[Discussion] CB400 SUPER FOUR HYPER VTEC Revo

[killjou]

Kelena let me know the verdict after you get your bike checked. I have the same tok-ing sound as described. Thinking if its the chain and sprockets problem.

I'm also near the worn out zone shown from the sticker at the rear sprocket.

 

Thanks in advance!

[kelena]

  killjou said:

Kelena let me know the verdict after you get your bike checked. I have the same tok-ing sound as described. Thinking if its the chain and sprockets problem.

I'm also near the worn out zone shown from the sticker at the rear sprocket.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

You are also facing that? It's a kind of a dull sound with some sensation right? I can feel the tiny vibrations through my handle bars.

 

I just dropped the bike off at the mech. will revert with more details as soon as I have something. But my gut feel is that it isnt anything major.. probably a result of wear and tear.. afterall, my bike is already 2 years old, and I'm not sure if the previous dude changed those "wearable" parts..

[killjou]

Yes! I have this problem for a few months now. Mine is 2009 bike and the chain looks due for change now. It looks old and dirty and has uneven links. I also wonder if its the wheel bearings fault. I can feel the vibrations not just from the handlebar but the rear end of the bike as well.

[killjou]

Mine is stock DID 525 setup btw and its filled with black oily dirt. Every time after washing the bike the sound doesn't appear for awhile. Then a few days it happened again. So I doubt it's internal like wheel bearings.

 

And I just played around with the chain links to make it even and the sound/vibration almost disappeared lol.

Time for 520 conversion.

[ramsnake]

  vinz74 said:

Hi bro, tok tok sound shld be yr front steering cone bearing. I encounter mine before, change the bearing n sound gone.

 

If it's a consistent sound, its unlikely to be the steering head bearings. His bike is only 2 years old so the head bearings should be fine.

Sounds from the head bearing are usually noticed when you accelerate and decelerate. The shift of weight to the front and back during acceleration/deceleration is what causes a worn bearing to move about in the head stock, thus the sound.

 

  kelena said:

@ramsnake I tried again. this time the needle stuck momentarily at 110.. but funny thing is that there are no perceivable problems as the self-checking during start up of the bike worked properly.

I also agree solving sound problems over the net is not so efficient. and again, sound is pretty much subjective. I'm cursed with super-sensitive ears!

 

@vinz74 Thanks buddy, do you also have this problem when you were, say..stopped in the middle of the slope?

 

anyway, I've made an appointment with the bike shop to let them have a through look at it..

thanks again!

 

Good move to send the bike in for a check since you've got 2 issues to solve. Please do update us when your mech has gotten the bike fixed.

 

  killjou said:

Yes! I have this problem for a few months now. Mine is 2009 bike and the chain looks due for change now. It looks old and dirty and has uneven links. I also wonder if its the wheel bearings fault. I can feel the vibrations not just from the handlebar but the rear end of the bike as well.

 

  killjou said:

Mine is stock DID 525 setup btw and its filled with black oily dirt. Every time after washing the bike the sound doesn't appear for awhile. Then a few days it happened again. So I doubt it's internal like wheel bearings.

 

And I just played around with the chain links to make it even and the sound/vibration almost disappeared lol.

Time for 520 conversion.

 

@killjou sounds like you definitely need to change your chain and sprockets. Anyway, with the new chain and sprockets set, do make it a habit to clean your chain too when you wash your bike. A dirty chain wears out much faster due to accumulation of dust and very fine sand. Dirty/worn chains also make the bike run inefficiently thus losing power.

 

Go for 520! The difference is only about $70 more than stock 525 over 2-2.5 years.

[killjou]

Thanks ramsnake!

 

Definitely it's the chain and sprockets and not the wheel bearings?

Been contemplating to change the chain set but keep thinking this old set still can use.

[ramsnake]

  killjou said:

Thanks ramsnake!

 

Definitely it's the chain and sprockets and not the wheel bearings?

Been contemplating to change the chain set but keep thinking this old set still can use.

