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CB250 Nighthawk, Following  

17 members have voted

  1. 1. CB250 Nighthawk, Following

    • Coe sufficient
    • Modding potential
    • Parts availability
    • Plugs change frequency
    • Engine oil type and change frequency
    • Lifespan of original parts
    • Flexibility of cheaper parts use
    • Moifying potential
    • Able to use any grade of petrol fuel
    • Potential for 4 rounds of COE
    • Easy to pass inspection
    • Low road tax
    • Daily ride potential
    • Low fuel consumption
    • Ease of maintenance
    • Ease of riding


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Hi all. Just have some enquires to make with the more senior people here. Is it normal for the fan to on after lets say about 10 minutes or so in moderate traffic on normal roads not on highway. And also i dont know if its a problem or not but after turning the ignition on, the light for the radiator does not light up where as everything else does. Would that be considered so called a sign to any problems related to the radiator. Currently riding a spec 3 and i got the bike about a month ago and so i'm quite unsure about some stuff. Would appreciate any advice given. Thanks in advance!

 

Looks more like a tell tale sign that trouble is coming as the fan shouldn't be coming on that often or sooner as per ur description. As for the temp light indicator..not sure about Spec 3 but for non Vetec bikes..its not on for self check like the oil temp light indicator. At any rate..the worst I can think of is that the buld or led for it may have multfunction.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Here's a link to JackUp video. JackUp able to support by spool/rearaxle and under swingarm for certain bikes.

 

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=SG#/watch?v=RjJ6g_SBqyo

 

 

Sent from my iTouch using Tapatalk

Don't make your life miserable, use the Jack-Up stand!

 

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576992_155356411270070_498222937_n.jpg

http://www.facebook.com/JackUpBike

Email: [email protected]

[VIDEO]

[/VIDEO]
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Hi... Has anyone installed a givi windshield on revo?

Bought a750 from shop as was told this fits revo but after I went home, realized it doesn't quite fit headlights bcos of the headlight bar supporting speedo and tacho.

Would anyone know if I need to mod or change the headlight so that it can fit?

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Hi,

 

My bike is a 2nd hand one, and the first owner dropped it on it's left. So what happens now is that when the wheels are aligned (i got a friend to stand well ahead and with me sitting on the bike) the handle bars are slightly off to the right.

 

I find it rather hard to steer (it keeps moving to the right) when I'm moving off, but at normal speeds, there are no steering issues, and the bike tracking straight.

 

It's just that when I look at the speedo, I can see the misalignment of the handle bars on my peripheral vision and it's quite irritating.

 

Hence, is there any way of setting the bike handle bars in alignment correctly, without costing a bomb?

 

Thanks all!

BMW R1200GSLC 2014 (20smiles/miles)

 

Mini Cooper S Clubman 2011 (10smiles/miles)

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Hi,

 

My bike is a 2nd hand one, and the first owner dropped it on it's left. So what happens now is that when the wheels are aligned (i got a friend to stand well ahead and with me sitting on the bike) the handle bars are slightly off to the right.

 

I find it rather hard to steer (it keeps moving to the right) when I'm moving off, but at normal speeds, there are no steering issues, and the bike tracking straight.

 

It's just that when I look at the speedo, I can see the misalignment of the handle bars on my peripheral vision and it's quite irritating.

 

Hence, is there any way of setting the bike handle bars in alignment correctly, without costing a bomb?

 

Thanks all!

 

Try releasing the four bolts from the fork clamps that holds bothe the upper fork section..than grip the front rims by clamping both leg knees facing the handle bar and straight align it..just like u do with a fallen bicycle. When finished..don't forget to tighten the four bolts that holds the fork. Gd lck.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Drop bike won't be so serious, maybe something else.

Need to do alignment.

Bring to expert and have a check.

 

Hi,

 

My bike is a 2nd hand one, and the first owner dropped it on it's left. So what happens now is that when the wheels are aligned (i got a friend to stand well ahead and with me sitting on the bike) the handle bars are slightly off to the right.

 

I find it rather hard to steer (it keeps moving to the right) when I'm moving off, but at normal speeds, there are no steering issues, and the bike tracking straight.

 

It's just that when I look at the speedo, I can see the misalignment of the handle bars on my peripheral vision and it's quite irritating.

 

Hence, is there any way of setting the bike handle bars in alignment correctly, without costing a bomb?

 

Thanks all!

LICENCES

class 2B: 07sep06 (cg125, nsr150, cbf150, x1r, ta200)

class 3: 30apr07 (Mitsubishi lancer, Nissan sunny, Toyota corolla, Volkswagen golf tsi)

class 2A: 27may08 (revo, vtec1, majesty250)

class 2: 08jun10 (fz6n, GSX-R600L4, tmax530)

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Hi. I'm new to super 4. I'm riding a spec 3. There is a sound difference when i clutch in and out. Is it normal? Plus, while i was riding around for about 20-30 min, my fan suddenly turned on. Is this common?

