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Posted
But none at the same place n at the same time ya. .

 

Sigh. . .

 

Sent from my GT-P1000

 

Saw ur ride at lta on last sat thou.

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

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Posted (edited)
World Misanthrophy,

You may be right abt the voltmeter thing, it is only good as a guide on the strength of ur battery. Thru my observation, if the battery is fresh, new and in good condition, u just need to depress the starter for a brief few seconds and you can already feel the engine starting but as time go by, let's say after a year or a year and a half normally, you start to realise dat it takes longer to initiate the starter biting to start. Especially so if you don't ride ur bike often and the charging is slacking, hence dats why it's sometimes good to accompany our good friend, NewOldGuy for a short burst to Ayer Keroh and back to clear carbon, charge ur battery and have a far distance brunch as well.*

Then you keep on using the battery until the day comes when you depress the starter and you get dat "almost cannot start" kind of difficult start-up sound. You will know what I mean when the time comes. If you are lucky enough it will still last you another week or so but if not then be prepared to arrange for a $25 to $30 towing charge to ur favorite bike shop.

So if you are wise and ur pocket willing, it shld alrdy be high time to get it replaced by the time when you can sense the abnormal starting difficulty, no such thing as meter spinning around but the clock probably wld reset it's time when the battery is getting weak.

I happened to be making a search on a similar situation because recently I had some problems starting up my bike, then I noticed that greysnail, a Blackbird fellow biker, recommended a bike shop selling helmets behind Global Motors at Ubi in one of his earlier posts which happens to be near his working place selling Blackbird batteries cheap.

Upon checking it out I then realised that the shop there was previously known as the 'auntie shop' located a few doors from Ah Boy's LAB Shop at Kelantan Lane formally selling bike stickers and other bike accessories which has since moved to their present location in Blk 51, Paya Ubi Ind Park, reason quoted when asked was because here in Ubi they can do repair works too but they have yet to get their mechanic.

 

Now for the battery part. Since my bike is an old gen 1 Haya using a recommended Yuasa YT12A-BS with dimension 150 x 88 x 105 mm. Blackbirds are using YT12B-BS with a dimension of 150 x 69 x 130 mm. If you google it out you will find that der are 3rd party batteries which fits the specs requirements of the Blackbird or Haya batteries but gives higher cranking power ranging from 175 CCA to 250 CCA costing between US$69.95 to US$85.95 excluding shipping.

One of the brands from http://www.ebatteriestogo.com listed Power Source WPZ12S Sealed AGM with 12 Volts - 250 CCA - 11 AH at US$85.95 without shipping costs yet. Unfortunately they do not export to S'pore but I think there is a way to solve that part by getting our vPOST to help make the delivery.

Btw just an explanatory note for CCA:

What does CCA mean?

Cold Cranking Amps is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. You can google for more info on this too.

 

What I am trying to say is, from what I gather from my regular bike shop, if you want to get batteries urgently locally you can get one originating from Taiwan, looks similar to the one from China except that the securing nuts that they provide are smaller than those from China. Packaging are all the same but price wise maybe around $70 - $80 only, Bro Greysnail got it dat time for $60 only. The one from China maybe another $20 difference. The best one you can get is the one labelled on the outside in red Made in Japan and it can most probably last up to 3 years while the cheaper ones fr China maybe can tahan a year plus if you are lucky, you can get it prob from Tat Beng & Co Battery Service, telephone 6298 1110 for around $145 last on early Oct 2010 or maybe can also ask at KS Cycle at Jalan Besar right side just before the Sungei Road junction if you coming from the PIE down.

 

In a nutshell the YTZ12S is the better choice and I believe it is the one made in Japan too whereas the other one T12BS is the standard recommended spec which could possibly come from China or Taiwan.

I feel that the info is impt and relevant and just wanted to share what I found. Happy Riding and Ride Safe. :-))

 

 

Wow lots of good knowledge,thanks for sharing.I just learnt something new today.

VoltMeter is a good guideline for me,tested and proven provided in good condition and installed correct;y

If you crank your busa and it doesnt start,do not keep on cranking it.Some parts may be damage due to that.

Cranking/starting the busa draws the most voltage/current.If you have difficulty,its time for send for routine technical check up.

Dont ride that often or unable to ride the required distance and speed will cause the lifespan of the battery to shorten.

Most batteries will have a discharge rate,its depends on what brand and make.

Yuasa YTZ -14 is a plug and play,better cranking and etc.Pricey too lol.

Battery tenders/chargers are cheap,depend on your usage of the bike.

Charge it up to have a healthier and longer lifespan for the battery.

