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Posted

option 2:

AYE >> ECP >> TPE >> Exit similar to above

 

i will choose this IMO:P

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

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Posted
option 1:

AYE >> ECP >> KPE >> PIE >> TPE >> Exit Loyang/Changi Village and follow road signs towards Downtown East

 

option 2:

AYE >> ECP >> TPE >> Exit similar to above

 

option 3:

Clementi >> Adam Road >> PIE(Changi) >> TPE >> Exit similar to above

 

refer to http://www.streetdirectory.com for more details!

:goodluck:

 

ahhh ic.. i will choose option 2 maybe... i guess i know e way but unfamiliar at which exit... thank kyuk! .. ani1 free nx wk...? i'll b on leave.. bored, nowhere to go....

Posted
ahhh ic.. i will choose option 2 maybe... i guess i know e way but unfamiliar at which exit... thank kyuk! .. ani1 free nx wk...? i'll b on leave.. bored, nowhere to go....

 

:lol:

go ahead and set a date, time & activity and wait for response?

must pray for dry weather though. seems like raining during evening time for most days of this week.

:sian:

=[ Honda CBR150R ]=

....=[ R E P S O L ]=....

Posted

hi, will anyone b interested if i import an aftermarket air filter for tis bike? currently i m bringing in some for pulsar....

 

more details can be found at e link below http://sites.google.com/site/satyrwebstore/products/motorcycle-parts/protec-air-filter

 

currently, me n some pulsarian r using it u can feel instant improvement in pickup... best of all its washable/reusable

Current P200 setup: Sinnob Sproc[15, 39], NGK platinum plug with spark booster, V3 racing coil, cheetah CDI[dual mode], broquet B2, DIY oiler, hazard light, DIY gnding, PE28[pj-38, mj-120], open pod filter

Posted
hi, will anyone b interested if i import an aftermarket air filter for tis bike? currently i m bringing in some for pulsar....

 

more details can be found at e link below http://sites.google.com/site/satyrwebstore/products/motorcycle-parts/protec-air-filter

 

currently, me n some pulsarian r using it u can feel instant improvement in pickup... best of all its washable/reusable

 

hm...curious...washable using solvent or just plain water will do?

:cheeky:

=[ Honda CBR150R ]=

....=[ R E P S O L ]=....

Posted
hm...curious...washable using solvent or just plain water will do?

:cheeky:

 

filter element does not require oiling unlike K&N filter therefore does not require special cleanser for cleaning, washable using normal diluted detegent....

Current P200 setup: Sinnob Sproc[15, 39], NGK platinum plug with spark booster, V3 racing coil, cheetah CDI[dual mode], broquet B2, DIY oiler, hazard light, DIY gnding, PE28[pj-38, mj-120], open pod filter

Posted
cool! cbr makes one go back for more lol :p (what about r15 tho, did u consider that too? :x)

so when/ where would u be getting ur 08 cbr?

 

r15 ah...the cost a bit high for me. and would it still look as good with a e33 box?? ;)

 

i just got the bike today from a shop at ubi.

Posted
r15 ah...the cost a bit high for me. and would it still look as good with a e33 box?? ;)

 

i just got the bike today from a shop at ubi.

 

lol.. fed up until change a new bike huh? but its true lah.. cbr150 makes one go back for more, cos its just so reliable. :thumb: lar-kopi again soon!

[ :: w h i t e f a n g :: ]

for the love of the game, and the ride..

Posted
are u sure? wait till worned out meaning? i heard changin of a chain takes approx 8mths-a year.. so, within these days, shld i lube it for a moment ?

 

The purpose of lubricating a chain is the same as lubricating anything. To reduce friction and hence reducing power loss.

 

Reduced friction also means that the amount of wear is reduced. Hence the chain will last longer.

 

However, the key word is reduced wear, not an elimination of chain wear.The chain will still wear out over time. Chain wear is largely depended on the rider's riding style. However, it is safe to change chains every 10,000km.

 

Now there is little debate over should you lube or not. You SHOULD.

But the discussion is largely over what is the best way to lube the chain. Some people use teflon, some people use margarine...:faint:

 

Rock on beautiful people!

Protegas Et Deleas

Posted

lol margarine, hope that chef washes his hands before handling any food articles, orse customers get more then they bargain for ^^;;

every 10,000 km? oh dear! my chain 8,500 km alr, time to change..anyone else need to change anot?

