CBR929 and CBR954 riders

[uncleVTEC]

saw a red 954 at HKL. is it urs, takala? didnt see u there. wad happen to it?

[hmm_]

red/black 954 spotted at sembawang road yesterday at 2+pm near sembawang shopping centre...

[takala21]

Originally posted by uncleVTEC@April 14, 2007 09:39 am

saw a red 954 at HKL. is it urs, takala? didnt see u there. wad happen to it?

yuP hav the magnetic coil changed...

the battery had not been charging for quite syum time le ...

can't even start tat day when i go to work..

make me damn ga jiong SIAL !

bo bian tOW it to HKL for servicing...

pocket BIG hoLe AGain !

[FunkyChicken]

how much for the magnetic coil bro?

[takala21]

woops i changed both rectifier n coil...

which cost me close to $500 ...

[takala21]

i forget the amt for individual items liao

paisey funky ...

[LouisB]

Originally posted by takala21@April 15, 2007 07:49 am

i forget the amt for individual items liao

paisey funky ...

rectifier shd b aroung 120+-

coil 300+-

labor cost ??

 

[LouisB]

Originally posted by takala21@April 15, 2007 07:49 am

i forget the amt for individual items liao

paisey funky ...

Tin cannot go out la kopi for time being liao..

[takala21]

yuP the amt is roughly there...

hmm la kopi ...

u sure or not...

jio u always cannot make it wan ~

[FunkyChicken]

wah biang...they quote me $250 sey for the coil.. $120 is the oem rectifier...yeah..... ishkk almost got into dat situation.. lucky my bike ok liao!! still charging!! hahahhaha

 

so u have it change when ur batt are flat lar?? they change new batt and rectifier izit?? then c no charging they noe its the coil liao??

[takala21]

rectifier still charging

but they saw my coil chao ta (toasted)...

therefore they suspect the coil create problem.

 

FIREBLADE !!!

it's HOT, it BURNS !!!

 

waHAHAHAH ~

[Aalex82]

Originally posted by takala21@April 16, 2007 07:20 am

rectifier still charging

but they saw my coil chao ta (toasted)...

therefore they suspect the coil create problem.

 

FIREBLADE !!!

it's HOT, it BURNS !!!

 

waHAHAHAH ~

normally is change the whole thing if the coil burns..

but can check easily wif a voltmeter to determine whether the rect is spoilt too..

if budget budget juz change the coil and the batt..

[LouisB]

Originally posted by Aalex82@April 16, 2007 08:21 am

if budget budget juz change the coil and the batt..

JUZ!!!!!!!...

[Aalex82]

Originally posted by CBR379@April 16, 2007 08:57 am

JUZ!!!!!!!...

no choice mah..

rect oso cost abt 100 bucks plus..

can save that for a month lunch money..

[GRassCuTTeR]

Originally posted by Aalex82@April 16, 2007 11:47 am

no choice mah..

rect oso cost abt 100 bucks plus..

can save that for a month lunch money..

ya.. but who knows later the rectifier give problem to the new coil + battery... end up at the end have to change all again if it c*** up... dat time lose 3 month lunch money

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Agree with Grasscutter, it's better to just change whatever's spoilt. Otherwise it's just going to cause you more money and problems later on when you fry something really expensive, like the ECU or the wiring harness, then it'll be REALLY expensive.

 

The shop should really do proper troubleshooting instead of just guessing which parts are bad. It's not hard to do. If someone has the service manual, you can test the battery by disconnecting it, and then using a multimeter to test voltage across the +/- leads.

 

For illustrative purposes only, let's say the correct voltage for a healthy battery is 11.5 - 12.5V. You check and yours is 12.2V. So battery is ok.

 

Now you connect it to the bike and turn on all the lights etc. without starting the engine, manual may say new voltage should read 10 - 11V. So you check battery again, if it passes, battery is ok.

 

Now to check if alternator is working. Start engine, read voltage at battery during idling. Then rev it up and hold it at 4000rpm, voltage should go up to 13.5 - 14.5V. If voltage at 4000rpm is correct, alternator is ok, if not alternative is not producing enough juice.

