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What would be the best 400cc scrambler?


ayoasti

What would be the best all-in-one Class 2A scrambler?  

116 members have voted

  1. 1. What would be the best all-in-one Class 2A scrambler?



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Thanks bro , its informative :D

U mentioned motard is shorter, as in the wheelbase? for sports bike the shorter the wheelbase the more stable the bike is during corners, same applies for scramblers ?

Lastly to convert say an offroad bike to a motard setup what is the extimated cost like ? is it only tires to change or do u need to change swingarms etc ?

haha sorry for being a nub about scramblers :p

 

to convert to motard, you will need another set of rims(maybe brake rotors too), spocket and tyres.. swingarm and forks can use back the same..

offroad rims are much cheaper than motard wheelset..

 

it's always easier to convert from off road to motard than the other way round..

 

firefox owns the one of the most powerful offroad bike that can ever be on the road.. :angel:

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to convert to motard, you will need another set of rims(maybe brake rotors too), spocket and tyres.. swingarm and forks can use back the same..

offroad rims are much cheaper than motard wheelset..

 

it's always easier to convert from off road to motard than the other way round..

 

firefox owns the one of the most powerful offroad bike that can ever be on the road.. :angel:

 

sweet. the purpose of rim change is to fit smaller tyres ?

kinda wondering how come cant use the offroad rims and just change to the road tyres bro ?

sprocket sizes affect pick up/accleration/ or top end depending what setup is used right ? i remember when i was riding krr the mech spoke some jibberish about that.. is it the same for 2b compared to class 2a,2 and sport/scrambler bike ?

[ for my 2a bikes i didnt really modify them cause didnt want to waste so much $ lol, didnt really enjoy the fact that engine cant be pushed beyond 230km/h and the 50ish hp at rear wheel is a very big let down ]

 

the question for you is how fast you want it to be?? :cheeky:

 

this second comment i agree :D

I've been smoked by a drz from 0-60 when playing pickup with them on my 2a sportbikes :p

a scrambler can also easily take on a 600cc sportsbike( i.e r6, gsxr600, cbr600 ..never seen a zx6r play so i wont comment) if u talk about 0-60km/h accleration

i think its got something to do with the power curve in gear 1 of a scrambler bike o.O

 

care to explain more or correct my last statement biting_point ?

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Thanks bro , its informative :D

U mentioned motard is shorter, as in the wheelbase? for sports bike the shorter the wheelbase the more stable the bike is during corners, same applies for scramblers ?

Lastly to convert say an offroad bike to a motard setup what is the extimated cost like ? is it only tires to change or do u need to change swingarms etc ?

haha sorry for being a nub about scramblers :p

 

yes. definitely! motard rims are smaller than off road rims. so it's definitely MORE stable when cornering.

 

the only things you need to change is like what biting_point has said. and perhaps you can reuse the old hubs to fit into the new rims. and you may consider changing the the front fender to a motard one and shorten the side stand a bit to accomodate the difference of height. price will range from $500(if you can find good deals on 2nd hand stuffs) to $2000(normal range) to $5000++(if we're talking about marchesini rims over here. :cheeky:)

 

 

firefox owns the one of the most powerful offroad bike that can ever be on the road.. :angel:

 

thanks for the compliment. :angel:

 

drz 400 pick up how fast? like maybe 0-70km how many sec? :o

 

faster than a super 4 and a bit slower than a liter sportsbike.

 

the question for you is how fast you want it to be?? :cheeky:

shouldn't it depends on the size of your balls. the bigger it is, the faster the bike will go!

 

 

Anyone has any opinions on dual sport tyres on an off road set up?

 

http://www.shinkotireusa.com/img/product-big/705-series.jpg

good for road use. :thumb: lousy for off road use. :cry:

 

 

 

sweet. the purpose of rim change is to fit smaller tyres ?

kinda wondering how come cant use the offroad rims and just change to the road tyres bro ?

sprocket sizes affect pick up/accleration/ or top end depending what setup is used right ? i remember when i was riding krr the mech spoke some jibberish about that.. is it the same for 2b compared to class 2a,2 and sport/scrambler bike ?