 

-> thanks Norisha for the info! :D

 

mm also, anyone care to recommend a good chain? eg. DID X- or O-ring, heavy-duty etc? :o

baby, u're my love..

 

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww87/curtailed_cat/DSC_0725_650.jpg

Sin Ming Editor got 1 DAY jailterm and $2000 fine for pillion death!

Rally Point: http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5322898#post5322898

Posted
r15 ah...the cost a bit high for me. and would it still look as good with a e33 box?? ;)

 

I dont think so. Cos the back is smaller compare to cbr. Another thing is that, can u find the right rack?

 

Hey arrange for Sunset Grill lah/...

 

Ya loh, y dont u organize?

 

Reduced friction also means that the amount of wear is reduced. Hence the chain will last longer.

 

However, the key word is reduced wear, not an elimination of chain wear.The chain will still wear out over time. Chain wear is largely depended on the rider's riding style. However, it is safe to change chains every 10,000km.

 

Additional info, sprocket also last longer. I notice for those using O or X rings, the sprocket would wear faster than the chain. But when we change the sprocket, we also will change the chain at the same time. Isnt that waste of $$? How then?

 

Chain replacement every 10k km is abit too early for O-Rings. My X-Rings and the sprocket r still gg strong. Serve me for 20k km alrdy.

Guys, ride safely. Road is not for playing.

 

CBR150R :thumb: :shades:

Posted (edited)
mm also, anyone care to recommend a good chain? eg. DID X- or O-ring, heavy-duty etc? :o

 

Just get the original DID O-Rings from Everfit, cheap & good. If u dont mind pay more, get the RK brand. Dont forget to change the sprocket at the same time, if u really decide to change ur chain at only 10k km. Else there will be another labour cost to pay.

 

I wouldnt recommend heavy duty. Its not O-Rings (if i not wrong) and its meant for those scramble gg to mountain, lot of rocks 1 (hope u know what i meant). Our road here so smooth + our bike doesnt hve high tourqe, so dont need super strong chain. 2 cents. :angel:

 

If ur chain doesnt create much noise, there is no need to change. If there r noise, go to ur frequent bike shop to adjust. If there is no allowance for adjusting, thats the time to change ur chain.

 

Also, check the sprocket teeth. Clean is using a tisue, just 2 or 3 will do. If its still flat, there is no need to change. If its gg to be like sharp, its the time to change.

 

These r the ways I used to check whether there is any need to change both or any of them. It doesnt really depend on the milage we traveled.

Edited by Red_Devils

Guys, ride safely. Road is not for playing.

 

CBR150R :thumb: :shades:

Posted
Hey where is Zed really? I hope he is alright... I have not seen him post anything is ages.

 

He is alright. Dont worry. If u miss him, just call him. :angel:

Guys, ride safely. Road is not for playing.

 

CBR150R :thumb: :shades:

Posted

 

Additional info, sprocket also last longer. I notice for those using O or X rings, the sprocket would wear faster than the chain. But when we change the sprocket, we also will change the chain at the same time. Isnt that waste of $$? How then?

 

Chain replacement every 10k km is abit too early for O-Rings. My X-Rings and the sprocket r still gg strong. Serve me for 20k km alrdy.

 

Hmm, I think the point of using X-Ring is not primarily to make it last longer. The X part of the x-ring traps lubricants and hence ensuring that the chain is "smoother" when running. It is a bonus that it lasts longer.

 

I think it all depends on how you ride. If you want the most performance out of your bike then X-ring is the way to go. But if you use the bike mainly for riding around then safety is top priority and I suppose stick with regular chain and sprocket but change the whole set when it is worn.

Protegas Et Deleas

Posted (edited)
Hmm, I think the point of using X-Ring is not primarily to make it last longer. The X part of the x-ring traps lubricants and hence ensuring that the chain is "smoother" when running. It is a bonus that it lasts longer.

 

I think it all depends on how you ride. If you want the most performance out of your bike then X-ring is the way to go. But if you use the bike mainly for riding around then safety is top priority and I suppose stick with regular chain and sprocket but change the whole set when it is worn.

 

The red sentence: thats the reason why X can last longer than O, isnt it?