 

The rectifier/regulator (often in one package) job is to convert AC to DC (rectifier) and to regulate the current produced by the alternator, and clamp it to a max current. Because at idling, your alternator is producing low juice, but when you rev it up to 10,000 rpm, the alternator is putting out a lot of juice.

 

However the system cannot take so much, it'll fry the wires and other sensitive equipment in the wiring circuit. Hence the job of the regulator is to regulate maximum voltage to say 15V and any access is then shunted to ground as heat.

 

This is the reason why regulators on Hondas always go kookoo, some of the older models have no cooling fins, and many are mounted in an area with low airflow. Overheat, will spoil.

 

So to test the regulator, you maybe rev it up to 7000rpm and test the voltage across the battery, if it is regulated to 15V, then regulator ok, if not and voltage shoots up to 17-18V, regulator is not working.

 

I'm actually an electrical dummy, but this is what I understand from the charging system of the bike and how it's supposed to work. So you see, if you only replace some of the broken parts but not others (like not replacing the regulator), when you ride hard, the excess current is not regulated and will fry everything else.

 

Or if the alternator is gone and not changed, your battery will die very fast once it's fully discharged and there's nothing left to charge it.

 

Hope this helps.

[Aalex82]

Originally posted by MiddleAgedBiker@April 16, 2007 02:34 pm

Agree with Grasscutter, it's better to just change whatever's spoilt. Otherwise it's just going to cause you more money and problems later on when you fry something really expensive, like the ECU or the wiring harness, then it'll be REALLY expensive.

 

The shop should really do proper troubleshooting instead of just guessing which parts are bad. It's not hard to do. If someone has the service manual, you can test the battery by disconnecting it, and then using a multimeter to test voltage across the +/- leads.

 

For illustrative purposes only, let's say the correct voltage for a healthy battery is 11.5 - 12.5V. You check and yours is 12.2V. So battery is ok.

 

Now you connect it to the bike and turn on all the lights etc. without starting the engine, manual may say new voltage should read 10 - 11V. So you check battery again, if it passes, battery is ok.

 

Now to check if alternator is working. Start engine, read voltage at battery during idling. Then rev it up and hold it at 4000rpm, voltage should go up to 13.5 - 14.5V. If voltage at 4000rpm is correct, alternator is ok, if not alternative is not producing enough juice.

 

The rectifier/regulator (often in one package) job is to convert AC to DC (rectifier) and to regulate the current produced by the alternator, and clamp it to a max current. Because at idling, your alternator is producing low juice, but when you rev it up to 10,000 rpm, the alternator is putting out a lot of juice.

 

However the system cannot take so much, it'll fry the wires and other sensitive equipment in the wiring circuit. Hence the job of the regulator is to regulate maximum voltage to say 15V and any access is then shunted to ground as heat.

 

This is the reason why regulators on Hondas always go kookoo, some of the older models have no cooling fins, and many are mounted in an area with low airflow. Overheat, will spoil.

 

So to test the regulator, you maybe rev it up to 7000rpm and test the voltage across the battery, if it is regulated to 15V, then regulator ok, if not and voltage shoots up to 17-18V, regulator is not working.

 

I'm actually an electrical dummy, but this is what I understand from the charging system of the bike and how it's supposed to work. So you see, if you only replace some of the broken parts but not others (like not replacing the regulator), when you ride hard, the excess current is not regulated and will fry everything else.

 

Or if the alternator is gone and not changed, your battery will die very fast once it's fully discharged and there's nothing left to charge it.

 

Hope this helps.

i agree wif wat u say..

that y i say juz need voltmeter or like u say multimeter to check the condition of the component. even the coil can be check for its condition.

u hav to select ac model of volt..

hav to test the connection between the 3 wires linked out from the coil to the rect.

wire A, B and C.

test between A and B, then A and C then B and C.

the values must be the same..

i forget the exact values.. will post again when i check my info saved in my own pc..

my bike's coil and batt spoilt b4..

after the checking of every component, onli the required item is spoilt..

til now, i hav no problem wif it.

[Aalex82]

DATE: 21/04/07

DAY: SATURDAY

Venue to meet up: GP esso

Time to meet up: 11:00pm/9pm

Time to move off: 11:30pm/9:30pm

(reason for 2 timing is that the seafood close rather early, 0100HRS. if onli eat nasi lemak can meet at later time for those who can made it at the later time)

 

1. Aalex82 & GF

2. CBR379

3. K526

4.

