<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

* Special thanks ALL CONTRIBUTORS, including 2_wheeler, recko, CCK, momo, patriots, 867k, spin37 and especially loleks who is the initiator of this very useful thread.

* All info in this thread are contributed by volunteers sharing their personal info & knowledge, and collated published info from the various websites. We do not, at any time, claim that those are our works.

* Readers shall exercise their own discretion when using information/recommendations from here, contributors to this thread shall not be responsibility for any resulting consequences.

* There will exist some errors and/or superseded/obsolete information here-n-there due to typo, inaccurate information from Internet "findings", changes over time, etc. Resders are advised that information in this thread are only for reference. Accurate and updated information are best obtained from the respective owners and service manuals, parts manufacturers catalogs/quotes, etc.

Edited August 11, 2016 by scoobydoo

greenday · May 25, 2008

Me upz it too~ I suggest to Sticky it~

Refreshing this thread ~ I also suggest to Sticky this

scoobydoo · May 26, 2008

added some info... updated Performance Motors & Motovation

Honda Agent: Boon Siew Singapore Pte Ltd

Tel: 62105081 (parts), 62105099 (service)

75 Bukit Timah Road, #01-01, Boon Siew Building, Singapore 229833

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:75%20Bukit%20Timah%20Road

workmanship: $100 onwards

belt: $179($135)

rollers: $42($32)

sliders(u-clips): $20($15)

eo filter: $26($20)

air filter: $57($43)

battery: $210 (no discount)

"silver wing" chrome insignia 1 pair: $89 (via order)

windshield: $500

* bike from BS can get 25% or 15% discounts on items purchase from their parts centre

Parts dealer: FJT Parts & Accessories Pte Ltd

Tel: 63925928, 63925927

15 Rowell Road, Singapore 207973

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:15%20Rowell%20Road

(only sell spares, find you own mechanic)

belt: $115

rollers: $40

sliders(u-clips): $14

eo filter: $15

air filter: $45

magnetic coil (magneto): $260

yuasa battery: YTZ12S $145, YTZ14S $155

yuasa battery with honda logo: >$200+ (didn't ask for exact figure)

"silver wing" chrome insignia 1 pair: abt $80 (via order)

rear shocks: $210 each

Parts dealer: Ever Success Auto Parts Pte Ltd

Tel: 62925909

17 Lembu Rd, Singapore 208450

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:17%20Lembu%20Rd

(only sell spares, find you own mechanic)

belt: $135

rollers: $40

sliders(u-clips): $14

eo filter: $8 (oem)

air filter: $42

Parts dealer: Everfit Motor Pte Ltd

Tel: 6293 8925

96 Desker Road, Singapore 209618http://gothere.sg/maps#q:96%20Desker%20Road

(only sell spares, find you own mechanic)

sliders: $9+

clutch pegs: $65+

Regular/Recommended workshops for servicing:

A.C. Motor

Tel: 90220203 (look for Ah Choong)

10 Kaki Bukit Rd 2 #01-22 (formerly #03-02 then #03-25) First East Centre, S417868

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:10%20Kaki%20Bukit%20Road%202

ps: this is a regular shop many of us (including me) go to, good service at reasonable prices. suggest you call to check service availability (minimise waiting time).

K & T Accessory Trading Pte Ltd

Tel: 67455463 (look for Clifford)

3006 Ubi Rd 1 #01-372, Singapore 408700

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:3006%20Ubi%20Rd%201

ps: this is a regular shop many of us (including me) go to, good service at reasonable prices. suggest you call to check service availability (minimise waiting time).

Other workshops:

Unique Motorsports Pte Ltd

Main Tel: 68446378 (look for ALEC)

1 Kaki Bukit Ave 6 #02-54 Autobay @ Kaki Bukit Singapore 417883

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:417883

Branch Tel: 6515 4978 (look for ALEX)

38 Toh Guan Rd East #01-57 Enterprise Hub Singapore 608581

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:38%20Toh%20Guan%20Rd%20East

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/225675-SBF-Silverwings-Cafe-2009-2010-JDM-Euro-400-600?p=6945212&viewfull=1#post6945212

Sports Motor

Tel: 6684 0172 (look for Omar)

1 Bukit Batok Crescent #02-58 WCEGA Plaza Singapore 658064

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:wcega%20plaza

https://www.facebook.com/Sports-Motor-Trading-Pte-Ltd-1643392952570447/

Liqui Moly motorbike engine flush $14, full syn EO 10w50 $23 per bott (10w40 is semi syn), K&N oil filter $20, stock oil filter $18, Liqui Moly 75w90 gear oil $18, etc.

Note: this shop promotes Liqui Moly products in general but also carry other brands at reasonable prices (also got discounts). imo, LM eo is very smooth but may not be very suitable for older bikes where the "thicker" eo helps keep the engine quieter.

Hodaka Motoworld Pte Ltd

Tel: 68440792, 68440079 (look for Muji)

KB Industrial Building, 10 Kaki Bukit Rd 1, #01-08 Singapore 416175

Boutique Showroom (City Branch) Tel: 63361126

http://www.motoworld.com.sg/locate.php#

note: distributor of pirilli bike tyres

Future Scootering

Tel: 63922393 (look for Kenny)

50 Bukit Batok Street 23 #02-26 @ MidView Building Singapore 659578

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:midview%20building

ps: IMO, prices have gone up quite a bit, too much for my preference

Wonderful Motor

Tel: 96936520 - look for "Botak" (boss)

494 Macpherson Rd, Singapore 368200

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:494%20Macpherson%20Rd

ps: I haven't gone there since 2008, can't comment on prices and services there.

Sporting Motors Pte Ltd

1 Kaki Bukit Ave 6 #02-60 Autobay @ Kaki Bukit Singapore 417883

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:417883

Tel: 6396 0230

Parts/Accessories Suppliers:

Lim Ah Boy Pte Ltd (aka LAB)

Tel: 62967914, 62968035

23 Kelantan Lane #01-03 Kim Hoe Centre S(208642)

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:23%20Kelantan%20Lane%20Kim%20Hoe%20Centre

- sells almost everything you need for a bike, except the bike, towing too

- Givi E450 Simply (matt black) + plastic base plate $100

- Givi E450 Simply (matt black) + brake lights + plastic base plate $110

- Givi E52 Maxia case only $280

- Givi aluminium base plate for Maxia $50

- throttle rocker $4

Cyclenet Pte Ltd

~ Givi authorised distributor in Singapore

1179 Serangoon Road, Singapore 328232

Tel: 62956393, 62950748

Email: elyngoh10@yahoo .com.sg

company is together with Mah Pte Ltd (not Mah Motor)

Tat Beng & Co Battery Service

Tel: 62981110

121 Lavender Street S338732

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:121%20Lavender%20Street

Yuasa YTZ-14S $145 (cash), +7% GST if with invoice

~ as at 28/03/2011

Wing Yap Motor Pte Ltd

Tel: 64513338 (look for Jackson)

Blk 4003 #01-114 AMK Ave 10

Singapore 569624

http://www.wingyap.com.sg/

Skyrich Lithium Battery - Singapore distributor

Eugene Saddlery

203A Jalan Besar Singapore 208889

Tel: 62933613, 94307471 (look for Eugene)

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eugene-Saddlery/164522110267438

http://eugenesaddlery.weebly.com/

Performance Motors (Bukit Timah)

Sime Darby Centre, 896 Dunearn Road Singapore 589472

(go to level 2)

Tel: 6319 0208

~ BMW motorcycle grip $23.10

Motorvation Accessory

53 Ubi Ave 1 Paya Ubi Industrial Park #03-29 Singapore 408934

Tel: 67471477, Fax: 67471477

Monday-Friday 1030hrs-1630hrs, Saturday 1030hrs-1400hrs

http://www.motovation-accessory.com.sg/index.php?act=contact

~ Stainless Steel Barend Sliders (for Suzuki), Model: #SSS02 $70.00

Looking for Stock & OEM parts online?

Check these out... note that many parts from FSC600 (US sites) are also usable.

WeBike.net ... Shop in Japan

http://japan.webike.net/HONDA/SW-T400+%28SILVER+WING400%2CFJS600%29/228/mtop/

Wemoto.com ... Shop in UK

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/fjs_400_d6_d7_d8_silverwing/06-08/

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/fjs_400_silverwing_a9_d9/09/

Racing Planet UK ... Shop in UK

http://www.racing-planet.co.uk/silver-wing-fjs-400-nf01-06-08-c-3874_27489-1.html

http://www.racing-planet.co.uk/silver-wing-fjs-400-nf03-09-c-3874_27523-1.html

BikeParts Honda ... Shop in France

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-moto-model-SILVER-WING-400-2009.html

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-moto-model-SILVER-WING-400-2010.html

OEM Motorparts.com ... Shop in The Netherlands (aka Hollan)

https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem4.asp?M=Honda&T=FJS400D&Y=2008&L=HO-FJS400D8

Service Honda ... Shop in US

http://www.servicehonda.com/parts.html

JC Whitney ... Shop in US

http://www.jcwhitney.com/motorcycle/for-your-motorcycle/honda-motorcycle-fsc600-silver-wing-2009/c126d60196y2009j3s24.jcwx?filterid=d60196y2009

Twisted Throttle ... Shop in US

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/honda/silverwing-600

Scooter West ... Shop in US

http://www.scooterwest.com/pv_items/Honda-Silver-Wing-600/global/137

For used spare parts, may also consider scrapyards, e.g.

Ah Ann Trading

76 Sungei Kadut St 1 (near J5 Block)

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:76%20Sungei%20Kadut%20St%201

... updated as at Dec 2013

Recommended to ask if they have what you want before going down

Ah Ann HP 96256549

Need Headlights Halogen Bulbs? SW uses H7

Personally, I'ld recommend the Philips Xtreme Vision (or Power) over the Osrams or Ring which I have used, other than those much cheaper Korean or few dollars "standard" halogen bulbs.

Why not the very popular Diamond Vision? Cos its colour temperated is rated at 5000K, not LTA friendly.

anodise57

Premium Products - HELLA, Philips & Osram

SMS or Whatsapp: 98898161

MXTradings

Frontier 50 Ubi Ave 3, #05-13 Singapore 408866

Tue~Fri: 1pm to 8pm

Weekends: 10.30am~2pm

Closed on Mondays & Public Holidays

HP: 90262657 (Nicholas)

http://www.mxtradings.com/Osram%20Philips.htm

H7 Philips Xtreme Vision costs S$63 a pair.

Autolamps-Online.com

http://www.autolamps-online.com/categories/Car-Headlamps/More-Light/100%25-X%252dtreme-Vision/

H7 Philips Xtreme Vision costs US$38.22 (excl. VAT) a pair.