 

Yes because when you play around with the links, the sound goes away. It also comes back after awhile. Confirm chain gone liao!

[kelena]

k, my bike's back..

 

for the first issue, it turns out that my brake pads did not have the shim plate installed. it was removed by the previous owner. and the tiak tiak sound was caused by the brake pad "slamming" onto the disc whenever I depress my brake lever. They added the metal plate and all's well now. I also discovered that the "travel" of the brake lever was significantly reduced; i do not have to pull it inward so much for the brakes to engage. I should have known, as I felt funny that when i collected the bike, the front brake lever has too long a travel, before engagement, even though it came with SSBHs..

one thing to add, I made sure that as the contact between the brake pad and the disc has now been reduced, there is still no physical contact during riding..

 

for the 2nd one, it appears that the chain is a little tight..and as with aftermarkets, there isnt a rubber damper to reduce the sound. the sound and sensation is actually the rough contact between the chain and the sprocket. they gave the chain a bit more slack, a good clean-up and the sensation and sound has reduced significantly, albeit still there. 2 main factors: chain a wee bit tight, and hyper-sensitivity on my own end!

 

But it's nothing major.. *phew* I heart my revo even more now!!

 

thanks @ramsnake et. al.

[tzmdegil]

  kelena said:

k, my bike's back..

 

for the first issue, it turns out that my brake pads did not have the shim plate installed. it was removed by the previous owner. and the tiak tiak sound was caused by the brake pad "slamming" onto the disc whenever I depress my brake lever. They added the metal plate and all's well now. I also discovered that the "travel" of the brake lever was significantly reduced; i do not have to pull it inward so much for the brakes to engage. I should have known, as I felt funny that when i collected the bike, the front brake lever has too long a travel, before engagement, even though it came with SSBHs..

one thing to add, I made sure that as the contact between the brake pad and the disc has now been reduced, there is still no physical contact during riding..

 

for the 2nd one, it appears that the chain is a little tight..and as with aftermarkets, there isnt a rubber damper to reduce the sound. the sound and sensation is actually the rough contact between the chain and the sprocket. they gave the chain a bit more slack, a good clean-up and the sensation and sound has reduced significantly, albeit still there. 2 main factors: chain a wee bit tight, and hyper-sensitivity on my own end!

 

But it's nothing major.. *phew* I heart my revo even more now!!

 

thanks @ramsnake et. al.

Where u did ur bike??

[ramsnake]

  kelena said:

k, my bike's back..

 

for the first issue, it turns out that my brake pads did not have the shim plate installed. it was removed by the previous owner. and the tiak tiak sound was caused by the brake pad "slamming" onto the disc whenever I depress my brake lever. They added the metal plate and all's well now. I also discovered that the "travel" of the brake lever was significantly reduced; i do not have to pull it inward so much for the brakes to engage. I should have known, as I felt funny that when i collected the bike, the front brake lever has too long a travel, before engagement, even though it came with SSBHs..

one thing to add, I made sure that as the contact between the brake pad and the disc has now been reduced, there is still no physical contact during riding..

 

It's great that you have the issues solved.

The brake levers should have a enough of travel for 2 reasons:

- so that you can just "feather" the brakes for light deceleration; and

- so you don't accidentally lock up the front wheels in times of emergency.

I mostly brake with two fingers. So as a guide I make sure that when I depress the levers, it doesn't go all the way in and touch my last two fingers on the handle bar. That should be enough travel.

 

  kelena said:

for the 2nd one, it appears that the chain is a little tight..and as with aftermarkets, there isnt a rubber damper to reduce the sound. the sound and sensation is actually the rough contact between the chain and the sprocket. they gave the chain a bit more slack, a good clean-up and the sensation and sound has reduced significantly, albeit still there. 2 main factors: chain a wee bit tight, and hyper-sensitivity on my own end!

 

But it's nothing major.. *phew* I heart my revo even more now!!

 

thanks @ramsnake et. al.

