Honda NSR150SP Riders

[guangwei]

Hi all, Wanna ask something, been riding my SP for almost half a year since buying from a buyer who had it for a year, spent a lump sum on repairing since previous owner didn't take care of the bike before I took over from him. Is there a need to do anything to the internals of the bike like the engine and gearbox? Feels fine to me when riding although I don't really know how a good condition sp should feel like in the first place. Cause wanna save the money on changing the harness and brake rotors instead.

 

bring it to some known trusted mechanic and ask him.

dont ask forumer who didnt even saw ur bikes before lol

[jbdoggy]

Regarding the subject of exhaust sounding empty: I went to lorong bapok/ah gua lane to decarbonise my exhaust. Now after all the carbon & 2t residue heated up & blown out, my exhaust feels very light & empty. Sound is a bit louder & more metallic esp at the 4.5k-5.5k rev range where previously i said sounded like machine gun. So could it be that its a normal thing for a cleaned out exhaust??

 

Anyway the cost to decarbonise belly is rm48 & endcan is rm 28. Done at X Performance Motors. They also sell Motul Transoil Expert Rm58. 15 teeth front & 39 teeth rear sprockets & chain set i saw was rm115. http://www.xperformancemotor.com.my

[FireGunz]

Regarding the subject of exhaust sounding empty: I went to lorong bapok/ah gua lane to decarbonise my exhaust. Now after all the carbon & 2t residue heated up & blown out, my exhaust feels very light & empty. Sound is a bit louder & more metallic esp at the 4.5k-5.5k rev range where previously i said sounded like machine gun. So could it be that its a normal thing for a cleaned out exhaust??

 

Anyway the cost to decarbonise belly is rm48 & endcan is rm 28. Done at X Performance Motors. They also sell Motul Transoil Expert Rm58. 15 teeth front & 39 teeth rear sprockets & chain set i saw was rm115. http://www.xperformancemotor.com.my

Wow... thank for the info. Bro.

If got chance, also wanted to join you go there too for the above...

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Edited January 27, 2016 by FireGunz

[Sethyeo]

lol ok thanks for the advice...

[Heathx]

Hi all, Wanna ask something, been riding my SP for almost half a year since buying from a buyer who had it for a year, spent a lump sum on repairing since previous owner didn't take care of the bike before I took over from him. Is there a need to do anything to the internals of the bike like the engine and gearbox? Feels fine to me when riding although I don't really know how a good condition sp should feel like in the first place. Cause wanna save the money on changing the harness and brake rotors instead.

 

Yo Seth... For internals, if you have spare cash lying around and you have not done anything to engine or gear box yet, perhaps, you can do a full servicing. Basically to open them up, clean them up and check for any problems. If nothing, then good, can continue riding with ease of mind. Not necessary to change out if nothing wrong, but servicing at least once a year is good.

 

I did a full overhaul before for my SP. Replaced the crankshaft and a couple of gears that were burnt out, as well as some other minor things. The difference is not really noticeable at low speed and rev (aka singapore riding), but at speeds of 160+ kmph, can feel it's less vibration and sounds much more reassuring. The main difference btn good conditioned and not so good conditioned is which can work under stress. So if don't stress enough, also won't know unless open up to see.

[rimau]

Regarding the subject of exhaust sounding empty: I went to lorong bapok/ah gua lane to decarbonise my exhaust. Now after all the carbon & 2t residue heated up & blown out, my exhaust feels very light & empty. Sound is a bit louder & more metallic esp at the 4.5k-5.5k rev range where previously i said sounded like machine gun. So could it be that its a normal thing for a cleaned out exhaust??

 

Anyway the cost to decarbonise belly is rm48 & endcan is rm 28. Done at X Performance Motors. They also sell Motul Transoil Expert Rm58. 15 teeth front & 39 teeth rear sprockets & chain set i saw was rm115. http://www.xperformancemotor.com.my

 

thanks for sharing...

 

BTW, which method did they do? The cut-up & burn, or just burn the exhaust??

Do they apply any paint over it after that??

How long is the whole procedure??

