All about Steed

[plasticblackspecs]

Your engine combustion rate not high, you use high octane fuel eg V power etc also no use, doesn't really burn properly, so you'll end up having a lot of wasted, unburnt fuel, and pay more money for petrol. Hence your manual states the recommended range to be 92 or 95. Bigger bikes or cars like Ferrari etc's manuals all state recomended fuel Oct 95 or 98 for example. That's what someone told me.

 

So save money pump 92 or 95, wnless you go up north refuel la. heee

[kittosoft]

dun feel any difference with 95 or v-power. our old bikes dun need V-power imho. just enjoy the ride

[returner]

anyone can tell me how to open the seats?pleae.

[Terrible One]

anyone can tell me how to open the seats?pleae.

 

2 screws under the seat,in btw the rider and pillion pad. Unscrew them and pull the seat towards the rear upwards. U'll find ur fuel filter,fuel pump and some relays there. Can adjust ur rear shock also if u have the tool

[jiansheng]

Hi,

dunnoe if this was posted, I find it pretty interesting for VLX.

 

http://vlxdiagrams.20m.com/

 

[MUSHA]

dun feel any difference with 95 or v-power. our old bikes dun need V-power imho. just enjoy the ride

 

V-power is just a Designer Fuel.

[madman]

i using 92 in SG when no choice got to pump, else, it's V-power from jb.

 

best way to save petrol is not to wach the bike la, slow acc up...

[madman]

Hi,

dunnoe if this was posted, I find it pretty interesting for VLX.

 

http://vlxdiagrams.20m.com/

 

 

hey, nice site, so any one drill the baffles b4? like to hear how it sounds.

 

or u guys completely got rid of it?

[Sprint74]

Usually the mech will whack a steel rod into the exhaust. Drill only if wana completely remove the silencers, then the exhaust VERY loud. Or can spend abt 250 go to Rosli and mod the exhaust to get bassy sound, 1st motor also does it but dunno sound how. Mine was knocked through all the way by previous owner with a small diameter rod so sound not VERY loud. Quite happy with it. Terrible One heard it before,TP drive beside me also heard it before...but never stop me...

[madman]

i tot of drilling it myself, maybe 3 or 4 holes.

 

prob is i dun know how to rejet the bike...hahaas...

[Terrible One]

i tot of drilling it myself, maybe 3 or 4 holes.

 

prob is i dun know how to rejet the bike...hahaas...

 

U will need 140jets if u mod ur exhaust to become more free flowing. I think I saw u yesterday at TPE exit. Ur pillion using some kinda US Air force design helmet right?

[madman]

U will need 140jets if u mod ur exhaust to become more free flowing. I think I saw u yesterday at TPE exit. Ur pillion using some kinda US Air force design helmet right?

 

that'll be me, yes.

[jiansheng]

I had the habit of opening my throttle abit when i start my bike.

 

My steed just had its carb washed at planet ($60), FC still like 18km/ltr... sadded...

 

Engine oil, plugs just changed like 2 months ago.

 

Mine has this problem, when u rev and release, it would not return to idling speed immediately after you release. it will take 1 - 2sec to slowly go back to idling speed. Throttle not stuck. throttle cable just change too.

(dunnoe if you guys know what i am toking abt).

 

Relate to the above problem, new finding is that after i open my throttle, it will accelerate and then at a point it will suddenly get fast. its like normal acceleration, then stop accelerating then suddenly pick up alot.

 

There was a mention of jet change...does jet change haf the mention symptom too?

[aaa3237]

Hi I dun think there is any spring inside. If got spring, might as well change a strong spring, why add oil, right?

I think the last batch of Steed Springers have spring forks to solve this fork oil maintenance issue. Just my 2 cents.

 

Spring for suspention, oil for damping(resistance), sometime gas is used for damping, sometime both. All suspention form by 2 main parts, be it car or bike, suspention or fork, use spring for suspention and oil(or gas or both) for damping. A suspention contain oil(or gas or both) only can not suspend, a suspention with only spring will send you to sky on bumpy road.

