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riding a class 2 bike in sg


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it gets cheaper overtime

 

at 27years

 

direct asia fire n theft

 

about approx $600

 

hayabusa

Past to present rides

 

Honda nsr sp 150 pro arm

Honda super4 ver s - yamaha rxz 135

Honda cbr 600 rr

Suzuki hayabusa 1300 - yamaha cygnus 125 - yamaha lc135 spark

Aprilia sr max 300 I.e

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/10/22/bikepics-2608839-full.jpg

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hi guys, planning to get a Class 2 bike coming may, probably gonna ride my way out of 4 years of full time studies.

 

Does any one know the Otr price minus insurance for

Fz1 & Fz8?

i saw Fz1s selling at about 13000 for a 2010 registered. so if a new one cost only 20k then it would make sense to get a new one instead?

 

I've ridden sports 600cc and 1000cc before going back down to a pulsar 200 (damn awesome workhorse) and after driving a 2.4l car for 2 years, i totally agree a more powerful bike projects a greater road presence ( id curse and swear at the slow ones some times haha), hence i won't be returning to a 2B anymore.

 

Haven't ridden a class 2 bike in years!

My main concerns are heat ( in jams and hot Singapore weather )

 

Thank you in advance for the advice.

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class 2 insurance roughly how much? thanks

 

Different people different, different bike and years of experience also differs.

 

For me, 3rd party around 600, 2nd party around 1k, comprehensive around 2k.

 

i saw Fz1s selling at about 13000 for a 2010 registered. so if a new one cost only 20k then it would make sense to get a new one instead?

 

Imo better new but you bear the most loss but you also bear the least wear and tear. As far as heat goes, you have ride fast or feel the burn, its not that bad with inline 4s.

Edited by Jehuty
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class 2 insurance roughly how much? thanks

 

Subjective question. Depends on make/model/age of bike, age/riding experience/occupation/NCD/cert of merit/previous claim, purpose of ownership etc.

 

Lastly... different insurer quotation is also different. I got both my bikes under Direct Asia recently. Saved a couple hundreds for both.

#ShutUp_and_Ride

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hi guys, planning to get a Class 2 bike coming may, probably gonna ride my way out of 4 years of full time studies.

 

Does any one know the Otr price minus insurance for

Fz1 & Fz8?

i saw Fz1s selling at about 13000 for a 2010 registered. so if a new one cost only 20k then it would make sense to get a new one instead?

 

I've ridden sports 600cc and 1000cc before going back down to a pulsar 200 (damn awesome workhorse) and after driving a 2.4l car for 2 years, i totally agree a more powerful bike projects a greater road presence ( id curse and swear at the slow ones some times haha), hence i won't be returning to a 2B anymore.

 

Haven't ridden a class 2 bike in years!

My main concerns are heat ( in jams and hot Singapore weather )

 

Thank you in advance for the advice.

 

For water cooled engines, many folks has tell me yammies has one of the hotter engines. Don't know how true. Get something with fairing helps, long pants, high cut boots and stay clear of air cooled engines. Though I feel most water cooled class 2 engines has huge radiators so maybe there isn't much different in terms of heat between brands.

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One thing i cannot stand is heat. The heat from Super 4 I also cannot take it already lol. Heat makes people flustered and angst especially in jams, and then the riding tends to be more haphazard. That is the case for me at least.

` ` ` ,=; ` ` ` ` ` ` `

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` `_//\=x(_)\/ __ ` ` `

` / `\ \{}}}/ / `\ ~ ~`

`| () | \(_)=| () |~ ` ~

` \__/ ` ` ` `\__/ ` ` `

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One thing i cannot stand is heat. The heat from Super 4 I also cannot take it already lol. Heat makes people flustered and angst especially in jams, and then the riding tends to be more haphazard. That is the case for me at least.

 

You must hate Ducatis, RSV4s and R1s then, the heat from the Ducati if you stay in traffic for too long, blisters start to form.

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You must hate Ducatis, RSV4s and R1s then, the heat from the Ducati if you stay in traffic for too long, blisters start to form.

 

Ducati is okay. The worst is Yamaha bikes. I've ridden both and I can safely say that Yamaha bikes are damn hot.

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You must hate Ducatis, RSV4s and R1s then, the heat from the Ducati if you stay in traffic for too long, blisters start to form.

 

Omg blisters seriously??

` ` ` ,=; ` ` ` ` ` ` `

` ` `/_____ ` ` ` ` ` `

` `()[_____\,,,,. ` ` `

` `_//\=x(_)\/ __ ` ` `

` / `\ \{}}}/ / `\ ~ ~`

`| () | \(_)=| () |~ ` ~

` \__/ ` ` ` `\__/ ` ` `

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So maybe it's not a myth after all. Hahaha. Upgrading of the coolant might help but no guarantees cos heat is still being dumped into the radiator.