 

Good aftermarket front sprockets don't come with rubber dampers because they are already well balanced. I've used Honda front sprockets with the dampers and the dampers broke roughly 3,000km from new.

 

BTW, what about your speedo needle? Didn't have that checked?

[killjou]

Thanks ramsnake!

 

Kelena good to hear nothing serious with your bike. Ain't cheap to repair a revo. I guess it's my turn to go workshop for a check!

[kelena]

  ramsnake said:

It's great that you have the issues solved.

The brake levers should have a enough of travel for 2 reasons:

- so that you can just "feather" the brakes for light deceleration; and

- so you don't accidentally lock up the front wheels in times of emergency.

I mostly brake with two fingers. So as a guide I make sure that when I depress the levers, it doesn't go all the way in and touch my last two fingers on the handle bar. That should be enough travel.

 

 

 

Good aftermarket front sprockets don't come with rubber dampers because they are already well balanced. I've used Honda front sprockets with the dampers and the dampers broke roughly 3,000km from new.

 

BTW, what about your speedo needle? Didn't have that checked?

 

ahh! shoot. I forgot about the needle! thanks for reminding, it was because of dirt. Beats me why dirt would be there in the first place. As the bike show signs of bring dropped prior, the meter could have been damaged. So while being changed out, some dust got between the crevice.. That's why it got stuck. The mechs disassembled the meter and gave it some compressed air cleaning.

 

As for the brake lever, my travel is the same as yours..i use 2 fingers to brake, and the last 2 fingers are not touching the levers, but slightly brushing when I'm on gloves. (i have very thick ones).

 

@killjou, yeah. I'm very glad the mechs solved my issues (Speedo, Alignment, Brakes, chains)! I have been bugging them a great lot, but they were very very patient..

 

The bike's perfect now, at least for me!

[kelena]

  ramsnake said:

It's great that you have the issues solved.

The brake levers should have a enough of travel for 2 reasons:

- so that you can just "feather" the brakes for light deceleration; and

- so you don't accidentally lock up the front wheels in times of emergency.

I mostly brake with two fingers. So as a guide I make sure that when I depress the levers, it doesn't go all the way in and touch my last two fingers on the handle bar. That should be enough travel.

 

 

 

Good aftermarket front sprockets don't come with rubber dampers because they are already well balanced. I've used Honda front sprockets with the dampers and the dampers broke roughly 3,000km from new.

 

BTW, what about your speedo needle? Didn't have that checked?

 

ahh! shoot. I forgot about the needle! thanks for reminding, it was because of dirt. Beats me why dirt would be there in the first place. As the bike show signs of bring dropped prior, the meter could have been damaged. So while being changed out, some dust got between the crevice.. That's why it got stuck. The mechs disassembled the meter and gave it some compressed air cleaning.

 

As for the brake lever, my travel is the same as yours..i use 2 fingers to brake, and the last 2 fingers are not touching the levers, but slightly brushing when I'm on gloves. (i have very thick ones).

 

@killjou, yeah. I'm very glad the mechs solved my issues (Speedo, Alignment, Brakes, chains)! I have been bugging them a great lot, but they were very very patient..

 

The bike's perfect now, at least for me!

[killjou]

Just checked with unique. The mechanic tested my revo and says my chain is too dry and dirty. All other stuff wise is normal as my chain still has plenty of life. Just need to take extra care for it, cleaning and lubricating it.

 

Guess I'm over sensitive! Or maybe I should spend the chain set money on scottoiler

[xiaoyuer1988]

bros, is it we only can pump vpower @ the malaysia custom shell? or we mus tel the pump attendant?

[Muge]

I pumped ron95 at petronas a few days back.

no problem.

[desmondband]

Need some opinions here

 

just serviced my bike (oil, coolant, plugs, filter). However, the bike heat like become hotter.. to the extent i can feel my bum is burning..

 

check my coolant and eo level, nothing wrong.. do you guys' bike heat up to the extend?

 

heard that Revo is famous of that comparing to other vtec models..

[ramsnake]

  kelena said:

The bike's perfect now, at least for me!

