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Posted

Hi, sorry but please pardon me as im not good in the bike maintainence.

 

Recently, i felt that my vtec3 have been giving me a some sort different sound from engine n exhaust. felt that the sound became 'rougher' and like got air leaking. Moreover, its fitted with yoshi firespec endcan. It shouldnt sound like that as the 'real yoshi sound' is not heard.

 

Also, while cruising the poor exhaust n engine became more obvious and its not as smooth as usual.

One more thing, is my idiling rpm at bout ~1.4krpm normal ? seems a bit high but when i tune to 1k. it will EASILY die off.

 

hope u guys can understand my abv statement hehe..

 

PLEASE HELP fellow bros.. :giddy:

WE LOVE BASS

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Posted

About the idling rpm, according to the user manual for spec 3, it should be 13.5k rmp plus minus, so it's normal.

You don't know the limit of your bike until you crash it, otherwise you are just not trying hard enough:angry:

Posted

go to a shop n check.

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted
About the idling rpm, according to the user manual for spec 3, it should be 13.5k rmp plus minus, so it's normal.

 

13.5k rmp?? are u referring to 1.35k?

ride safe today,ride again tomorrow

Posted
Hi, sorry but please pardon me as im not good in the bike maintainence.

 

Recently, i felt that my vtec3 have been giving me a some sort different sound from engine n exhaust. felt that the sound became 'rougher' and like got air leaking. Moreover, its fitted with yoshi firespec endcan. It shouldnt sound like that as the 'real yoshi sound' is not heard.

 

Also, while cruising the poor exhaust n engine became more obvious and its not as smooth as usual.

One more thing, is my idiling rpm at bout ~1.4krpm normal ? seems a bit high but when i tune to 1k. it will EASILY die off.

 

hope u guys can understand my abv statement hehe..

 

PLEASE HELP fellow bros.. :giddy:

 

Try not to do anythng "hardware"..try liquid engneering first. Use X-1R in your eo and "Green oil" premix in your fuel. Check the non vtec thread for more info especially the link to site video clips :angel:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

hi 'ah pek', sorry. i cld not find the above matter u are referring.. can further elaborate..many thanks.

if i just change EO, any chance it will retrify the matter?

and also wad u meant by the 'green oil' premix to the petrol ? sounds like 2t to me alr... =]

WE LOVE BASS

Posted
hi 'ah pek', sorry. i cld not find the above matter u are referring.. can further elaborate..many thanks.

if i just change EO, any chance it will retrify the matter?

and also wad u meant by the 'green oil' premix to the petrol ? sounds like 2t to me alr... =]

 

This is the link to the product..

 

http://www.x1r.com/videoclips11.htm

 

 

This is the thread spread acrossa few page...do check the page b4 and after this link..

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115583&page=78

 

I can't vouch for the one selling at Autobac in Bukit Batok East as they are repack in mAlasia..the one I have is direct from USA and its a 3-in-1 concentrated.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

those friction eliminator oil..doest work with motorcycle or car ..unless ur vehicle is made in year 1950s...

 

those in chemical engineering care to give explanation...for me i studied mechanical and got a syllabus on oil in machine.. from wat i knew ..those friction eliminator will make newer engine to spoilt faster..

Posted
those friction eliminator oil..doest work with motorcycle or car ..unless ur vehicle is made in year 1950s...

 

those in chemical engineering care to give explanation...for me i studied mechanical and got a syllabus on oil in machine.. from wat i knew ..those friction eliminator will make newer engine to spoilt faster..

 

wow.. that's interesting... care to explain how it effect the newer engine ?

 

and may be difference engine from 1950's and 2000's ...

 

i'd appreciate ur input from a mechanical engineer...

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/th_twins.jpg
Posted

haha ..i'm not engineer la ...just a normal machinery technician ..that was long time ago..now doing other things in different field.... from wat i google, same facts mention on the machine dated 1950s, its like a history for mechanical tech to know :

 

Chlorinated Additives.

 

A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:-

 

1)They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.

 

2)They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)

 

3)X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.

 

4)When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.

 

5)Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.

Posted

how come TS dun wanna approach a mech to diagnose the prob?

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted
haha ..i'm not engineer la ...just a normal machinery technician ..that was long time ago..now doing other things in different field.... from wat i google, same facts mention on the machine dated 1950s, its like a history for mechanical tech to know :

 

Chlorinated Additives.

 

A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:-

 

1)They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.

 

2)They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)

 

3)X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.

 

4)When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.

 

5)Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.

 

that's interesting, however, many jargons that layman like myself needs explanation. such as current engine/pistons' metal and corrosions..

anyway, i'll try to do some research based on ur facts... thanks bro.

:thumb:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/th_twins.jpg
Posted
hi bros,

 

in addtion, can it be foul or wet sparkplugs?

but i change not long ago...

 

Not at all and it's the least you can worry about. Its okay if you want to add on to it...four ozs the most or if you have the patient with your current 'problem'...bear with it till the next change. There are quite a few user just at on to it and was please to hear what they have to say. Anyway..its your decision..am just suggesting and trying to help. I don't work for X-1R or neither promoting the product. I have been using it for the last 12 years from cars to motorcycles and there are lot more people out there doing it..those who play "performance".

 

This is year 2008 and people has already landed on the moon way back with NASA endorsement of this X-1R in their program. Its the only product that have received the Space Foundation/ NASA Space Technology Hall of Fame where Supporting material - such as technical papers and product literature - submitted for review will be assessed for completeness. Candidate technologies will then be submitted to a prestigious panel of judges and ranked according to the Space Technology Hall of Fame Selection Criteria. Top-ranked candidates will then undergo a due diligence process.

