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Posted

WOW the mech told me to change every 1kkm, and oil filter together cause 4stroke big bore must take care,

i think i will do it at 1.5kkm haha

21 dec 2009 - Class 2b

21 feb 2010 - NSR 150SP FT7058L (SOLD on 23rd dec 2010)

08 oct 2010 - Class 3

12 Jan 2011 - Gsxr 400RR FM9135X (SOLD on 5th Mar 2011)

27 Jan 2011 - Class 2a

16 mar 2011 - X1-R FBE1069X (SOLD on 30th Sept 2013)

07 June 2013 - Class 2

05 Oct 2013 - Gsxr600 k8

 

1377324_10151734614953002_668866713_n.jpg

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Posted
Just changed my tires to Michelin Sporty 70/90 front 90/80 rear, is there some sort of handling difference if my front is 80/90 instead?

 

http://www.yokohama.com.au/tyretips/tyre_specs.aspx

Basically u have wider Nominal section width (Surface Area).

Dun think it will affect how on handling but I will prefer a wider tyre that my bike allows.

X1-R 2010 model

Star Brake Lines

K&N Air Filter

EzzyOiler

Fuel Consumption Excel File (Update columns in blue), download @ http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38849257/Fuel%20Consumption-20120222-154031.xls

Posted

Xue ling, U still wif x1r uh? Me gsr for nw.. Some chnge to spec 3 n etc...

Posted
Xue ling, U still wif x1r uh? Me gsr for nw.. Some chnge to spec 3 n etc...

 

ya, i still riding my x1-r. was thinking of changing to spec 3 but currently studying so no money. lol

18/10/07 - 19/08/08 : Honda NSR150 SP

21/08/08 - 24/09/09 : Honda Wave S 125

02/10/09 - 22/02/12 : Yamaha X1-R

09/04/12 - 13/02/15 : Kawasaki Ninja 250R

24/12/14 - 24/02/16 : Honda Wave R 125

29/06/16 : Honda MSX 125

 

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/edalpha/DSC00291-1.jpg

Posted
i think the pricing is ok. my fren told me that x1-r conrod is not cheap, he did an overhaul for $500+. that was 1 year plus ago

 

X1r conrod is only $90 nia..

It's labour u sud be worry..

 

Since overhaul, I suggest go to your most trusted mechanic..

Do one time heavy overhaul and get the performance back aight..

Problems arise from advancement of technology - it causes unnecessary misunderstanding among us humans.

Posted
u guys big bore already getting wad fc?? 1 tank can go how many km??

 

When you want to do big bore. You shouldnt be thinking of fuel consumption already.

Posted
u guys big bore already getting wad fc?? 1 tank can go how many km??

 

I'm getting 26-29km/ltr, mine is the worst of the lot. :cheeky:Gonna go for tuning when time permits.

Posted
When you want to do big bore. You shouldnt be thinking of fuel consumption already.

 

if the consumption is too bad.. then it defeats the purpose of cubs already mah... cos currently i am getting abt 45-50km/l... if drop till 35km+-/l den not much diff can consider...

Posted
if the consumption is too bad.. then it defeats the purpose of cubs already mah... cos currently i am getting abt 45-50km/l... if drop till 35km+-/l den not much diff can consider...

 

FC is definitely going to be affected greatly. Higher Performance=Higher Fuel and Air combustion=More Petrol is needed to move the bike. It is impossible to have a high performance bike that doesnt gun down petrol. The day you started to think to mod your bike is also the day you should be ready to give up your current FC. If there are riders who says their big bore kit saves more petrol than stock. Thats way out of the possible equation. THats why most ppl will tell you 'Stay Stock If You Want a Bike That Save Petrol'

Posted
FC is definitely going to be affected greatly. Higher Performance=Higher Fuel and Air combustion=More Petrol is needed to move the bike. It is impossible to have a high performance bike that doesnt gun down petrol. The day you started to think to mod your bike is also the day you should be ready to give up your current FC. If there are riders who says their big bore kit saves more petrol than stock. Thats way out of the possible equation. THats why most ppl will tell you 'Stay Stock If You Want a Bike That Save Petrol'

 

well said...but some people always wants the best of both worlds lol

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast

Posted
FC is definitely going to be affected greatly. Higher Performance=Higher Fuel and Air combustion=More Petrol is needed to move the bike. It is impossible to have a high performance bike that doesnt gun down petrol. The day you started to think to mod your bike is also the day you should be ready to give up your current FC. If there are riders who says their big bore kit saves more petrol than stock. Thats way out of the possible equation. THats why most ppl will tell you 'Stay Stock If You Want a Bike That Save Petrol'

 

well, mayb u don understand where i'm going.. anyway u got ur point..