... convert at 1.265 ... around S$48.35 a pair

PowerBulbs.com

http://www.powerbulbs.com/

for comparison purpose, H7 Philips Xtreme Vision costs US$42.85 a pair.

... convert at 1.265 ... around S$54.21

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

notes:

~ prices may vary according to your bargaining skills, friendship power, any promotion or package deals, etc.

~ unless otherwise stated, prices are historical prices only for reference as a guide, i.e. not current quotes.

~ prices may vary according to market conditions and foreign exchange fluctuations (e.g. more expensive when japanese yen appreciates)

~ workmanship charges WILL differ at different motorshops/mechanics thus not included here

~ workmanship charges of $100 at BS is for only changing the belt, roller & u-clips job, WILL increase when other jobs are also done

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Edited April 6, 2016 by scoobydoo

paithorn · June 7, 2008

just to clarify,
I believe BOON SIEW only had JDM SW600, not JDM SW400.
Their (Boon Siew) SW400 shd be all EURO version, becos they only bring in this year after April I believe.
So, all SW400 (in Sg) after april this year shd be Euro version.

I went to Boon Siew. The sales guy said that Boon Siew does not bring in 600s and they are all PI.

Likewise all JDM 400s are PI.

paithorn · June 7, 2008

Authorized Bike Dealers

A. S. Phoon Pte Ltd

399 Changi Road, Singapore 419846

Tel: 6747 0770 Fax: 6841 1263

Ban Hon Brothers Pte Ltd

Blk 5022 Ang Mo Kio Industrail Park 2, #01-19, Singapore 569525

Tel: 6481 7277 Fax: 6482 4077

Bike Production Pte Ltd

610 Serangoon Road, Singapore 218216

Tel: 6392 2555 Fax: 6299 5537

Guan Hoe Cheong Trading Co.

1108/ 1110 Serangoon Road, Singapore 328200

Tel: 6292 3737 Fax: 6292 7252

HH Motor Co. Pte Ltd

Blk 1006 Bukit Merah Lane 2, #01-02, Singapore 159762

Tel: 6270 9810 Fax: 6272 4225

Heng Motor Enterprise

471 Changi Road 5 1/2 M.S. Singapore 419889

Tel: 6747 8788 Fax: 6747 2411

L H Motor Pte Ltd

873/875 Upper Bukit Timah Road, Singapore 678176

Tel: 6769 1717 Fax: 6760 0626

Looi's Motor

55 Kaki Bukit Place, Singapore 416230

Tel: 6743 1072 Fax: 6742 2204

Mah Motor Agencies

361 Jalan Besar, Singapore 208993

Tel: 6294 7648 Fax:6298 2065

Mah Pte Ltd

1179 Serangoon Road, Singapore 328232

Tel: 6295 6393 Fax:6295 0748

Meng Motor Co.

211 Jalan Besar, Singapore 208896

Tel: 6297 6623 Fax: 6293 6637

Yew Heng Credit (Albert Motor)

Blk 1008 Bukit Merah Lane 3, #01-10 Singapore 159722

Tel: 6273 7188 Fax: 273 7790

scoobydoo · June 23, 2008

Have you ever wondered where the current required to power our bikes' electric system comes from, apart from the battery?

Electrical supply comes from a combination of parts, each performing a different role of the "supply chain"

* 12V DC Battery

* Alternator (produces AC)

* Rectifiers (converts AC into DC)

* Filters smooth out the DC

Alternator (sometimes called Magnetic Coil)

Note: magnetic coil for SWT is slightly different (more expensive too) than that used for FJS/JDM model.

Alternators are used to charge the battery and to power the electric system of a car/motorcycle when the engine is running. An alternator is an electromechanical device that converts mechanical energy to alternating current (AC) electrical energy. Most alternators use a rotating magnetic field but linear alternators are occasionally used. In principle, any AC electrical generator can be called an alternator, but usually the word refers to small rotating machines driven by automotive and other internal combustion engines.

http://www.xjmotorcycle.com/images/motorcycle-magnetic-motor-coil-mn05-012-b.jpg http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/1493/picture1wd3.th.jpg

SW's magnetic coil is located in the crank case just behind the right side engine cover.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Crankcase/01d610ab.jpg

There are two main types of alternator that are fitted to most bikes, each requiring a different type of regulator rectifier.

1) Permanent Magnet Rotor alternator (PMR):

This has permanent magnets that revolve with the engine (rotor), either inside or around a set of wound coils (stator) to produce power. These come in various shapes and sizes. Some have two output wires (single phase), but most have three (three phase).

2) Field Control Type (FCT):

This has a 'field' or 'exciter' coil that is in place of the fixed magnets. When supplied with power from the regulator this becomes magnetised. Some types have this coil spinning inside the output 'phase' coils to give power, and will have carbon brush connections. Others have a stationary field coil, stationary phase coils and have a metal rotor spinning between the two, and need no brushes. The amount of power supplied to the field coil from the regulator decides how much output the alternator will give.

Rectifiers

The electric system of a car/motorcycle uses direct current (DC) instead of AC current. Thus, the AC output from the alternator has to be converted into a DC current before being supplied to the battery and electrical system. Rectifiers (or diode bridge) are used to convert AC to DC. A rectifier is an electrical device that converts alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC), a process known as rectification.

In half wave rectification, either the positive or negative half of the AC wave is passed, while the other half is blocked. Because only one half of the input waveform reaches the output, it is very inefficient if used for power transfer. A full-wave rectifier converts the whole of the input waveform to one of constant polarity (positive or negative) at its output. Full-wave rectification converts both polarities of the input waveform to DC (direct current), and is more efficient.

Filters

While half-wave and full-wave rectification suffice to deliver a form of DC output, neither produces constant-voltage DC. In order to produce steady DC from a rectified AC supply, a smoothing circuit or filter is required. Basically, it is a reservoir capacitor, filter/smoothing capacitor, placed at the DC output of the rectifier. There will still remain an amount of AC ripple voltage where the voltage is not completely smoothed.

Voltage Regulators

If the DC load is very demanding of a smooth supply voltage, a voltage regulator will be used in addition to the capacitor-input filter, both to remove the last of the ripple and to deal with variations in supply and load characteristics.

Some aftermarket products that perform such function are voltage stabilisers, power abuser, etc., all of which uses capacitors to store charge in order to smoothen the DC supply to the electrical system.

How to test the Regulator Rectifier?

Check the battery voltage, with the engine not running. Start the bike (increase the rpm's up a little), the voltage should now be a couple of volts more than the original battery voltage. Check both voltages (running and not running) at battery terminals.

What can go wrong with it
If yours does fail. Before going to the time and bother and expense of replacing one, it is prudent to consider that there are usually contributory factors to a failure. You should conduct a thorough inspection of all other parts of the electrical system and verify that all components are in good working order and that the regulator was correctly mounted to allow dissipation of heat produced. You could also perform some basic postmortem checks on the regulator/rectifier itself, and attempt to determine what has failed, internally if you have the necessary test equipment.

Total failure
Total failure does not usually mean that every part inside the unit died at the same time. All of the parts share a common ground or hot connection; if the unit tests out totally dead, then this internal connection could have failed. This is typically due to either a manufacturing defect, overheating or metal fatigue from too many heating and cooling cycles. A failed connection can cause any of the observed failure modes, so keep that in mind: just because the device doesn't test out totally dead, doesn't mean that it wasn't defective or simply overheated one too many times.

Failed diodes
If this happens, your battery will stop being charged, the lights become progressively more dim, and eventually the engine will stop. First look for a short or bad connection to the alternator stator coils. A bad connection can cause some serious voltage spikes, which can destroy diodes. Check also for a bad battery connection and any oxide build up on the terminals and connectors. A shorted battery or reversed terminals could cause the diodes to draw too much current and burn out. These symptoms could also point to stator failure so check the coil resistances and or output voltage if your meter has an AC range, to eliminate this.

Failed Shunt Regulator
If this happens, your headlight may become very bright and then blow. Your battery may have boiled dry also.

If the regulator burned out, check your battery connections, if they are loose or corroded the regulator has nowhere to route the output and so must get rid of the power produced in the form of heat. Also, make sure that all of your running lights are working; remember, the regulator sinks excess power, and generates a lot of heat in the process. If all of the lights aren't working, that's more heat for the regulator to get rid of.

Relevant Readings:

11 * Battery & Fuses (Part 1)

12 * Battery & Fuses (Part 2)

acknowledgement:

information extracted from various internet sites, too many to remember

Edited July 19, 2012 by scoobydoo
additional information

paithorn · October 19, 2008

I was researching some difference btn SW400 and 600 and realised their FC defers quite a lot?

bigcow · October 19, 2008

I was researching some difference btn SW400 and 600 and realised their FC defers quite a lot?

its actually damn a lot

scoobydoo · October 21, 2008

Batteries for Honda Silver Wing (FJS/JDM 400, SWT/GT 400 & FSC600 uses same model)

* 12V DC

* Part Nos.: YTZ9, YTZ12, YTZ12-S, etc

* Standard = Maintenance free type; usually using gel or factory sealed cos SW's batt is fitted sideways, lying down inside left rear panel access through under-seat storage compartment

* Sizes vary a little with different manufacturers and performance rating: but generally around

___ L150mm x W87mm x H110mm

___ L6" x W3.4375 x H4.375"

* Charging: approx. 14V, 1.1A

* Capacity: 9~12 Ah

* Althernative = Lithium type

E.g. MO lithium battery, Skyrich lithium battery, Ballistic lithium battery, etc.