 

Distilled water is the best cooling medium but it offers no protection to oxidisation and in other places, freezing, those glycol ones do but they aren't that more efficient than pure water.

 

Maybe Yammies are very lean stock, well either you add a fuel controller like PCV and Bazzaz to richen it so its less hot for tt aspect.

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So maybe it's not a myth after all. Hahaha. Upgrading of the coolant might help but no guarantees cos heat is still being dumped into the radiator.

 

Distilled water is the best cooling medium but it offers no protection to oxidisation and in other places, freezing, those glycol ones do but they aren't that more efficient than pure water.

 

Maybe Yammies are very lean stock, well either you add a fuel controller like PCV and Bazzaz to richen it so its less hot for tt aspect.

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Distilled water is the best cooling medium but it offers no protection to oxidisation and in other places, freezing, those glycol ones do but they aren't that more efficient than pure water.

 

Maybe Yammies are very lean stock, well either you add a fuel controller like PCV and Bazzaz to richen it so its less hot for tt aspect.

 

Maxima cool aide. The best haha. No anti freeze, just water, corrosion inhibitor and water wetter

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Distilled water is the best cooling medium but it offers no protection to oxidisation and in other places, freezing, those glycol ones do but they aren't that more efficient than pure water.

 

Maybe Yammies are very lean stock, well either you add a fuel controller like PCV and Bazzaz to richen it so its less hot for tt aspect.

 

Maxima cool aide. The best haha. No anti freeze, just water, corrosion inhibitor and water wetter

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coolant does not make your bike engine produce less heat. its job is to 'throw away' the heat the bike produces. therefore a 'good' coolant makes your legs feel even warmer because it effectively throws away even more heat out of the engine/radiator.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/689/siggyyy.jpghttp://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/203/hsmj.jpg

It's true: it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than to ride a fast bike slow. Admittedly, though... It is MOST fun to ride a fast bike fast!

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coolant does not make your bike engine produce less heat. its job is to 'throw away' the heat the bike produces. therefore a 'good' coolant makes your legs feel even warmer because it effectively throws away even more heat out of the engine/radiator.

 

that's where i am coming from. im not saying changing coolant make the engine produce less heat but because its so much better at moving the heat to the radiator, the engine itself will feel cooler. most bikes will have shrouds on the radiator that try to deflect hot radiator air away from the person's leg and thus you feel cooler in general. but like i said, its may not guarantee that it will be the most effective.

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Maxima cool aide. The best haha. No anti freeze, just water, corrosion inhibitor and water wetter

 

Redline water wetter la with distilled water, most shops will just use tap water and engine ice to make it sound like its something different and charge you more.

Edited by Jehuty
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Redline water wetter la with distilled water, most shops will just use tap water and engine ice to make it sound like its something different and charge you more.

 

Haha redline water wetter must mix, cool aide premix but guess either one. Too bad most shops only carry engine ice and now got Evans waterless coolant.

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Redline water wetter la with distilled water, most shops will just use tap water and engine ice to make it sound like its something different and charge you more.

 

Haha redline water wetter must mix, cool aide premix but guess either one. Too bad most shops only carry engine ice and now got Evans waterless coolant.

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Haha redline water wetter must mix, cool aide premix but guess either one. Too bad most shops only carry engine ice and now got Evans waterless coolant.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Just checked out Evans and am honestly quite impressed. Anything for maintenance-free cooling system lol. But the process of installing seems mafan, have to flush the system and make sure there's not a single drop of water (okay fine 3% tolerance).

 

Actually I'm quite confused also, higher operating temperature means less efficient isn't it? Since there is an optimum operating temperature for our engines, which is only about 80~120 degrees max.

` ` ` ,=; ` ` ` ` ` ` `

` ` `/_____ ` ` ` ` ` `

` `()[_____\,,,,. ` ` `

` `_//\=x(_)\/ __ ` ` `

` / `\ \{}}}/ / `\ ~ ~`

`| () | \(_)=| () |~ ` ~

` \__/ ` ` ` `\__/ ` ` `

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Haha redline water wetter must mix, cool aide premix but guess either one. Too bad most shops only carry engine ice and now got Evans waterless coolant.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Just checked out Evans and am honestly quite impressed. Anything for maintenance-free cooling system lol. But the process of installing seems mafan, have to flush the system and make sure there's not a single drop of water (okay fine 3% tolerance).

 

Actually I'm quite confused also, higher operating temperature means less efficient isn't it? Since there is an optimum operating temperature for our engines, which is only about 80~120 degrees max.

` ` ` ,=; ` ` ` ` ` ` `

` ` `/_____ ` ` ` ` ` `

` `()[_____\,,,,. ` ` `

` `_//\=x(_)\/ __ ` ` `

` / `\ \{}}}/ / `\ ~ ~`

`| () | \(_)=| () |~ ` ~

` \__/ ` ` ` `\__/ ` ` `

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