Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[robbedzombie]

Hey guys, Need suggestions from you.

 

My Bajaj Pulsar 180 has whine(hauling sound) in the 5th gear. The sound only appears in the 5th gear and no other gears. Also the sound only happens during acceleration and not during deceleration. The sound increases progressively with speed and starts the moment I shift into 5th gear and then exists upto the speed to 80km/hr. Above 80 the engine noise and wind noise take over and the gear whine is not audible.

 

The mechs say the 5th gear is worn out and will need overhaul the engine in order to fix the issue. But they also said that if I could live with the whine then its ok and I could continue riding and wont cause any further damage. There is no other noticable issue in performance or FC. So I have decided to just live with it.

 

Now, is it true that using a thicker viscosity engine oil reduces gear noises? The manual says my bike needs 20W50 oil. My question is if I try 10W60 oil will it reduce the gear whine? Will it cause any other damage? Any other suggestions on which oil to use?

 

Thanks in advance!

Revhappy!

 

i think the bike will feel damn heavy...

[Isopropyl]

Hey guys, Need suggestions from you.

 

My Bajaj Pulsar 180 has whine(hauling sound) in the 5th gear. The sound only appears in the 5th gear and no other gears. Also the sound only happens during acceleration and not during deceleration. The sound increases progressively with speed and starts the moment I shift into 5th gear and then exists upto the speed to 80km/hr. Above 80 the engine noise and wind noise take over and the gear whine is not audible.

 

The mechs say the 5th gear is worn out and will need overhaul the engine in order to fix the issue. But they also said that if I could live with the whine then its ok and I could continue riding and wont cause any further damage. There is no other noticable issue in performance or FC. So I have decided to just live with it.

 

Now, is it true that using a thicker viscosity engine oil reduces gear noises? The manual says my bike needs 20W50 oil. My question is if I try 10W60 oil will it reduce the gear whine? Will it cause any other damage? Any other suggestions on which oil to use?

 

Thanks in advance!

Revhappy!

 

I will take your mechanic words for it. Just carry on riding till you feel the problem is getting worst. Or you can seek a second mechanic advice for peace of mind.

 

As for using thicker oil, I won’t really recommend it. The engine is design to work with the stated viscosity. If you use thicker oil, it might not do it job as well. A 60wt oil is normally use for those air cooled V-twin Harley Davidson type of bike in hot climate. It will be too thick for most small bike.

[stsoh]

Revhappy!

since it is mechanical design fault, u can't do anything but repair it.

u can try royal purple max-cycle 20w-50 engine oil.

it may help better lubrication n reduce more wear but it's not a cure.

 

ps; don't buy the cheaper rp motor-oil which is for car use.

rp max-cycle 20w-50 eo is S$19.50 per one liter bottle.

[Isopropyl]

it seem RP is enjoying quite a reputation here.

 

in oversea forums, it is not common for it to be consider over-hyped.

[stsoh]

i dun think rp has a good reputation here in sg, almost unknown to all.

coz many mech dun have good knowledge about eo.

i have been to many bike shops to change eo, first words out of their mouth is saying black oil is bad n low quality oil.

sadly in sg, most mechs r lowly educated n not professional even in those highly reputable shops n agents.

[Isopropyl]

kind of true. once i went to change EO from a motortiam near my workplace. i was watching him pouring the EO and before i know, he empty the whole bottle. i was like did you just empty the whole bottle?!?! he reply back i should have let him know if i do not want to top up the full bottle. as a mech he should know what is the capacity the engine can take. there is a purpose why there is a maximum and minimum level. at least most mech will just top up 800-900ml for my bike. yet the best way is to slowly top up while using the dipstick to measure.

 

as for engine oil, changing it regulary is much important then what brand to use for most rider.

[stsoh]

all bottles r 1 qt vol., 1 qt = 0.9464 litre.

4-strokes 125cc bikes can take one qt without any problem, unless indicated otherwise in bike service manual.

two-strokes bikes gearbox normally requires 0.7 litre.

[Isopropyl]

all bottles r 1 qt vol., 1 qt = 0.9464 litre.

4-strokes 125cc bikes can take one qt without any problem, unless indicated otherwise in bike service manual.

two-strokes bikes gearbox normally requires 0.7 litre.

 

that time i was changing Motul 300V which was full Litre.

