[Archived - 2009] PK Official- Questions for Newbie

[weiz85]

Originally posted by Smart Bet@Oct 7 2005, 12:09 PM

I've mentioned before and time again, there is no "correct" way of running in. Just want to understand the logic of easy run-in.

 

By being sealed means that the cylinder walls are properly "shaved" off which in turns makes the seal around the bore more or less perfect. Optimum combustion, minimum leakage.

 

Again, hard run-in DOES NOT MEAN WHACKING IT HARD. It means having a good relatively hard acceleration and decceleration method. Obviously constant red-lining will only damage your engine, new or old.

i never stresssed that only my way of running in is correct.

but i can tell u tat i did it in a hard way like wat was mention in the "break in secret" ! i blieve in breaking in the engine and not running in!

dun ask me wat the difference, i understand once when it was explained to me but i duno how to put it in words to explain to u!

[weiz85]

Originally posted by kiamh@Oct 7 2005, 11:59 AM

Sometimes I do wonder:

 

In these days where precison engineering and machining is becoming the standard practice in automotive parts, is run-in necessary anymore? I hardly hear of car owners running in their 4-wheelers

 

In my line of work, I see lots of precision machined components, and I am sure that such micro-perfect fits between mating parts can also be easily achieved in automotive components. A prime piston (& piston ring ) sitting perfectly colinear with a engine block bore is no longer an impossibility. Bore finishing can easily be 'touched-up' to mirror finishes if necessary.

 

Neway, just for reference. I hardly followed any run-in procedure for my TA200, although as a newbie then, I was kind of influenced by the "easy run-in" school of thought. I kept my bike under 60kmh for the first day I got the bike. Subsequently, heck-care liao, cos its a pain to ride under 60kmh. My first change of EO was at 500km(semi-syn), 2nd at 1000km(semi-syn) & 3rd change at 1500km (fully-syn) subsequenly I change fully-syn every 2k km or so. (top up another 300ml after 1k km)

 

For the record, my bike has been running for 17months with no major engine problems. Chain has been tightened only once in this 17months and the only major downtime was when I dropped my bike on the left side and jammed the gear lever.

 

So I dunno lah... just run-in the way you are most comfortable with lor. There will always be contradicting opinions on the 'proper' way to run in an engine... read, understand, evaluate and execute per your own judgement.

 

Lastly, I am currently more inclined towards the hard run-in school of thought, and will probably do that for my next new bike in the future (even if it might not be neccessary, considering my opinions above)

seriously u wont know when the engine problem is coming, u wont feel anything until its time for u to change! theres is no warning, no way of monitering!

 

i got a friend's father, who change a brand new bike every year.

reason is, he dun like to run in the bike and do regualr maintainance.

[nivleK1985]

Originally posted by weiz85@Oct 7 2005, 04:53 PM

seriously u wont know when the engine problem is coming, u wont feel anything until its time for u to change! theres is no warning, no way of monitering!

 

i got a friend's father, who change a brand new bike every year.

reason is, he dun like to run in the bike and do regualr maintainance.

He need god-son ?

[Joyboi]

Hi all, I bought a FU plate phantom 200 with mileage of 43000km for $2600.. Isit ex?

[fleaz]

i guess not.

[Mark Ng]

i 'long sentence' speak short' english not good, pardon me...

 

fans won't be enough to cool down engine.

 

no pressure on piston unlike running on road. get what i mean? sorry ar, cannot talk very good.

[Mark Ng]

[iMO, isnt it best to do run in by riding? If so, newbies can also familiarize the road and road conditions @ different timing.

 

paiseio nv read properly.

but my comment only for the 'padlock/car jack' method

[Clueless1982]

I have bought a 2nd hand TA150 Phantom, but its has lots of problems, and recently a new problem resurface but i dunno wat happening.

 

When moving off in first gear, initial is ok, but after a while, the tak tak phenomenon will come. The bike like not accelerating as usual become slower, then when trottle more, it will slowly overcome and the normal sound come back with the tak tak sound disappearing with the normal sp engine sound coming back picking up power coming back.

 

Then no matter which gear, sometime when acclerating half way, it came back again. Power lost, sound like piston almost seizing. Engine vibrating with the tak tak sound very loud. Bike will not increase speed more although trottle a lot, sometime have to down gear, but down gear suppose to have more power, it become less power with that tak tak sound and engine vibrate with the sound violently. Always have to trottle a lot to overcome the phenomenon and then it will become smoother.

 

When picking up, if all the way wack a lot of trottle, less chance to feel that choking sound. But after hitting a certain speed in any of the gear, the sound comes again..........going up a gentle slope is so difficult, even 3rd gear has no power, need to engage 2nd gear, Anyone knows wat the problem is??

 

I keep reading abt ppl going to ah koon for servicing, is that shop good and where is it?? i wan to fixed my bike of all its problems, sick and tired of gg back to the repair shop so frequently...........

[Clueless1982]

There is also another problem..........i pump full tank and its can only travel ard 110km or so!!! Can someone enlighten me of the problem?? thanks, i a noobie in bikes....

[Thunder_X]

Originally posted by Clueless1982@Oct 8 2005, 12:04 AM

There is also another problem..........i pump full tank and its can only travel ard 110km or so!!! Can someone enlighten me of the problem?? thanks, i a noobie in bikes....

too little senario given...

pls me more detail....

[bugger]

went surveying fer a ta200 3 days back...

