Jump to content
SingaporeBikes.com Telegram Now LIVE! Join NOW for the Last Reviews, News, Promotions & Offers in Singapore! ×
  • Join SingaporeBikes.com today! Where Singapore Bikers Unite!

    Thank you for visiting SingaporeBikes.com - the largest website in Singapore dedicated to all things related to motorcycles and biking in general.

    Join us today as a member to enjoy all the features of the website for FREE such as:

    Registering is free and takes less than 30 seconds! Join us today to share information, discuss about your modifications, and ask questions about your bike in general.

    Thank you for being a part of SingaporeBikes.com!

Honda ST1100


Simon Soh

Recommended Posts

IU to my knowledge has a built in battery and when disconnected from the main battery will last for about a month. If more then that the IU will not retain its memory and will become useless. Once that happen you cannot refresh its memory by charging it up again.

 

So you must charge up the internal battery if you do not want an expensive paper weight.

 

That what I been told. Anyone disagreed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 6.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi to all... a St11 newbie wannabe here... any shop to intro where u guys know that a few for sales? wish to find out more on st11... thanks in adv..

 

Can try getting from members here...some have good service records.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks bro...

Have you installed the wire harness?

I have no time to go to Auto Barh to look for the connector.

Maybe can try FJT?

 

_________________________________________________-

 

Setup! Not that difficult to open the fairings.Just a bit of practice and bright area. Autobacs not available and "Auto Barh" is in Germany..too far..Hehehhe.

I found out that the SUmitomo connectors are actually original Honda OEM connectors...Just go to your fav motordiam or car shop ...can just give them a small sum for 2nd hand unused connectors pulled out from old wire harness. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: .

 

Bro,

Yes, connect the wire harness is not difficult, difficult is to dismantle the fairingsss. But just too busy with travelling. The bike collects dust more than millage, so far only clock 1K+ km. :sian:

Any more accessories are you going installed other than the radio?

mctan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IU to my knowledge has a built in battery and when disconnected from the main battery will last for about a month. If more then that the IU will not retain its memory and will become useless. Once that happen you cannot refresh its memory by charging it up again.

 

So you must charge up the internal battery if you do not want an expensive paper weight.

 

That what I been told. Anyone disagreed.

 

Nope there is no internal batt or internal memory. Done that to my R1 IU before. No adverse effect. Btw, what internal memory u want it to retain??

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/AT5555r/EnforcerGTR.jpg

 

1999-2000 :: NSR125r

2000-2002 :: CBR400rr

2002-2005 :: YZF R1

2005-2006 :: SYM GTS

2006-2010 :: Honda STx

2010-2013 :: Kawasaki GTR1400

2013-2015 :: BMW GSA

2016- ???? :: BMW GSA LC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope there is no internal batt or internal memory. Done that to my R1 IU before. No adverse effect. Btw, what internal memory u want it to retain??

 

Yeap, no internal battery. My IU was not connected for months, no problem at all. The internal battery probably refers to the other type of bike IU for the small cc old bikes.

Psalm 144:3-4

O LORD, what is man that you regard him, the son of man that you think of him?

Man is like a breath; his days are like a passing shadow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oic... :cool:

 

steel hoses for the clutch line? I think it is an overkill.

 

The pressure built up in the clutch lines is only a fraction of that in the brake line. I reckon, as long as the hydraulic pressure is enough to pull the cltuch plates apart to disengage the crankshaft from the drivline and gears, it is good enough.

Simon Soh

It's not the destination we conquered but ourselves.

 

Chiang Saen, Land of Golden Triangle

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5500744953_52f8f8de37.jpg

26th Dec 05' - 9th Jan 06' Northern Thailand Trip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bro,

 

Your bike is '05 model or registered '05?