[ for my 2a bikes i didnt really modify them cause didnt want to waste so much $ lol, didnt really enjoy the fact that engine cant be pushed beyond 230km/h and the 50ish hp at rear wheel is a very big let down ]

 

 

 

this second comment i agree :D

I've been smoked by a drz from 0-60 when playing pickup with them on my 2a sportbikes :p

a scrambler can also easily take on a 600cc sportsbike( i.e r6, gsxr600, cbr600 ..never seen a zx6r play so i wont comment) if u talk about 0-60km/h accleration

i think its got something to do with the power curve in gear 1 of a scrambler bike o.O

 

care to explain more or correct my last statement biting_point ?

the purpose of the need to change the rims is more on to fit the road tyres that are available for the sportsbike. if you still want to reuse your old rims, i doubt you can find big enough road tyres with a narrower width and hence, for the smaller and fatter rims.

 

for motards, you can also play around with the sprocket ratio. on stock off road setup, the ratio will already be set high. but on motard wheels, the pick up will be much higher, due to better traction on the motard tyres. and you will reach the top end before you know it. so it is wise to switch to a bit smaller ratio and spread out the power from bottom end to the top end.

[by the way, a drz has a horsepower of around 40+ but the lighter weight and its gear ratio AND sprocket ratio helps much in the acceleration. a wr 400 and a ktm 400 is much lighter so you can try and guess how much faster these bikes can go. :angel:]

 

about the power curve, scramblers tend to have more power in the lower gears and also losing out in the top end. all the ratios are specially made to create massive pick up with the top speed not questioned at all. as for the challenge with a 600cc bike, it must also depends on the kind of balls and the weight of the scrambler rider. so, if you are a rider that always ask how fast is the pick up rather than what is the top speed of the bike, a motard is for you!

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changing of rims is a must if you are changing from off road setup to motard set up..

 

off road rims are 21inch front, 18 or 19inch rear IIRC..

motard setup are commonly 17 front/rear or a 16.5 front..

 

the tyres sizes are different that's why they cannot fit road tyres..

 

the lower and mid range RPM packs with power.. the top end really sucks..

 

for comfortable cruising and pickup, you can keep the gear ratio at the 2.8 range..

3 or above will be losing a lot of top end in exchange with a torquey machine..

 

i once offended a friend when i test rode his 750.. I told him after riding saying that his bike is not powerful.. as i'm too used to my torquey DRZ..

 

a XR or WR will definately packs more power with lesser weight, but the price tag will be slightly higher.

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That was really informative bro :D

Thanks for the clearifications :p

haha im actually now quite tempted to convert to the dark side n get a scrambler, seems completely different from sportsbikes and something new & fun to try out :D

hehe but 1 negative thing is that im big sized :faint:

1.8m 76kg

can the scrambler frame support my weight and is it easy to corner the bike with a scrambler considering my size ? [ for sportsikes we just lean with the bike while cornering but scrambler riders then to corner the bike but body position is more or less upright]

Edited by taaouicha

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changing of rims is a must if you are changing from off road setup to motard set up..

 

off road rims are 21inch front, 18 or 19inch rear IIRC..

motard setup are commonly 17 front/rear or a 16.5 front..

 

the tyres sizes are different that's why they cannot fit road tyres..

 

the lower and mid range RPM packs with power.. the top end really sucks..

 

for comfortable cruising and pickup, you can keep the gear ratio at the 2.8 range..

3 or above will be losing a lot of top end in exchange with a torquey machine..

 

i once offended a friend when i test rode his 750.. I told him after riding saying that his bike is not powerful.. as i'm too used to my torquey DRZ..

 

a XR or WR will definately packs more power with lesser weight, but the price tag will be slightly higher.

 

yes bro i think a sportsbike need to have a timing retard eliminator to even try to keep up to a scrambler in terms of pick up.

But the problem with tre is that the bike will tend to wheelie if u drag the rpms @ low gears :faint:

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That was really informative bro :D

Thanks for the clearifications :p

haha im actually now quite tempted to convert to the dark side n get a scrambler, seems completely different from sportsbikes and something new & fun to try out :D

hehe but 1 negative thing is that im big sized :faint:

1.8m 76kg

can the scrambler frame support my weight and is it easy to corner the bike with a scrambler considering my size ? [ for sportsikes we just lean with the bike while cornering but scrambler riders then to corner the bike but body position is more or less upright]

 

76kg is ok actually. i'm sure a lot of ang mohs are around this range. they have no problem with the bike, why should you? perhaps, you just need to adjust the suspension accordingly to your weight. cornering depends more on the settings of the bike than the weight of yours bro. your weight will only make a slight difference. don't worry too much about that. at 1.8m, you should have no problem solving the main worry of a rider cos most people are more worried about the height of the bike.

