[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

However managed to get it 'fitted'...look nice and shiok to use boi!!!

 

hehe.. then say la..

at least 1 good thing happen for today..

an extension of some sort? i'll be working tmr.. see u another time for the stuff.. maybe sunday.. i'll contact u..

[Ah Pek]

hehe.. then say la..

at least 1 good thing happen for today..

an extension of some sort? i'll be working tmr.. see u another time for the stuff.. maybe sunday.. i'll contact u..

 

Have to lower fork.

[Guest cafebleu]

hi all, i'm considering getting a cb400 PB1 as my first 2a bike. how much is the market price like for one? is there anything i should look out for? thanks in advance.

[Ah Pek]

hi all, i'm considering getting a cb400 PB1 as my first 2a bike. how much is the market price like for one? is there anything i should look out for? thanks in advance.

 

First off..you have to consider the COE value and the number of years it have more on the road...secondly, the outlook and appearance condition of the bike stock component (forget about addons and esthetic accessories like voltmeter, under belly pan etc..of similar) and the most important, the engine condition and a test ride. Arranging a test ride is hard to come by because of insurance and your experience with a larger bike..but somehow, it best if you can do it..but again you never riden an S4 and power and all will feel good. If you have friend with S4..get them along or a mototiam mech to help evaluate the bike.

 

Good PB1 is hard to come by..they are good only because the latest owner treasure it. I have seen one too many ppl buying bikes at $4.8K (with coe and in installament) that's really only worth the most $3.5K condition. Just know that NEVR NEVER get a second bike that is not done or refurbish to good condition..especially those in mototiam. They would tell you the price you have to pay, take the bike first...any problem come back we rectified for you free...but they are busy most of the time. They may replace a new tyre for you but likely its old stock or a tyre not of your choice..the same goes for sporket set and chain. I had one guy just recently I met up bought a Ver S with leaking fuel ****. The list and say goes on...

 

There is no fixed vaule..you can buy one you thought cheap but the follow-up things you have to do gonna cost you more in the end and lots of wasted valuable time...a penny wise pound foolish situation. When you find one and feel that you are paying so much more..do consider it what has to be done and how the shop would service you in support after that...don't border about how old the bike is...it can be 15 yrs old but hardly use and well taken care off..it can be 5 years old and the owner treat it like a stunt bike and left in the rain and shine and too busy to keep her clean.

 

In short..have a budget that you can afford that, have an experience S4 owner with you when you are done searching before finalising and last but not least..TAKE YOUR TIME...dont be too Kang_Cheong about quickly getting one. PB1 (look for 1997 batch)...you made the right choice

[wubefrub]

yup2..welcome to the club dude..ppl around here quite helpful..esp ah pek..hope to see you around eh..

[tim17]

AH-PEK!!!!! I'm back again to disturb you...

 

how to tighten my absorber?? when i pillion my friend... and go over hum... I feel like a little bit soft le...

 

and omgosh!!! after changing my handle grip... feel so much better... my that previous stupid handle grip feels like always stuck with something.. kinda tough to throttle...

 

[Ah Pek]

AH-PEK!!!!! I'm back again to disturb you...

 

Disturb can lah but don't touch me :^)...I'll break into pieces and cannot help here anymore.

 

how to tighten my absorber??

 

There is a long curve "C" shape spanner that comes with the bike..if you do not have, use a large flat heat screw driver. You need to push the 'castle head' like adjuster either clockwise or anticlockwise. If you look carefully..there should be a scale ruler like reading from 1 to 5...towards 5 is harder I think..if you can't tell..when you adjust the notch...the spring should be compress downwards for better rebound. If there is no more to adjust...time to recharge up your nitrogen gas liao...$40 per canister at Teck Thye.

[Ah Pek]

Tomorrow evening (5.0ct.08)at Teck Ghee Square, AMK Ave 10, along Blk 409..9pm..anyone wants X-1R can come and get...got a few extra bottles.

[tim17]

Disturb can lah but don't touch me :^)...I'll break into pieces and cannot help here anymore.

 

em.. ah-pek!!! don't worry.. won't touch you.. you not my type... LOL!!!!

 

There is a long curve "C" shape spanner that comes with the bike..if you do not have, use a large flat heat screw driver. You need to push the 'castle head' like adjuster either clockwise or anticlockwise. If you look carefully..there should be a scale ruler like reading from 1 to 5...towards 5 is harder I think..if you can't tell..when you adjust the notch...the spring should be compress downwards for better rebound. If there is no more to adjust...time to recharge up your nitrogen gas liao...$40 per canister at Teck Thye.