[Sethyeo]

Yo Seth... For internals, if you have spare cash lying around and you have not done anything to engine or gear box yet, perhaps, you can do a full servicing. Basically to open them up, clean them up and check for any problems. If nothing, then good, can continue riding with ease of mind. Not necessary to change out if nothing wrong, but servicing at least once a year is good.

 

I did a full overhaul before for my SP. Replaced the crankshaft and a couple of gears that were burnt out, as well as some other minor things. The difference is not really noticeable at low speed and rev (aka singapore riding), but at speeds of 160+ kmph, can feel it's less vibration and sounds much more reassuring. The main difference btn good conditioned and not so good conditioned is which can work under stress. So if don't stress enough, also won't know unless open up to see.

 

Hi, Thanks for the advice as always. Learning from you in a lot of ways. my worries now is that once mech open up, if things not in good condition then will cost me a bomb. Anyway will try to do a full servicing if possible after changing xternal parts.

[Heathx]

Hi, Thanks for the advice as always. Learning from you in a lot of ways. my worries now is that once mech open up, if things not in good condition then will cost me a bomb. Anyway will try to do a full servicing if possible after changing xternal parts.

 

My advice is to save up for the full servicing, set aside a couple of hundreds in case engine parts need replacement. If in the case you go to Ah Heng, i'm sure he won't ask you to change out anything if it's still working properly. He will give you an honest assessment of the parts if you ask. 70% condition, but can work properly still, he will tell you can work, no need change if you're tight on cash, example like gear tooth a bit blackish and worn, but not chao ta or chipped yet. If die die must change cos part spoilt and it causes danger, he will tell you also, example like piston or ring got a chip, can lead to piston jam.

 

Don't need to go open now for diagnosing if you don't have the cash. Otherwise open now, find problem but no fix, close up, then next time open up again to fix, you will be paying 2 x labour costs. Might as well save up enough, go diagnose and replace parts if needed during the servicing, then one time settle everything. Hope this helps.

[Sethyeo]

My advice is to save up for the full servicing, set aside a couple of hundreds in case engine parts need replacement. If in the case you go to Ah Heng, i'm sure he won't ask you to change out anything if it's still working properly. He will give you an honest assessment of the parts if you ask. 70% condition, but can work properly still, he will tell you can work, no need change if you're tight on cash, example like gear tooth a bit blackish and worn, but not chao ta or chipped yet. If die die must change cos part spoilt and it causes danger, he will tell you also, example like piston or ring got a chip, can lead to piston jam.

 

Don't need to go open now for diagnosing if you don't have the cash. Otherwise open now, find problem but no fix, close up, then next time open up again to fix, you will be paying 2 x labour costs. Might as well save up enough, go diagnose and replace parts if needed during the servicing, then one time settle everything. Hope this helps.

 

Most likely going to find Ah Heng, cause I know he is honest. But not any time soon will do full servicing since like you said, need to prepare money first. Thanks for the advice.=D

[jbdoggy]

thanks for sharing...

 

BTW, which method did they do? The cut-up & burn, or just burn the exhaust??

Do they apply any paint over it after that??

How long is the whole procedure??

 

They will separate the belly & the endcan 1st. Then they will heat up the belly until red hot starting from the neck while blowing in compressed air. They will heat up portion by portion until the end. The component is considered clean when no more smoke/soot comes out.... but a flame. Same with endcan.

 

Once the belly has cooled down, it will be sandpapered & resprayed black. Its correct if they let it cool down naturally. The 1st time i did it else where, they cooled it down by pouring water (yikes!!) That only spoils the steel, making it brittle.

 

For endcan they will blow the flame inside at the nozzle side. Another guy will pour water on the chrome portion to prevent the chrome plate from warping. same thing... its clean when a flame appears at the other end.

 

Whole operation 1hr plus inclusive of dismantling & reinstalling exhaust pipe & fairings. X performance opens from 4pm to 4am. Mon off.

Edited January 6, 2016 by jbdoggy

[rimau]

They will separate the belly & the endcan 1st. Then they will heat up the belly until red hot starting from the neck while blowing in compressed air. They will heat up portion by portion until the end. The component is considered clean when no more smoke/soot comes out.... but a flame. Same with endcan.

