Aprilia Riders

[lacrimosae]

I have joined the dark side.i went premix!

 

Sent from my HTC Hero using Tapatalk

 

^5 premix ftw!!!

 

Finally!

^5 premix!

 

Time to experience the acceleration revolution!

[mesab0ogie]

quick question. is throttle stop screw = idle screw?

[martiana]

Is your RS

 

Regardless, the frequency of valve breaking on of both yours and d other bike may be of another reason.

 

The valve seat on the top block may have worn.

Hence, your valve seat in the block may be subjected to more vibration and extensive high rev-ing increases this vibrancy. Thus, the breaking.

Most pay lil attention to this because it's not so noticeable.

End result? u'll be changing the valve over n over.

To elaborate further, I'd rather share it over kopi sometime soon.

I'd hope for you it's just the valve, but if it breaks the 2nd time within the near future, you may wanna consider what I just said about the block.

 

Hi, I had the same prob and even worse. Brand new valve was broken in 2 months. And i found the valve seat is worn, as you said. If the new valve is broken again, do i have to change the whole block?

[crisisady]

Guys, these few "mornings" I'm starting to use choke to start the bike. Previously there wasn't a need. Is there any issues I should be aware of?

[Sub Zero]

Anyone knows where to buy 06' onwards headlight bulb? I think it's h11. Bought 2 sets at race work and it's not bright at all as it's 35w.

 

I'm looking for white colour.

 

Hmm, got ripped off at RaceSuckz? Nothing new. 1 word. Mustafa.

[Sub Zero]

Hi, I had the same prob and even worse. Brand new valve was broken in 2 months. And i found the valve seat is worn, as you said. If the new valve is broken again, do i have to change the whole block?

 

You have no choice but to change to a brand new block, or a suitable condition 2ndhand block. Ask your mech to check it out 1st. It could be your riding style also that broke the valve.

[Feelicks]

carb mite need washing... tried a change of plug?

[mesab0ogie]

Update on my bike :

 

Just fitted a pipercross cone filter on the carb 15mins ago. Went for a spin. Not much difference from totally open pod, but can feel theres a slight drop in the pull of the bike when i go WOT.

 

With regards to the bogging of the bike at 5-6k rpm, i found out that its weather dependent. Runs fine in early morning when bike is not totally warmed up, and middle of the night. Same prob as my old 28mm carb. So im guessing the circuit is too rich somewhere. Might tinker with needle position this wkend.

 

Intending to do a plug chop run but im afraid the bikes running too lean. IIRC running on a 140 something jet. Gona double confirm again this wkend when i take out the carb. Thing is the bike runs very well from 1-4krpm, 7-11k rpm. So im gona take back my statement about it being way off from being perfectly tuned. Just need a little work and some fine tuning. FC seems to be an improvement. Bike has run 110km of riding(mixture of short bursts of high revving and normal 8k rpm cruising) since my last "fill to the brim" petrol trip to JB, and it looks like theres still more than half petrol in the tank. On old carb, reserve indicator will come on at 160km. Will monitor the petrol futher and update.

 

Btw lawrence, is the DIY session an ok go? Got tons of qns to ask u =P

[martiana]

You have no choice but to change to a brand new block, or a suitable condition 2ndhand block. Ask your mech to check it out 1st. It could be your riding style also that broke the valve.

 

tks. my mech told me and i also checked it. i bought the bike for 2 mths, and usually i keep rpm between 5k-7k while riding on street because i used to ride sp. is that too low which broke the value?

also, just changed to 34mm stock carb, now feel crazy vibration when rpm reaches 7k which i didn't experienced when used 28mm carb. mech told me have to change something in the carb. what's wrong with it?

[xczxczxcz]

tks. my mech told me and i also checked it. i bought the bike for 2 mths, and usually i keep rpm between 5k-7k while riding on street because i used to ride sp. is that too low which broke the value?

also, just changed to 34mm stock carb, now feel crazy vibration when rpm reaches 7k which i didn't experienced when used 28mm carb. mech told me have to change something in the carb. what's wrong with it?

