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Posted
is engine oil used for cars suitable for bikes?

 

Well, actually cannot. :rolleyes:

 

Cars have a separate compartment/housing for its clutch, whereas bikes have the engine and clutch all in the same compartment.

Hence a wet clutch.

Also, bikes run at higher rpms, so our eo then to be more viscous (if I'm not wrong, can check with the veterans here...)

 

But then ah...

 

Sometime I personally think that "different" oils are made for "different" internal (4-stroke) combustion engine a little bit of a marketing gimmick to make us consumers spend more $$$ :rolleyes:

 

I have read that there are daring people that actually use car eo on their motorbikes before... (fully synthetic, of course) and found to have no problems. :p

 

2 things are for sure though.

1)Those car eo with friction modifiers are a big NO-NO. Due to different rpms bikes run, as said above.

2) The 3000km mark to change eo is outdated advise based on outdated eo technology. Nowadays one can use fully synthetic eo and can still use up to 5000km (and more!) with no adverse effects. Oils now can tahan more heat over longer periods of time and are able to also "hold" the dirt from your engine before the next OCI. (I remember somebody saying here in the forum that the s4 OCI is 12000km! :faint: but then again I also heard a forumer here use ah pek's eo stretch until 15000km and still going strong! :bow:

 

These however, are my $0.02 :angel:

Don't quote me :gun: when - after changing your bike eo to car eo - your bike sounds like Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 MR !!! :sweat:

Do your own research as well! :cheers:

Goodee hor hot goodee... Mat witz sebastian! :p

Posted
Well, actually cannot. :rolleyes:

 

Cars have a separate compartment/housing for its clutch, whereas bikes have the engine and clutch all in the same compartment.

Hence a wet clutch.

Also, bikes run at higher rpms, so our eo then to be more viscous (if I'm not wrong, can check with the veterans here...)

 

But then ah...

 

Sometime I personally think that "different" oils are made for "different" internal (4-stroke) combustion engine a little bit of a marketing gimmick to make us consumers spend more $$$ :rolleyes:

 

I have read that there are daring people that actually use car eo on their motorbikes before... (fully synthetic, of course) and found to have no problems. :p

 

2 things are for sure though.

1)Those car eo with friction modifiers are a big NO-NO. Due to different rpms bikes run, as said above.

2) The 3000km mark to change eo is outdated advise based on outdated eo technology. Nowadays one can use fully synthetic eo and can still use up to 5000km (and more!) with no adverse effects. Oils now can tahan more heat over longer periods of time and are able to also "hold" the dirt from your engine before the next OCI. (I remember somebody saying here in the forum that the s4 OCI is 12000km! :faint: but then again I also heard a forumer here use ah pek's eo stretch until 15000km and still going strong! :bow:

 

These however, are my $0.02 :angel:

Don't quote me :gun: when - after changing your bike eo to car eo - your bike sounds like Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 MR !!! :sweat:

Do your own research as well! :cheers:

 

Well said bro ;0)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi all fellow S4 riders,

 

I would like to provide an unbiased review of an Ah Pek's services. I bought a 16 year old Version S in March. I won’t say I got it at a cheap price but decent price would be the words to describe the price tag. Bike condition is not perfect but acceptable standards. For the past 3 months, there are no major problems except faulty rectifier which the bike shop replace for me gladly. I had a 3 month warranty period from the bike shop which is hard to find considering the age of the bike. Honestly, I will ask for nothing more. Bike shop is not that stupid to give such warranty if the bike has serious ‘’hidden problems’’. There are many stories of how people got rip off by bike shops or cheated by irresponsible bike shops here in SBF,so I consider myself lucky. I did around 5000km and was looking at an alternative choice for general bike servicing. In my search, I come across this thread here in SBF. There are many positive feedback on Ah Pek’s services especially the ‘’magic’’ EO he has. Judging from his posts, it seems to me that Ah Pek has vast experiences and deep technical knowledge on S4s. I made an appointment with Ah Pek through PM and confirm timing, location and what I wish to do.

