Honda NSR150SP Riders

[fengs]

Hi guys I'm scraping my nsr150rr soon if anyone keen to buy any parts let me know.

1) stock footrest

2) balancer

3) fairings

4) carb

5) airbox

6) endcan

I'm quite inactive in the forum so It you're interested in anything

Feel free to contact me @ 9223191one

[wait4me]

buay pai , 6 years joined date , but first post

[furyx]

Hi everyone, need a help. I am riding an SP, took over from my cousin. Bike running good and stuff, only issue is that, If I stop in gear 1, I can't kick up to neutral. I have to kick to neutral before stopping, sometimes abit hard to kick up to higher gears too. My clutch is abit loose and biting point is very near, once slightly let go is biting point alr. I went to a bike shop near SSDC, followed my cousin. Mechanic named Yan, told me the hub thingy need replace and would cost 600. I asked other ppl, they said it's clutch plate. Any advice? btw mechanic didn't open up my bike to check, just rode around and test. Pls advice, thanks.

[jbdoggy]

Hi everyone, need a help. I am riding an SP, took over from my cousin. Bike running good and stuff, only issue is that, If I stop in gear 1, I can't kick up to neutral. I have to kick to neutral before stopping, sometimes abit hard to kick up to higher gears too. My clutch is abit loose and biting point is very near, once slightly let go is biting point alr. I went to a bike shop near SSDC, followed my cousin. Mechanic named Yan, told me the hub thingy need replace and would cost 600. I asked other ppl, they said it's clutch plate. Any advice? btw mechanic didn't open up my bike to check, just rode around and test. Pls advice, thanks.

 

Hard to get neutral?? When was last time you changed oil? If oil still new & still cannot try blipping throttle a bit & kick up. Or make a small forward movement & kick to neutral. Shld be ok

 

I used to hv same problems as you before. Main problem is gear will get jammed. Cant kick up to 2nd unless pump clutch or something. Mech said clutch plate stuck & loosened clutch cable. But didnt help very much. As I was getting freaking fedup of rolling the bike forwards to get neutral, so in the end I went to JB. Tai Seng Kooi Motorsports. Mr Tai also said clutch plates stuck. He changed the clutch plates & everything ok after that.

 

The most expensive part was the clutch springs. He said my springs gone soft so changed new springs. 4 springs was Rm200+. So now my clutch heavier then cdc 2a bike clutch...haha. A bit xiong if traffic jam on uphill slope!

 

If not wrong the whole operation was abt Rm800+ - 6 clutch plates, clutch springs, gaskets, oil, coolant, chain (kinky) & rear tyre (botak). So if only clutch operations shld be in the region of Rm500-600.

[jasper92]

Hi everyone, need a help. I am riding an SP, took over from my cousin. Bike running good and stuff, only issue is that, If I stop in gear 1, I can't kick up to neutral. I have to kick to neutral before stopping, sometimes abit hard to kick up to higher gears too. My clutch is abit loose and biting point is very near, once slightly let go is biting point alr. I went to a bike shop near SSDC, followed my cousin. Mechanic named Yan, told me the hub thingy need replace and would cost 600. I asked other ppl, they said it's clutch plate. Any advice? btw mechanic didn't open up my bike to check, just rode around and test. Pls advice, thanks.

 

Gear 1 and difficulty to go Neutral i experience before, just change the biting point yourself in the carpark till u feel comfortable if you know how. If not go youtube learn, last choice ask mech do. For the time being if at traffic light u can try go Gear 1, Off engine, On Engine, Kick to Neutral, then kick start bike. Or u can always hold the clutch forever at red light HAHA.

No idea what hub thingy is, only know clutch housing. When clutch in suddenly bike become very quiet and no more knocking sound means clutch housing loose. I bought my clutch housing from thailand 180$SGD.

Above my 2cents worth from 8months with my sp.