 

scramblers will also lean with the bike while cornering but in a bit more upright position. but that is not a problem for me as i can easily flick the bike to the other side with ease due to the lightness of the bike.

 

so when are you changing to a motard? :angel:

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a XR or WR will definately packs more power with lesser weight, but the price tag will be slightly higher.

 

and the price tag is not the price of the bike but rather the fuel consumption, the monthly maintenance and etc. 2 bottles of EO every 1500km, 1 oil filter every 3000km, 1 spark plug every 5000km. :cry:

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so when are you changing to a motard? :angel:

 

hehe im planning to get a bike sometime in may/june bro.

was initiallly considering 04r1 or an 05gixxer1k, but i'm definitely adding a drz to that list :cheeky:

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the bike will tend to wheelie if u drag the rpms @ low gears :faint:

 

is it? mine dun tend to wheelieo_O

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but i'm definitely adding a drz to that list :cheeky:

 

click n view my sig below, i sell u lor:angel:

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is it? mine dun tend to wheelieo_O

 

The Timing Retard and Speed limiter override.

 

This mod ONLY applies to a fuel injected Suzuki

and can be used with bikes equipped with a Power Commander.

 

EXPLANATION:

 

 

Your ECU (the bike's fuel injection computer) takes readings from the sensors on the bike, for example, RPM, intake air pressure, throttle position, and the Gear Position. It then computes how much fuel to inject into the cylinders to make the bike run correctly.

 

As I understand it, the European Union and US government got involved with the manufacturers to sanitise Superbike power delivery so that when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears, the computer figures out how much fuel to inject as usual, but, to limit torque, it backs off this amount and/or closes the secondary throttles a bit and retards the ignition to limit your power. This is to keep torque down when you are in the lower gears but it doesn't do this in the higher gears, because if you're in 4th gear or higher at low RPM's and give it the beanz, you don't have *that* much torque anyway.

 

The gear position sensor is a variable resistor. When in 1st gear it's around 500 ohms. When in 6th gear, it's about 15,000 ohms. So, if you clip the wires going to the ECU, and hook up a 15K ohm resistor, the ECU *THINKS* you are really in 6th gear all the time because it is sensing 15K ohm (6th gear) of your resistor rather than what the GPS is actually reading. So, when you roll on the throttle, it puts out the full amount of power the engine is capable of.

 

That's basically the gist of it and it makes a difference in the feel of the bike. Ever notice that in 1st gear when you rev it to around 3,000 RPM then nail the throttle wide open the bike hesitates? That is because of this built in retard. With this mod, you get power quicker and smoother. Also, when going slow on the road or in a car park when you close the throttle you get a real hard engine braking, it's a lot less with the mod.

 

It's just smoother all around. Also, there's a bonus with doing this mod on the Hayabusa and the GSX-R1000 by actually fooling the bike into being in 5th gear, not 6th you override the top speed limiter. To do this use a 6,800ohm resistor, the bike will then think it's in 5th. Actually it's the same map as 6th gear but without the speed limiter.

Source : http://sportsbike.org/technical/tre.htm

 

a 1000cc sportsbike with a tre equipped will be a lot more powerful in the lower gears bro. it unleash the full torque of it in lower gears :/

a liter sports bike without tre is already quite light @ 6-7k rpms in gear 2, u feel the front light if u crack open throttle. with the timing retard eliminator i bet it will be a lot more powerful bro.

i however did not do that much reading into tre's and apart from higher fuel consumption there might be other drawbacks like engine damage etc,

Edited by taaouicha

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though i kinda fancy the pick up of scramblers when moving off after red light

 

Ya true & I especially like the very cool backfiring pop sound!!! :thumb:

VODKA Rain

 

If your latest plan seems absent of me... There is nothing I can do...