 

i see.. so now this I know... thanks AH-PEK

[Hazmat_83]

Hi bros,

 

My Version S has a decreasing coolant problem. The coolant level in the spare tank decreases tremendously after a few days. There is no leakage from the engine weepholes and a recent oil change revealed a normal colour(not milky which would indicate coolant entering the chamber). I have tried to observe any drops of coolant on the floor but still nothing.I have:

 

1.Flushed and replaced coolant as a first step. Level still decreases and I have been coming to the shop to fill up my coolant FOC for a few weeks now.

 

Recent changes:

2.Changed radiator cap

3.Changed thermostat housing and faulty thermostat

4.Changed complete set of hoses

The rest of the cooling items such as water pump etc are in good condition as told by my mech.

 

I rode and the next day I discovered that the level in the spare tank still goes down by 1.5cm. This could be due to the expelling of air bubbles in the cooling system, but I'm worried also that the problem might not be solved. I'm going to monitor for a few more days but I can't leave out any possibility. The last resort as recommended by my mech is to open up the engine and see whether there's any blockage in the water jacket and aluminium tubes. Because he said that maybe something is obstructing there, causing heat buildup and vaporisation of coolant. Sigh, any experienced bros out there who can advice?

 

The engine never overheated before I took these steps to remedy the problem but I feel that it is good to rectify the problem anyway.

[edition]

hazmat83 u nv mention wat brand of the coolant that u are using, i guess u are using engine ice which need frequent refill .. anyway u mention that you did a flush and if u flush from 1 end and the other end comes out water shld be no blockage ..

[Ah Pek]

1.Flushed and replaced coolant as a first step.

 

Can you tell me how and what you do when you said "Flush"?

[Hazmat_83]

Didn't use the radiator flush. Just drained old coolant, and sprayed high pressure water into the system. Water came out the other end. The problem was there b4 flushing so I'm quite sure its not caused by the flushing itself. And yeah I'm using engine ice. When I say blockage I mean partially obstructed, in a way that causes the coolant to get choked and move slowly somewhere, causing heat buildup. Just like CTE stretch between AMK Ave 5 and PIE exit during morning rush hour.

 

Is Maxima coolaide recommended for old bikes such as mine? I'm just afraid that its "too good" until it "eats" into the walls of the cooling system, especially the water jacket and gasket head, which I'm sure isnt at tiptop condition like new, since its been used for years already.

[wubefrub]

Hazmat bro i had the same problem. my coolant actually dried up without me knowing. there was no coolant stains on the ground after parking and all, so i really did not know what happened, until i could feel my engine actually feeling bloody hot. even my temp light havent light up then. i think i rode for about 2 weeks with dried coolant.

 

apparently, in my case, the leakage was from the round-ball-like-with multiple openings coolant tubing. what happened was that everytime i rode, my engine get warm, the leakage 'expanded' and coolant leaked. so it wasnt obvious when my bike was parked. what my mech did was he added water to my coolant system, and rev the engine like siao. ONLY THEN can see the source of the leakage (where the water was flowing out).

 

i had the only that particular ball-tube changed. forgot the price, but it is best to change all the tubes at once ($180).

 

and btw, i've been using engine ice for some time. never had to top up before. maybe ard 3-4 months? i dunno if that is still to short a time, or whatnot, but so far so good. bike is running as smoothly as ever.

 

all the best. nil sine labore

[Hazmat_83]

Do u have any pics or diagram to show me? Is it the thermostat housing or even the water pump? Do u know where this tube is located? E.g under fuel tank or near the foot peg?

[Darkness19]

hazmat83 u nv mention wat brand of the coolant that u are using, i guess u are using engine ice which need frequent refill .. anyway u mention that you did a flush and if u flush from 1 end and the other end comes out water shld be no blockage ..

 

engine ice dun need frequent refill

[Ah Pek]

Hazmat bro i had the same problem. my coolant actually dried up without me knowing. there was no coolant stains on the ground after parking and all, so i really did not know what happened, until i could feel my engine actually feeling bloody hot. even my temp light havent light up then. i think i rode for about 2 weeks with dried coolant.

