Pek suggestion, I waited to bike cool down (a good 2 hours or so) and level the bike by straddling sitting on it, check the EO dip stick. My steps are this: take out the dip stick, clean with a tissue, dip it back in and screw it in, immediately unscrew it to check oil level. Alarming! The dip stick is bone dry still!

 

So would I be correct to say my EO level is low, unusually or dangerously low, that's why the OIL light comes on?

 

My background: bike is daily commute 70km a day (60% highway). Everyday at least twice will 'play pick up' from traffic light, ram to 8k rpm or so. Pump SPC 95. But last 3 tanks is Petronas 97. Been using Ah Pek's EO for almost 10k km now. No other maintenance done except oil chain every 2.5-3 weeks.

 

There is absolutely no leak from engine block or under the bike (I always take a peek to check every time I ride), so it seems the only possibility is engine 'eat oil'?

 

Anyone on your non VTEC s4 experience the same?

 

Thanks,

KR,

Kenny

[Ah Pek]

yeah all lights on including head lamp and signal lights...horn sounds like no power...what is the technique??

 

Try push starting on 2nd gear (make sure key is "on")..when bike pick up pushing speed..let off clutch till biting point is felt and bike starter kicking in (don't stop pushing at this stage) till it start. If you can't handle this..jump start with someone car or bike battery by connecting red to red and black to black. Asked the other party to start their vechicle and then u start yours. After starting...go foe a long long ride like 20 mins.

[Ah Pek]

Hi all fellow S4 riders,

 

May I ask is it normal for super 4 (Version S) to "eat oil"? Since yesterday I had the red "OIL" LED on the meter panel light up when starting bike. After started engine it goes off, but otherwise when key is in ON position (and engine not yet started), the light is consistently light up.

 

Following Ah Pek suggestion, I waited to bike cool down (a good 2 hours or so) and level the bike by straddling sitting on it, check the EO dip stick. My steps are this: take out the dip stick, clean with a tissue, dip it back in and screw it in, immediately unscrew it to check oil level. Alarming! The dip stick is bone dry still!

 

So would I be correct to say my EO level is low, unusually or dangerously low, that's why the OIL light comes on?

 

My background: bike is daily commute 70km a day (60% highway). Everyday at least twice will 'play pick up' from traffic light, ram to 8k rpm or so. Pump SPC 95. But last 3 tanks is Petronas 97. Been using Ah Pek's EO for almost 10k km now. No other maintenance done except oil chain every 2.5-3 weeks.

 

There is absolutely no leak from engine block or under the bike (I always take a peek to check every time I ride), so it seems the only possibility is engine 'eat oil'?

 

Anyone on your non VTEC s4 experience the same?

 

Thanks,

KR,

Kenny

 

Heh Kenny..not sure ur check is correct though what stated here the procedure is spot on. Do come over this weekend and perhaps tonight and let me check for u. From ur description here..if what u did is right, it is 'eating up oil' and for 10k..that's low compare to most using from 12-25k and my eo don't dry up that easily. It's odd too that when engine starts..or running, the warning oil light is off..it should be "on"..not "Off" if Eo is low. Btw..does ur exhaust produces white smoke? Sms me for meet up

[the_young_once]

Hi fellow riders,

 

First of all, thanks Ah Pek again for your quick reply and managed to take a look at my bike earlier this evening.

 

It was a false alarm and I have made a right fool of myself, panic for nothing. As Ah Pek confirmed, the OIL light will surely be on when the engine is not started yet, it is a self-check of the system to show that the warning light is working (normal). Once press starter, engine running, the light should go off. Which it did, and the light never comes on when engine running, it is all OK. ((If the OIL light remains on while riding, then there is a real problem))

 

I bought this Version S only half year ago, and never rode any proper motorcycle before, so have no experience or expectation. But I remember NEVER seeing this OIL light on before, so what could be the explanation? (note, I am very certain this light never on before)

 

Answer: My meter panel probably not functioning properly before and now it works Add together with my lack of experience and knowledge, leads to undue panic and a false alarm. In my panic to solve this, I topped up my EO about 200ml (quarter bottle) of Castrol 4T semi-syn... Desperate anything also can, just to make up the volume. But the light didn't go away. That's because nothing was wrong in the first place.

 

Something I learned.

 

 

Ride safely everyone!

KR,

Kenny

[icearmour]

Try push starting on 2nd gear (make sure key is "on")..when bike pick up pushing speed..let off clutch till biting point is felt and bike starter kicking in (don't stop pushing at this stage) till it start. If you can't handle this..jump start with someone car or bike battery by connecting red to red and black to black. Asked the other party to start their vechicle and then u start yours. After starting...go foe a long long ride like 20 mins.

 

 

yes i got it jump started finally..then the issue came back again even when it was rode for few times...the shop said battery died and replaced the battery..

 

i had this revtec impedance stabilizer, which keeps blinking all the time..does it take some of the battery??now am thinking, did it actually cause the harm as this is first time i'm having issues after a lay off of 2-3 weeks.

[Ah Pek]

yes i got it jump started finally..then the issue came back again even when it was rode for few times...the shop said battery died and replaced the battery..

 

i had this revtec impedance stabilizer, which keeps blinking all the time..does it take some of the battery??now am thinking, did it actually cause the harm as this is first time i'm having issues after a lay off of 2-3 weeks.

 

I hope the mech is smart enough to check your charging voltage after replacing a new battery...could be the caused of the problem for battery to die again if rectifier, rectifier connector or coil is bad..any of this would make your battery flat due to weak or no charging to the battery.

[returner]

dear all version r n s, i selling version r n s spare part, do drop me a message.... if you need some...example... .version r n s magnitic coil for $300 brand new...( same supplier where FJT got their things)

[Burnout69]

dear all version r n s, i selling version r n s spare part, do drop me a message.... if you need some...example... .version r n s magnitic coil for $300 brand new...( same supplier where FJT got their things)

Does ur prices varies from FJT? or local made?

[depoeks]

Hi all,

 

I have been riding my bike for close to 2 years since i first bought it without sending it for any servicing apart from repairing and replacing parts. I intend to send it to a motordiam to get them to check everything is good and healthy and i'm hoping someone can intro me to a good reliable shop and maybe tell me about how much i would expect to pay. I would also like to know what to look out for that needs to be checked/changed.

[bobsalino]

Any tyres to recomend for ver s? and which shop?thanxs.

[Ah Pek]

Any tyres to recomend for ver s? and which shop?thanxs.

 

Use back the recommended stock original..Dunlope GT105 Arrow Max..front 110..back 140..cost about $220-$230 for a set. Most mototiam has.

[Ah Pek]

Hi all,

 

I have been riding my bike for close to 2 years since i first bought it without sending it for any servicing apart from repairing and replacing parts. I intend to send it to a motordiam to get them to check everything is good and healthy and i'm hoping someone can intro me to a good reliable shop and maybe tell me about how much i would expect to pay. I would also like to know what to look out for that needs to be checked/changed.

 

There are many advertiser her in the forum like Unique and planet motor etc..as long as a shop with experience with S4..better still..the mech rides one. Price various due to overhead etc..but do one wise thing..do comparison and quality of mech..avoid China mechanic and last but not least..talk to otehr S4 user and share their experience.

[returner]

Does ur prices varies from FJT? or local made?

 

 

my prices at least 20 percent cheaper than FJT.china made.