 

you've to ride @ higher rpm to keep the valve open,to prevent carbon deposit on the valve which will cause breakage. i suppose you didnt change the inlet manifold to fit the 34mm carb,which is a must when you change from stock to a 34mm carb. correct me if i'm wrong.

 

@mesab0ogie hope you're enjoying the airfilter. thanks alot for helping yst! will see you soon,hopefully.

[mesab0ogie]

you've to ride @ higher rpm to keep the valve open,to prevent carbon deposit on the valve which will cause breakage. i suppose you didnt change the inlet manifold to fit the 34mm carb,which is a must when you change from stock to a 34mm carb. correct me if i'm wrong.

 

@mesab0ogie hope you're enjoying the airfilter. thanks alot for helping yst! will see you soon,hopefully.

 

now can ride my bike with a peace of mind, knowing theres a filter there =) anyway have been reading up and i suspect that 90% chance is the battery problem. and the reason we push start and cannot start yest is probably coz the spark plug cap wasnt fitted properly and might have come off when we were pushing it. can try push start again if u wan, but make sure u eat first ah next time =P

 

Oh n good luck with ur TP =)

[martiana]

you've to ride @ higher rpm to keep the valve open,to prevent carbon deposit on the valve which will cause breakage. i suppose you didnt change the inlet manifold to fit the 34mm carb,which is a must when you change from stock to a 34mm carb. correct me if i'm wrong.

 

@mesab0ogie hope you're enjoying the airfilter. thanks alot for helping yst! will see you soon,hopefully.

 

brand new manifold is changed. But airfilter was removed by previous owner.

[martiana]

you've to ride @ higher rpm to keep the valve open,to prevent carbon deposit on the valve which will cause breakage. i suppose you didnt change the inlet manifold to fit the 34mm carb,which is a must when you change from stock to a 34mm carb. correct me if i'm wrong.

 

@mesab0ogie hope you're enjoying the airfilter. thanks alot for helping yst! will see you soon,hopefully.

 

brand new manifold is changed. But airfilter was removed by previous owner.

[martiana]

you've to ride @ higher rpm to keep the valve open,to prevent carbon deposit on the valve which will cause breakage. i suppose you didnt change the inlet manifold to fit the 34mm carb,which is a must when you change from stock to a 34mm carb. correct me if i'm wrong.

 

@mesab0ogie hope you're enjoying the airfilter. thanks alot for helping yst! will see you soon,hopefully.

 

brand new manifold is changed. But airfilter was removed by previous owner.

[lacrimosae]

quick question. is throttle stop screw = idle screw?

 

Yes.

 

Update on my bike :

 

Just fitted a pipercross cone filter on the carb 15mins ago. Went for a spin. Not much difference from totally open pod, but can feel theres a slight drop in the pull of the bike when i go WOT.

 

With regards to the bogging of the bike at 5-6k rpm, i found out that its weather dependent. Runs fine in early morning when bike is not totally warmed up, and middle of the night. Same prob as my old 28mm carb. So im guessing the circuit is too rich somewhere. Might tinker with needle position this wkend.

 

Intending to do a plug chop run but im afraid the bikes running too lean. IIRC running on a 140 something jet. Gona double confirm again this wkend when i take out the carb. Thing is the bike runs very well from 1-4krpm, 7-11k rpm. So im gona take back my statement about it being way off from being perfectly tuned. Just need a little work and some fine tuning. FC seems to be an improvement. Bike has run 110km of riding(mixture of short bursts of high revving and normal 8k rpm cruising) since my last "fill to the brim" petrol trip to JB, and it looks like theres still more than half petrol in the tank. On old carb, reserve indicator will come on at 160km. Will monitor the petrol futher and update.

 

Btw lawrence, is the DIY session an ok go? Got tons of qns to ask u =P

 

DIY on 3 Mar earliest. Am in the process of testing the new stainless steel exhausts and replica valves.

 

For cone filters or open pod filters, they are exceptionally sensitive to 3 factors:

 

Air temperature, air humidity, and barometric pressure.

 

Just a slight change in any of the three and you can throw your tuning guide out the window.

 

These high flow filters lack the resonance you benefit from using a stock airbox.