Super Light Weight Lithium Batteries for Bikes

Cell count - size - weight - price
4 cell 2.3Ah - 55x70x55mm - 330gm - $90 (not usually on hand)
8 cell 4.6Ah - 105x70x55mm - 650gm - $180
12 cell 6.9Ah - 105x70x83mm - 950gm - $240

SW uses either 8 or 12 cells

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=230339&d=1325301272

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=230673&d=1325547820

Skyrich lithium battery

read this for more info (my review on Skyrich)

* Lithium Ion Battery Review

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Skyrich2_zps56af61a9.jpg

Ballistic Lithium battery

http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/images-battery/100-012-12cell_0026.jpg

About Maintenance Free Batteries

Note: can also use YTZ14-S since physical dimension is the same

Comparisons:

. . . . . . . YTZ12-S . YTZ14-S

Voltage . . 12V . . . . 12V

Capacity .. 11.0 . . .. 11.2

Weight . .. 3.7kg . .. 3.9kg

Amps . . .. 1.1 . . . .. 1.1

CCA . . . .. 210 . . . . 230

Yuasa Batteries - Technical Manual

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf

http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/datasheets/yuasa/NP-technical.pdf

Need to change your battery?

no need to buy the original "honda" battery... i was quoted >$220+ in mid 2008, dunno inflated to how much now. but hey! it is no different from the Yuasa YTZ12S which costs only Â½ of that, only difference is the Yuasa-Honda case. you pay double for the "chicken wing" logo.

personally, i have used all 3 types; YTX12A-BS, YTZ14S and the "honda" YTZ12S that came with bike.
my recommendation is to pay $10+ more and get the bigger capacity YTZ14S (used in bigger Honda bikes like STX). yes, it fits nicely as both 12S & 14S has the same physical dimensions. many of us have been using that for years.
i wouldn't recommend the much cheaper (

best price we know is from KS Motor Co... $130 for a YTZ14S
see Tech post #5 for address & contact

Ampere-hours (AÂ·h) is the product of the time that a battery can deliver a certain amount of current (in hours) times that current (in amps), for a particular discharge period. This is one indication of the total amount of charge a battery is able to store and deliver at its rated voltage. This rating is rarely stated for automotive batteries.

* Cold Cranking Amperes: 75~115A

Cranking amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid battery at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery). In other words, CA/cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car in most climates. The basic job of a battery is to start an engine; it must crank, or rotate the crankshaft while at the same time maintain sufficient voltage to activate the ignition system until the engine fires and maintains rotation. This requirement involves a high discharge rate in amperes for a short period of time. Since it is more difficult for a battery to deliver power when it is cold, and since the engine requires more power to turn over when it is cold, the Cold Cranking rating is defined as: The number of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). In other words, CCA/cold cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car on cold winter mornings.

maintenance free batts that can fit SilverWing (sealed & factory activated)...

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Yuasa_Horizontal.jpg?t=1246847792

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Yuasa_Vertical.jpg?t=1246845450

additional readings at Silverwing Forum (silvering.org):

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=3026

for those who doesn't have or have lost the owner's manual, attached is the extracts from the manual; page 112 - 117 showing:

* gaining access to battery

battery is located inside the left side panel (see page 12 & 113 of manual), accessible via under-seat storage... lift the seat, you will see a plastic cover with 2 screws on the left side, battery is inside there.

(note that battery is the sealed maintenance-free type, i.e. no need to check for electrolyte level or add distilled water)

The Battery

The SW uses a maintenance free accumulator battery which is physically similar to those used in cars, except that it is smaller and uses specially formulated electrolyte (likely in gel form) instead of sulphuric acid so that users don't need to top up battery water (distilled water).

The battery's case is usually made of toughened polypropylene plastic which is covered or sealed once the electrolytes are filled. Some maintenance free batteries' seal design allow the unit to be positioned lying down without having the electrolyte flowing out.

Chemical Electricity

Electrical energy from the accumulator battery is generated via a chemical process between the electrolytes and electrodes; usually made up of a series of connected +ve and +ve galvanic lead plates in a electrolyte solution (e.g. 35% sulfuric acid & 65% distilled water along with lead oxide (powdered lead). The chemical reaction between the acidic fluid and lead plates gives out electrons that pass from the plates to the +ve and -ve nodes of the battery, delivering electrical energy. Outputs are measured in Volts and Amperes.

As the purity condition of the electrolyte and electrodes deteriorates, the amount of electrons thus electrical energy produced by the battery also reduces accordingly.

Functions

The primary functions of a battery are starting, lighting, and ignition. Their two electrical output functions are in volts and amps. Although we 12V is also available from a single 12V dry cell battery (or by connecting 8x 1.5V dry cell batteries), they do not have the sufficient amperage (100~200A) to crank start the engine.

The batter powers up the car starter which then spins the engine's flywheel and subsequently, the crankcase. The crankcase is connected to the belt/chain driven pulleys that the alternator (magnetic coil) is integrated with. The alternator takes over the recharging supply to the battery once the engine is running. Without charging from the alternator, the battery would be drained and dead in a matter of hours. Although an alternator is unlikely to fully recharge a battery, it resupply the battery with the energy it has lost from starting the vehicle and the electrical energy drawn from it.

Activation

Generally, an accumulator battery is activated when the electrolyte (chemicals like sulphuric acid or gel) starts reacting with the electrodes (usually lead) inside the battery. Some batteries are sold pre-activated while some require the buyer to pour electrolyte into the "empty" cell, then wait for a few hours before usage. Care has to be exercised when handling the electrolyte as it is highly acidic and produces unhealthy fumes; protective gloves and well ventilated environment are highly recommended.

Shelf Life

A battery is not ready for use after manufacturing until it is activated. Factory activated batteries starts to weaken during the period between storage, shipping, retail placement, and finally purchased by the consumer. Sulfation or the build up of lead sulfates inside the battery compartments slowly deteriorates the battery. Therefore, it is very important to check the manufacture date of factory activated batteries; reputable battery manufacturers and retailers usually date stamp their batteries to help monitor the "freshness" of their products.

The SW's stock battery is factory activated. If buying used bikes, checking for age of battery is a must.

Charging

Charging of a typical accumulator battery takes place when voltage is around 14V (13.8V~14.3V), between 2A~10A (depending on charging time), and takes more than just a few minutes; few hours are required for "full" charge even when using high Amperage charging (commonly known as quick charge).

Recommended way to recharge is to use small ampere (e.g. ~2A) over for a long period of time; commonly known as "Trickle Charge". Quick charging may be done by using a higher amp setting (e.g. 10A); should only be done if time is limited as overcharging will cause damage to the battery.

Generally, charging may be done:

(a) While riding the bike...

If you have a voltmeter fitted (more accurate if use a multimeter to measure directly from the 2 nodes of the battery), you will see that voltage generated by the bikes alternator (aka magneto or magnetic coil) at idling (about 1.2k rpm) is only around 12+~13V and increases to 14+V as we rev the rpm up (e.g. >4k rpm). This is one common way to test the bike's alternator for working condition. If 14+V cannot be consistently achieved with higher rpm, then something may be wrong with the alternator. This is on the basis that voltmeter is not defective and measures the output accurately (within spec).

Charging using this mode has 2 criteria, sufficient voltage from the alternator and sufficient charging duration. In other words, charging is unlikely to occur if we merely start the engine and leave it running at idling for a few minutes.

(b) At the workshop using battery chargers...

Charging services are commonly available at workshops costing only a few dollars, sometimes FOC on goodwill. The batt is taken out and connected to battery charger which runs a stipulated current through it over few hours.

e.g. 14+V & 2A for overnight charge, 14+V & 10A for few hours quick charge, etc.

Note that overcharging (too long hours or too high Amperage) a battery may cause damage which may be irreversible, depending on extent of damage to the electrodes.

E.g. suppose 16A is used to charge a bike battery, the high current could damage the electrodes (warp at lead plates and overheating) and ruined the battery. Not sure about risk of battery exploding.

e.g. of commercial batt charger

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61KY1s2VBGL._SL500_AA300_.gif

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41GcacTX5SL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

http://image.ec21.com/image/luck168/pre_GC02321952/Battery_Charger_Car_Charger_Adapter_Tranformer.jpg

e.g. of a small "home" bike batt charger http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4188mNu0MlL._SS500_.jpg

e.g. of portable solar batt charger http://www.gadgetreview.com/wp-conte...6/07/99737.jpg

Some indications of battery health?

+ Age is a consideration but a properly maintained battery could last much longer than one that is taxed and poorly taken cared of. The SW uses a maintenance free battery (e.g..YTZ12S or 14S) so maintenance is somewhat out of the equation.

+ Riding the bike regularly means the battery is charged regularly. It is said that the battery of a seldom used bike tends to die earlier.

+ Physical condition issues such as cracks, electrolyte leakage or excessive oxidation at the nodes could be early tell-tale signs.

+ After turning on the ignition, a faint but distinct â€œeeeeeeeeeâ€ sound could be heard coming from inside the bike is a good sign that battery is â€œcriticallyâ€ ill.

+ When starting bike, it takes a longer than normal time to finish crank phase (turning of the crankshaft) before engine is fired up; some pp describe it as if bike is â€œstrugglingâ€ to start.

+ While some pp regard the syndrome of electronics/meters resetting every time cranking is done is a sign that battery is weak and due for servicing/replacement, there are others who feels otherwise.

bike not started...
a healthy fully charged batt should give output 12+ to around 13V. if voltage is

bike started and at idling...
alternator (magnetic coil) start to work but generates lower voltage due to lower rpm. voltage reading is usually around 13+V.

bike started and rev to higher rpm...
alternator (magnetic coil) works harder and generates higher voltage, sufficient to power the bike and charge the batt. typically, lead-acid typed batts (including maintenance free types) require around 13.9~14.4V for proper charging to take place.

if voltage readings are well below, something may be defective. usual checks are:
a) condition of batt, try sending the batt for charging and see if its the batt problem.
b) condition of charging system units. i.e. magnetic coil, rectifier.
c) circuit "leaks"; difficult as it involves tracing the electrical harness for connections that continues to draw power when it is not "in use" or any short circuits.

BIG Question... is battery being charged?

if there's a problem with your bike's charging system, changing a new battery doesn't help as the new battery will run flat in no time... drained since no charging occurs. many SWingers installed Voltmeters on their bike to monitor the health of their batteries... voltage should be within "normal" ranges when bike is at idling (about 12+V) and on the run (14V~14.5V).

nevertheless, there's no need to panic if voltage falls outside the normal range, cos voltmeter could be defective. we can do a simple DIY test, with a simple multimeter (not costly too) which is readily available at many hardware/electrical shops or supermarkets.

DIY test steps

(a) location

put bike at main stand at a well ventilated location (select a place that does not cause inconvenience or disturbance to your neighbors). switch off all electrical components, including headlights if possible.

(b) measure the voltages at battery

lift seat, remove battery cover and connect a multimeter to measure the voltage directly from the nodes of battery. see if voltage is within normal range.