 

the engine capacity is 1.15litre. my bike need 800ml and 900ml if change with filter. after i start changing the oil myself even with filter change i found it only need about 800ml to reach the maximum level. having a bit extra should be fine but best to avoid.

 

i used EO Motul 300V, Amsoil, Castrol, Idemitsu, Chex 9000, Carlube etc. now i just stick with HDEO. cheap, good and lasting.

[stsoh]

oil level more than max is bad for the engine.

breather r designed to prevent piston/crank pressurized or vacuumed.

make sure eo is not overly filled, just above the max level doesn't seem to cause any harm.

overly filled can cause crankcase to crack or burst due to hydraulic lock when piston(s) move up n down.

 

hdeo chemical design for slow speed diesel (1k~5k max rpm), not for bike use.

just make sure u warm up your bike longer than norm b4 moving off.

reason is need to heat up the oil to operation temperature.

mainly parts wear the most when startup engine due to metal2metal contacts b4 oil arrive to lub.

Edited May 18, 2011 by stsoh

[naim]

bro Isopropyl.. i have joined the HDEO gang! haha.. changed the EO in my phantom to Delvac MX.. was really praying hard nothing bad happens honestly.. haha!

 

but guess wat! 400km on, and it feels like the best EO my bike has used... clutch feel is great, if not better than the Bel-Ray semi i used to have.. vibration much lesser, cold starts are easier, and this might just be psychological, but bike feels a little lighter.. maybe cux its 15w40 weight? thinner than the 15w50 Bel-ray i used to have...

 

it seems to cope with the hi-temps of the phantoms air-cooled engine well.. most EOs i used just "disappears" due to the temps.. i check regularly (every 2 days?) and its been abt 2 weeks, and no drop in EO level at all.. and its so cheap, i dont mind changing every month!

 

btw, regarding the HDEO use in bike engine, im pretty sure as long as the clutch is fine, it shouldn't have any other issues. in the army, we use Shell Rimula R3X (a malaysian cup-kia bike favourite!) in the engine and automatic tranny (wet clutch) in the vehicles.. they involve even bigger gears, higher temps and higher shear forces and they hold up fine.. nv heard of the vehicles with engine/tranny issues..

[Isopropyl]

oil level more than max is bad for the engine.

breather r designed to prevent piston/crank pressurized or vacuumed.

make sure eo is not overly filled, just above the max level doesn't seem to cause any harm.

overly filled can cause crankcase to crack or burst due to hydraulic lock when piston(s) move up n down.

 

hdeo chemical design for slow speed diesel (1k~5k max rpm), not for bike use.

just make sure u warm up your bike longer than norm b4 moving off.

reason is need to heat up the oil to operation temperature.

mainly parts wear the most when startup engine due to metal2metal contacts b4 oil arrive to lub.

 

HDEO is approve for gasoline engine too:)

 

it often SL or SM approved depending whether it is CI-4 or CJ-4:) same rating as any motorcycle specific oil. while PCMO which is SM rated is often only CD or CF rated for Diesel engine. HDEO is simply a much more robust oil. there is no reason why it can't be use in high-rpm engine.

 

all oil need warm up period. just that synthetic will need a shorter time due to higher viscosity index. personally i don't think long idle time is needed to warm up the engine. i just let it idle while i putting on my helmet, gloves and jacket. after that i take it easy for a couple of kilometer. there is no evidence that long idle time will be better. some studies i read even in countries that experience winter, they found long idle time have no additional benefit and just a waste of fuel.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

bro Isopropyl.. i have joined the HDEO gang! haha.. changed the EO in my phantom to Delvac MX.. was really praying hard nothing bad happens honestly.. haha!

 

but guess wat! 400km on, and it feels like the best EO my bike has used... clutch feel is great, if not better than the Bel-Ray semi i used to have.. vibration much lesser, cold starts are easier, and this might just be psychological, but bike feels a little lighter.. maybe cux its 15w40 weight? thinner than the 15w50 Bel-ray i used to have...

 

it seems to cope with the hi-temps of the phantoms air-cooled engine well.. most EOs i used just "disappears" due to the temps.. i check regularly (every 2 days?) and its been abt 2 weeks, and no drop in EO level at all.. and its so cheap, i dont mind changing every month!

