[Technical] Queries for TA200

[sawfly]

hi guys, i had this question on my mind regarding running the bike for extended period of time and overheating..

 

basically i've been stuck out in traffic for over an hour and the bike was running real hot after that.

after which, the pickup of the bike for the next few days seems to be slower than when i usually do fresh change of eo.

does it imply the eo has broken down if i operate the bike too long and too hot?

if that's the case, does engine compression suffer as a result of thinner oil?

 

prior to this, i usually change the eo after 1500km mark after feeling the same effects, except this time that this change in bike performance was much earlier due to the heavy traffic i was in a few times / and the hot weather.

im currently using chex9000 regularly and did an overhaul some where in sept.

 

anyone have an opinion on this and also anyway to reduce the overheating of the bike over long rides in start stop traffic?

also anyone faces such issue and what do u do to get about this?

 

and...on a totally unrelated topic.. how often the clutch plates get changed? =X

[ezzyoiler]

once the bike overheat....it is never the same again...

thats why people qeuing at the icq switch off and push their bikes...they know better..

 

when bike overheats....all the components gets hit...and their performance and reliability sucks...

not only the rings...bearings, seals...wires .. anything inside/outside engine ...etc....it sucks....

and the worst case...it smokes and catches fire..

[p1auge]

Hi all im new here.

 

Does anyone has any idea if there are any customised helmet locks around for ta200?

 

I cant use the stock ones as the side boxes taking up the space and I dont plan to put up a top box.

 

 

Any clues anyone?

[p1auge]

Hi all im new here.

 

Does anyone has any idea if there are any customised helmet locks around for ta200?

 

I cant use the stock ones as the side boxes taking up the space and I dont plan to put up a top box.

 

 

Any clues anyone?

[sawfly]

once the bike overheat....it is never the same again...

thats why people qeuing at the icq switch off and push their bikes...they know better..

 

when bike overheats....all the components gets hit...and their performance and reliability sucks...

not only the rings...bearings, seals...wires .. anything inside/outside engine ...etc....it sucks....

and the worst case...it smokes and catches fire..

 

Im curious on would i know if I overheat on a bike like phantom without a temp gauge and is air cooled? also when yr stick in start stop traffic on the expyway the cooling effect is reduced.. any tips about it other than LS?

 

im still curious on how bad the oil will break down when stuck in this situation. .

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[fairSquare]

hi guys, i had this question on my mind regarding running the bike for extended period of time and overheating..

 

basically i've been stuck out in traffic for over an hour and the bike was running real hot after that.

after which, the pickup of the bike for the next few days seems to be slower than when i usually do fresh change of eo.

does it imply the eo has broken down if i operate the bike too long and too hot?

if that's the case, does engine compression suffer as a result of thinner oil?

 

prior to this, i usually change the eo after 1500km mark after feeling the same effects, except this time that this change in bike performance was much earlier due to the heavy traffic i was in a few times / and the hot weather.

im currently using chex9000 regularly and did an overhaul some where in sept.

 

anyone have an opinion on this and also anyway to reduce the overheating of the bike over long rides in start stop traffic?

also anyone faces such issue and what do u do to get about this?

 

and...on a totally unrelated topic.. how often the clutch plates get changed? =X

 

 

i think ezzyoiler mistaken overheating and overhauling. anyway, phantom's heat is quite normal, and gets hotter depending on what EO you used. try something else other than chex9000. don't use full-syn.

 

I only changed my eo between 3000-5000 for my TA200. Chex 9000 makes changing gear rough at around 1300-1500. I don't like it.

 

Also I get burn marks on my both legs thanks to ta200. i rode it for 6 years+.

[naim]

I rly dont tink the oil will break down in that situation. Synthetic oil especially is very resistant to breaking down and tolerant even at extreme temperatures. Nt sure hw good d chex is. Maybe try diff EO first?

 

I personally used mobil 1 v-twin 20w50. Aircooled harleys use it w/o issues in super hot summers. I dont tink our puny 200cc's heat can destroy the oil. Wen engine overheat, definitely power drops abit, but i doubt will have any permanent effects.

[Hydher]

Definitely! You are not wrong about oil and overheating.

 

With the phantom, YOU CAN FEEL THE DIFFERENCE from varying EO.

 

You are to change oil often when riding in extreme conditions(like whats written on the manual)

 

on my ta days,

I would Change my oil at 1500km Check dipstick at 500km and 1000km mark.

You can feel the bike getting crappy, gears getting hard to shift, engine sound getting louder etc etc and it messes with your head at night and drive you insane right @naim?

 

Generally

10w40 would mean the charateristics(eg thickness) of the oil is 10 when it is cold and 40 when it is hot(forget the temp)

This 20w50 would mean less cold protection but better hot protection.

 

Okay after years and many oil changes, semi,mineral and fully syn, it would also matter WHAT BRAND YOU ARE USING. A MOTUL fully syn and some crappy off the shelves fully syn are worlds apart.