5.

6.

 

UPZ

no one wanna go??

if too little pple, i may cancel the trip..

[CBR_Rider]

Guys do u know that cbr 954 can fit cbr 1000 front forks and calipers??? hahaha damn power. just need 10mm washer for calipers to bolt on to our discs. if converted, we will have the best braking power in the 1ltr class!!!! cause we have the biggest discs!!! hahahaha ebay here i come!!!!!

[GRassCuTTeR]

the 929/954 has the biggest discs in its class. the CBR1k discs are in fact, smaller in diameter compared to the 954. but then again, fixing the CBR1k front end will give u radial callipers. anyway bigger discs does not necessarily mean better braking power...

[Sesshou]

Originally posted by CBR_Rider@April 18, 2007 12:05 am

Guys do u know that cbr 954 can fit cbr 1000 front forks and calipers??? hahaha damn power. just need 10mm washer for calipers to bolt on to our discs. if converted, we will have the best braking power in the 1ltr class!!!! cause we have the biggest discs!!! hahahaha ebay here i come!!!!!

the 1k fork is 10mm shorter then the 954 . but it will fit in nicely . Only the front will be 10 mm lower .

[takala21]

Originally posted by MiddleAgedBiker@April 16, 2007 02:34 pm

Agree with Grasscutter, it's better to just change whatever's spoilt. Otherwise it's just going to cause you more money and problems later on when you fry something really expensive, like the ECU or the wiring harness, then it'll be REALLY expensive.

 

The shop should really do proper troubleshooting instead of just guessing which parts are bad. It's not hard to do. If someone has the service manual, you can test the battery by disconnecting it, and then using a multimeter to test voltage across the +/- leads.

 

For illustrative purposes only, let's say the correct voltage for a healthy battery is 11.5 - 12.5V. You check and yours is 12.2V. So battery is ok.

 

Now you connect it to the bike and turn on all the lights etc. without starting the engine, manual may say new voltage should read 10 - 11V. So you check battery again, if it passes, battery is ok.

 

Now to check if alternator is working. Start engine, read voltage at battery during idling. Then rev it up and hold it at 4000rpm, voltage should go up to 13.5 - 14.5V. If voltage at 4000rpm is correct, alternator is ok, if not alternative is not producing enough juice.

 

The rectifier/regulator (often in one package) job is to convert AC to DC (rectifier) and to regulate the current produced by the alternator, and clamp it to a max current. Because at idling, your alternator is producing low juice, but when you rev it up to 10,000 rpm, the alternator is putting out a lot of juice.

 

However the system cannot take so much, it'll fry the wires and other sensitive equipment in the wiring circuit. Hence the job of the regulator is to regulate maximum voltage to say 15V and any access is then shunted to ground as heat.

 

This is the reason why regulators on Hondas always go kookoo, some of the older models have no cooling fins, and many are mounted in an area with low airflow. Overheat, will spoil.

 

So to test the regulator, you maybe rev it up to 7000rpm and test the voltage across the battery, if it is regulated to 15V, then regulator ok, if not and voltage shoots up to 17-18V, regulator is not working.

 

I'm actually an electrical dummy, but this is what I understand from the charging system of the bike and how it's supposed to work. So you see, if you only replace some of the broken parts but not others (like not replacing the regulator), when you ride hard, the excess current is not regulated and will fry everything else.

 

Or if the alternator is gone and not changed, your battery will die very fast once it's fully discharged and there's nothing left to charge it.

 

Hope this helps.

wa seH, essAy writing saK ~

got 350 words boh ?

haha

gd day ~

[LouisB]

Originally posted by takala21@April 19, 2007 12:16 am

wa seH, essAy writing saK ~

got 350 words boh ?

haha

gd day ~

how mani mark/grad?teacher...

[MiddleAgedBiker]

wah, I try to help then kena suan ah...ok...next time i keep quiet.......

[GRassCuTTeR]

Originally posted by MiddleAgedBiker@April 19, 2007 11:11 am

wah, I try to help then kena suan ah...ok...next time i keep quiet.......

ahah nvm wan lah. wat u stated are facts which will benefit all of us.