[furyx]

If engine running, you can't even kick up the gear, unless you are on the move. But now I'm used to kicking to neutral before stopping but would like to get this issue fixed. Also even when I full clutch in, it's as though like biting point. The bike will slowly move. I changed clutch cable and engine oil on 2nd dec. My clutch is also like very loose, dangling.

[ex__rider]

Hi. How do I create thread in used bike section? Have a 150SP, FQ plate for sale, COE renewable. Anyone keen, PM me. Thx

[ex__rider]

Hi everyone, need a help. I am riding an SP, took over from my cousin. Bike running good and stuff, only issue is that, If I stop in gear 1, I can't kick up to neutral. I have to kick to neutral before stopping, sometimes abit hard to kick up to higher gears too. My clutch is abit loose and biting point is very near, once slightly let go is biting point alr. I went to a bike shop near SSDC, followed my cousin. Mechanic named Yan, told me the hub thingy need replace and would cost 600. I asked other ppl, they said it's clutch plate. Any advice? btw mechanic didn't open up my bike to check, just rode around and test. Pls advice, thanks.

 

 

 

Did u change engine oil?

[ex__rider]

Hi All, help needed. Im unable to kickstart my bike. Condition: managed to kickstart the engine once, but engine will die off less than a min even though on choke. And unable to kickstart thereafter. Aside, the neutral light is dimmed or black out when i attempt to on the headlight. Is it battery flat or overflow carb?

 

Likely is battery. Get it to the WS asap. You don't want ride half way the engine died. Happened to me. Change new battery and resolved the issue.

[ex__rider]

Hi everyone, currently still taking license. going L7 tmr, if pass can book TP. I currently reserved a SP, it was good deal. 3k coe quite long. I can't immediately take over as next month I enlisting for ns. Seller is able to reserve for me until close to end of year with deposit and can do black and white, firstly what should be written in paper so that in any case of the seller running away with money or selling to someone else? and how much should be the deposit? what's on my mind is that, I wish to deposit a certain amount and before taking over ask one of my seasoned riding friends or a mechanic to check to see if everything okay and from there nego if possible. Any advice? I would like to reserve it as the other SPs on the market are either short COE or too ex.

 

 

 

There will always be bikes around. Don't gun cheong lah. Settle ur NS first. Ride can wait.

[wait4me]

Hi. How do I create thread in used bike section? Have a 150SP, FQ plate for sale, COE renewable. Anyone keen, PM me. Thx

 

u have not meet a minium criteria to post

so please spam your messages

[ex__rider]

u have not meet a minium criteria to post

so please spam your messages

 

Thanks. Will do

[ex__rider]

Some members said they have difficulty finding neutral and the kicking feels "dry", try go servicing, change engine oil, should resolve most complaints.

[ex__rider]

Not sure how many of you here encounter pranksters turned off the engine switch or the fuel pump (below your tank)?

[ex__rider]

Where is the best place to do overhaul which includes the engine as well?

 

brand block and pistons cost 500-600, iirc.

Fairing complete set is about 400.

tyres, one pair is 250.

 

About 2000?

[ex__rider]

i never pour 2t into oil tank in singapore riding or even running in .

i only pour for very long trips

 

I did a top overhaul and asked the boss of the WS about running in. He laughed it off and said that running in for NSR150SP is not necessary.

[ex__rider]

It's really up to you. I've also heard some SP riders have the mindset that just take the bike and ride, no need change engine oil, no need servicing, tyre also ride until botak then change, ride until engine piang then overhaul, all in interest of saving money.

 

I believe that if you take very good care of your bike, you will be confident when riding it also, that it will be a lot less likely to give you any problems.

 

But having said that, if you want to, you can probably do oil change maybe twice a year while using 7100, and a full servicing once a year. My threshold was 3000 km or 3months change oil, whichever came sooner. Oil if don't change for long period, will oxidize and cause problems. You can pour in brand new eo, and not ride the bike for a yr, when u drain the eo, it will be black instead of gold, cos of oxidation. Add in riding, and god knows what other metallic particles are inside that sludge if you don't change until a yr later.

