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CB250 Nighthawk, Following  

17 members have voted

  1. 1. CB250 Nighthawk, Following

    • Coe sufficient
    • Modding potential
    • Parts availability
    • Plugs change frequency
    • Engine oil type and change frequency
    • Lifespan of original parts
    • Flexibility of cheaper parts use
    • Moifying potential
    • Able to use any grade of petrol fuel
    • Potential for 4 rounds of COE
    • Easy to pass inspection
    • Low road tax
    • Daily ride potential
    • Low fuel consumption
    • Ease of maintenance
    • Ease of riding


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Posted (edited)

Need help. Im a noob abt this.

Planning to buy super 4. Went to survey

 

Spec 3. Coe 10 years $10500 and above

Spec 1. Coe 9/10 years $7000 and above.

 

Which one is better deal?

Edited by ministudio
  • Replies 2.5k
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Posted

You still need to see the condition of other parts bro, especially the engine, previous owner got overhaul?

 

Even a spec one can be better condition than the spec 3 if previous owner got take care properly.

 

How's about coolant hoses, all replaced?

 

Clutch housing? All okay?

 

Tyres condition?

 

Brake system? Brake pads? Brake disc? Brake hoses?

 

Wheel bearings? All replaced?

 

Carbs condition?

Posted

hi guys, I'm a newbie towards bike. i have been riding a 2B bike for 6yrs and now I'm waiting for my 2A tp.

was planning to change to super 4. but, i know too little thing about bikes. just wanna ask.

what is the diff between super 4 v-tec, spect 1, spect 2 and spect 3?

any diff? and which is better? pls give me so tips about super 4. thanks. :bow:

Posted

The problem seen to be the spark plugs. The electrode of the spark plugs was corroded which might explained the loss of power during riding . Strangely i have no difficulty in starting my bike with 1 or 2 start .

 

After changing the spark plugs 3 days ago , i do not experience the power loss issue or biks stall any more . *finger cross*

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Need some advise here as My bike stalled while riding on expressway today. It was my 2 times so far in this month . Fortunately the traffic is light for me on both ocassions for me to filter to shoulder to restart the bike .

 

It suspect that it might be the key ignition system that couldn't detect my key or my bike key may be faulty. Anyone experience this issue before.

 

After changing spark plug 2 weeks ago , my bike was relative smooth without any lost power during riding . I went back to bike shop last friday to change engine oil / flush coolent / clean engine filter . I thought the problem has solved completely .

 

Until Today .. while i was riding my bike to work , my bike stalled twice while travelling on expressway. This problem is getting a pain now.

Posted
After changing spark plug 2 weeks ago , my bike was relative smooth without any lost power during riding . I went back to bike shop last friday to change engine oil / flush coolent / clean engine filter . I thought the problem has solved completely .

 

Until Today .. while i was riding my bike to work , my bike stalled twice while travelling on expressway. This problem is getting a pain now.

 

Try doing these steps

1) Check and change your ignition key or entire ignition system if necessary

2) Check if there is a loose connection of your spark plug connectors or any loose or unsecured cables especially those responsible for the ignition. Live wires especially can caused such issues.

HyperDash with my ReVo CLAIRE

Posted
After changing spark plug 2 weeks ago , my bike was relative smooth without any lost power during riding . I went back to bike shop last friday to change engine oil / flush coolent / clean engine filter . I thought the problem has solved completely .

 

Until Today .. while i was riding my bike to work , my bike stalled twice while travelling on expressway. This problem is getting a pain now.

 

start with simple checks first. nxt time your bike stalls check if your side stand is fully kept. i experienced this once and after i stop over the roadside then i realise its my sidestand not fully brought up and it stalled cauz of auto cut off.

 

or you could try switching on and off your engine cut off switch a few times see if this helps at all.

2012 - 2015: Honda CB400 Spec3

Posted
Try doing these steps

1) Check and change your ignition key or entire ignition system if necessary

2) Check if there is a loose connection of your spark plug connectors or any loose or unsecured cables especially those responsible for the ignition. Live wires especially can caused such issues.

 

Actually my entire ignition system appeared to be semi-faulty . There are time when i insert the key in the ignition system to power up the bike, there is no electrical power. If i turn the key back and front , the electrical power came back .

 

Ah Chong from Pxxxxx eliminate this could be the root cause and suspect the issue could be from another components . If i changing the ignition system , the keys to start the ignition system / open petrol tank / open seat lock will be different . This is one of the reason which is holding me back from replacing this ignition system.

 

Do u experience this issue before ?

Posted
start with simple checks first. nxt time your bike stalls check if your side stand is fully kept. i experienced this once and after i stop over the roadside then i realise its my sidestand not fully brought up and it stalled cauz of auto cut off.

 

or you could try switching on and off your engine cut off switch a few times see if this helps at all.

 

 

Thank . I think i will try this next time .