[naim]

Yup dats y i suggest try change EO first. Duno hw many brands i go thru alr. Hahaha. Most synthetics shud be good enuf, but some are priced high for a reason. Most importantly, is change often. 1500km as mentioned by @Hydher is just right. Same as i did.

[sawfly]

i think ezzyoiler mistaken overheating and overhauling. anyway, phantom's heat is quite normal, and gets hotter depending on what EO you used. try something else other than chex9000. don't use full-syn.

 

I only changed my eo between 3000-5000 for my TA200. Chex 9000 makes changing gear rough at around 1300-1500. I don't like it.

 

Also I get burn marks on my both legs thanks to ta200. i rode it for 6 years+.

 

i agree on the part for the 1300-1500 part.. hence i always changed after the 1500km part 'cos its enough to frustrate me. was chex much more less heat tolerant than the other eo used? probably not about the eo breaking down but probably due to evaporation? i always find some eo gone under heavy slow stop traffic conditions and the reduced engine power.

 

I rly dont tink the oil will break down in that situation. Synthetic oil especially is very resistant to breaking down and tolerant even at extreme temperatures. Nt sure hw good d chex is. Maybe try diff EO first?

 

I personally used mobil 1 v-twin 20w50. Aircooled harleys use it w/o issues in super hot summers. I dont tink our puny 200cc's heat can destroy the oil. Wen engine overheat, definitely power drops abit, but i doubt will have any permanent effects.

 

Definitely! You are not wrong about oil and overheating.

 

With the phantom, YOU CAN FEEL THE DIFFERENCE from varying EO.

 

You are to change oil often when riding in extreme conditions(like whats written on the manual)

 

on my ta days,

I would Change my oil at 1500km Check dipstick at 500km and 1000km mark.

You can feel the bike getting crappy, gears getting hard to shift, engine sound getting louder etc etc and it messes with your head at night and drive you insane right @naim?

 

Generally

10w40 would mean the charateristics(eg thickness) of the oil is 10 when it is cold and 40 when it is hot(forget the temp)

This 20w50 would mean less cold protection but better hot protection.

 

Okay after years and many oil changes, semi,mineral and fully syn, it would also matter WHAT BRAND YOU ARE USING. A MOTUL fully syn and some crappy off the shelves fully syn are worlds apart.

 

the cold protection for 20w50 would be less important for sg climate i guess? or is the cold protection refering to the the initial warmup from start? and YES it messes with my head as well when the bike behaves different from fresh eo change when its early into the OCI..

 

Yup dats y i suggest try change EO first. Duno hw many brands i go thru alr. Hahaha. Most synthetics shud be good enuf, but some are priced high for a reason. Most importantly, is change often. 1500km as mentioned by @Hydher is just right. Same as i did.

 

i definitely would change the eo to isolate the issue.. just that its only 800+ km into my oil change and i felt leceh to do oil change due to my work schedule.. im considering btwn belray thumper and the mobil v twin since my cylinder was rebored before so maybe i hv to consider more on semi synth as well..

good advice there from all though!

[Hydher]

Personally feel that with 10w40, my bike starts up better and runs faster.

Yes some say to ignore the front rating in SG but i dont agree.

 

Here is the video i took during room temperature.

 

Err, you can consider schaffer from mxtrading.com if youre a diy person.

Ive tried belray thumber semi b4 and its good.

mobil v twin abit ex for me.

 

Learn to diy lah. I will make a video for eo change soon ok

[osxunix]

I now using Bardahl since Agip no more and it's surprising good for my Phantom.

In hot afternoon surprising smooth now 2k still going strong very happy I found another suitable EO for my bike

 

SynMoto 4 Fully Synthetic (SAE 10W50)

Approvals/Credentials: API SM, ACEA A3, JASO MA2

[sawfly]

Personally feel that with 10w40, my bike starts up better and runs faster.

Yes some say to ignore the front rating in SG but i dont agree.

 

Here is the video i took during room temperature.

 

Err, you can consider schaffer from mxtrading.com if youre a diy person.

Ive tried belray thumber semi b4 and its good.

mobil v twin abit ex for me.

 

Learn to diy lah. I will make a video for eo change soon ok

 

eh. mxtrading.com not working leh.. ill oil change myself once i find the correct size spanner for my drain plug.. its bigger than 22'!

 

and if the oil flow so slow at room temp, isnt it going to take a longer time for the engine to warm up with a slower flow rate through the oil pump?

 

the front rating would be a trade off i guess.. and i think im turning this thread into eo discussion sia..

 

I now using Bardahl since Agip no more and it's surprising good for my Phantom.

In hot afternoon surprising smooth now 2k still going strong very happy I found another suitable EO for my bike

 

SynMoto 4 Fully Synthetic (SAE 10W50)

Approvals/Credentials: API SM, ACEA A3, JASO MA2

 

looks good.. where u got it from?

