"Need help rectifying this Problem"

[Ahys]

Ill try my best to explain. For pass 4 months ive been having this problem. My batt cant hold a stable voltage, for example after a long ride from east to west i park my bike with a voltage of 12v-12.5v. After parking my bike lets say around 8-11 hours my batt dies in the morning, even the voltmeter is not displaying anything. And i have to kick start for a few times(around 10-30kicks) before the bike wakes up. This problem come and go. Sometimes its stable sometimes its dead.

 

 

Fuse - checked

Batt - changed 2 months back

Spark plug - changed few days ago

 

Bike : Honda NSR 150 SP

 

 

*Note that i have a voltmeter plug straight to my batt and ground to a screw therefor my voltmeter is on 24/7. And i have this problem before and after i changed my batt.

 

So isit the rectifier? Coil? CDI? Or poor wiring to the batt? Or??

 

Help me out ya thanks.

[d0n]

why do u need the voltmeter on 24/7? try disconnecting the voltmeter and see if it solves the issue.

[naim]

yeah.. u shud connect ur voltmeter to ur ignition... so it only turns on wen ur key is turned on.. the voltmeter display 24/7 might be draining ur battery bit by bit.. also, check wat is the voltage wen ur engine is running.. idle shud be at least 12+... wen rev, shud be 13+.. those are the figures for a correctly functioning charging system..

[Ahys]

Previously the voltmeter was connected to my headlight and i was still getting this problem.

 

Stationary while idling w/o headlight - 12v -13v

Stationary while idling w headlight - 9v - 12v

On the go w headlight 11v - 13v

 

Had the same issue again while trying to start my bike just now after work.

12.4v when i left my bike, 9 hrs later batt dead again. Had kick start untill shagg X(

Theres something draining my battery.

 

Thanks for ur replies, any other solution?

[Hydher]

The voltmeter on for 24/7 is the issue of drainage.

 

When you are riding, whats the voltage?

[Ahys]

Riding with headlight on : 11v - 13v

 

When i had the voltmeter connected to my

headlight previously the draining of battery still occur.

 

Okok im going to reconnect the voltmeter to the ignition fuse tmr

And im gonna observe. Let u guys know again later.

[Hydher]

Your headlight should be on 24/7 in singapore fyi. I don think its healthy if it drops below 12v.

[kinwei]

It 2 different issue here. When your bike is kick start type, there is no need for battery at all. Meaning, even your battery is flat, you still can start the bike normally using kick start. It only those with electric start than will need the battery power. After kick start, your coil and rectifier will take over to provide the electricity power.

 

For your problem, I would say it has to do with engine issue. Usually old bikes have problem doing cold start. Have you try using choke to start? It can also be carburetor problem. Maybe you need some tuning to get the right air fuel mixture or maybe you need to wash the carb. Or maybe your plug is fouled? Go let your mechanic check.

[jayz]

i think u shld take out the voltmeter.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Ill try my best to explain. For pass 4 months ive been having this problem. My batt cant hold a stable voltage, for example after a long ride from east to west i park my bike with a voltage of 12v-12.5v. After parking my bike lets say around 8-11 hours my batt dies in the morning, even the voltmeter is not displaying anything. And i have to kick start for a few times(around 10-30kicks) before the bike wakes up. This problem come and go. Sometimes its stable sometimes its dead.

 

 

Fuse - checked

Batt - changed 2 months back

Spark plug - changed few days ago

 

Bike : Honda NSR 150 SP

 

 

*Note that i have a voltmeter plug straight to my batt and ground to a screw therefor my voltmeter is on 24/7. And i have this problem before and after i changed my batt.

 

So isit the rectifier? Coil? CDI? Or poor wiring to the batt? Or??

 

Help me out ya thanks.

 

First thing you need to check is that your battery is good. You need to do a dynamic load test and an open circuit test.

 

1) Fully charge the battery

2) Turn on headlight without engine on for 3 mins

3) turn off headlight and ignition, let battery sit 10mins

4) turn off all electrical loads to battery

5) read voltage across terminal

 

tell me your battery type (wet cell, dry cell) and I check the state of charge for you.

 

2nd do a dynamic load test. connect the voltmeter to the battery, and crank the engine. read the voltage when the engine is cranking (but before the engine fires). tell me what you see.

 

once that's done, check the parasitic drain on your battery with ignition and all loads off. remove negative battery cable, put the red probe on the negative battery cable, and black probe on negative battery post. tell me what you see.

 

a parasitic draw can mean a few things. some electrical device is drawing current even when ignition is off, one or more bad diodes in the rectifier allowing the battery to discharge through the rectifier, shorts to ground somewhere on the harness.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

One more thing, if you don't mind travelling to the north-east and leaving your battery with me (it might take some time depending on how badly discharged your batt is, if it's bad may take more than 8hrs), i have a smart charger and I'll check and charge the battery for you. Can help you do some testing on your bike also.

[ezzyoiler]

if the battery is changed recently...could be a charging problem..

[Ahys]

Thanks for all the replies bros.

 

Found out that the wire in the spark plug cap abit wear off and wasnt connected properly. As for the voltage problem, since my lighting all ok and i observe more on my voltmeter then whats infront of me, i decide to take the voltmeter out

[bobiee]

caution with all wear off wires bro , something can be happened more serious.