 

  killjou said:

Just checked with unique. The mechanic tested my revo and says my chain is too dry and dirty. All other stuff wise is normal as my chain still has plenty of life. Just need to take extra care for it, cleaning and lubricating it.

 

Guess I'm over sensitive! Or maybe I should spend the chain set money on scottoiler

 

I used to clean manually with kerosene/water mix (50%) when washing my bike (every 2-3 weeks in crappy weather or once a month). After the chain is completely dry, I manually re-lubricate.

 

I now use scott oiler. Cut my chain maintenance time to only 5 mins cleaning it when I wash. No need kerosene too! It's a good investment as you could keep the unit if you upgrade to another chain driven bike.

 

If you manually lubricate your chain, it is recommended that you re-lubricate every 500km. Best to lubricate a clean chain.

 

  xiaoyuer1988 said:

bros, is it we only can pump vpower @ the malaysia custom shell? or we mus tel the pump attendant?

 

Legally, foreign registered vehicles are not allowed to pump RON 95 petrol in MY but it's not really enforced. Many people, including me, get away with pumping 95 petrol.

 

  desmondband said:

Need some opinions here

 

just serviced my bike (oil, coolant, plugs, filter). However, the bike heat like become hotter.. to the extent i can feel my bum is burning..

 

check my coolant and eo level, nothing wrong.. do you guys' bike heat up to the extend?

 

heard that Revo is famous of that comparing to other vtec models..

 

Bum hot? That only happens if you bike has been under the sun for a long time... LOL

In heavy traffic and if your ride with your legs gripping or close to the tank, it can get hot on the inner thigh area.

 

Learn to ride with thighs slightly apart. You won't feel so hot then. While the Revo can feel hot there are many bikes out there that run hotter.

[killjou]

Seems like scottoiler is a good choice.

But I definitely need to clean the chain first. Can I use WD40 and water to clean it?

[f-50evolution]

  killjou said:

Seems like scottoiler is a good choice.

But I definitely need to clean the chain first. Can I use WD40 and water to clean it?

use kerosene or chain cleaner. dont use wd40

[afi1605202481]

@a'fi Have you tried asking Boon Siew if they can diagnose what's wrong rather than guessing? Maybe they have the diagnostic equipment they can just plug the bike in to see what's wrong.

 

@ramsnake, i called boon siew and yes they do perform diagnostic test at $40/hr max of $320.. So ex.. Been thinking of asking planet to check my fuel pump later...

[desmondband]

  ramsnake said:

Bum hot? That only happens if you bike has been under the sun for a long time... LOL

In heavy traffic and if your ride with your legs gripping or close to the tank, it can get hot on the inner thigh area.

 

Learn to ride with thighs slightly apart. You won't feel so hot then. While the Revo can feel hot there are many bikes out there that run hotter.

 

hmmm.. my is hot at the bum area, aka the cushion.. not the tight area.. in normal cool weather at the mid of the journey..

 

i feel unusual cause before servicing didn't feel that hot, it just happen after it..

 

or am i thinking too much?

[Ah Pek]

  desmondband said:

hmmm.. my is hot at the bum area, aka the cushion.. not the tight area.. in normal cool weather at the mid of the journey..

 

i feel unusual cause before servicing didn't feel that hot, it just happen after it..

 

or am i thinking too much?

 

Likely unsuitable EO and coolant or coolant capacity below specs.

[azman ibrahim]

hey bro, u know where to get chain cleaner? and how much?

  f-50evolution said:

use kerosene or chain cleaner. dont use wd40

[revoltElastico]

Hey guys, just yesterday when i started my bike i heard a 'hissing' sound that doesnt go away even after i continue riding. any bros have such experiences before and can share what might be the cause? the hissing sound is exactly the same as the sound when your meter sweeps before you electronically start the bike. the high pitch 'eeeeeeeee'. i suspect it might be something to do with electronics because when i on the hazard light or signal, the 'eeeeee' sound changes pitch. Pls advise..

 

Thanks bros.