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Ya true & I especially like the very cool backfiring pop sound!!! :thumb:

 

There's nothing cool about backfiring... It simply means the bike is jetted too lean... :faint:

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Ya true & I especially like the very cool backfiring pop sound!!! :thumb:

 

There's nothing cool about backfiring... It simply means the bike is jetted too lean... :faint:

 

Well wat to do the new "fashion" i guess. Backfire cool, folded mirrors cool. Hahaha

 

Can I say that every pop means money out for the pocket? hehehe

 

Safety second, Style first. Sorry if offended anyone. Juz stating the facts.

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

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The Timing Retard and Speed limiter override.

 

This mod ONLY applies to a fuel injected Suzuki

and can be used with bikes equipped with a Power Commander.

 

EXPLANATION:

 

 

Your ECU (the bike's fuel injection computer) takes readings from the sensors on the bike, for example, RPM, intake air pressure, throttle position, and the Gear Position. It then computes how much fuel to inject into the cylinders to make the bike run correctly.

 

As I understand it, the European Union and US government got involved with the manufacturers to sanitise Superbike power delivery so that when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears, the computer figures out how much fuel to inject as usual, but, to limit torque, it backs off this amount and/or closes the secondary throttles a bit and retards the ignition to limit your power. This is to keep torque down when you are in the lower gears but it doesn't do this in the higher gears, because if you're in 4th gear or higher at low RPM's and give it the beanz, you don't have *that* much torque anyway.

 

The gear position sensor is a variable resistor. When in 1st gear it's around 500 ohms. When in 6th gear, it's about 15,000 ohms. So, if you clip the wires going to the ECU, and hook up a 15K ohm resistor, the ECU *THINKS* you are really in 6th gear all the time because it is sensing 15K ohm (6th gear) of your resistor rather than what the GPS is actually reading. So, when you roll on the throttle, it puts out the full amount of power the engine is capable of.

 

That's basically the gist of it and it makes a difference in the feel of the bike. Ever notice that in 1st gear when you rev it to around 3,000 RPM then nail the throttle wide open the bike hesitates? That is because of this built in retard. With this mod, you get power quicker and smoother. Also, when going slow on the road or in a car park when you close the throttle you get a real hard engine braking, it's a lot less with the mod.

 

It's just smoother all around. Also, there's a bonus with doing this mod on the Hayabusa and the GSX-R1000 by actually fooling the bike into being in 5th gear, not 6th you override the top speed limiter. To do this use a 6,800ohm resistor, the bike will then think it's in 5th. Actually it's the same map as 6th gear but without the speed limiter.

Source : http://sportsbike.org/technical/tre.htm

 

a 1000cc sportsbike with a tre equipped will be a lot more powerful in the lower gears bro. it unleash the full torque of it in lower gears :/

a liter sports bike without tre is already quite light @ 6-7k rpms in gear 2, u feel the front light if u crack open throttle. with the timing retard eliminator i bet it will be a lot more powerful bro.

i however did not do that much reading into tre's and apart from higher fuel consumption there might be other drawbacks like engine damage etc,

 

DIY very simple. FC of coz will be affected (depends on how u open the throttel) but the syokness is undescribable hahah. Damage to bike, I do not think there will be any if done properly, like ensure Air-Fuel mixture is in the safe range. Do google, its an under $10 mod.

Edited by IvikaRazI

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric2/196279.png

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feels that and all rounder should be xr400. bullet proof, reliable, crash resistant to a certain extent. capable for off roading, slap on a big tank, adventure touring also can. xr400 parts are more easily available overseas in other country if touring is what u want to do.

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Well wat to do the new "fashion" i guess. Backfire cool, folded mirrors cool. Hahaha

 

Can I say that every pop means money out for the pocket? hehehe

 

Safety second, Style first. Sorry if offended anyone. Juz stating the facts.

 

No worries man, for me the popping sound is something like those angel eyes on certain models on Audi cars (legal for Audi because they came in stock but illegal for some other car makes), those flashy Subaru's with neon blue lights under it... Just something for us to drool about... hehehe. Again like you said no offence to anyone at all...

VODKA Rain

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I accept with information: cons:

expensive bike

fuel guzzler

expensive parts

price: $7k(2nd hand)-$18k(1st hand)

WR 400

pros:

up there along with the KTM 400 but at a cheaper price

can also be converted to motard for road use

reliable engine

cons:

long waiting time for spares (old bike)

fuel guzzler

aftermarket parts are hard to find (i.e. LV is the only street legal pipe)

price: $5k-7k(2nd hand)

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