 

Stock airbox = stable; little to no change to carburetion throughout wide range of weather conditions and rev range. Great for city riding and occasional track use.

 

High flow filters = good flow for revs above 8,000rpm. Which makes it a must-have race mod. But poor performance in city riding, and extremely susceptible to slight weather fluctuations. Long story short, slight changes in weather conditions mean the carb needs to be re-jetted.

 

There is a reason why I've tried nearly all types of high flow filters available in the last 7 years and still have decided to go with the stock airbox, even for track use, and still keep to my 2:00min timing at PG.

 

As for the SS exhaust and replica valves, am going to complete testing soon.

 

Currently my girlfriend's and my bike are perfectly tuned, so no issues with slapping the exhaust on with minimal tuning, except for the main jet. But I do foresee some carburetion issues with bikes that are in poorer states of tune, ie too lean or too rich.

 

Initial tests on the bike shows marked improvement on acceleration from 3,500-7,500rpm. It literally pulls like a 154cc Polini. And I have used the 154 kit before with unsatisfactory results. This is a good thing for the SS exhaust. Beefy, torquey acceleration in mid range. No bogging.

 

Top end remains the same as Arrow and Gianelli, but am trying to squeeze more power out of the top by experimenting with different jets.

 

tks. my mech told me and i also checked it. i bought the bike for 2 mths, and usually i keep rpm between 5k-7k while riding on street because i used to ride sp. is that too low which broke the value?

also, just changed to 34mm stock carb, now feel crazy vibration when rpm reaches 7k which i didn't experienced when used 28mm carb. mech told me have to change something in the carb. what's wrong with it?

 

Shouldn't this question be directed at your mech? He's the one recommending the change of a particular 'something' in the carb.

 

you've to ride @ higher rpm to keep the valve open,to prevent carbon deposit on the valve which will cause breakage. i suppose you didnt change the inlet manifold to fit the 34mm carb,which is a must when you change from stock to a 34mm carb. correct me if i'm wrong.

 

@mesab0ogie hope you're enjoying the airfilter. thanks alot for helping yst! will see you soon,hopefully.

 

Can't see any connection between all of the things you've mentioned. Quite possibly whoever told you that whole chunk of cow manure was pulling it out of his arse.

 

Carbon build up is caused by overly rich carburetion. Too much fuel = incomplete combustion.

 

Even if you kept the revs high, carbon will still build up.

 

When you have a perfectly tuned bike, you can squeeze 35km/L even with track racing, you can change your spark plug once a year, maybe even less often, and do without cleaning the valve at all.

 

Or if you must, you'll see this on a valve uncleaned for weeks.

 

 

Lean mixture symptoms:

Edited February 22, 2011 by lacrimosae

[xczxczxcz]

now can ride my bike with a peace of mind, knowing theres a filter there =) anyway have been reading up and i suspect that 90% chance is the battery problem. and the reason we push start and cannot start yest is probably coz the spark plug cap wasnt fitted properly and might have come off when we were pushing it. can try push start again if u wan, but make sure u eat first ah next time =P

 

Oh n good luck with ur TP =)

 

oh well definately much safer than the custom made airbox! hmm spark plug CAP refers to the rubber piece that covers the spark plug right,if that is disconnected the spark plug wont fire? i'd give it a try again if i got time,if not just tow and get it checked. will just pray hard that is nothing major.. =/ hahahaha yst was damn wrong,suddenly chiong like that with no "petrol" inside -.- thanks & ride safe!

[lacrimosae]

oh well definately much safer than the custom made airbox! hmm spark plug CAP refers to the rubber piece that covers the spark plug right,if that is disconnected the spark plug wont fire? i'd give it a try again if i got time,if not just tow and get it checked. will just pray hard that is nothing major.. =/ hahahaha yst was damn wrong,suddenly chiong like that with no "petrol" inside -.- thanks & ride safe!

 

Increase in revs is a sign of leanness. If your rpm does not drop after you close the throttle, you carburetion at that throttle opening is too lean.

 

1/4 = idle

1/2 = atomiser / needle

3/4 = needle / main

WOT = main

[AEoM]

Just went to the bike shop to see the progress of my bike.