 

Something to share tested and proven,kind of latest technology>http://www.shoraipower.com/default.aspx

No more dead batteries. Holds charge for one year without maintenance

Twice the service life of lead-acid batteries on average

Drop-in replacement for your OEM battery

Military spec Carbon Composite Case

Faster cranking for better starts

Ultra light. One fifth the weight of lead-acid batteries on average

Super-fast recharge rate

SAFE - No explosive gasses during charge, no lead, no acid

Environmentally friendly

Japanese engineering and components

Two years warranty

Edited by MERCENARY
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted

Thks for the tips Mercenary, Kinwei and Quizesilver, i never expected dat many contributions from the other more experienced riders, great sharing of infos. :-))

'79 CB350 Twin, '83 WR200, '84-'94 PX150-PX200, '95-'96 NV750, '96 FZR1000, '96-'97 Shadow 400, '98 ST1100, '98-'04 Intruder 800, '04-'10 Steed 400, Sept 2010-'06 Silver Wing, Sept '08, '03 Hayabusa Gen1, Oct 2012-'12 Versys 1K (Currently riding).

 

Happy Riding and Be Alert and Safe Always.:cheers:

Posted
Wow lots of good knowledge,thanks for sharing.I just learnt something new today.

VoltMeter is a good guideline for me,tested and proven provided in good condition and installed correct;y

If you crank your busa and it doesnt start,do not keep on cranking it.Some parts may be damage due to that.

Cranking/starting the busa draws the most voltage/current.If you have difficulty,its time for send for routine technical check up.

Dont ride that often or unable to ride the required distance and speed will cause the lifespan of the battery to shorten.

Most batteries will have a discharge rate,its depends on what brand and make.

Yuasa YTZ -14 is a plug and play,better cranking and etc.Pricey too lol.

Battery tenders/chargers are cheap,depend on your usage of the bike.

Charge it up to have a healthier and longer lifespan for the battery.

 

Something to share tested and proven,kind of latest technology>http://www.shoraipower.com/default.aspx

No more dead batteries. Holds charge for one year without maintenance

Twice the service life of lead-acid batteries on average

Drop-in replacement for your OEM battery

Military spec Carbon Composite Case

Faster cranking for better starts

Ultra light. One fifth the weight of lead-acid batteries on average

Super-fast recharge rate

SAFE - No explosive gasses during charge, no lead, no acid

Environmentally friendly

Japanese engineering and components

Two years warranty

Are you using these bro...?? Understand that you using the 24v starting setup right?? Saw u flick the switch before.... at 2nd link checkpoint I guess...

 

Can it be bought locally???

http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/sbfsign_zpsfc1ff2d1.gif

If you look closely , you might see my bike in this picture

Posted (edited)
Bro where do you do to buff your fairings? Might wanna do also bro. And also, engine case slider where u buy?

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 3GSâ„¢

 

I didn't buff my fairing, it my mirror. For fairing, if the scratches on the paint is too deep, no way you can polish it away. I bought the engine case slider from Bikeworkz.

Edited by kinwei
Posted
Haha u shld get motty afr tuner...more thing to play.

 

Ecu hack work better on dyno.

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

Actually I never thought of tuning my bike. Plus motty need to splice wire right? I don't like to splice original wire. Anyway it will be sitting in my storeroom for yrs to come. Hahaha.

Posted
Actually I never thought of tuning my bike. Plus motty need to splice wire right? I don't like to splice original wire. Anyway it will be sitting in my storeroom for yrs to come. Hahaha.

 

They have the wire harness now.

 

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Posted

Wow so many infos man. Didnt knew that there are 24v cranking also. Maybe a meet up will clear my doubts?

 

Anw, i just did a headlight on/off switch, low beam HID and a blue T10 bulbs on the side. Looks nice now. Hehee

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 3GSâ„¢

"Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory"...

Posted

How to do the 24v system n what r the things needed. Does both batt get charge together?

Err what u want to know?

I am not teacher...

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Sent from my GT-P1000

Past to present rides

 

Honda nsr sp 150 pro arm

Honda super4 ver s - yamaha rxz 135

Honda cbr 600 rr

Suzuki hayabusa 1300 - yamaha cygnus 125 - yamaha lc135 spark

Aprilia sr max 300 I.e

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/10/22/bikepics-2608839-full.jpg

Posted

Then what type of batt mod is better.

 

Yes my bike has minor mods but lots of ledzzzzzzzz . . . . . So a upgrade would be better then stock.

 

Sent from my GT-P1000

Past to present rides

 

Honda nsr sp 150 pro arm

Honda super4 ver s - yamaha rxz 135

Honda cbr 600 rr

Suzuki hayabusa 1300 - yamaha cygnus 125 - yamaha lc135 spark

Aprilia sr max 300 I.e

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/10/22/bikepics-2608839-full.jpg

Posted
Then what type of batt mod is better.

 

Yes my bike has minor mods but lots of ledzzzzzzzz . . . . . So a upgrade would be better then stock.