Posted

Let me take a pic and let u see if u like it.http://zz.avedcomputer.com/7.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/9.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/8.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/10.jpg

Posted

involved in collision with the above motorbike on 30 sep,

the riders might be interested to have a private settlement.....

 

if anyone know the above rider... please ask him

sms whatapps me 86067868

 

http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad259/archilles1314/20140930_131540_zps9fe479f8.jpg

 

accident occurred at punggol exit to TPE (CTE) direction

 

so he could be staying around sengkang or punggol

 

thanks

Posted

Hi everyone, I'm Ahmed. Its my first time posting in a forum so thanks in advance for your patience.

I've recently bought a used 2009 CB400. Its my first bike and i love it.

Last week I took the bike to the mechanic due to a 'winding down' sound that happens in the front wheel as I bring the bike to a halt. The mechanic confirmed that the front disks where slightly bent and would need to be changed at the next service. OK.

But then he noticed oil leaking out of the left front fork assembly: near the dust seal and protector, and oil on the fork pipe. He said its a danger as oil might dribble down to front brake and compromise braking.:eek:http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/03/32f9bd94e036a5b6ac50c7e032b067fe.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/03/ab81e4d09560e079efae4d05b4a1e614.jpg He believes that the source of the problem is small nicks and indents in the pipe (possibly caused by bugs that smashed into the pipe during riding, and possibly corroded too)

The theory is during normal riding, the pipe compresses down into its case. the small dents on the pipe pass the oil seal and the oil pools in them. Then as the pipe decompresses and rises back up, the oil in these indents passes under the seal and brings oil out onto the exposed fork pipe.

Does this sound familiar to anyone other cb400 users. Has anyone had oil leakage in front suspension, left or right? Has anyone else got small nicks or indents from riding into bugs or something else?

Can I source the fork pipe and change it myself? I'm fairly hands on, and want to save money. Or is it better to buy the whole fork assembly and change the lot (more expensive, but no hassle with the internal parts of the suspension).

I'd be grateful to get other peoples experiences

Posted

I agree. Fork when braking is highly pressurised. Always service your fork regularly and always wipe it clean of rain water to prevent corrosion. If not once corroded, oil leak through the small dents

Posted

I lazy. I went bikelab change. Fork leak when I just got my bike abt 9 years ago. Still running good.

 

Fork was scratched before repair, but in the end fork was not changed, and now its still working fine.

Posted

fork oil "leaking" is normal after several years. in fact is not leaking but a sign for replacing the fork oil and assembly. i believed the compress and decompress motions dilute the fork oil that water and air formed speeding up corrosion. The dist between the small dots are quite high so once fork oil assembly is replaced, doubt that it will press into the assembly in normal riding, unless highly compressing due to emergency break and then collided onto hard surface.

Posted

Ok the same thing happened to me. But I had no issues with braking even with oil spill around the outer casing of the lower fork.The braking part is a scare by the shop to force you change a new fork top which would cost around $200. Try changing the oil seal if it helps but it will cost you $90 again . Other than loss of oil honestly there is no risk involved. But then the only fix is to replace the fork for the said price. DIY is no big deal if you have the tools, but definitely need a helping hand. Anyways it's a one time fix just change it in shop when finance permits.

FYI even I haven't still changed it yet ...lol.

Posted
Actually my entire ignition system appeared to be semi-faulty . There are time when i insert the key in the ignition system to power up the bike, there is no electrical power. If i turn the key back and front , the electrical power came back .

 

Ah Chong from Pxxxxx eliminate this could be the root cause and suspect the issue could be from another components . If i changing the ignition system , the keys to start the ignition system / open petrol tank / open seat lock will be different . This is one of the reason which is holding me back from replacing this ignition system.

 

Do u experience this issue before ?

 

have been riding for last 2 weeks ... no issues so far . Finger cross .

Posted

Thanks for responses so far.sirini, I think you are right, the shop is trying to get me to spend more money. Its not affecting breaking so far.

The dilemma is that there is a lot of labour involved in changing oil seal and top of suspension ( stantion ). If diy its cheaper but I don't have the tools and garage due to constant travel. Also, I'm a bit worried that leaking oil will lead to unbalanced suspension on the left side which might cause further damage to bike overall.

Does anyone know websties I can source cb400 parts for Australian cb400?

Thanks for your help so far guys :-)

Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

1) My cb400 date 2009 fuel tank has a big scratch on it. It will cost me about $500 for repainting. However, I found on Ebay a man who sells fuel tank of cb400 nc39 with exactly the same color and shape with my nc42.

 

My question 1st is does the fuel tank of cb400 nc39 fits cb400 nc42 date 2009.

 

2) My cb400 fuel bump has a really loud sound "eee..e..e.." during the running time just like when I opening the key for the first 2 3 seconds. The sound just start and keep going as soon as I start the engine and all the time when I am riding . It has happened for more than 2 months but my bike still working normally. Is it a problem?

Edited by scar1391
  • 4 weeks later...

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