 

apparently, in my case, the leakage was from the round-ball-like-with multiple openings coolant tubing. what happened was that everytime i rode, my engine get warm, the leakage 'expanded' and coolant leaked. so it wasnt obvious when my bike was parked. what my mech did was he added water to my coolant system, and rev the engine like siao. ONLY THEN can see the source of the leakage (where the water was flowing out).

 

i had the only that particular ball-tube changed. forgot the price, but it is best to change all the tubes at once ($180).

 

and btw, i've been using engine ice for some time. never had to top up before. maybe ard 3-4 months? i dunno if that is still to short a time, or whatnot, but so far so good. bike is running as smoothly as ever.

 

all the best. nil sine labore

 

What "ball tube"..never heard off mannn!? Can describe better plse...like where is it located, near where, link to what...etc..use handphone camera take pic leh. I can't think of anything that is a ball and a tube at the same time...unless you are saying the hose tube under the tank that connects to the thermostat or the hose tube that is way below at the gear box that goes into the impeller housing?

[Ah Pek]

Didn't use the radiator flush. Just drained old coolant, and sprayed high pressure water into the system. Water came out the other end. The problem was there b4 flushing so I'm quite sure its not caused by the flushing itself. And yeah I'm using engine ice. When I say blockage I mean partially obstructed, in a way that causes the coolant to get choked and move slowly somewhere, causing heat buildup. Just like CTE stretch between AMK Ave 5 and PIE exit during morning rush hour.

 

Is Maxima coolaide recommended for old bikes such as mine? I'm just afraid that its "too good" until it "eats" into the walls of the cooling system, especially the water jacket and gasket head, which I'm sure isnt at tiptop condition like new, since its been used for years already.

 

In this case its not coolant system flushing than..more like cleansing. Your case is to reason...basically just that when it gets to boiling point, the pressure builds up and flow of rate is too slow and this thus explain that flow path is restricted. Since you have no leak..this further assured us that its obstruction somewhere or due to flow restriction and that all your hose are OK!..and the coolant get evaporated like hot water in a conceal pot.

 

This brings me to only one likely conclusion is that the radiator unit internal tubing are likely clogged with scale and sluge flakes and rust build up. Try using the coolant chemical flush first...let it run hot to dislove, dislodge all blockage especially those small slits orifice holes of the radiator unit to clear. Once clear..I believe it would have better flow rate where it can equate the flow by pressure builds up. If this fails..one other think I can think off is total closesure blockage inside the radiator which is bad news...after all you did a pretty good troubleshooting job yourself for everything changed except the radiator and the pump is verified by your mean.

 

Get the proper flush job done...and no, nothing to do with brand of coolant.

 

Good luck.

[edition]

engine ice dun need frequent refill

 

alamak is it? den my bad cau last time read one of the thread that some complain abt that they require fill up quite often compared to others .. so i got the conclusion from there ..

[wubefrub]

yeah finally confirmation..engine ice no need frequent refill.

 

anyway the ball-like hose i mentioned:

its right in the middle, under the carb. looks like a ball with a few connecting hoses. some sort of like a 'hub' where coolant will flow thru. hard to take picture arh..hmm..let's see if i can find any pic online..

[Burnout69]

Tomorrow evening (5.0ct.08)at Teck Ghee Square, AMK Ave 10, along Blk 409..9pm..anyone wants X-1R can come and get...got a few extra bottles.

sorie guyz.. could not make it... bz wit hari raya stuff... will make it up to u...

[Darkness19]

alamak is it? den my bad cau last time read one of the thread that some complain abt that they require fill up quite often compared to others .. so i got the conclusion from there ..

 

Engine Ice should be a better coolant tat do nt require to refill often:thumb:

[Ah Pek]

alamak is it? den my bad cau last time read one of the thread that some complain abt that they require fill up quite often compared to others .. so i got the conclusion from there ..

 

Do some soul searching always and hands on for the real deal in life.

[Ah Pek]

yeah finally confirmation..engine ice no need frequent refill.

 

anyway the ball-like hose i mentioned:

its right in the middle, under the carb. looks like a ball with a few connecting hoses. some sort of like a 'hub' where coolant will flow thru. hard to take picture arh..hmm..let's see if i can find any pic online..

 

Oh....you mean the "Y" configuration hose there..got round ball meh?..got to check see mannn!..interesting.

[wubefrub]

Oh....you mean the "Y" configuration hose there..got round ball meh?..got to check see mannn!..interesting.

 

ah yes must be that one..looks rounded mah...