Posted
well, mayb u don understand where i'm going.. anyway u got ur point..

 

Liangzai, i got your point. I can understand where you are getting at. You want good performance and also to get at least 150km per 4 litres tank. Things are not that simple. You only get 150km full tank when you dont stress the engine. I travelled upnorth frequently with my X1R. On the highway at 100kph, my full tank can only cover 140km, in singapore i can go 180km. I was in your shoe before. Seeing that i have to keep spending money on my X1R just to get the bike right on track again, i stopped the modification. I rather save up the money and get a performance built bike. Every rider has that speed demon inside. When you have power at hand, you will use it. If your bike can travel 110kph and more. Will you just stick with 90kph? When you do, you feel you are underutilizing the bike performance and wasted all the money spent. When you dont and go fast, you stress the engine and the fc just isnt there anymore.

 

Bike modification is not that simple and cheap. By just doing big bore kit, the mod is not enough to give you a stock level of 35km per litres and performance. What you asked for cannot be achieved by just installing a big bore kit and thats the end. There is an ENDLESS chain of mods to ensure that your bike can run SAFELY while performing up to your expectation. This is just on mods and we havent touch on maintenance costs yet.

 

Instead of spending all these monies and time on mods and you dont fully use them anyway. Invest your time to go touring with your moped.Go explore malaysia thailand instead. See the world and go where your bike can bring you. Riding is not just about mods

Posted
Liangzai, i got your point. I can understand where you are getting at. You want good performance and also to get at least 150km per 4 litres tank. Things are not that simple. You only get 150km full tank when you dont stress the engine. I travelled upnorth frequently with my X1R. On the highway at 100kph, my full tank can only cover 140km, in singapore i can go 180km. I was in your shoe before. Seeing that i have to keep spending money on my X1R just to get the bike right on track again, i stopped the modification. I rather save up the money and get a performance built bike. Every rider has that speed demon inside. When you have power at hand, you will use it. If your bike can travel 110kph and more. Will you just stick with 90kph? When you do, you feel you are underutilizing the bike performance and wasted all the money spent. When you dont and go fast, you stress the engine and the fc just isnt there anymore.

 

Bike modification is not that simple and cheap. By just doing big bore kit, the mod is not enough to give you a stock level of 35km per litres and performance. What you asked for cannot be achieved by just installing a big bore kit and thats the end. There is an ENDLESS chain of mods to ensure that your bike can run SAFELY while performing up to your expectation. This is just on mods and we havent touch on maintenance costs yet.

 

Instead of spending all these monies and time on mods and you dont fully use them anyway. Invest your time to go touring with your moped.Go explore malaysia thailand instead. See the world and go where your bike can bring you. Riding is not just about mods

 

well, guess i just go get another class2 bike instead... anyway thks for ur suggestion..

Posted
Sorry to side track.. Quick question, have you guys experienced weird noises coming from your battery area when your battery is weak??

 

When you battery is weak, there are few signs

 

1. When you press starter switch. It doesnt work or take alot of tries.

2. The signal lights will not work and if it works, there is a weird zzzzz sound from the dashboard.

3. If you are using aftermarket horn, the sound becomes very weak. Worse than stock.

Posted
When you battery is weak, there are few signs

 

1. When you press starter switch. It doesnt work or take alot of tries.

2. The signal lights will not work and if it works, there is a weird zzzzz sound from the dashboard.

3. If you are using aftermarket horn, the sound becomes very weak. Worse than stock.

. My lights are dim, including dashboard.. Only got kickstart, can start n ride, but there is dis light thudding/choking sound from near the front part of the seat. Near carburetor n battery area..

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