 

Once the belly has cooled down, it will be sandpapered & resprayed black. Its correct if they let it cool down naturally. The 1st time i did it else where, they cooled it down by pouring water (yikes!!) That only spoils the steel, making it brittle.

 

For endcan they will blow the flame inside at the nozzle side. Another guy will pour water on the chrome portion to prevent the chrome plate from warping. same thing... its clean when a flame appears at the other end.

 

Whole operation 1hr plus inclusive of dismantling & reinstalling exhaust pipe & fairings. X performance opens from 4pm to 4am. Mon off.

 

Thanks again...

 

Regarding the painting, do you have any problem with LTA during the inspection? Coz heard some cases where painting or even wrapping the exhaust is not allowed..

[jbdoggy]

Thanks again...

 

Regarding the painting, do you have any problem with LTA during the inspection? Coz heard some cases where painting or even wrapping the exhaust is not allowed..

 

My inspection was last august. No comment abt my black coloured exhaust. Jus my smoke emission! Anyway the exhaust has to be repainted to protect it from rusting. Exposed steel you see.

 

I think the main thing is that you have a stock exhaust. I would love to have a tyga exhaust, but not sure if its legal. Been researching around and have conflicting opinions. Some say tyga & arrow is legal. Some say only stock is legal.

 

I went to vicom kaki bukit.

[wait4me]

tyga not legal ,

if not many past sp riders would have put it le ,

jus like 2 brothers exhust on a RVF

arrow i though is for rs125 only?

[Heathx]

For sure, SP only stock pipe and endcan is legal. And LTA rules strictly mention that both cannot be emptied. Want to do anything funny, don't get caught can already. Hahahaha...

[rimau]

My inspection was last august. No comment abt my black coloured exhaust. Jus my smoke emission! Anyway the exhaust has to be repainted to protect it from rusting. Exposed steel you see.

 

I think the main thing is that you have a stock exhaust. I would love to have a tyga exhaust, but not sure if its legal. Been researching around and have conflicting opinions. Some say tyga & arrow is legal. Some say only stock is legal.

 

I went to vicom kaki bukit.

 

oops... sorry if I've misled you... my ride... phantom, the 2 stroker...

We have the same engine... although the exhaust is different, I'm actually only referring to the decarbonizing process...

 

I've seen a workshop doing the cut-up (& scrape) & burn method on a RXZ exhaust.. It was cut into 3 pcs, & after welding back, the weld lines were grinded smooth & the whole thing painted after that.. It looks nice and I think its cleaner but my reservation is with our LTA..

All the jobs they do will need the cutting, that's why I don't dare to do there..

 

Perhaps, I'll try the one you mentioned... thanks..

[FireGunz]

Most likely then, the issue is your suspension soft and cause your tyres to rub against your bike bottom when it compressed, like what sporeknight said. From memory, i think SP max laden weight is about 160 or 180kg.

 

Suspension, there are a few choices. New stock suspension is about 450-500+. I heard can use a KRR150 shock, but must fit upside down. There are also other choices like YSS. Don't get Combiz though. The $100+ model broke for me, and i'm 65kg. Go for a 120/70 tyre for rear if you can as well.

 

Hi Seniors, does anyone change the rear suspension "KYB" brand or YSS before?

 

As this below YSS got the w/cylinder (what that for?)

http://chongaik.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2032

 

It seem the YSS (without Cylinder) is much more soft then KYB... http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387426

 

For SP, YSS is kinda like the go to brand for suspension. There are others like racing boy and combiz also. YSS review, some people say good, 2 yrs also no problem, some people say 6 mths leak oil leak gas. Racing boy some say too stiff, some say good... Combiz some say good, mine broken after 3 months of normal road riding. Combiz also got $400 version and $100+ version (which i bought from LAB). If you want to get YSS, you can pm me, i know a guy can get his hands on 100% authentic YSS suspensions for SP, not sure price though, think $200+?

 

Hi Heathx, about the guys (YSS) you mentioned is Ah Heng?