 

Fan turn on is good but too often..it's sign of overheating. As for the clutch sound..likely wear and tear issue and clutch housing..but if useable and not too disturbing..use it till it need replacement. Sometime..the noise is can be caused by quality of EO and biting point adjustment.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Try releasing the four bolts from the fork clamps that holds bothe the upper fork section..than grip the front rims by clamping both leg knees facing the handle bar and straight align it..just like u do with a fallen bicycle. When finished..don't forget to tighten the four bolts that holds the fork. Gd lck.

 

thanks Ah Pek. it sound like a good option. I'll have it done ASAP and report back here. =D

BMW R1200GSLC 2014 (20smiles/miles)

 

Mini Cooper S Clubman 2011 (10smiles/miles)

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Try releasing the four bolts from the fork clamps that holds bothe the upper fork section..than grip the front rims by clamping both leg knees facing the handle bar and straight align it..just like u do with a fallen bicycle. When finished..don't forget to tighten the four bolts that holds the fork. Gd lck.

 

thanks Ah Pek. it sound like a good option. I'll have it done ASAP and report back here. =D

BMW R1200GSLC 2014 (20smiles/miles)

 

Mini Cooper S Clubman 2011 (10smiles/miles)

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Drop bike won't be so serious, maybe something else.

Need to do alignment.

Bring to expert and have a check.

 

hmm, the alignment of the main body should still be proper, as the bike steers ok at speeds. nevertheless, I'll bring it over to my mech to have him take a look and see if it can be solved.

 

Thanks regardless.

BMW R1200GSLC 2014 (20smiles/miles)

 

Mini Cooper S Clubman 2011 (10smiles/miles)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, recently just got a spec 1 2nd hand. This is also my first bike so I am quite new. Hope some of the more experienced riders here can answer my questions...

 

1) When I first turn the key, the voltmeter is like 11.8V only, won't reach 12V. Start engine change to Gear 1 can shoot up to 13.1V. From what I heard, it should be around 12.1V? However after riding for a while then it will be stable on Neutral gear at 12.0V. Is this normal?

 

2) How long does it take for a chain to become loose? My mechanic told me very fast become loose, within a few weeks. Does this mean I have to tighten it every time it becomes loose or can I just ride with a loose chain? Will it damage the chain?

 

3) I recently used "Armor All Wheel Cleaner" and tap water to clean the chain (o-ring type) and used EO as chain lube but my mechanic advised me against it as it will damage the o-ring, and in turn damage the chain. Is it true? If so, is there a special type of chain cleaner for o-ring type chains?

 

4) When I turn the key, my tachometer (the one measuring rpm) does not run 1 round. Is this a major problem?

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Zarrias
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Hi, recently just got a spec 1 2nd hand. This is also my first bike so I am quite new. Hope some of the more experienced riders here can answer my questions...

 

1) When I first turn the key, the voltmeter is like 11.8V only, won't reach 12V. Start engine change to Gear 1 can shoot up to 13.1V. From what I heard, it should be around 12.1V? However after riding for a while then it will be stable on Neutral gear at 12.0V. Is this normal?

 

2) How long does it take for a chain to become loose? My mechanic told me very fast become loose, within a few weeks. Does this mean I have to tighten it every time it becomes loose or can I just ride with a loose chain? Will it damage the chain?

 

3) I recently used "Armor All Wheel Cleaner" and tap water to clean the chain (o-ring type) and used EO as chain lube but my mechanic advised me against it as it will damage the o-ring, and in turn damage the chain. Is it true? If so, is there a special type of chain cleaner for o-ring type chains?

 

4) When I turn the key, my tachometer (the one measuring rpm) does not run 1 round. Is this a major problem?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

1) Those so called bike voltmeter isn't that accurate. Can only be used as a gauge to see if your bike is charging properly e.g. Numbers increases when you rev the bike. Use a proper digital voltmeter to determine the actual voltage by measuring directly from the battery.

 

2) Depends on your riding style. Chain and sprocket can last pretty long if you maintain them. Just lube your chain every week and/or after you rode through a storm and of course, after you cleaned your chain.

 

You can always buy a Scott oiler V system and you don't have to bother to lube your chain unless you washed it. Am using it and it is the best add-on to my bike. Just remember to top up the oil every 2-3 months unless you are touring.

 

If you take good care of the chain, you probably only need to tighten it every 3 or more months?

 

Ask your mech how to check if the chain is too slack and you can monitor it on your own.