[econbizer]

TerribleOne: yup when I bought my bike, it came with a small windshield. I accidentally cracked it by resting my arm on it, while talking on the phone shortly after I bought it. =x

 

Sprint74: I modded my exhuast at F***t M*t*r (ubi ind. area) for near $150-200. I dun know exactly what they did to the exhaust, cos I wasn't there to see. They said they pulled out the muffler and sliced it up, then put it back and weld. The zhng sound was super loud initially. Then after awhile, either my ears became used to it, or the sound muted down a notch. It still sounds rather gd to me.

 

The sound is within 'can-pass' range. And how do I know? I just did my vehicle inspection & passed.. phew.. throttled dam slowly. If whack throttle.. sure dam obvious, exhaust zhnged. I saw how R***l* did an exhuast mod before. drill & cut the exhuast end to extract muffler, then throw away and replace with a customised piece of rod with holes drilled along the entire piece.

 

Since TerribleOne heard both your exhuast and mine, he'll be the man to ask for advice on where to mod, for what type of sound.

 

 

Question: I did regular servicing yesterday, and flushed the radiator. Haven't touched it since I bought the bike almost 1 yr ago. Seems like it was all water when it was drained. Is it healthy to use just water?

 

Another question I've got.. is if anyone ever resprayed their forks?

Edited August 23, 2009 by econbizer

[econbizer]

Relate to the above problem, new finding is that after i open my throttle, it will accelerate and then at a point it will suddenly get fast. its like normal acceleration, then stop accelerating then suddenly pick up alot.

 

There was a mention of jet change...does jet change haf the mention symptom too?

 

Maybe you can check your carburetor insulators (i.e. rubber seals). A mech I used to patronise showed me that the rubber had hardened up, and that might mean air leakage into the engine, hence less optimal combustion. I couldn't tell if my FC changed, cos I mod my exhuast at the same period. F***t M*t*r told me FC would pick up slightly after exhuast modification, at the expense of low end torque. Mechanical explanation.. I dunno. Anyone who does, please enlighten!

[Sprint74]

Terrible One told me to go to R***l* before. but I'm quite happy with my exhaust. If I ever mod, I'm going straight for Cobra or Vance and Hines... heeee

[MUSHA]

Terrible One told me to go to R***l* before. but I'm quite happy with my exhaust. If I ever mod, I'm going straight for Cobra or Vance and Hines... heeee

 

Or supertrapp...

[Terrible One]

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image143.jpg

 

paint remove my front fender,primed,sanded and now sprayed.. My rear fender had some damage due to fuel leakage.. Left side all rotted.. Borrowed a heat gun and shaped it back,putty and sanded for a smooth finish.. Front part had a crack. Got some leftover fiberglass exhaust wrap,cut it up and mixed with epoxy to repair it.. Saved me 40bucks if I were to repair that at First motor.. Plastic repair is fun,wanna learn how to weld plastic next.. Oh ya,time to learn how to fiberglass,need to finish the rear part of the fender..

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image166.jpg

 

Finished product.. Time to learn how to pinstripe to complete it..

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image168.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image167-1.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image169.jpg

 

Welded the bracket for the turn signals and tail light today.. Welding looks quite shitty,but it's only $8 so can't complain. Alignment is a bit off, need to do some correction tomoro if I have the time..

[X-ilED]

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image143.jpg

 

paint remove my front fender,primed,sanded and now sprayed.. My rear fender had some damage due to fuel leakage.. Left side all rotted.. Borrowed a heat gun and shaped it back,putty and sanded for a smooth finish.. Front part had a crack. Got some leftover fiberglass exhaust wrap,cut it up and mixed with epoxy to repair it.. Saved me 40bucks if I were to repair that at First motor.. Plastic repair is fun,wanna learn how to weld plastic next.. Oh ya,time to learn how to fiberglass,need to finish the rear part of the fender..