 

Turn on your LED's only when the bike is running...shouldn't be and issue

http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/sbfsign_zpsfc1ff2d1.gif

If you look closely , you might see my bike in this picture

Posted
Maybe a meet up will clear my doubts?

 

Do organise ... it's been quite a while.....

http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/sbfsign_zpsfc1ff2d1.gif

If you look closely , you might see my bike in this picture

Posted
Then what type of batt mod is better.

 

Yes my bike has minor mods but lots of ledzzzzzzzz . . . . . So a upgrade would be better then stock.

 

Sent from my GT-P1000

 

24V system is only used for cranking start the bike. After which, will use back 12V supply to run the bike system. For your case, you won't reap the benefit of a 24V system at all. Just do what Manbusa suggest, only on the LED after crank start the engine. After the engine start, the coil will take over in providing the overall power for the bike.

 

Or just get Size 14 battery. Higher capacity and CCA. But will also means it takes a slightly longer time to charge it up fully. Otherwise upgrading to a higher power (wattage) coil is what you really need.

Posted

welcome to page 1040 ......

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/camounation/saLem77.jpg

MY RIDES

RXZ135 botoL powered / WR200 FMF powered - RXZ D CLUB

SUPER4 VTEC2 Micron powered - S4M

R1 '07 LE Akrapovic powered

HAYABUSA '99 Scorpion powered - SgBusaRiderz

SUPER4 PB1 / 125z Rockstar

RXZ135 Japan-modeL 6-speed lemang powered

 

carousell.com/shasalem.biz :D

Posted
You most probably don't need a 24V system if your bike is stock or minor mod.

 

Yup. If minor dun need 24v

 

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Posted
Do organise ... it's been quite a while.....

 

If all dun mind a non busa rider. I hope to come by.

 

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Posted
24V system is only used for cranking start the bike. After which, will use back 12V supply to run the bike system. For your case, you won't reap the benefit of a 24V system at all. Just do what Manbusa suggest, only on the LED after crank start the engine. After the engine start, the coil will take over in providing the overall power for the bike.

 

Or just get Size 14 battery. Higher capacity and CCA. But will also means it takes a slightly longer time to charge it up fully. Otherwise upgrading to a higher power (wattage) coil is what you really need.

 

Right on.

 

Stx battery will do most ppl need

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

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Posted
If all dun mind a non busa rider. I hope to come by.

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

me tooo...non-busa rider currently :(

 

Right on.

 

Stx battery will do most ppl need

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

direct fit bro....???

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/camounation/saLem77.jpg

MY RIDES

RXZ135 botoL powered / WR200 FMF powered - RXZ D CLUB

SUPER4 VTEC2 Micron powered - S4M

R1 '07 LE Akrapovic powered

HAYABUSA '99 Scorpion powered - SgBusaRiderz

SUPER4 PB1 / 125z Rockstar

RXZ135 Japan-modeL 6-speed lemang powered

 

carousell.com/shasalem.biz :D

Posted

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/camounation/saLem77.jpg

MY RIDES

RXZ135 botoL powered / WR200 FMF powered - RXZ D CLUB

SUPER4 VTEC2 Micron powered - S4M

R1 '07 LE Akrapovic powered

HAYABUSA '99 Scorpion powered - SgBusaRiderz

SUPER4 PB1 / 125z Rockstar

RXZ135 Japan-modeL 6-speed lemang powered

 

carousell.com/shasalem.biz :D

Posted
Then what type of batt mod is better.

 

Yes my bike has minor mods but lots of ledzzzzzzzz . . . . . So a upgrade would be better then stock.

 

Sent from my GT-P1000

 

bro....nie baru kena use 3 batteries .....

 

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/camounation/saLem77.jpg

MY RIDES

RXZ135 botoL powered / WR200 FMF powered - RXZ D CLUB

SUPER4 VTEC2 Micron powered - S4M

R1 '07 LE Akrapovic powered

HAYABUSA '99 Scorpion powered - SgBusaRiderz

SUPER4 PB1 / 125z Rockstar

RXZ135 Japan-modeL 6-speed lemang powered

 

carousell.com/shasalem.biz :D

Posted
Are you using these bro...?? Understand that you using the 24v starting setup right?? Saw u flick the switch before.... at 2nd link checkpoint I guess...

 

Can it be bought locally???

 

I am considering it as an option for me,as i believe there are no local dealer here for that brand of battery.Shipping would be costly.

We can do a pmo to share shipping costs in the future.

There are alot of great stuffs that i have found,but sad to say cant find it locally.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted
Thks for the tips Mercenary, Kinwei and Quizesilver, i never expected dat many contributions from the other more experienced riders, great sharing of infos. :-))

 

You are most welcome.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg

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