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Honda ST1100


Simon Soh

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I am more worrying about if battery remove for long time, what will happen to those electronic device such as PGMI, ABS? :)

 

Hmm...

 

From Honda manual....

".....Your battery is a maintenance-f ree type and can be permanently damaged if the cap strip is removed.

Electrical accessories use current from the battery - even when the ignition is

OFF. Limited operation also allows the battery to discharge. If you have

electrical accessories on your motorcycle - or do not ride frequently, we

recommend that you charge the battery frequently (see Battery Charging, page 133 ).

If you do not expect to ride your motorcycle for at least two weeks, we

recommend you remove the battery - or at least disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first).

If you plan to store your motorcycle, see Battery Storage, page 131

If your battery seems weak and/or is leaking electrolyte (causing slow starting or

other electrical problems), see your Honda dealer.

WARNING: Battery posts, terminalsand related accessories contain lead and

lead compounds. Wash hands after handling......"

 

 

Should not be a problem my guess. Can wait for others opinion.

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Anyone knows where to purchase HEL stainless Steel braided brake and clutch hoses for DIY replacement?

 

just need the hoses. Intend to replace the stock brake hoses on my own.

 

Thanks

 

try small MAH motors opp sim lim. juz say u wan the hose, they sell diff length too. anyway never seen an st11 change hose before.. hehehe very rare!!!

 

Mr simon wanna change ride?? stx13 calling for u liao... hahahhaa :thumb:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

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Hmm...

 

From Honda manual....

".....Your battery is a maintenance-f ree type and can be permanently damaged if the cap strip is removed.

Electrical accessories use current from the battery - even when the ignition is

OFF. Limited operation also allows the battery to discharge. If you have

electrical accessories on your motorcycle - or do not ride frequently, we

recommend that you charge the battery frequently (see Battery Charging, page 133 ).

If you do not expect to ride your motorcycle for at least two weeks, we

recommend you remove the battery - or at least disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first).

If you plan to store your motorcycle, see Battery Storage, page 131

If your battery seems weak and/or is leaking electrolyte (causing slow starting or

other electrical problems), see your Honda dealer.

WARNING: Battery posts, terminalsand related accessories contain lead and

lead compounds. Wash hands after handling......"

 

 

Should not be a problem my guess. Can wait for others opinion.

 

Thanks bro... :thumb:

Have you installed the wire harness?

I have no time to go to Auto Barh to look for the connector.

Maybe can try FJT?

mctan

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Thanks bro...

Have you installed the wire harness?

I have no time to go to Auto Barh to look for the connector.

Maybe can try FJT?

 

_________________________________________________-

 

Setup! Not that difficult to open the fairings.Just a bit of practice and bright area. Autobacs not available and "Auto Barh" is in Germany..too far..Hehehhe.

I found out that the SUmitomo connectors are actually original Honda OEM connectors...Just go to your fav motordiam or car shop ...can just give them a small sum for 2nd hand unused connectors pulled out from old wire harness. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: .

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sold...........................

Edited by ab

Bike owned:-

Honda Rebel 125, Honda Phantom 150, Honda CBF 150,

Honda Super4 verS, Honda CB 750,

Honda ST1100 PE, Honda STX 1300,

PGO I-ME 150 Wel,

Yamaha X1, Yamaha Spark 135 LE, Yamaha MX135,

Yamaha Dragstar XVS 400 Classic, Yamaha XJ6 Diversion F,

Harley Nightster 1200

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Hi good morning all ST1100 riders.

 

Anyone with the electronic (soft) copy of the Honda factory service manual for ST1100? Care to share?

 

I'll bring my thumbdrive to your place at your convenience (after working hours) and teh tarik and prata on me.

 

Thanks alot in advance.

 

Here is the manual link..can download your own free time.

 

http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/arc/Honda_ST1100(A)_1996+_Owners_Manual.exe

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Any ST11 here with HEL brake hoses?

 

Most of the guys here on stock rubber hoses? The service manual recommends replacing the stock rubber hoses periodically, but did not state the time duration.

 

Looks like a good time to switch to stainless steel braided hoses after 8 years.

 

If you have just got the bike recently, try to learn the previous maintenance history.Maybe the $ for the braided hose can be use to replace other important parts.