 

btw, regarding the HDEO use in bike engine, im pretty sure as long as the clutch is fine, it shouldn't have any other issues. in the army, we use Shell Rimula R3X (a malaysian cup-kia bike favourite!) in the engine and automatic tranny (wet clutch) in the vehicles.. they involve even bigger gears, higher temps and higher shear forces and they hold up fine.. nv heard of the vehicles with engine/tranny issues..

 

last year when I brought up HDEO in the Phantom Knights forums it was met with the typical 'be prepared to overhaul your engine shortly' comments from a certain few people.

 

Lol!

 

Sent from my hong kong gangsta phone using Tapatalk

[Isopropyl]

bro Isopropyl.. i have joined the HDEO gang! haha.. changed the EO in my phantom to Delvac MX.. was really praying hard nothing bad happens honestly.. haha!

 

but guess wat! 400km on, and it feels like the best EO my bike has used... clutch feel is great, if not better than the Bel-Ray semi i used to have.. vibration much lesser, cold starts are easier, and this might just be psychological, but bike feels a little lighter.. maybe cux its 15w40 weight? thinner than the 15w50 Bel-ray i used to have...

 

it seems to cope with the hi-temps of the phantoms air-cooled engine well.. most EOs i used just "disappears" due to the temps.. i check regularly (every 2 days?) and its been abt 2 weeks, and no drop in EO level at all.. and its so cheap, i dont mind changing every month!

 

btw, regarding the HDEO use in bike engine, im pretty sure as long as the clutch is fine, it shouldn't have any other issues. in the army, we use Shell Rimula R3X (a malaysian cup-kia bike favourite!) in the engine and automatic tranny (wet clutch) in the vehicles.. they involve even bigger gears, higher temps and higher shear forces and they hold up fine.. nv heard of the vehicles with engine/tranny issues..

 

welcome to the club my friend!!! don't worry. HDEO is totally fine for wet clutches. Delvac MX is allison C4 approved which mean it is suitable for wet clutches so you can pray hard for other more important things

 

HDEO is not only cheap but offer excellent protection to your engine. it hold up it viscosity much better then many of those 10W40 EO out there. so change it at the same interval as you have done in the past with other oil should be fine. all new oil will feel better in the beginning. the good thing of HDEO as you mention is cheap. you can have new oil more often if you desire.

 

sadly, i heard that the price of Delvac MX had increased in malaysia. 1L is now RM20 and 5L is RM80 from what i read. getting a 5L bottle is going to to be great value compare to other EO.

[naim]

last year when I brought up HDEO in the Phantom Knights forums it was met with the typical 'be prepared to overhaul your engine shortly' comments from a certain few people.

 

Lol!

 

Sent from my hong kong gangsta phone using Tapatalk

 

well.. i guess some people just like to play it safe and scared to explore things out-of-the-norm... for me, i trust my research... if it benefits me, why not? i love to play around wif these kind of things anyway.. if it doesnt work out, too bad, change clutch lor.. if it does, i gain sum knowledge and smiles!

 

overhaul? i only expect that to happen if the engine seizes.. and honestly.. i dont see why it could happen.. even the cheapest most basic mineral oil can prevent that if the oil level is kept to the required amounts..only issue i foresee is if the oil doesnt get changed often and build-ups inside might cause issues..

[Isopropyl]

well.. i guess some people just like to play it safe and scared to explore things out-of-the-norm... for me, i trust my research... if it benefits me, why not? i love to play around wif these kind of things anyway.. if it doesnt work out, too bad, change clutch lor.. if it does, i gain sum knowledge and smiles!

 

overhaul? i only expect that to happen if the engine seizes.. and honestly.. i dont see why it could happen.. even the cheapest most basic mineral oil can prevent that if the oil level is kept to the required amounts..only issue i foresee is if the oil doesnt get changed often and build-ups inside might cause issues..

 

taking calculated risk might not be a bad thing. whether sucess or not, you tend to gain something.

 

while learning to DIY, i killed a chain, rounded a few of bolts and nuts and almost screwed out the engine temperature probe which i mistaken as spark plug. tunning the engine air/fuel and idle RPM screws caused me to change the spark plug, engine oil and air filter way before there is a need to as i trying to determine what cause my engine to stall easily which i fail to link it to the idle RPMo_O

 

but well, at least i learn what not to do next time it kind of fun.