© interpret the readings

normal ranges:

... +/-12V when engine not started

... 12+V when started/idling

... 13~14+V when rev up to 3-4k rpm

if voltage doesn't increase with higher rpm, then something is likely wrong. voltmeter error? defective charging system?

voltmeter no longer reliable?

check the difference between the readings of the voltmeter (if fitted) and the multimeter (more accurate to measure directly at the battery). it's normal for voltmeter readings to be slightly lower than the multimeter readings as voltmeters are usually connected to the electrical harness after the ignition switch (many components draw power from the battery once the ignition is turned on).

but if the readings differ a lot, or when voltmeter readings do not rise as much as multimeter readings when rpm increases, then do consider the voltmeter as "no longer reliable".

poor/no charging?

charging problems could be caused a few elements, most commonly the magnetic coil and/or the rectifier. do note that we need at least about 14V to supply power to the bike and charge the battery.

if voltage does not increase when rpm increases, chances are, magnetic coil is defective (usually due to some burnt coil) as it is supposed to generate higher "electromagnetic" energy (raw output is AC) at higher rpms.

if voltage readings "jumps" about (between +ve and -ve), chances are, rectifier is defective and no charging could occur. 14+V DC voltage is required to charge the battery and converting AC current to DC current to power up all the electricals and electronics in the bike is the job of the rectifier. defective rectifier, no charging.

(d) measure the voltage at output terminal

the output terminal of the magnetic coil is located under/behind the right side pillion foot rest plate. remove the plate and use the multimeter to test the output.

p/s: i'm unable to describe the process cos only saw ah choong did it. didn't DIY.

i remembered that BS tested my charging system (few years ago) in 2 stages:
* when bike is "cool"
* when bike is hot
i was told by BS mech that my charging was ok when engine is not hot, but magnetic coil's performance deteriorated when it became hot, after having the engine running for some time. this is a sign of partially defective aka about to "die" magnetic coil http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/images/smilies/icon-tongue.gif

Some causes of battery problems?

+ Wear-n-tear. As the battery is used, the electrolytes inside deteriorates and the electrodes (usually made of lead) are slowly â€œeatenâ€ away.

+ Sulfation is like cancer to a human body and causes premature â€œdeathâ€ to a battery by impairing the condition of the electrodes.

+ Battery not charged; charging system may be defective. Defective components could be the stator aka magnetic coil (located at inside of right crank case cover) and/or the rectifier (located inside right side head cowl near the coolant reservoir).

+ Shorted electricals form closed circuits and drains the battery continuously; usually caused by poor/bad wirings of additional gadgets or damages to the rubber sleeves of wires/harness. Serious shorts usually cause fuse(s) to blow immediately which in turn disables the bike.

+ A common drain among cars could be leaving the headlights on overnight. But for a stock SW, the only live light after ignition is turned off (suppose seat was not closed properly or defective sensor) could be the under-seat cabin light which does not draw much current, not an issue if left on overnight but may have consequences if left on over prolonged periods. Some riders added a switch simply too out the not so useful bulb.

Date codes on batteries

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/13/22813/NP_BATTERY_DATE_CODE.pdf

Fuses

* checking / replacing fuses

fuses are located at 3 locations (see page 114-117 of manual)... 2 fuse boxes externally/easily accessible under the seat (10A, 15A & main fuse B 30A), 1 main fuse A (30A) inside left side panel which needs some dismantling

acknowledgement:

information extracted from the Yuasa website, Honda Silver Wing owner's manual and mentioned websites

Edited July 13, 2015 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · November 4, 2008

This is a follow up on the Battery discussion...

A bro asked me what to do when his SW's batt went flat recently, so i tot maybe we should something on that

My battery is dead?

+ When a battery holds no charge (zero voltage), it is dead. Depending on condition, it may be revived by charging using external chargers provided that the electrodes and electrolytes inside are not beyond recovery; some cases may require replacing/refilling the electrolytes.

+ A non-functional battery may be as "good" as dead; it may still hold charge but insufficient to start the engine as it is unable to deliver sufficient current to turn the stationary crankshaft and fire up the engine at the same time; the alternator takes over once the engine is started. Usually, charging could get it back operational again.

What to do if your battery is "dead"?

+ Call for towing services (e.g. Bikebulance +65 64255333, +65 96880928) or call your regular mechanic/motortiam (they have contacts/vendors) to arrange for recovery.

+ Call for â€œmobile mechanicsâ€ (e.g. Ah Hwa 97641031, Ah Peng 90028236, Ah Lai 94316851) who could possibly resolve your basic breakdowns on-site. We need to tell them over the phone what is wrong/symptoms so that they could decide whether able to repair on-site and make necessary preparations (e.g. parts). Some motortiams also provide similar on-site services.

+ Call a family member or friend who is free and willing to buy/deliver the required battery to you.

+ Park bike somewhere safe, remove and take the battery to motortiam for charging (quick charge needs about 1~2hrs if battery is still recoverable). Then return to bike with charged battery, mount it and start bike again.

+ Jump starting. Can try flagging down a passing by car/bike (or call a family member or friend) but a â€œjumperâ€ cable is required. Some bikers always carry a small set (usually fabricated) as those commonly available for cars are too bulky.

After bike is revived, always ride it to a mechanic for proper diagnosisâ€¦ a battery usually donâ€™t go dead out of the blue for nothing. Even if a new battery is fitted, it will go flat very soon if the charging system is defective

Notes:

(1) Although Bikebulance also offers towing services for breakdowns in Malaysia & Thailand, it is more economical to buy a battery (if breakdown is due to dead battery) than to pay the hefty tow charges (a few hundred SGD). They donâ€™t do towing in Thailand so if bike broke down in southern Thailand (e.g. Hatyai), we have to get the bike pass Malaysian customs/immigration at Bt Kayu Hitam (Kedah) before they will meet you there. We also need to provide paperwork (e.g. photocopies of ownerâ€™s passport, log card, sign some forms, etc) to facilitate customs clearing into Singapore.

(2) I have checked with a mechanic who is based in KL and his recommendation for a SW breakdown in Malaysia (other than simple faults or battery problem that does not require SW specific spare parts) is to ship the bike back to Singapore. Reason is there are no spare parts (unless mod or use compatible parts) for SW and lack of knowhow due to lack of SW in â€œBoleh-landâ€; heard that the very few SW inside are bought and serviced in Singapore.

Edited June 17, 2011 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · November 5, 2008

Whether it is time to replace your worn out plugs or thinking of getting a little more efficiency from your stock engine setup or just reading/listening to other riders talk about better accelerations by using better spark plugs, the information below would be of much value

These are what the manufacturers saysâ€¦

What's all the fuzz about iridium plugs?

What is Iridium?
Iridium is a precious, silver-white metal and one of the densest materials found on earth.
The natural properties of Iridium offered NGK the opportunity to create one of the world's finest spark plugs. The result are spark plugs that require less voltage to spark, burns fuel more efficiently, sparks at leaner air/fuel mixtures, and delivers higher horsepower and better gas mileage.
The fine electrode tip is engineered for greater ignitability. And it's in the design of the iridium tip that makes Iridium IX a better spark plug.
The electrode is not too thin and not too thick. It's just the right size to reduce the voltage required for spark and to maximize the overall longer life qualities of iridium.

Q. Why was Iridium not used until today?
A. The extreme strength of the metal inhibited its large-scale usage in spark plugs. However, through recent technological advances, DENSO has harnessed the power of Iridium. DENSOâ€™s patented alloy is composed of iridium, complimented by rhodium (an even stronger metal). The rhodium is added to increase oxidation and wear resistance. DENSO was able to make this durable alloy workable by pioneering and patenting a Laser-Welding/process. This process provides a 360-degree weld so reliable that the electrode resists wear, even in the harshest conditions.

Why use iridium plugs?

Q. What makes Iridium better?
A. Until recently, platinum was considered the best material to use on the top of an electrode because of its durability. However, Iridium is 6 times harder, 8 times stronger, and has a melting point 1200 degrees higher than platinum. Put that into a harsh environment such as an engine piston chamber, and you have a spark plug that can resist wear much better than platinum. Additionally, the DENSO Iridium Power alloy is so durable; it allowed our engineers to produce the worldâ€™s smallest center electrode (.4mm) which reduces the voltage requirements, concentrating its sparking power. Also, its smaller size, combined with the tapered U-Groove ground electrode, allows more room for the flame kernel to develop and produce a more efficient combustion.

Q. What kind of performance will I get from this plug?
A. Generally, you do not purchase spark plugs for performance enhancement. While DENSO Iridium Power spark plugs have contributed to numerous accomplishments through dyno-testing and actual use, their true benefit lies in their efficiency, durability, and improved firing power. Serious tuners modify their vehicles by increasing boost through turbo-chargers, super-chargers, and Nitrous. They are also known to add high-energy ignition systems, tinker with timing, adjust fuel mixture ratios, and increase horsepower through other means. Putting these kinds of demands on their engine increases the need for an efficient, durable spark plug that can handle these kind of harsh environments. Thatâ€™s where DENSO Iridium Power can make a major difference.

Who are the major makers?

Main makes in Singaporeâ€¦

Densoâ€¦ http://www.globaldenso.com/PLUG/power/images/top_photo_features_b.jpg

NGKâ€¦ http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/prod_images/display/iridiumix.jpg

OWSâ€¦ http://www.ows.com.au/images/products_sparkplugs.jpg

Othersâ€¦

Volkerâ€¦ German

http://www.volker-iridium.com/images/volker pack1.jpg

Torch Iridium spark plugsâ€¦ China

http://upload.ecvv.com/upload/Product/200801/C2006327154214872112_Iridium_Spark_plugs.jpg

Wanbaolong Iridium spark plugs 070Dâ€¦ China

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/52096111/Spare_Parts_for_Dirt_Bike_Iridium_Spark_Plug_070D.jpg

Which to choose?

Be it Denso, NGK or OWS, each has got their own group of supporters. Manufacturers have their claims and users have their preferences.

It is very much a matter of personal preference, but get the real thing! Thereâ€™s rumours that â€œimitationsâ€ (claimed to be OEM) are also in the market.

Going by budget (from quotes I got in Jun 2008), NGK is more economical, followed by Denso and then OWS.

My personal preference is for Denso or NGK. Have considered the twin iridium tipped OWS but dropped the idea after reading some scary feedbacks from other riders using them.

Definitely wouldnâ€™t even think about other makes to be on the safe side.

Hereâ€™s the results of a poll made http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/poll.php?do=showresults&pollid=800

Some feedbacksâ€¦ OWS & Hodaka iridium spark plugs broke inside engine

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3838148&postcount=487

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4517527&postcount=519

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4519372&postcount=521

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187899&highlight=spark+plug+broke

Q5. Which Iridium plugs are better? NGK Iridium IX or Denso Iridium Power?
A5. That really depends on what you want from your plugs. Denso's Iridium Power reputedly offer the best performance but have a shorter service life than NGK's Iridium IX.

What plugs does Honda Silver Wing uses?

Honda Silver Wing FJS 400 (Euro) owner's manual indicated that we can use the following spark plugs:

__ Denso: U22FER-9, U24FER-9 (IUH-24 / 24D not stated but cross referenced)

__ NGK : CR7EH-9, CR8EH-9 (CR8EHIX-9 not stated but cross referenced)

e.g. IUH24 means 0.4mm diameter iridium tip, 10 diameter x 19mm reach (half thread) x 16.0mm hex, heat range 24. IUH24D is same but has no u-grove at incone1 ground electrode.