 

registered '05. Should be 05 model I think

:)

Bike owned:-

Honda Rebel 125, Honda Phantom 150, Honda CBF 150,

Honda Super4 verS, Honda CB 750,

Honda ST1100 PE, Honda STX 1300,

PGO I-ME 150 Wel,

Yamaha X1, Yamaha Spark 135 LE, Yamaha MX135,

Yamaha Dragstar XVS 400 Classic, Yamaha XJ6 Diversion F,

Harley Nightster 1200

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now I have to do the rear brakes, same thing over again next weekend. This time, the foot lever is at the right and the caliper on the left. Is it realistically possible to pump the footlever and at the same time release the bleed nipple? Can a normal person reach the bleed nipple and banjo bolts and at the same time pump and hold the brake lever? This is the only manual way to do it without some kind of vacuum gadget.

 

If anyone has done it before and was successful, please let me know and I will give it a try next weekend. If a vacuum tool is necessary, I have to get one before I start. Don't want to be without the rear brakes for a week.

exact same procedure for the front brakes. how much is the rebuilt kit?? consist of wad?? the whole piston and rubber seal??

 

most imptly if u wana maintain ur brake system, bleed the brakes every brakepad change. my dads st11 brake running very effective.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The master cylinder rebuild kit is around $25 for the front and rear brakes and also the clutch.

 

The kit consist of a spring, a cast aluminium piston, a spring pusher rubber, a piston rubber seal, c-clip, and a dust cover boot. The clutch kit comes with a flat washer as well.

 

I've replaced the front and clutch master cylinder kit.

 

Replaced the coolant since I have taken apart most bodywork. (extremely bad condition coolant in the reservoir, murky in the radiator).

 

Was about to do the same the rear brakes when I encounter a stripped cover nut that covers the brake pad retaining pins. I will need to engage help to remove this stuck cover screw. This screw served just dust protection purpose and the mechanic that does the pad change the other time for this bike over-tightened the cover screw, totally unneccessary work for me to get this screw off before I can access and remove the pad retaining pin.

 

The stopper bolt for the rear caliper hanger is also stucked. Going to get professional (bike shop) help to take both items apart before I can get to rear brake rebuild.

 

NExt up is the fork oil (most likely will leave it to a shop as I don't have a vice to clamp and release the drain bolt below), rear shock and fuel filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi veteran ST DIYers,

 

Can we remove the caliper from the caliper hanger bracket without removing the hanger braker from the swing arm and rear axle?

 

I intend to rebuild the rear caliper but I have trouble removing the 14mm hex stopper bolt that secures the rear caliper hanger to the swingarm.

 

Thanks alot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi veteran ST DIYers,

 

Can we remove the caliper from the caliper hanger bracket without removing the hanger braker from the swing arm and rear axle?

 

I intend to rebuild the rear caliper but I have trouble removing the 14mm hex stopper bolt that secures the rear caliper hanger to the swingarm.

 

Thanks alot.

 

had the same problem, send to bikeshop to have the bolt remove. i almost stripped the caliper stopper pin bolt and caliper pin bolt boot!! hahaha for the cap flat blade end. use wd40, wait for few secs and apply pressure to the screw driver cum turning it. need to use the proper size if not bye bye..hahahhahaa

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Funky chicken,

 

I'm prepared to drill a through hole into the plug and use a screw extrator bit to turn it out. Worst case scenario, I'll drill a smooth bore larger than the tapped hole removing the entire plug by drilling.

 

I'm a DIY because most repair and service shop will not bother with greasing or apply anti-seize grease to critical bolts that requires regular removal. Worst of all, in-experience mechanics will over-tighten bolts and screws leading to situation like this.

 

My rear side panel big head pan nut with philip head was stripped as well. There is absolutely not need to over tighten this particular screw as the panel is well held by the 3 rubber grommets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there,

there is quite a nice BB at Loois motor on the 3rd level. FBB plate.

 

jon

 

yup i saw that BB at Loois and nearly bought it...but in the end I couldnt get use to its bulkiness and settle for my all-time favourite naked.

 

but that BB is in really a superb condition. like new, mileage 9600km oni.

-BREMBO-

My Bike Blogs!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • DAIS_ShellBAU2024_Motorcycle_SingaporeBikesBanner_300x250.jpg

     
×
×
  • Create New...