[Tachnicolour]

Anyone have any idea where to get AMSOIL oil filters? Specifically the ones for Suzuki twist-ons. 109.

[pikapika]

anyone seen or know where to buy idemitsu engine oil? been using it since i won it and its great. anyone know the cost also for the semi sync touring 4t?

[tatkim76]

UUUpppppsss

[plasticprison]

I have to say i'm quite disappointed with maxima ultra 5w50.

 

i've changed it at planet a couple of months ago. My bike is only used as transport to school, 2nd link petrol runs and a couple of trips up north and clocked about 3000km since then. Initial feel was good. very smooth, but i noticed that its becoming rough just at about 3000km of used. this oil did not last as long as expected.

 

i'll probably try amsoil since it gets good reviews overseas. motul 300v price is getting way too ridiculous these days.

[Tachnicolour]

I have to say i'm quite disappointed with maxima ultra 5w50.

 

i've changed it at planet a couple of months ago. My bike is only used as transport to school, 2nd link petrol runs and a couple of trips up north and clocked about 3000km since then. Initial feel was good. very smooth, but i noticed that its becoming rough just at about 3000km of used. this oil did not last as long as expected.

 

i'll probably try amsoil since it gets good reviews overseas. motul 300v price is getting way too ridiculous these days.

 

Pretty much the same experience for me here. Was on Maxima Extra 10W40. Good till 3k+ km, then started feeling clunky and engine sounded distinctly rougher. Likewise, usage the same, ride to school (when still schooling in the west), 2nd link petrol runs and generally well-behaved riding, no excessive revving.

 

No clue why I stuck to Maxima even till now. Finally gave up on it. Just changed to Amsoil MCF, gonna see how long this one feels butter smooth.

[plasticprison]

Pretty much the same experience for me here. Was on Maxima Extra 10W40. Good till 3k+ km, then started feeling clunky and engine sounded distinctly rougher. Likewise, usage the same, ride to school (when still schooling in the west), 2nd link petrol runs and generally well-behaved riding, no excessive revving.

 

No clue why I stuck to Maxima even till now. Finally gave up on it. Just changed to Amsoil MCF, gonna see how long this one feels butter smooth.

 

oh hey bro. how's the amsoil working out for you? they claim that their oil can be used for extended drain intervals. where did you get it from anyway? or should i buy from mxtradings and bring over to ah chong to change.

[Tachnicolour]

oh hey bro. how's the amsoil working out for you? they claim that their oil can be used for extended drain intervals. where did you get it from anyway? or should i buy from mxtradings and bring over to ah chong to change.

 

So far, pretty slick gear shifts, which can be expected from relatively new oil. Sounds odd, but it seems to have made my clutch 'grabbier'. Like as if the friction zone aka biting point is narrower. Let out a little clutch and it engages fully, which led me to bog down the engine when moving off from traffic lights at first. Other than that, silent sounding engine.

 

Yep, their oils can be used for extended OCI, but if I'm not wrong, they stated that it's when using their oil filter(prolly marketing gimmick). Can't seem to find amsoil oil filters locally, was thinking of ordering, but shipping cost is stupid. Figured that I'd just change it at normal intervals even though I know it can last longer. Prefer the slick feel of new oil. And DIY is therapy, haha.

 

Aye, bought at MXtradings. There's an oil-dump drum there as well. Though, with planet so nearby, might as well just go over let them change.

[revhappy]

The manual of my bajaj pulsar 180 says I need to fill 1L of oil and it has a dipstick. Last time I when I changed oil, I made sure the old oil drains out completely by waiting for like 5 mins and bending the bike both sides and then filled 1 bottle of Chex. But couple of days after filling I notice that the oil is below the min mark on the dip stick. I have followed the correct procedure of measuring, i.e. put bike on mainstand, front tyre touching ground on a level surface and dip stick not screwed in, yet below minimum. Wierd.

[kinwei]

I've used both the Amsoil motorcycle and car full syn for my bikes. All changed at 8k km with no issue. However I noticed the car version get slightly rough at 8k mark. The motorcycle version still slick. Pls note the car version I used is suitable for wet clutch.

[plasticprison]

i gotta give amsoil a try then. i'm already using it in my car and i'm quite happy with it. hopefully the motorcycle version will be as good also.

 

anyway. what's the typical labour charge from bike shops if you ask them to change for you? assuming i buy the oil filter from them.