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Thanks alot CBkooky,

 

I'm ditching the stainless steel braided hoses. Will be replacing just the master cylinder pump seals and caliper piston seals on the front/rear brakes and the clutch.

 

Thanks for the link and advice.

 

 

No problm.If you are changing the clutch plates, If the prev owner had not change the belting, you might as well have it change together. because when the mech remove your bike fairing, its gona be a very tedious process..and service charges are not cheap.

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Thanks brudder...you've been most helpful by providing the link...I'm sure many riders like me appreciate your nice gesture....:thumb:

 

No problm.Im sure others would have done the same.

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The clutch plates and timing belt has a lot of mileage left in them.

 

My ST11 has only 42000km and the previous seem like an honest guy, he confirmed that the odometer is the original one.

 

I'm tackling the brakes first as they are the most important function of any vehicle.

 

I'm shelfing the stainless steel brake lines because the I can't find a good way to anchor the aftermarket brake line. The original has a rigid crossover over the fender and the rear has a rigid section in the middle.

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bro,

 

Im ok lah.. Im still trying to find more time to keep up with my hobby & love. :smile:

 

hooooo hooo hooo.... ha ha Simon bro. rare to see here. So how's life bro? :)

Simon Soh

It's not the destination we conquered but ourselves.

 

Chiang Saen, Land of Golden Triangle

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5500744953_52f8f8de37.jpg

26th Dec 05' - 9th Jan 06' Northern Thailand Trip

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steel hose I reckon it will only serve good purpose for clutch, it wont do u any good if it's overly effective on a heavy STealth....

Simon Soh

It's not the destination we conquered but ourselves.

 

Chiang Saen, Land of Golden Triangle

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5500744953_52f8f8de37.jpg

26th Dec 05' - 9th Jan 06' Northern Thailand Trip

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steel hoses for the clutch line? I think it is an overkill.

 

The pressure built up in the clutch lines is only a fraction of that in the brake line. I reckon, as long as the hydraulic pressure is enough to pull the cltuch plates apart to disengage the crankshaft from the drivline and gears, it is good enough.

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I've just serviced my front brakes today, changed all piston seals, remove the dirt and grime from all brake parts, changed a new master cylinder rebuild kit. The original stock hose was retained.

 

The dis-assembly and cleaing of parts takes me 4 hours. Spend another 1 hour assemblig the parts plus careful application of grease on all moving and rotating parts.

 

Finally, the most dreaded task remains.. refilling all lines with brake fluid and bleeding air from the hydraulic system.

 

I did it the good old way, with ring wrenches and the front brake lever. Took me an hour to get everything right. This method required repeated pumping at the lever, I bet I pump at least 1000 times or more. There was no feedback on when the amount of fluid in the system. The lever feels almost nothing until the system is almost fully filled and the lever feel comes on very gradually. Discouraging when you have been pumping for 30mins and there is still no feel at the lever. There is just no indication on whether the system is filling up right. Fluid level in the reservoir drops is barely noticeable with 10pumps of the lever.

 

One thing i've learn during this exercise, it is good to not just bleed at the bleed nipple. Do one or two bleed at the banjo joints as air bubbles are also likely to be trapped there.

 

Now I have to do the rear brakes, same thing over again next weekend. This time, the foot lever is at the right and the caliper on the left. Is it realistically possible to pump the footlever and at the same time release the bleed nipple? Can a normal person reach the bleed nipple and banjo bolts and at the same time pump and hold the brake lever? This is the only manual way to do it without some kind of vacuum gadget.

 

If anyone has done it before and was successful, please let me know and I will give it a try next weekend. If a vacuum tool is necessary, I have to get one before I start. Don't want to be without the rear brakes for a week.

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the IU is indeed an ugly device.

if fitted on a harley, it will spoil the look

but fitted on ST still acceptable. just treat it as a gadget

 

maybe u can do a quick release bracket.

some people use the bracket for the bicycle headlight on the IU.

when not in need, just keep it in the front pocket

 

Hi,

 

I just fitted my IU with a connector where I just need to connect when I need to use it. I also use the 3M velcro to stick the IU unit to the clutch oil reservoir.

 

I am happy with it as it does not at all spoil the look of my ST.

 

 

Ayon

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