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image166.jpg

 

Finished product.. Time to learn how to pinstripe to complete it..

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image168.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image167-1.jpg

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k273/Riotbike/Image169.jpg

 

Welded the bracket for the turn signals and tail light today.. Welding looks quite shitty,but it's only $8 so can't complain. Alignment is a bit off, need to do some correction tomoro if I have the time..

 

 

 

hey good work on the progress but looking at your bracket pics i can see u are trying to do triangulation to strengthen it. if it is possible, u might wanna try welding the top piece of the bracket above the sub frame cross braces and not both underneath. that way u will have a stronger bracket as the load will be distributed across the subframe while still maintaining rigidity with your triangulated lower bracket.

[Terrible One]

hey good work on the progress but looking at your bracket pics i can see u are trying to do triangulation to strengthen it. if it is possible, u might wanna try welding the top piece of the bracket above the sub frame cross braces and not both underneath. that way u will have a stronger bracket as the load will be distributed across the subframe while still maintaining rigidity with your triangulated lower bracket.

 

Haha,can't.. Cos that part will get chopped soon.. The 2 pcs u see are actually sandwich another pc that is welded at both ends of the arc.. You can actually see a little burn marks if u look closely.. So that means if I cut off the middle part of the stock brace,it'll still be held on.. Save me the trouble of cutting and welding everything again when I decide to cut that part off..

[X-ilED]

Haha,can't.. Cos that part will get chopped soon.. The 2 pcs u see are actually sandwich another pc that is welded at both ends of the arc.. You can actually see a little burn marks if u look closely.. So that means if I cut off the middle part of the stock brace,it'll still be held on.. Save me the trouble of cutting and welding everything again when I decide to cut that part off..

 

 

i see.. i get what u mean. but do get that area welded up again once u cut off the arc. if i'm correct, the welding is only on the underside now. kiasu abit still pays off la.. haha

 

i think u are already aware of this but still have to remind u that prolly you needa keep checking your number plate mount from time to time .. that area when mounted like that will flap when u ride.. unless your arm is really thick lke at least 4mm or above kind then maybe it will be able to withstand the vibes if not.. that is a weak spot and is very prone to stress fracture. i learnt it the hard way from a similar previous set up using stainless and alu on 2 diff occasions... both my arms broke off... maybe if your design allows, u can try to weld 2 more rods at both the ends of the number plate mount to that crossbar u welded jus further up form it.it should relieve some stress of the flat bar.. other than that. it should do well for its purpose i guess.

[Terrible One]

i see.. i get what u mean. but do get that area welded up again once u cut off the arc. if i'm correct, the welding is only on the underside now. kiasu abit still pays off la.. haha

 

i think u are already aware of this but still have to remind u that prolly you needa keep checking your number plate mount from time to time .. that area when mounted like that will flap when u ride.. unless your arm is really thick lke at least 4mm or above kind then maybe it will be able to withstand the vibes if not.. that is a weak spot and is very prone to stress fracture. i learnt it the hard way from a similar previous set up using stainless and alu on 2 diff occasions... both my arms broke off... maybe if your design allows, u can try to weld 2 more rods at both the ends of the number plate mount to that crossbar u welded jus further up form it.it should relieve some stress of the flat bar.. other than that. it should do well for its purpose i guess.

 

Yeah,that's wat I'm gonna do.. Trying to figure out how to bend round tubes into nice arches so I can strengthen both sides.. I think the weight lifting logs at the fintess corner downstairs might just do the trick..

 

Wanted to make something the the R6 mounts,just dun have the time yet.. looks nice and stiff

[Terrible One]

fiberglass patched the hole left by the original tail light.

[TheYasMan]

Where can we get them fibreglass kits and are they expensive? I'd like to try it man.