 

Actually the different betwen O and X rings is just the shape of the rubber between the links. I dont feel much difference between the 2 performance, except X-Rings can keep the lubricants longer than O-Rings. Dont get it wrong, O-Rings also keep the lubricants u sprayed. :angel:

 

Forget to mention, its more expensive than O-Rings. Can diff at least 30bucks, I guess.

Edited by Red_Devils

Guys, ride safely. Road is not for playing.

 

CBR150R :thumb: :shades:

Posted
He is alright. Dont worry. If u miss him, just call him. :angel:

 

Lol, I would but I have unfortunately lost all contacts on my phone... don't ask...

 

Thankfully Shaun text me the other day...

Protegas Et Deleas

Posted
Just get the original DID O-Rings from Everfit, cheap & good. Dont forget to change the sprocket at the same time, if u really decide to change ur chain at only 10k km. Else there will be another labour cost to pay.

 

I wouldnt recommend heavy duty. Its not O-Rings (if i not wrong) and its meant for those scramble gg to mountain, lot of rocks 1 (hope u know what i meant). Our road here so smooth + our bike doesnt hve high tourqe, so dont need super strong chain. 2 cents. :angel:

 

If ur chain doesnt create much noise, there is no need to change. If there r noise, go to ur frequent bike shop to adjust. If there is no allowance for adjusting, thats the time to change ur chain.

 

Also, check the sprocket teeth. Clean is using a tisue, just 2 or 3 will do. If its still flat, there is no need to change. If its gg to be like sharp, its the time to change.

 

These r the ways I used to check whether there is any need to change both or any of them. It doesnt really depend on the milage we traveled.

wow! thanks for all the details David! :thumb:

 

..so thats what heavy duty is for..

chain is slightly noisy, ching-ching-ching sometimes..bikeshop said no need to adjust nor change

..but i noticed its really getting rusty :( hope that it doesnt affect the performance or snap :faint:

 

um..norisha, pm-ed =p

baby, u're my love..

 

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww87/curtailed_cat/DSC_0725_650.jpg

Sin Ming Editor got 1 DAY jailterm and $2000 fine for pillion death!

Rally Point: http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5322898#post5322898

Posted
Just get the original DID O-Rings from Everfit, cheap & good. If u dont mind pay more, get the RK brand. Dont forget to change the sprocket at the same time, if u really decide to change ur chain at only 10k km. Else there will be another labour cost to pay.

 

I wouldnt recommend heavy duty. Its not O-Rings (if i not wrong) and its meant for those scramble gg to mountain, lot of rocks 1 (hope u know what i meant). Our road here so smooth + our bike doesnt hve high tourqe, so dont need super strong chain. 2 cents. :angel:

 

If ur chain doesnt create much noise, there is no need to change. If there r noise, go to ur frequent bike shop to adjust. If there is no allowance for adjusting, thats the time to change ur chain.

 

Also, check the sprocket teeth. Clean is using a tisue, just 2 or 3 will do. If its still flat, there is no need to change. If its gg to be like sharp, its the time to change.

 

These r the ways I used to check whether there is any need to change both or any of them. It doesnt really depend on the milage we traveled.

 

Yup agreed! At the end of the day constant checking is best....

 

And using chains with high tensile strength will also help.

 

With regard to the x vs o rings, what i know is based on what I have read so far lah, I can be wrong but what I've read made sense to me so far. Hmm...

 

Rock on!

Protegas Et Deleas

Posted
Yup agreed! At the end of the day constant checking is best....

 

And using chains with high tensile strength will also help.

 

With regard to the x vs o rings, what i know is based on what I have read so far lah, I can be wrong but what I've read made sense to me so far. Hmm...

 

Rock on!

 

Y no comment? :angel:

 

"y dont u organize the spicy chicken wings outing?"

Guys, ride safely. Road is not for playing.

 

CBR150R :thumb: :shades:

Posted
hmm why another cbr150? why not other bikes? iirc, repsol i think produce for older cbr models nia. as in, original ah. but newer ones i duno.

 

this is a strange question to ask... once cbr, always cbr.. unless of course got full license and can afford larger bike... I still miss my good old CBR.... (especially when parking my current bike - need more muscle)

Posted
this is a strange question to ask... once cbr, always cbr.. unless of course got full license and can afford larger bike... I still miss my good old CBR.... (especially when parking my current bike - need more muscle)

 

i guess its mainly becos there's no other

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