 

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Edited January 24, 2016 by FireGunz

[Heathx]

Hi Heathx, about the guys (YSS) you mentioned is Ah Heng?

 

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Nope, not Ah Heng. I pm you.

[FireGunz]

Nope, not Ah Heng. I pm you.

Thank.

 

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[FireGunz]

how to identify a genuine yss rear shock.

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297029

 

Between The Fake And The Genuine (parts And Accessories)

http://www.yamahat135.com/threads/between-the-fake-and-the-genuine-parts-and-accessories.13449/

 

About the YSS suspension

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/showthread.php?t=47985

 

Beware KYB [KaYaBa] shock knock off (think might not relate)

http://www.trinituner.com/v3/forums/viewtopic.php?t=379211

 

What Is The Difference Between OEM And Aftermarket (small info)

http://www.nairaland.com/996210/what-difference-between-oem-aftermarket

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Edited January 27, 2016 by FireGunz

[blisten]

Hi guys. im a new rider and got my bike a few months ago. Having prob starting my bike now.. So hope u guys can help me out..

 

Basically when i first got the bike can start one time. However after i changed my conrod, eng bearings and piston set, always have prob starting. always have to on choke. So recently just did servicing for my carb, changed main jet to 142 or 147 from 152 if not wrong, changed sparkplug to ngk gpower.

 

Still no diff.. btw when on my choke rpm will only raise to 2k rpm only..

 

Hoping u guys can help me out..

[Heathx]

Hi guys. im a new rider and got my bike a few months ago. Having prob starting my bike now.. So hope u guys can help me out..

 

Basically when i first got the bike can start one time. However after i changed my conrod, eng bearings and piston set, always have prob starting. always have to on choke. So recently just did servicing for my carb, changed main jet to 142 or 147 from 152 if not wrong, changed sparkplug to ngk gpower.

 

Still no diff.. btw when on my choke rpm will only raise to 2k rpm only..

 

Hoping u guys can help me out..

 

I believe is your carburetor settings. It will probably help to get someone experienced to help you tune the carb. Unfortunately, my tuning is done by my mech in the past, so i can't really help you personally. Usually problem starting bike is due to fuel mixture in carb is too rich with fuel.

 

Also, if you changed jets without retuning the carb, it can also cause issues.

[blisten]

Can i understand more by the term 'tune carb'?

 

did told the mech to do it.. What he did was took a test ride before deciding to change the main jet to a smaller one. told me the same thing about fuel too rich thats why hard to start. told me smaller jet would restrict the flow so easier to start and i can reach 11,000 rpm with this new small jet. previously it was just 10k.

 

However with this new change, choke still remains the same. will only rise to 2k..

[frslims]

Can i understand more by the term 'tune carb'?

 

did told the mech to do it.. What he did was took a test ride before deciding to change the main jet to a smaller one. told me the same thing about fuel too rich thats why hard to start. told me smaller jet would restrict the flow so easier to start and i can reach 11,000 rpm with this new small jet. previously it was just 10k.

 

However with this new change, choke still remains the same. will only rise to 2k..

That symptoms normally you need to increase your pilot jet not main jet.

 

Main jet is used for med and high rpm.

 

 

 

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[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, i had measures the volt at the battery.

 

1. Bike in turn "Off" ignitor & measure the battery volt is 12+ (below 13v).

 

2. When turn on the ignitor But without started the bike & measure the battery volt is 12+ (below 13v).

 

3. After started the bike w/o blip throttle is 14+ above (below 16v)

 

4. After started the bike & blip throttle is 16+ above.

 

5. Just noticed (it seem weird) that there is 1 cable connect directly from the battery "positive" to the rectifier connector (which there is 6 wire) but base on the manual diagram it should be 5 wire.

 

So it should be the rectifier issue. Right? Also what happen if that direct cable connection from battery to rectifier?

 

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[blisten]

That symptoms normally you need to increase your pilot jet not main jet.

 

Main jet is used for med and high rpm.

 

 

 

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Thanks. So whats the optimal size for pilot jet? not sure bout mine.

 

Btw for stock cdi whats the normal rpm cut? is it 13k rpm? and how do i increase it from 11k rpm?