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/power/spec.html

IUH24 or IUH24D?

Both can be used for the SW. Difference between them is only the U-Grove that is available in the IUH24. Function of the grove is to let the flame kernel caused by the spark to grow to a larger size, even at lower spark voltage and narrower gap.

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/power/images/p1-1.jpg

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/power/images/p1-6.jpg

IUH24D don't have the groove thus is less powerful, less torque but seems slightly smoother.

Go for the recommended IUH24.

To find out more about what these codes mean, read Design Symbols for Spark Plugs

Where to buy and how much?

Parts suppliers (e.g. FJT, 219, etc), all major motorshops (Looiâ€™s, Mah, ASP, HKL, etc) and the all famous LAB carries but prices will vary from $15 to $20+ each, depending on your bargaining skills and whether installation included.

Motoworld quoted $40 (2x IUH24) including installation so I went to LAB and got them for $30, DIY and saved $10.

When to change (service life)?

Recommendations from the manufacturers...

Denso = 30,000 miles or 50,000 km
NGK = 50,000 miles or 80,000 km
OWS = 200,000 miles or 320,000 km

Q. How long will Iridium Last?
A. For example, many newer Lexusâ€™ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications. Because gradual wear will â€œround-offâ€ firing points over time, the concentrated firing power and voltage requirement benefits will be reduced. For this reason, DENSO advises replacement after 30,000 miles.

Q6. How long should my spark plugs last?
A6. That is dependant on the application and condition of the engine. High revving engines, driven hard, (eg motorcycles) will wear plugs much more quickly than a large engined car which is used for cruising. Standard copper plugs usually have an estimated service life of 10,000 to 20,000 miles depending upon design and application, Denso recommend changing their Iridium Power plugs before the maximum 30,000 miles, NGK's Iridium IX may last up to 60,000 miles in a standard use car engine. Double platinum types may last 60,000 miles or more and some NGK and Denso OEM Iridium types may last up to 120,000 miles. The plugs optimum performance level is passed a long time before these intervals so we would recommend changing plugs regularly as a matter of course. An engine, ignition or carburation/injection fault or poor adjustment may cause premature wear and/or failure. Tuned engines, engines driven hard, poor quality fuel amongst other factors can all dramatically reduce service life.

Common practice...

although by spec the iridium sparkies can last much longer, i change them every 20k kms. at my rate of riding nowadays, it'll probably take near 2 years to get there, even with touring. guess i'ld just have to use my butt-dyno to decide; maybe change after 1+ years or when don't like the feel anymore

some riders take the sparkies out to check/clean (not all will check gap though), then put back and ride for another few k if sparkies still look ok.
for me, i don't like to put sparkies back once they're taken out at 20k; if still good, keep as spare for emergency use, else throw. the wear on electrodes may be minor, but gasket (usually 2 soft metallic washers) may not seal as tight when "reused". at correct torque and tightening technique, the 2 washers are partially/sufficiently crushed to form a tight seal between the flat surface of the head and the spark plug housing (just above the threads). reusing and crushing the metallic washers a 2nd time may not achieve the desired sealing for optimal performance.
æˆ‘ä¸å–œæ¬¢æ¼æ°”

How to change?

Most convenientâ€¦ most motor-shops will sell their plugs with installation.

DIYâ€¦ see

post #144 How to change spark plugs?

or http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1364;pid=14325#pid14325

Acknowledgement:

Information is compiled from many articles in the Internet, including Denso and NGK manufacturers' websites

Edited February 20, 2014 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · February 20, 2009

repost... in case they "flush" the pre-2009 posts

estimated costs... only estimates and also depends on how much motortiam carrot you

engine/performance related:
+ electric or air horn (life saving) ~$20 (DIY), $50 to >$120 (include fitting) depends on make/model
+ steel braided brake hose (more sensitive braking) easily to $500+ coz SW needs longer n more hoses (can customise)
+ PA2/Revtec/voltage stabiliser (preserve batt, smoother engine, better fc, etc) ~$99, check out advertisers board
+ grounding (preserve batt, smoother engine) ~$35, check out advertisers board
+ PA ignite (more torque) think is >$250, check out advertisers board
+ iridium spark plugs (more torque) ~$20 ea, cheaper if buy only plugs
+ spark plug wires (more torque)
+ rollers & multivar (low/high end performance) check out advertisers board
+ front fork suspensions (better road handling) ~$220 to change spring
+ rear shock absorbers (better road handling) ~$400 to $900 depends on make/model
+ after-market cruise control systems
+ tires... this one is necessity, not really considered mod
+ nitrogen gas for tires
+ ABS (anti-locking)... models sold in Europe comes with ABS
+ brake master cylinders/pumps
+ brake levers (more cosmetics)
+ brake disc rotors
+ brake pads
+ radiator protector (needs DIY)
+ air filters (e.g. K&N)
+ aftermarket end-can or full systems (exhausts) ~$900+
+ short wind shields
+ power commanders (tune fuel/air ratio) ~$680 (include dyno/mapping)

lights/electricals:
+ hazard lights ~$15 to >$40 depends on type of switch/method
+ pilot lights ~$25 to >$40 depends on where fitted
+ secondary brake lights (some top-boxes already have) ~$30 to >$80 depends on what/where fitted
+ flashing brake lights lights ~$25 to >$50 depends on where fitted
+ flashing hazard lights when apply brakes ~$25 to >$50 depends on where fitted
+ reading light for front dashboard ~$35 to >$80 depends on where fitted
+ HID kit (brighter whiter headlights) ~$180 to >$400 depends on make/model
+ spot/fog lights (safety in the dark, illegal in sinkapor) ~$90 to >$200 depends on make/model
+ LED/neon lights (cosmetics) ~$45 to >$100 depends on type
+ blinkers/strobe lights (may be illegal) ~$25 to >$700 depends on make/model, check out advertisers board
+ 1-way or 2-way alarm systems (security) ~$120 to >$700 depends on make/model, check out advertisers board
+ voltmeter (monitor batt) ~$45 to >$70
+ speed-trap detector (illegal in sinkapor) no estimates available
+ long range 2-way radios (not walkie-talkies, need license)
+ rider-pillion communicator sets ~$170 to >$800 depends on make/model
+ sound/music when apply brakes ~$25 to >$100
+ stereo system (entertainment) ~really depends on what you put in
+ battery ~$70 to $170 (stock)
+ automatic signal canceler & controller
+ under seat LED lighting ~$20+ (DIY)

bodyworks/utility:
+ side mirrors (for less vibrations or better cosmetics) ~$15 to >$$$ depends on type/design
+ balancers (less vibrations) ~$25 to >$50 for motovation
+ chain locks or disc lock or disc lock alarm (security) ~$25 to >$700 depends on make/model
+ hand grips (friction & comfort) ~$25 to >$100
+ top boxes ~$80 to >$400 depends on make/model
+ dashboard hooks ~$25 to >$80 depends on make/model
+ headlight protector (preserve headlight) ~$35
+ bigger/wider wind shield (more comfort) ~$220 to >$350+ (imports)
+ bike seat cover (comfort & design) ~$50 to >$100 depends on design/material
+ gel seat padding (under the cover)
+ IU cover/jacket (looks only) ~$12 to $20
+ Seng kwang IU bracket ~$80+ (depends on customisation)
+ respray paintwork ~$500 to >$1k depends on colours/design
+ air-brush artwork
+ cup holders
+ hand guards (protects hand at handgrips)
+ throttle rocker (relief stress/strain on wrist/hand to hold throttle) ~$4 (LAB)
+ GPS/mobile phone holder (our handle bar difficult to use ram mount)
+ camera holder (DIY or customise at sengkwang)
+ underseat boot electric release
+ rider back support

+ + sooooooo many :D

hey bros... lets add in or update the prices

please... please dun get the WRONG idea that i have all of them hor http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Manga/japanese-043.gif

big $$ question... does changing to aftermarket exhausts really help?

Get exhaust bro. Will improve on performance. I'm getting 21km/l. Aggressive riding too.

So far I haven't re-tune anything yet. Have yet to check my air filter and spark plugs. Intend to do the air filter and replace to iridium spark plugs and then go for synchro. With baffle, sound is just a little louder than stock. Still very quite just that the droning sound is slightly more obvious. Typical of a parallel twin cylinder engine. Maybe you want to meet up and hear for yourself.

Bro btw after installing the full system, did u send ur bike for a re- tune? Or is not require?
Tempting to replace buit just afraid I will miss out the smooth quite sound produce will stock exhaust.. Lol

Edited November 5, 2014 by scoobydoo

Trance Energy · February 21, 2009

Upz for this useful thread..

scoobydoo · February 24, 2009

Variator, Roller Weights, Torque/Contra Spring, Clutch Springs

As a summary from my understanding, the SW's transmission system may be subdivided into 3 main assemblies:

(1) Drive Face assembly... mounted/driven by crank shaft

(2) Driven Face assembly (including clutch)... (1) & (2) connected by drive belt

(3) Final Transmission (aka final drive gears)... to turn rear wheel

See below for how variator systems works.

Primary functions of Drive Face assembly are to:

+ tow the drive belt that turns the Driven Face assembly

+ "change gears" by varying (opening and closing) the gap between the 2 drive faces that grip the belt... maybe that's how the name "variators" came about.

Some common issues:

- Worn belt such that variator faces could not grip it firmly, result in belt slippage

- Worn variator faces (can see deep groves cut by the belt) causing ineffective grips on the belt, resulting in belt slippage, rough/uneven "gear" changing as belt movements impeded by the groves, etc.

Note that a light grove is usually there at the outer section of the face plates due to normal usage, normal as long as cut is not deep.

- Worn rollers (can see roller face no longer round with flat areas), resulting in uneven "gear" changing as rollers could not roll properly due to flat faces), worst case situation is stuck at high gear when roller(s) get stuck at its outer position and unable to drop back), etc.

- Worn slides or u-clips (aka u-shoes) may impede the smooth movement of the ramp plate inwards and outwards of the assembly when pushed by the rollers.

- Motor oil leak due to damaged/worn oil seal/o-ring... belt slippage, clutch slippage (oil carried from front to rear by the oily belt), may cause clutch pads to wear/overheat due to prolonged slippage, etc.

- Dirt from dirty transmission may cause damage (e.g. scratches, premature wearing, etc) to variator faces and/or rollers, etc.