 

3) You can just use diesel and a toothbrush to clean your chain but you must remember to wash with soap, rinse it off with water and spray chain wax/lube.

Another plus point of having Scott oiler is that it keeps your chain relatively clean.

 

4) Spec 1's meter doesn't turn when you on the bike. Different 'technology' from spec 2/3/revo

 

I am riding a spec 1 too. :)

 

 

Sent from my GT-P7300 using Tapatalk 2

DIY instructions

VTEC indicator for CB400 - http://tinyurl.com/7gvy3vy

Replacement/Changing of T10 light bulbs for CB400's Meter - http://tinyurl.com/8624wsa

 

:bouncefire:

2006 Aprilia RS125(Sold)

2006 Honda Phantom TA200(Sold)

1999 Honda Super 4 Hyper VTEC(Sold)

2003 Honda ST1300A Pan European(Sold) :thumb:

2010 Kia Cerato Forte Koup(Current)

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1) Those so called bike voltmeter isn't that accurate. Can only be used as a gauge to see if your bike is charging properly e.g. Numbers increases when you rev the bike. Use a proper digital voltmeter to determine the actual voltage by measuring directly from the battery.

 

2) Depends on your riding style. Chain and sprocket can last pretty long if you maintain them. Just lube your chain every week and/or after you rode through a storm and of course, after you cleaned your chain.

 

You can always buy a Scott oiler V system and you don't have to bother to lube your chain unless you washed it. Am using it and it is the best add-on to my bike. Just remember to top up the oil every 2-3 months unless you are touring.

 

If you take good care of the chain, you probably only need to tighten it every 3 or more months?

 

Ask your mech how to check if the chain is too slack and you can monitor it on your own.

 

3) You can just use diesel and a toothbrush to clean your chain but you must remember to wash with soap, rinse it off with water and spray chain wax/lube.

Another plus point of having Scott oiler is that it keeps your chain relatively clean.

 

4) Spec 1's meter doesn't turn when you on the bike. Different 'technology' from spec 2/3/revo

 

I am riding a spec 1 too. :)

 

 

Sent from my GT-P7300 using Tapatalk 2

 

Wow thanks! That's a lot of useful information. Sorry if I'm asking too many questions...

 

Do you have any particular brand of chain wax/lube (what's the difference anyway?) to recommend? I guess I'll have to opt for the manual option as I believe the Scottoiler V System is quite expensive...

 

Also, how can I tell if the chain/sprocket is worn out?

 

Thanks again.

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Wow thanks! That's a lot of useful information. Sorry if I'm asking too many questions...

 

Do you have any particular brand of chain wax/lube (what's the difference anyway?) to recommend? I guess I'll have to opt for the manual option as I believe the Scottoiler V System is quite expensive...

 

Also, how can I tell if the chain/sprocket is worn out?

 

Thanks again.

Maxima chain wax not bad. Using for past two year and chain and sprocket still healthy.

Chain worn out when cannot tighten anymore.

Sprocket worn out when teeth broken.

Just sharing.

LICENCES

class 2B: 07sep06 (cg125, nsr150, cbf150, x1r, ta200)

class 3: 30apr07 (Mitsubishi lancer, Nissan sunny, Toyota corolla, Volkswagen golf tsi)

class 2A: 27may08 (revo, vtec1, majesty250)

class 2: 08jun10 (fz6n, GSX-R600L4, tmax530)

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Maxima chain wax not bad. Using for past two year and chain and sprocket still healthy.

Chain worn out when cannot tighten anymore.

Sprocket worn out when teeth broken.

Just sharing.

 

Okay thanks so much!

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Mobile Bike Cleaning and Grooming Services.

 

Will be providing cleaning and grooming services at your own convenience for $30/- (regardless all bike types).

 

Package includes:

1)Washing of bodywork and rims with Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner

 

2) Once dried up we will apply one coat of Autoglym Super Resin Polish and one coat of Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection to seal in the wax and to make sure the shine last longer.

*If necessary: If there are light scratches on the paintwork we will apply Mantis Scratch Remover.

3) Headers, chrome bits will be cleaned using F1 Cleaner to give it a lustre polish and shine and to remove rust if possible.

 

4)To end it all, the chain will be cleaned using GT85 Professional Maintenance Spray and lubed off with Maxima Chain Wax.

 

If interested do PM me, for arranging a convenient time. Thanks.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8932/kipstoboldorhi8.jpg

 

----------------------------------------

Kawasaki Krr-150 KIPS 31 May 2004 – 27 Jun 2006

Honda Super Bol’dor 27 Jun 2006 – Present

----------------------------------------

 

Life is like the number 8, it goes on and on and has its turns.

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