 

History has it says about "oil additives" but there is a word call "revolutionary". There is a start to everything to reinvent the wheel..some fail some successful..we are not in 1950 so said..this is 2008 and we are talking about a product that has been currently use and still extending its capability to many other uses beside car, motorcyle, industries...etc.

 

Its race proven in NASCAR, ARCA, IMSA, Dyno Proven and endorse by the American Motorcycle Institute...not some mototiam in Bukit Merah or Jln Eunos. Its a NON PTFE product.

 

I can go on but like I say earlier...I ain't a piad X-1R saleman doing pitching sales here but rather providing help and sharing what I know that can help the community here. My 11 years old to be PB1 is a living example of X-1R finest poduct (been using it for the last 6 years) and all my previous cars ahd great resll values because of it.

 

To clear your conscience, I may suggest best that you do some research like what Kmax is gonna do or or better still, send your doubts or questions to right to X-1R for answers..instead of making baseless claims that is "presumtional" without facts that is of current vadility.

 

It be great that what spoken here about X-1R be posted to them for clarification.:cheeky:

 

Soree fpr the lenghtly post..but if you want to know further..do a Google such and see how X-1R is doing world wide and how it's expanding. This post is long enough for me to write on.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

its true that chlorinated addictives wreck engine components in the long run.

 

any prove that "X-1R and its clones" are the ones that contain such harmful addictives? would like to know more too..

 

i guess only a Laboratory OIL analysis on the product can conclude as to whether such(or for our case X-1R) 'friction' eliminating treatments do contain chlorine.

 

i did Liquid Chromatography before last time.. but totally forgot all the stuff. =/

Two Wheelers By Choice!

 

Ride Right to Live.

Posted
13.5k rmp?? are u referring to 1.35k?

 

Yeah, haha, sorry bro, typo error.

You don't know the limit of your bike until you crash it, otherwise you are just not trying hard enough:angry:

Posted

im really thankful for the help on liquid engineering tho it sounded deep for me.

will do a research and opinions before deciding on the product.

still im having heartache on my current bike situation as i have bought this bike not long ago.

 

as i mention whether the problem can be caused by wet or foul sparkplugs because i read from the forum that it MAY cause combustion thingy in result the sound.???

 

ANY MORE HELP !! ??? =[

 

will do a update if the problem is sovled to help the community.. THANKS AGAIN!

WE LOVE BASS

Posted

Bro I got encounter this problem before. I went to my regular mechanic, he rode a few rounds to test my bike. Then he return and told me that i need to change my spark plugs. After that my bike is normal again!

VODKA Rain

 

If your latest plan seems absent of me... There is nothing I can do...

Posted

troubleshooting always starts from the easiest to the hardest to the impossible. i'm very surprised how come the liquid engineering comes into picture. sound different n smoothness can b caused by very thick oil or dirty oil, plugs over use n due for change, poor air quality or low air flow due to air filter dirty, inaccurate firing due to irregular air flow or dirty fuel. recommand to service altogether to get optimum result.

 

adding X-1R, personally i dun recommand. reason is simple. 1st, the main problem is not being diagnosed n rectified. u do not wan any other problem surfacing n add on the the problem on top of the current situation. X1-R is another ABC product to me. i'll not add something unknown to me to the vehicle.

 

ultimately its up to individual. wat i say may not sound logical to some ppl though.

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted

:)

i'll not add something unknown to me to the vehicle

 

Aiyah...not "ABC" product lah...like that S4 also "DEF" liao!...buy one and use it lah..then you know mah :cheeky: ..don't use sure don't know and cannot recommend mah. I used for so long and still do..that's why I share it here lor.:angel:

 

The product has been so long on the market you dunno mei..look see look see you know more more :angel: ..try la

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi, sorry but please pardon me as im not good in the bike maintainence.

 

Recently, i felt that my vtec3 have been giving me a some sort different sound from engine n exhaust. felt that the sound became 'rougher' and like got air leaking. Moreover, its fitted with yoshi firespec endcan. It shouldnt sound like that as the 'real yoshi sound' is not heard.

 

Also, while cruising the poor exhaust n engine became more obvious and its not as smooth as usual.

One more thing, is my idiling rpm at bout ~1.4krpm normal ? seems a bit high but when i tune to 1k. it will EASILY die off.

 

hope u guys can understand my abv statement hehe..

 

PLEASE HELP fellow bros.. :giddy:

 

 

leak air might be ur exhaust not properly secured. idling ard 1.2k rpm is good.

when air leaks ur bike will lose power. rough sound, maybe an EO n plug change might hepl but check ur pipe n exhaust headers for air leakage first.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/ghost_04_/SIN%202009/4748b439-d86b-4bf3-a212-e1be01c6664c.jpg

stay calm and carry on...

Posted

Hi, i have actually check my headers n pipe plus the linkage, there are highly no signs of leaking... unless is those super small holes.

 

As for my idling, its 1.45k - 1.5k rpm man! if i set lower, when i clutch in when riding, it will stall. ??

WE LOVE BASS

Posted
Hi, i have actually check my headers n pipe plus the linkage, there are highly no signs of leaking... unless is those super small holes.

 

As for my idling, its 1.45k - 1.5k rpm man! if i set lower, when i clutch in when riding, it will stall. ??

 

Aiyoh_yoh...my 11 yrs old PBq1 is idling at 0.5 to 0.8..cannot die one leh...must be X-1R lor...heeee....x3!:angel:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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