Primary functions of Driven Face assembly (including clutch) are to:

+ engage and disengage the "gears"... controlled by the clutch assembly

+ return "gears" to lower level... workings of torque (also called contra) spring

+ turn the final drive gears which turns the rear wheel

Some common issues:

- Worn clutch pads, resulting in clutch slippage and may cause damage to clutch bell when peg body comes into contact with bell.

- Dirty or oily stained clutch pads or clutch bell results in clutch slippage. Larger dirt substances may damage the clutch bell by scarring the contact surfaces.

- Dirt inside the "pivots" where the clutch pegs turn obstructs smooth in/out movements of the 5 clutch pegs, resulting in slippage due to improper/uneven clutch grips on the bell, e.g. loss of grip or not all pegs gripping the bell evenly.

- Weak clutch springs may not return the clutch pegs sufficiently to their disengaged positions at lower rpms (e.g. at idling), causing unintended engagement or contact between pegs and bell (bad for pads due to heat from contact and unnecessary wearing). Similar effects when 1 or more springs are broken.

- Similar to drive face assembly, worn/scarred face plates are usually caused by the belt cutting groves on the plates' faces.

Light grove is also there at the outer section of the face plates due to normal usage, normal as long as cut is not deep.

- A weakened torque spring may not deliver enough push to close the variator plates at desired "rate", resulting is insufficient or slow "drop gear" action.

A good example could be when riding up shears bridge from ECP towards west at say 70+km/h (abt 4+krpm). With a good torque spring, rider can lower throttle, variator drops gear instantaneously (spring exerts force to press driven face plates together, forcing belt to move outwards once tension from front is eased), increase throttle for more pull to ride up the slope. If torque spring is weak, it takes a longer time to drop gear as bike needs to slow down sufficiently to achieve lower rpm before the driven face plates closes to push the belt outwards.

- A worn belt is bad as it will cut the faces of both drive and driven variator plates. Center of belt is reinforced by some fibre thingy and when the rubbery compound wears out, this reinforcement element starts to cut the variator plates.

- Results of a broken belt is needless to explain, no drive. Worse, the snapping/whipping motion of the belt is likely to case damage to the transmission case and maybe even the variators inside.

Primary function of Final Transmission (aka final drive gears)

is to convert the energy from transmission to turn the rear wheel. It is very important that the gears are properly lubricated.

Do note that Honda recommended 10w40 motor oil instead of the normal gear oil for the SW, unlike other scooters.

- - - -

See also tech corner post #24 "Normal Gear Oil For Final Transmission? Not Recommended!" for more info.

- - - -

someone posted a very good writeup on variator, rollers weights and contra spring (even though its at aprilla forum). recommended readings
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8960

this post i found from another forum is particularly useful to newcomers to the CVT scooter world.

reading the post, you can:

learn about how the transmission system works - changing from lower to higher gears

names of the various parts (e.g. belt, rollers, variator, sliders or u-clips, torque or contra spring, etc) and their functions

http://www.teamcalamari.com/zuma/pix/variatoranimation.gif

-------------------------------------
Variator, roller weights and contra spring mechanics for dummies! Learn how it works

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8960

"duplicating" his post here in case its lost

OK, another issue I see asked a lot is about different roller weights, different variators, and different contra springs. So I am going to attempt to put it out in simple terms. I drew these pictures real quick, and they are not to scale, but they should work and give you a good idea.

The truth of the matter is, A new variator, spring, and weights WILL NOT increase your vehicles over all power!!!

What it does do is adjust your rate of acceleration, and at what RPM your motor runs at while it is accelerating, and at what speed the motor is reving when you reach the highest gear ratio available.

Now having said both of those things, the key is to have your motor running at about 8000 - 8500 rpm's consistantly while accelerating. This is where your greatest horsepower is generated. If you are accelerating at 5000 rpm's or 9500 rpm's, this will decrease your acceleration because your horsepower is not at it's peak.

This is achieved through trial and error. Changing your contra spring, and then trying different roller weights is how this is achieved.

In order for you to understand which way you need to go with weights and springs, you must first understand how the entire drive train works.

Lets start with the front pully of the variator. This is where your roller weights and ramp plate are located.
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1065&stc=1&d=1062434904

Now as the rpm's of the motor increase, the centrifugal force pushes the roller weights out (Number 1 in picture).

The roller weights push out and onto the angle plates surface. This causes the rear half of the pully to move toward the front half of the pully (Number 2 in Picture).

When the rear half of the pully pushes to the front pulley, it forces the belt out to a higher gear ratio. (Number 3 in picture).
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1066&stc=1&d=1062435180

If you are thinking about getting a new variator, Let me first start by telling you that it will probably not have any effect on your over all top speed. What it will do is give you a more steady acceleration. The distance that the rear half of the pully can travels pretty much remains the same. Meaning that it will only push the belt out as far as the stock variator will which results in the same high gear ratio as the stock variator. The key difference between the stock and performance variators is the angle on which the roller weights travel and the angle on the angle plate in the rear of the variator. This will only help give you a smoother - more constant acceleration.

Now as for the different weights for the rollers. It is really rather simple. The heavier the weight, the more force will be applied to the angle plate forcing the rear pully forward faster. If the roller weights are too heavy, it will force the gear into too high of a gear too fast.

I like to use a 10 speed bicycle as a comparrison. From a dead start, if you are in 10th gear, it is very difficult to get going. But if you are in first gear, it is very easy to get moving. the same principle applies here. You want the weights to keep you in first gear, and as the rpm's increase, it will gradually step the gears up untill it reaches tenth gear.

If your roller weights are too light, then there will not be enough force to push the ramp plate out and the rear half forward. This will result in good acceleration, but a low top end.

This is what the ratio looks like in low gear. You will see that the front pully is small, and the rear pully is large. This is like first gear of the 10 speed bike:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1067&stc=1&d=1062435893

This is what the gear ratio looks like when the roller weights are pushed out and the rear half of the pully is forward. The belt is pushed out to a higher ration. This is like tenth gear on the bicycle:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1068&stc=1&d=1062436036

Contra Spring = Torque Spring

Torque spring is a spring that is pressing on the rear variatior. Installing a higher tension spring will increase the overall torque curve. You will feel it when the scoot is going up slope (Benjamin Shears bridge). You will have more torque to conquer up hill roads but lose out on top speed.

Now the other factor in this equation is the rear pully. The rear pully has a spring holding it together. This is your contra spring.

The front half of the pully is also torque controlled. There are angled grooves that the pully travels on. As torque is applied, this limits the belt from traveling in too quickly. Likewise, as you go up a hill and torque is applied to the pully, it is supposed to force the pully together giving you a lower gear ratio.

This is what the rear pully looks like at low rpm's:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1069&stc=1&d=1062436388

This is what the rear pully looks like at high rpm's:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1070&stc=1&d=1062436487

If your roller weights are giving you good acceleration, and a good top end, but when you approach a small hill the scooter slows drastically, this may be caused by having too light of a contra spring. The contra spring helps push the rear pully back together when torque is applied to the rear pully.

Also if you are running good at say 50MPH, and you slow down to say 35MPH. If you try to accelerate, and you have hardly any acceleration, this can also be caused by having too light of a contra spring. When you slow down, the spring is supposed to push the rear pully together into a lower gear ratio. If the spring isn't strong enough, the pully will remain in a high gear, and then when you try to accelerate, there isn't enough power to push you because you are in too high of a gear.

On the other hand, if your spring is too strong, then the roller weights may not be heavy enough to force the belt out all the way and into it's highest gear ratio.

If you go with a heavier contra spring, you may need to go to a slightly higher roller weight. Likewise, if you go to a lower spring, you may need to go to a lighter weight.

There is a very fine balance that you must achieve between the contra spring and your roller weights. This is only accomplished through trial and error.

--------------------------------

Acknowledgement:
Information is compiled from many articles in the Internet, including Youtube.com and Aprilia Forum
some pics from Fusionjaz

Edited April 5, 2012 by scoobydoo

SW9000 · March 6, 2009

In General:

1. Fork oil level is measured when the fork is compressed fully without the spring inside. When compressed, the fork tube exposed should be about 9cm from top of fork to the rubber dust cover. *Take note that some fork tubes might get stuck at the lowest point when fully compressed. The mech should be able to extend it back with a slight knock.

The actual oil measurement (amount of air) is from the top of the fork opening to the level of the oil inside the fork.

http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/translate_url_content?.intl=us&lp=it_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.silverwing400.it%2findex.php%3foption%3dcom_content%26task%3dview%26id%3d193%26Itemid%3d44

2. If there is no manual available, it is sometimes normal for a mech to set the oil up to the rubber dust cover.

Stock Front Suspension:

1. 10cm of air

2. or 302mm of fork oil.

3. Honda Fork Oil SAE10 (Approx. viscosity 32)

Leave this setting alone if you like your fork to be a soft and don't play with corners that much. Bike will be a bit bouncy on uneven roads and corners.

Some Minor Improvements to Stock Setting:

1. Use SAE 15 fork oils (viscosity in the range of 45 +/-) to increase the dampings - e.g. Maxima Fork Oil 15wt & Silkolene Pro RSF 10wt Fully Synthetic.

** The bike will be more stable and calm but can feel more of the uneven roads and the bumps are harder.

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/lowspeed.htm

** SAE 20wt oils may be too thick for SW. Bike handling will feel heavy but some people may still like it that way.

2. Decrease the amount of air in the fork (add more oil) - 9cm air for better handling and 8cm if you like it harder. Try not to go below 8cm becos the bike will feel rough (vibrations) and the fork seal might burst under extreme condition.

3. Or do what the Italians do... turn the spring upside down to further minimise vibration.

Major Improvement:

Replace with a Hyperpro Fork Spring (approx. $240 without installation or $260 with installation from Motoworld). Bike will be more stable into corners though handling will feel a bit stiff. You can use the 20wt fork oil that comes with it or use a lighter 15wt oil to minimise the bumps.

The above write-up is only for sharing.

Feel free to input additional knowledge to improve this almost perfect bike.

Additional link for suspension knowledge below:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Suspension.html

Edited December 30, 2011 by SW9000

scoobydoo · March 8, 2009

my understanding of multi-grade oils tells me that the 6 Winter-grades (from 0W to 25W) makes no difference in tropical countries like Singapore and Malaysia where temperatures has never fall below 20 degrees.
can i say that AZO, ASL and ATM oils delivers the same performance in hot tropical countries, since they are of the same 30 weight?

another thing... other than the motorcycle oil MCF, is the signature series oil suitable for use in a motorcycle with a stand-alone clutch assembly outside the engine (i.e. no contact with engine oil at all). i often run the bike at >7000 rpm for prolonged hours during long distanced interstate touring in peninsula Malaysia.