 

Changed gear box, Overhaul the whole damn thing including washing of valve, gasket, bearings and lots of ****.

 

Total dmg - $1000/- pain...

 

Collecting the bike tmr.

[xczxczxcz]

Increase in revs is a sign of leanness. If your rpm does not drop after you close the throttle, you carburetion at that throttle opening is too lean.

 

1/4 = idle

1/2 = atomiser / needle

3/4 = needle / main

WOT = main

thanks lawrence for your carb tuning info,will learn more when i join future diy sessions. which you mentioned will be earliest 3rd march,hope my bike and license is ready by then.. and sorry for providing the wrong info,as stated "correct me if im wrong" so thanks for the correction.

[dDtim]

Just went to the bike shop to see the progress of my bike.

 

Changed gear box, Overhaul the whole damn thing including washing of valve, gasket, bearings and lots of ****.

 

Total dmg - $1000/- pain...

 

Collecting the bike tmr.

 

Hopefully the problem lies within your scope of fixtures and you'll be able to pull above 135 now. Should have changed one item at a go though, probably save you some money in the expense of time

[dDtim]

Could use some troubleshoot to my bike as well:

 

Inability to throw clutch, if I attempt to throw it will stall at gear one. Other gears are fine though. If I release it abit faster the bike will slow for about half a second before power kicks in again, I've been riding on gear one with my clutch at biting but that affects my pick up drastically.

[martiana]

 

 

 

Shouldn't this question be directed at your mech? He's the one recommending the change of a particular 'something' in the carb.

 

 

Hi, lacrimosae. what i want to say is, it seems not normal that the bike vibrates heavily when rpm reaches 7k after changing to 34mm carb. And i doubt by changing 'something' in the carb will resolve the issue. Simply because the stock 34mm carb is supposed to work well without changing anything extra. So i want to get more opinions why it is so.

[lacrimosae]

Hi, lacrimosae. what i want to say is, it seems not normal that the bike vibrates heavily when rpm reaches 7k after changing to 34mm carb. And i doubt by changing 'something' in the carb will resolve the issue. Simply because the stock 34mm carb is supposed to work well without changing anything extra. So i want to get more opinions why it is so.

 

The 34mm carb is not meant to work immediately after installation without tuning.

 

Every cylinder's ports are slightly different. Every bike has its own little quirks.

 

I'm reluctant to share my carb settings because what works well on one bike may not for another. And I do not want to be blamed for the failures of your mechanics.

 

Even the VHSB 34mm flat slide carb which is most commonly used by RS125 is different from the VHSH 34mm flat slide racing carb with the alloy slide cap. And the jets used must be customised to that particular bike it is installed on.

 

Invest in the time and effort to tune your bike, and you will be duly rewarded. Take short cuts and you will never see the true potential of your bikes unleashed.

[martiana]

The 34mm carb is not meant to work immediately after installation without tuning.

 

Every cylinder's ports are slightly different. Every bike has its own little quirks.

 

I'm reluctant to share my carb settings because what works well on one bike may not for another. And I do not want to be blamed for the failures of your mechanics.

 

Even the VHSB 34mm flat slide carb which is most commonly used by RS125 is different from the VHSH 34mm flat slide racing carb with the alloy slide cap. And the jets used must be customised to that particular bike it is installed on.

 

Invest in the time and effort to tune your bike, and you will be duly rewarded. Take short cuts and you will never see the true potential of your bikes unleashed.

 

tks for the advice. I am very new to DIY, so i can only watch and learn when my mech doing the job. Looking forward to attend the coming DIY session with u.

 

Btw, one more silly question, for DIY session, i have screwdriver, pliers, wrenches, but where can buy degreaser and solvent? specific shop or location will be appreciated.

[AEoM]

Hopefully the problem lies within your scope of fixtures and you'll be able to pull above 135 now. Should have changed one item at a go though, probably save you some money in the expense of time

 

If I change one by one they have to keep opening up the engine, which means I have to keep changing gasket, labour and stuff which cost more. So I rather one time pain.