[naim]

Yah IIRC its like in between 23-24. Can use 24, but be careful not to round the head. I last tym changed my drain bolt, and the head is 17mm. Much better!

[Spark_135]

Currently when i wait very long at a junction or jam, i will switch off the engine. Air cooled engine overheats very easily when bike is stationary with engine on for long periods of time. This is because the engine needs air flow around it to carry the heat away, unlike cars and some radiator fitted bikes that have fans that runs and cool the coolant when bike is stationary. Once i took EDRC at SSDC and one of the instructors parked his bike (Honda CG125, air cooled) but did not off the engine. It left running for 10mins and soon the bike engine was smoking. Then he off the engine lol. Well that's the down side of air cooling. Good side is, low maintenance, no need worry coolant pump failure, radiator leak, coolant loss and such.

[sawfly]

Yah IIRC its like in between 23-24. Can use 24, but be careful not to round the head. I last tym changed my drain bolt, and the head is 17mm. Much better!

 

im missing that 23' spanner! my 22 wont fit.. actually my initial drain plug was 17 but it was replaced cos the bolt head was rounded off.. where did u buy your drain bolt?

 

Currently when i wait very long at a junction or jam, i will switch off the engine. Air cooled engine overheats very easily when bike is stationary with engine on for long periods of time. This is because the engine needs air flow around it to carry the heat away, unlike cars and some radiator fitted bikes that have fans that runs and cool the coolant when bike is stationary. Once i took EDRC at SSDC and one of the instructors parked his bike (Honda CG125, air cooled) but did not off the engine. It left running for 10mins and soon the bike engine was smoking. Then he off the engine lol. Well that's the down side of air cooling. Good side is, low maintenance, no need worry coolant pump failure, radiator leak, coolant loss and such.

 

eh.. smoking from where? now i keep moving in slow tight traffic just to get the air flowing pass the fins.. for me turning off the engine at the junction probably wont do much for me unless im like stuck in town traffic for prolonged period.. i remb just going into a carpark to shutdown and look at the map while getting the engine chill!

[naim]

Try FJT. I got my 17 one from thr. Eversuccess sold me the 24mm one.

[sawfly]

Try FJT. I got my 17 one from thr. Eversuccess sold me the 24mm one.

 

great! i've a a bigger problem though.. the engine seems to be losing more power and today when i revved it to check i see white smoke and its only after i close the throttle! i just replaced the piston rings 3 mths back!

[naim]

great! i've a a bigger problem though.. the engine seems to be losing more power and today when i revved it to check i see white smoke and its only after i close the throttle! i just replaced the piston rings 3 mths back!

 

chill dont panic so quickly. could be as simple as water in your tank. monitor over the next few days. try running ur tank to almost dry, or if u knw hw to, can drain it then fill it with fresh petrol.

 

i knw other parts of the engine oso can cause this. if im not wrong, valve stem seals oso can leak EO into the combustion chamber. just ensure that ur EO not depleting. cause if its thru piston ring, cfm deplete very quickly.

[sawfly]

chill dont panic so quickly. could be as simple as water in your tank. monitor over the next few days. try running ur tank to almost dry, or if u knw hw to, can drain it then fill it with fresh petrol.

 

i knw other parts of the engine oso can cause this. if im not wrong, valve stem seals oso can leak EO into the combustion chamber. just ensure that ur EO not depleting. cause if its thru piston ring, cfm deplete very quickly.

 

i got my eo replaced yest with motul factory line ester to try leh.. although now so bad the bike still feels underpowered.. anyway when the eo was draining there wasnt much loss either! if there's water and u run until dry, how u get the water out? and if its valve issues isnt it going to be another overhaul again?

[sawfly]

also lets just say now the throttle feels spongy i.e. to say i need to roll on more just to get up to speed.. the clutch plates are 4 mths old and this spongy feeling is there even revving at neutral?

[naim]

EO not much loss? wat u mean? yala. if valves, means need to open up again.

 

spongy throttle response could be ur carb tuning. usually too rich.

[sawfly]

EO not much loss? wat u mean? yala. if valves, means need to open up again.

 

spongy throttle response could be ur carb tuning. usually too rich.

 

Not much loss I.e. it was not like before overhaul I was topping up by the bottle weekly?

 

If its carb tuning, it wouldnt happen suddenly after an hour of hot riding right?

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[naim]

Can. If wen not tuned well, the problems start to be more obvious wen d engine gets really hot

[projectyc]

Hi guys,

I'm new here. Just bought my Beloved Phantom a few days back.

However, when i was cruising at 80/90Km the engine seems to be very noisy, got the rattling sound and keep vibrating, got the 'dragging' gear feeling. Any idea what's the problem? i asked the mechanic at the SPC station at pasir ris there he told me needa change clutch plate for $85.