To answer in short:

1. AZO, ASL & ATM have different Kinematic Viscosity at 40Â°C. As 90% of engine wear occurs during the start-up period, ideally we should try to minimise such wear by choosing one with lowest Kinematic Viscosity (which is AZO in this case).

2. Yes. No doubt signature series will work (just like any other oil). However, my recommendation is against such practice (even for stand-alone clutch assembly). For optimum performance & protection, you should go for dedicated motorcycle oil.

Hope it helps. Thanks.

Question:
Difference Between Car and Motorcycle Oils
What is the difference from motorcycle oil than car oil?
-- Matt Coffman, Attica, NY

Answer:
Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

Mobil
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Differences_Between_Car_and_Motorcycle_Oil.aspx

More than you ever want to know about engine oil

http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Lots of articles about engine oil... good read

http://members.themotoroilevaluator.com/index.php?id=153

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/visc.jpg

Edited November 18, 2011 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · March 17, 2009

Vacuum gauges (also known as carb tuners) are possibly one of the most useful diagnostic tool in engine diagnosis. They are used to measure the manifold pressure. The vacuum gauge reads in either millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) or inches of mercury (in Hg). Those measurements mean the vacuum is strong enough to support a column of mercury in a tube to a height of so many millimeters or inches. 0 in Hg is equal to atmospheric pressure. A fully loaded engine at wide-open throttle will reach close to this reading. 30 in Hg is referred to as a perfect vacuum. It is a point where there is no pressure at all. It is a theoretical number because it is impossible to achieve. An engine decelerating on closed throttle will reach close to this reading.

Healthy engines will create more vacuum in their inlet manifolds than worn engines. So a pressure comparison between a known healthy reading and the engine you are testing can assist in determining the state of wear of the engine. Apart from diagnostics, vacuum gauges are also used for tuning or synchronizing the carbs (also applicable to efi bodies), thus the name carb tuners.

http://www.carbtune.co.uk/Images/animtitl.gif

On most occasions, turning the mixture screw in (clockwise) leans the mixture, while counterclockwise (out) enriches the mixture. The goal of adjusting the idle-mixture screws is to achieve the highest possible idle vacuum at a set idle speed. If the idle speed increases after you adjust the idle-mixture screws (which is likely), be sure to adjust the idle speed back to the base speed. This is important because a higher idle speed will increase the vacuum reading. Maintaining a standard idle speed will make it easier to evaluate changes to the idle-mixture screws.

simple analogue vacuum gauge

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/93500-93599/93547.gif

multi-column carb tuner

http://www.carbtune.co.uk/Images/SSL11411SC.jpg

Using Vacuum Gauges to Diagnose Engine Health

Where the Vacuum Comes From?

On the intake system of a petrol internal combustion engine there exists a throttle valve. It doesnâ€™t matter if itâ€™s an old carby engine or a fuel injected engine, in both cases power is limited by closing off the airflow. (Itâ€™s not for nothing that the valve is known as a â€˜throttleâ€™ â€“ when less than fully open, itâ€™s literally chocking off the airflow!)

When the engine is working at less than wide-open throttle, vacuum â€“ or a pressure lower than atmospheric â€“ occurs after the throttle.

So when itâ€™s sitting there idling, the engine is trying to draw in as much air as youâ€™d expect from a big air pump, but the nearly closed throttle is actually restricting the flow to just a trickle. As a result, after the throttle there exists a vacuum. Think about it for a moment and you can see that the better the air pump (ie engine) is working, the higher will be the vacuum reading. Or, to put it another way, if the pistons rings are leaking badly, the engine will be trying to draw in less air than it should â€“ so the vacuum wonâ€™t be as strong.

The use of a vacuum gauge plumbed into the intake system after the throttle can therefore give a guide to the engineâ€™s mechanical health. Furthermore, the way the needle moves on the gauge can tell you additional information â€“ especially when the throttle of the running engine is rapidly opened and closed. In fact, a vacuum gauge can give you information about problems such as:

* Rings
* Valves
* Leaking intake manifold gaskets
* Exhaust blockages
* Wrong ignition timing
* Valve timing

Normal: steady reading of 17-22 when engine at idling

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/images/vac2.gif

Normal: when throttle is opened and closed rapidly, needle falls to 2 and swings back to 24 or 25, falling back to normal idle reading... indicates rings and valves are ok

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/images/vac3.gif

video clips

http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/fz6-technical/3102-throttle-body-synch-movie.html

References:

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Using-a-Vacuum-Gauge-for-Engine-Diagnostics/A_2393/article.html

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lancia-tips-on-reading-gauges/tips-on-reading-gauges-vacuum-gauges.cfm

http://books.google.com.sg/books?id=kFgpc28hnukC&printsec=frontcover&dq=using+vacuum+gauge+on+EFI#PPA168,M2

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/45638/index.html

http://www.tuningmadeeasy.com/tuning/vacuum-gauge-the-wonder-tool/

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/VacuumLeaks.htm

http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/Vacuum_Tuning

Acknowledgement:

Information is compiled from many articles in the Internet, including Morgan Carbtune's website

Edited April 25, 2012 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · March 19, 2009

see the attached guide... what you need:

* 2 vacuum gauges; 1 also can, take reading of 1 and adjust the other to that same reading... but very leh-chay alternatively, can use dedicated instruments such as Carb Tune Pro

* rubber hoses (to connect from manifold to gauges)

* screw drivers

* airy working space,

(we don't need external petrol dripper coz engine uses fuel pump)

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=111643&d=1246549926

the attached "vacuum gauge.pdf" illustrates how such vacuum gauges can be used to test and tune the engines

so where are the screws?

there're 3 screws visible (see pic) after you remove the black plastic top cover, the one on its own and most towards the front is the idle "knob".

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/AirScrews.jpg

have personally tried some different settings (see attached):

(a) right & left 2.0 turns... somewhat sluggish response, FC about 22+km/L

(b) right 1.8 turns, left 1.65 turns (staggering*)... most responsive, FC near 25km/L

* heard from some mechs that some riders purposely stagger their setting so as to get a more "rugged" response. in theory, this may not be good for the engine "workload" between the 2 cylinders are uneven; one richer/leaner than the other.

Steps

* best time to do the tweak is after a ride, when the engine is warmed up.

* stop engine and park bike on main stand at a well ventilated space.

* lift seat and remove the black seat under cover.

* before you do anything, take note of existing setting (how many turns) by turning the screw in (clockwise) slowly while counting the turns; factory setting is usually around 2 turns.

* connect the hoses of the vacuum gauges (or balancer) as shown in the manual (see attached).

* select a primary screw for referencing (say left screw for illustration). always work on 1 air-screw at a time.

* close (clockwise) the primary air-screw fully and make a marking at the "zero" point (see pic below).

* turn the air-screw out (anti-clockwise) to the desired setting, say 1.75 turns.

* repeat the same for the second air-screw; use the same setting as the primary air-screw.

* note the settings: e.g. Left 1.75 / Right 1.75.

* start engine and let it run at idle till fan starts.

* balance second air-screw to same level as primary air-screw (reference).

* adjust the idle rpm to desired level (around 1.2k); idle rpm will run when air-screw settings are changed.

* rev the engine a little and let it idle again.

* check gauge levels for both sides. if out, balance again. if same, balancing done.

* stop engine and let it cool a little.

* put back the original vacuum hose connections and the cover... job done

note: strongly suggest you make a red mark (can use normal perm marker) at the fully closed position for referencing

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114020&d=1247705826

Ahh... not so easy to learn and set to the optimum.
I realised that the Honda manual says 'Air Screw', which means it's different from mixture screw:
1. Air screw - turn out (anti-clockwise) = lean mixture.
2. Mixture screw - turn out (anti-clockwise) = rich mixture.

Brain now got stuck thinking how to tune. I can either:
Option1.
1. Leave both screws at 2 turns out and adjust from there. *That was the stock number of turns I got when I 1st meddle with them at 5k. It is also my current setting. Told K & T Ah Jin to keep it near 2 turns during all the tuning.
FC has been 25-26km/L (90-100km/h). Bike very smooth all the way to 130km/h (rpm 7) after that a bit strain. Not sure if the bike is like that (hey, it's only a 400cc) or the setting is a bit lean (since most SW are getting 23-25).
2. I might try 1.75 turns (or even 1.5) and see if got power increase since the mixture would be richer?
3. If no improvement in performance, then I'll fall back to my current setting.

Option2.
1. Adjust 1 screw to the highest reading it can sustain at steady state. ** Some say the highest steady level is the best air/fuel mix.
2. Adjust the other screw to match.
Ehh... This method I got no review. So not sure how true or accurate the adjustment will be.

Anyway, just ordered a Morgan Carbtune Pro to play with. Should be arriving in 1-2 weeks.

Vacuum Gauge.pdf

Edited April 12, 2012 by scoobydoo
update pic & PDF file

scoobydoo · April 28, 2009

Tyre Markings

our Silverwing uses tyres with specs: front 120/80 14M/C 58S, rear 150/70 13M/C 64S... and these specs are found on the tyres

ever wonder what they mean?

p/s: info is from various Internet sources

http://www.irc-tire.com/mce/

http://www.motorcycle-tyres.com/tyremarkings.html

http://www.pneus-online.co.uk/load-and-speed-indexes-advice.html

http://www.tst-tyres.co.uk/info.htm

etc... etc... etc...

e.g. 120/80 14M/C 58S

120 = nominal section width of tyre in millimeters

/80 = ratio of height as % of width is 80%

14 = wheel/rim diameter is 14 inches

M/C = tyre construction

58 = maximum load 218Kg

S = speed index, max. speed 180 km/h

e.g. 150/70 13M/C 64S

150 = nominal section width of tyre in millimeters

/70 = ratio of height as % of width is 70%

13 = wheel/rim diameter is 13 inches

M/C = tyre construction

64 = maximum load 280Kg

S = speed index, max. speed 180 km/h

FAQ: Is it OK to use a different size?

First, lets compare tyres of differences specifications, e.g. smaller tyres.

Michelin City Grip 120/70-14 140/60-13

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/TyresizeRear_zps48f9727d.png

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=120-80r14-120-70r14

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/TyresizeFront_zps81c130fc.png

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=150-70r13-140-60r13

Generally, slightly larger or smaller tyres may be used, but there will be some differences in performance and handling (safety) compared to the recommended or stock setups. Using tyres of different sizes also alters the braking dynamics of the bike, in areas such as force experienced by the brake callipers/assembly and balance of the bike, especially during e-braking.