 

Also, two-stroke, i'll prefer to use transmission oil instead of 4-stroke engine oil, because the protection and lubrication is more specific. Motul has transoil.

 

 

 

My schedule -

 

Change engine oil and spark plug every month, or 1.5 months. Also asked them to lube the chain.

 

During this servicing, they will tell me what parts need to be changed. The WS i go to regularly are more honest and they are willing to help you save money.

 

Unlike some ah beng WS, tell u change this and change that all in the interest of earning money.

[Khairulaminurasyid]

How much is it to rebuild the whole engine for Honda NSR 150 SP year 2000 model. What is the cost and the downtime for the whole process. Thank you!

 

Regards,

Khairu

[wait4me]

year 2000 model should be FR plate?

 

rebuilt engine /change everything i think 2k more then enough , should be 1 week downtime.

but why bother if your bike less then3 years before renew of COE

[Dai]

Hi All, May i know how to top up coolant for NSR150sp? any recommended brand and model? and where to get the coolant?

[jasper92]

Hi All, May i know how to top up coolant for NSR150sp? any recommended brand and model? and where to get the coolant?

 

It is located beside your 2t tank. Just remove the rubber cap and pour your coolant in but dont go over the mark. I personally use liquimoly coolant.

[wait4me]

sp coolant no need to get good brands.

some i know use plain water

[jbdoggy]

Hi All, May i know how to top up coolant for NSR150sp? any recommended brand and model? and where to get the coolant?

 

Chk the radiator side 1st. If level looks kinda low or somewhat dryish, top up there until level is close to the top. Start up your bike & let it idle. Observe the coolant level to see if it stays at that level or goes down. If it goes down, top up some more until the level is stable at the top. Then put back the radiator cap back on. Now check your reservoir, if low level, top up until it reaches the indicated level.

 

Most common type is the ethylene glycol type. Mostly in blue or green colours. No need to get expensive/exotic ones eg engine ice as bro @wait4me said, cos each time you do a full service - be it once every 3 mths, 6mths or a year, its going to be drained off & replaced. You can tell the mech to reuse the coolant during full service tho some will advise against it as it will get contaminated in the collection dish. But if you do reuse, I was told the lifespan is abt 40k km. Using coolant for too long will cause carbon & other residue & impurities to build up within the engine parts & water lines. Any motordiam will sell coolant.

 

I personally like Ipone Radiator Fluid (blue) -$18. Currently using Elf Moto Organic Coolant (yellow) after I overhauled in JB. Ive also used Yamalube coolant (Red). But seems like the above 2 keeps the engine a bit cooler compared to yamalube when on the run.

 

Dont simply mix different brands of coolant. Different brands may have different additives & what not. These may cause chemical reactions that may cause damage to your fluid lines. If youre gonna change brands safest is to flush your system entirely of the old coolant before using the new brand. If a certain shop does not carry the brand you want, make sure you check 1st that the new brand is compatible with what you have 1st. But if all the brands are just plain ethylene glycol only, no problem mixing even if they are different colour.

[Crazybiker]

anyone mod or replace your stock horn??

 

it's too soft to be heard by drivers especially at highway speeds/

 

also thinking of upgrading the charging coil and battery to higher capacity to support brighter lights and future mods, is it possible to upgrade the alternator?

[jbdoggy]

anyone mod or replace your stock horn??

 

it's too soft to be heard by drivers especially at highway speeds/

 

also thinking of upgrading the charging coil and battery to higher capacity to support brighter lights and future mods, is it possible to upgrade the alternator?

 

I hv a Bosch horn installed after my stock horn got spoilt 1 yr ago. Its far much louder & audible compared to the stock horn. Told the mech that i wanted a loud one. That will always mean an aftermarket horn. RM$145.

 

I dont think you can upgrade the alternator or rectifier. But you can chk with your mech to double confirm.