 

at as phoon bt merah branch... the guy started the engine... being a cold engine... it switched off by itself after arnd 40 secs or so... as it is being started from cold... so i thought nuthing of it...

 

he restarted it back... and it switched off again by itself... again after 40 secs or so...

 

i was like wat the hell??

 

is this normal??

[dudley]

start it with blowing the trottle for 5-10 sec and let it run till engine warm ,normally cold start will die if u dont give trottle enought.

another way pull the choke and start...5 sec push the choke back...the engine would be running fine...

[bugger]

Originally posted by dudley@Oct 8 2005, 08:27 PM

start it with blowing the trottle for 5-10 sec and let it run till engine warm ,normally cold start will die if u dont give trottle enought.

another way pull the choke and start...5 sec push the choke back...the engine would be running fine...

ermmm... well i read somewhere in this forum that.. from cold start... u juz start the engine throttle abit... and let it run... shud be warm enuff after arnd 30 secs..

 

problem is... i myself blowed the throttle abit... even the guy blowed it abit... the engine still died off after arnd 40 secs...

 

still normal?? or juz plain bad engine?

 

ouh yeah... isnt blowing the engine fer 5-10 secs supposed to be bad fer ur engine?? its like running straight away from a cold start...

[BlackDawn]

maybe the fuel kok was in the 'OFF' position. That's why engine die off after all the fuel in the line leading to the carb burn off liao.

[Thunder_X]

shouldnt be a good sign if engine keep on dying every 40 seconds.

lolz~

[Phantomenace]

noob qn here

 

riding a TA150

 

where to put my 2T?

how often i have to put?

 

2T = engine oil?

[madman]

Originally posted by Phantomenace@Oct 11 2005, 01:37 PM

noob qn here

 

riding a TA150

 

where to put my 2T?

how often i have to put?

 

2T = engine oil?

It's located near the left side chrome cover, below the tank.

 

You can see visually if 2T is enuff or not (by opening the chrome cover) or by the indicator on the speedometer thing. There's a thing that says oil on the speedo, and will light up if 2T needs to be topped up.

 

That is provided the indicator is working properly in the 1st place.

[Phantomenace]

the cap with the 'OIL' on it ?

 

normally how often do u refill?

[firstluv]

sometimes engine old liao .. so cannot keep idling too low means rpm too low .. adjust the rpm higher a bit ..

[nivleK1985]

Originally posted by Phantomenace@Oct 11 2005, 01:49 PM

the cap with the 'OIL' on it ?

 

normally how often do u refill?

for me ard every 3k+ km

 

not very accurate

i'll usually have 1 bottle of 2T juz in case cos i dun check

when light come out, i'll take out screw driver and top up

[bionix2mt]

Riding a TA150. Jus changed engine oil on wed - then rode home, never rode till sat/today. Today rode the bike out, found the engine very rough sounding - when on the move, the bike feels jerky and there a lot of vibrations - travelling speed avg up to 60 - 70km/h. The bike was well and smooth before the oil change - all this symptoms did not surface before.

 

Am suspecting engine oil over-top. Will it cause such symptoms? Using Motul Ester 4T - can any kind souls enlighten pls. Thanks all.

[fleaz]

there are 2 dents on my fuel tank and one part paint chip off liao, tank also slightly rusted. so i'm wondering if it's gonna be more worthwhile to change my tank or to send it to shop to respray (hopefully, spray to original colours). bike slightly more than 4 years old.

[bobo_rider]

Originally posted by fleaz@Oct 17 2005, 11:40 AM

there are 2 dents on my fuel tank and one part paint chip off liao, tank also slightly rusted. so i'm wondering if it's gonna be more worthwhile to change my tank or to send it to shop to respray (hopefully, spray to original colours). bike slightly more than 4 years old.

a new layer of paint can areadi...

[destroybot]

Originally posted by bionix2mt@Oct 16 2005, 12:09 AM

Riding a TA150. Jus changed engine oil on wed - then rode home, never rode till sat/today. Today rode the bike out, found the engine very rough sounding - when on the move, the bike feels jerky and there a lot of vibrations - travelling speed avg up to 60 - 70km/h. The bike was well and smooth before the oil change - all this symptoms did not surface before.

 

Am suspecting engine oil over-top. Will it cause such symptoms? Using Motul Ester 4T - can any kind souls enlighten pls. Thanks all.

heard from my fellow friend when u change eo the effect will not come out so quickly, instead it would be rather uneasy when just change, for me the same.

 

Try to push 3rd gear and 4th gear further. (smoothing of eo in engine)

 

this one i heard from my friend, but not very sure lor. btw mines a TA200

[Thunder_X]

Originally posted by destroybot@Oct 18 2005, 09:12 PM

heard from my fellow friend when u change eo the effect will not come out so quickly, instead it would be rather uneasy when just change, for me the same.

 

Try to push 3rd gear and 4th gear further. (smoothing of eo in engine)

 

this one i heard from my friend, but not very sure lor. btw mines a TA200

TA 150 is 2 stroke bike. 2 stroke shouldnt have engine oil as far as I'm concern, 2 stroke bike's one is gear oil (correct me if i'm wrong)

 

BTW bionix2mt,

the vibration seems a bit weird to me, gear oil changed shouldnt have such big effect, changed my sport bike's gear oil before, no such thing happened.

 

I think the vibration might due to some losen parts of your bike or maybe the engine itself. Did you do other servicing other than changing the gear oil? If you did, maybe the mech didnt screw those things tightly and properly.

 

Juz my humble opinion...