Some reasons to use larger (or smaller) tyres

* Calibration ... to get "real" speed

Most bikes/cars have their speedometer/odometer calibrated according to the size of their respective tyre sizes. Somehow, speedometer readings are usually slightly higher then the actual travelling speeds. e.g. SW speedo is around 4-8km/h faster, depending on speed ranges.

From the tables above, we can see that smaller tyres register faster speeds as they need to rotate more turns to travel the same distance.

In such cases, using a larger tyre may help reduce the difference between real and speedo speeds, provided the tyre can fit the bike/car.

* Larger ... fuel economy on long haul/leg travelling

Larger tyres (bigger circumference) needs less turns to travel a specific distance as compared to smaller one. This allows the bike/car to travel at lower rpms and possibly some fuel savings over long stretches of travelling on highways.

* Smaller ... fuel economy for start-stop city use

Comparing with larger tyres, smaller tyres (smaller radius) needs less torque to move the bike/car, especially during pickups. This helps to reduce unburn fuel during accelerations which in turn leads to fuel savings, more evident for city travellers.

Age of Tyre

Apart from fitting & load/speed specs, age of tyre is also a very important thing to note.

Tyres have a high percentage of natural rubber in their makeup which is biodegradable and therefore, have a shelf life. A typical lifespan tyre is about 4 years (some manufacturers claim theirs is 5 years). Once it reached their lifespan, rubber would have started to harden & more prone to crack when running under hot weather. Or at the very least not grip as effectively as when it was new. So to be on the safe side, do consider changing your tyre once itâ€™s expired irregardless if the threads are still good. Even if tyre is not used, the rubber compound of tyre looses its elasticity (in about 2 years if stowed properly) and can also harden or crack.

The date of manufacture is usually indicated on one side of tyre in week-week-year-year format.

e.g. 2106 means tyre was manufactured on week 21 of 2006 (52 weeks a year). suppose today is week 24 of 2008, tyre would be more than 2 years old and you may wanna ask for a "younger" one

The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that Tire Identification Code be a combination of eleven or twelve letters and numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size, manufacturer's code, and week and year the tire was manufactured.

Today, the week and year the tire was manufactured is contained in the last four digits of the serial number, with the 2 digits used to identify the week a tire was manufactured immediately preceding the 2 digits used to identify the year.

http://www.pirelli.co.uk/en_GB/browser/attachments/images/Serial_Number.jpg

1. Means tyere meets or exceeds Departement of Transportation safety standards
2. Manufacturer and Plant Code Number (Assigned by DOT)
3. Tyre Size Code Number
4. Group of symbols determined by manufacturer
5. Week of manufacture

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/tiretech/sidewall_markings/sidewall_lg.gif

Pirelli Tyre Markings

http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/sg/en/car/genericPage/all_about_tyres.html

http://www.pirelli.com/mediaObject/pirellityre/ww/en/extra-catalogue/car/all_about_tyres/04_DOT_Safety_Standard_Codes/original/04_DOT_Safety_Standard_Codes.png

DOT = (Department Of Transportation) is a legal marking required in many countries in order to sell the tyres. DOT means the tyres meet or exceed the Department of Transportationâ€™s safety standards.

93 = Manufacturer and Plant Code Number (Assigned by DOT)

NU = Tyre Size Code Number

K653 = Group of Optional Symbols for the Manufacturer ( To identify the brand or other significant characteristics of the tyre)

4308 = Date of manufacture in (Week Week Year Year format); i.e. week 43 of year 2008

acknowledgement:

information extracted from the various websites mentioned above

Edited August 20, 2014 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · May 2, 2009

changing your rear tires? check this out... in case its the mechanic's first time changing for Silver Wing

step by step guide to changing the rear tyre...

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B3kN9jAjOzG1OGQ3OTM4YTUtZTc3ZS00NDFlLWFkMmQtNDA1MDkzYzkzYTBi&hl=en

acknowledgement:

this guide is adopted from SWing Forum (US) http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/forum_show.pl

additional info...

as the exhaust needs to be removed during the rear tyre-change process, make sure the mechanic mount it back the correct position at the "top bracket". otherwise, the exhaust will be outwards pointing at an angle instead of being flushed with the fore-n-aft of the bike.

Went to adjust back my SW exhaust, see the picture, the correct position of mounting our SW exhaust;

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/titaniclexus/pix.jpg

It should mount at back not infront (arrow position) like S4 or other class 2 bike mounting ..... sigh

Caution

Remember to ride with extra care over the first few hundred km, cos new tyres are very slippery and need some breaking in; lots of anecdotal evidence are available to support this caution.

Common theory is that new tyres are soaked with mold release agents (that's why they're usually oily and shiny) but that's something the manufacturers' deny.

The slippery surface on a new tyre is caused by 2 main reasons.
~When new, a tyre has a very smooth surface & in order to obtain maximum grip, the smooth surface needs to be 'scrubbed in'.
~Some manufacturers use 'releasing agents' when they make the tyres. These 'releasing agents' contain 'anti-ageing preservatives' which help to stop a tyre degrading whilst in storage. Releasing agents need to be scrubbed from a new tyres surface.
http://www.whitedogbikes.com/Motorcycle_Scooter_Tyre_Information.htm

this rider in the clip would tell you lots...

http://www.visordown.com/snippets/new-tyres-are-slippery-never-show-off/13360.html

believe it or not... better be safe than to be sorry

Edited March 29, 2012 by scoobydoo

SW9000 · May 10, 2009

For info.

If you ever encounter system recheck, time to take a look at the batteries.

http://www.silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1738

scoobydoo · May 18, 2009

the question of whether to use motor oil (aka engine oil) or gear oil for the final transmission/drive has been asked in many SW forums, including overseas ones.

the SW's service manual (not the owners' manual that comes with the bike) recommended 10w40 motor oil for final drive/reduction oil, something that is rather unusual to most mechanics/motortiams when you go for servicing. see below:

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/ManualFinaldriveoil_1.jpg?t=1293937673

nevertheless, there're also SW running on the usual #w70~90 gear oils but have yet to encounter problem with their gears yet... my guess is they haven't gone on long touring trips yet. local riding or "transport" riding is very different from touring trips which stress the gears over prolonged periods. running the SW at high speeds (e.g. 130km/h) over hundreds of km is definitely different from local riding.

but its still up to individual owners to decide

according to a SWinger's post (on US forum http://www.silverwing600.com/t1827-final-drive-oil-research?highlight=drive+oil#15521), his reasons for using gear oil are:

* viscosity of 75w90 gear oil and 10w30 motor oil are both approximately the same,

* the additives in gear oil are more suitable for gears.

well, that's what he claim... but does he know the SW better than those who designed it?

Motoroil has additives that keep wear and combustion particles in suspension to help prevent deposits (not a good thing for gears) and get them to the filter. They also have some additives which harm thrust washers in gear drives. ( I can't find that reference again)

Gear oil have a different additive package that is more conducive to the high pressure of meshing gears. they have EP additives to help it cling to gears when they mesh and not get squeezed out. Good thing.

personally, i strongly recommend to follow the honda SW service manual by using 10w40 4T motor oil (or w50 if using the brand's w40 is much less viscous) instead of gear oil for your final transmission/drive.

few questions to ponder about...

* if motor and gear oils are interchangeable as long as viscosity are similar, then why need to separate motor oil and gear oil?

* if gear oil is more suitable due to additives, why did honda specify the use of 10w40 motor oil?

why not to follow the manual and use 10w40 motor oil?

having paid to learn my lesson, i now do the 3-in-1 when doing my regular "5k kiasu 10w40 motor oil servicing", or after every long tour trips. i.e. change engine oil, oil filter and final transmission/drive oil altogether using 3 bottles of motor oil; using maxima extra 10w40 full synthetic oil as a matter of personal preference.

engine bay & filter needs abt 2.2L, drive bay needs 220~330ml, use some for "flushing" the bays and there'll be just a little left, which sometimes i don't bother to bring home.

symptoms of worn gears/bearings:

you can hear a rough or "grinding" noise from the rear drive area when bike is idling on main stand. rough noise disappears when you rotate the rear tire in the moving forward direction but becomes more audible when rotated in the reverse direction. throttle up and you can't hear a thing except the normal engine/exhaust and transmission noise

basically, something is loose or not meshing properly inside and the affected parts vibrates at a relatively lower frequency when bike is idling, causing the "garak garak" sound. sound is gone when drive shaft rotates (together with rear tire). maybe the movements of parts inside dampened the vibration, maybe vibration frequency increases and blends into the other noises, can't be sure.

changed: rear drive shaft, drive shaft lunar plate, 3x bearings, o-rings, oil seals, 10w40 4T oil... about $432 excluding workmanship

the stuffs... http://s692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/th_gearshaftrollerplates.jpg, lunar plate...http://s692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/th_lunarplate.jpg

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Miscellaneous/828dfb92.jpg

although there's no concrete proof that the gear shaft & bearings are "damaged" by the use of heavier oil, the breakdown just few weeks after changing to an 80w90 gear oil (premium brand) is a "coincidence" that cannot be neglected.

in case you wonder if my SW is the only one that encountered this problem, no! there're other SWinger that had to spend >500 to get their final transmission assembly repaired after touring with gear oil.

just sharing my pain so that other SWingers need not go through the same

Edited July 19, 2012 by scoobydoo

scoobydoo · June 10, 2009

Symbols for Spark Plugs

Honda Silverwing FJS 400 (Euro) owner's manual indicated that we can use the following spark plugs:

Denso:U22FER-9, U24FER-9

NGK: CR7EH-9,CR8EH-9

ever wonder what these symbols mean?

e.g. Denso U24FER-9

U = thread size 10mm, hex size 16mm

24 = heat rating 24 (9 hottest, 37 coldest)

FE = half thread 19mm (3/4" total reach)

R = resister type

9 = 0.9mm gap

thus, the U22FER-9 would be a relatively hotter plug

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/spec/index.html

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/densojpg.htm

Iridium equivalent = IUH-24 or IUH-24D (not stated in manual but cross referenced)

e.g. NGK CR8EH-9

C = 10mm, hex size 16mm or 5/8"

R = resister type

8 = heat rating 8 (2 hottest, 11 coldest)

EH = partial thread 19mm (3/4" total reach), 12.7mm (1/2" total reach)

9 = 0.9mm gap

thus, the CR7EH-9 would be a relatively hotter plug

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/ngkjpg.htm

Iridium equivalent = CR8EHIX-9 (not stated in manual but cross referenced)

acknowledgement:

information extracted from Denso, NGK and Spark plugs UK websites

Edited June 16, 2011 by scoobydoo

merz65 · June 29, 2009

time for new battey ..

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