So I meet up with Ah Pek at AMK on Vesak Day to work on the following

 

1.Ah Pek’s ‘’magic’’ engine oil and filter replacement with X1R oil treatment

2.Ah Pek’s coolant

3.Ah Pek’s DIY grounding

 

I am sorry I am unable to reveal the price I was quoted as Ah Pek wants to keep it that way and I respect that. You may PM him directly for pricing. For those using top of the end Motul 300V, it is around that range with oil filter and oil treatment all in. The EO is his own blend of fully synthetic which is the result of many trials of normal and racing applications. Yes, Ah Pek used to race in his hey days not those underground or street races, we are talking about legal racing. This uncle had been there and done that. It’s really hard to believe that a humble and down to earth guy like Ah Pek had a history of burning rubber. The EO that came with the bike was PTT Challenger fully synthetic, one of those lower tier fully synthetic oil from Thailand. After 3000km, I started to have difficulty in gear shift and loss of power. Bike feels sluggish, lazy to go and noisy. I told Ah Pek my knowledge of the bike is poor and most of the information I got is from the internet instead of hands on. From taking out the nut to drain the oil till the end, he painstakingly explain in every step to me so I can gain some knowledge. What to lookout for , how to see a mechanical fault , etc etc. This guy sure knows his work. Although I didn’t ask him but from the looks of it, he can strip the bike bone naked and assemble it back without much trouble. His recommendation for another oil change will beyond 10,000 km. Now that is certainly hell a lot of mileage to me. I used to run Motul 300V on my Yamaha X1R and the gear shift starts to becoming crappy after 5000km. There are many S4 riders out there who are Ah Pek’s customers, everybody is testifying the EO goes beyond 10,000km. I do not have expectations that are that high, as long as it remains good till 5000km,it is acceptable anymore mileage after 5000km that will be a bonus.

 

Next we start to work on the cooling system. It is a good sign that the coolant remains full to the cap after 3 months but the color of the coolant isn’t encouraging. It’s like Milo which is due to corrosion .Ah Pek try his best to take out all the particles whatever he could even from the hoses. We got a conclusion that there is no or very little coolant after draining out. He also taught me how to check the coolant level and when to top up. I was given a 1.5L of coolant already mixed with distill water to bring home for top up if necessary. I was told at the same time it will take me years to finish using the spares if I don’t suffer from a leakage. Years? Got to be kidding but I believe him because he sounds serious.

 

Lastly, we start to work on the grounding. Whether this works or not is very subjective to many but according to Ah Pek it all boils down to installation methods, if wrongly installed user might not get the full effects and benefits. He also recommended me cost efficient methods to improve the bike’s electrical system which I am already considering to do. After everything is done, he did an overall check for me to see if all the instruments on board works the way they are suppose to. I went for a test ride on his invitation and if I need any adjustments on anything he can get it right for me. Ride was smooth, bike feels light and ready to charge at the throttle like a tiger pouncing on its prey. Engine was quieter and once on the highway the bike was a delightful ride at higher speeds.

I would stronger recommend Ah Pek’s services to anyone. Some of the things money can’t buy is knowing a friend like Ah Pek who is willing to share his experiences and knowledge, his willingness to offer his opinions and recommendations if you have any doubts.

Posted
Anyone can advise whether we can replace our Version S signal lights to the Spec 1 signal lights?

 

Don't think so unless u 'mod' the mounting stalk..again I might be wrong.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi all fellow S4 riders,

 

I would like to provide an unbiased review of an Ah Pek's services. I bought a 16 year old Version S in March. I won’t say I got it at a cheap price but decent price would be the words to describe the price tag. Bike condition is not perfect but acceptable standards. For the past 3 months, there are no major problems except faulty rectifier which the bike shop replace for me gladly. I had a 3 month warranty period from the bike shop which is hard to find considering the age of the bike. Honestly, I will ask for nothing more. Bike shop is not that stupid to give such warranty if the bike has serious ‘’hidden problems’’. There are many stories of how people got rip off by bike shops or cheated by irresponsible bike shops here in SBF,so I consider myself lucky. I did around 5000km and was looking at an alternative choice for general bike servicing. In my search, I come across this thread here in SBF. There are many positive feedback on Ah Pek’s services especially the ‘’magic’’ EO he has. Judging from his posts, it seems to me that Ah Pek has vast experiences and deep technical knowledge on S4s. I made an appointment with Ah Pek through PM and confirm timing, location and what I wish to do.

So I meet up with Ah Pek at AMK on Vesak Day to work on the following

 

1.Ah Pek’s ‘’magic’’ engine oil and filter replacement with X1R oil treatment

2.Ah Pek’s coolant

3.Ah Pek’s DIY grounding

 

I am sorry I am unable to reveal the price I was quoted as Ah Pek wants to keep it that way and I respect that. You may PM him directly for pricing. For those using top of the end Motul 300V, it is around that range with oil filter and oil treatment all in. The EO is his own blend of fully synthetic which is the result of many trials of normal and racing applications. Yes, Ah Pek used to race in his hey days not those underground or street races, we are talking about legal racing. This uncle had been there and done that. It’s really hard to believe that a humble and down to earth guy like Ah Pek had a history of burning rubber. The EO that came with the bike was PTT Challenger fully synthetic, one of those lower tier fully synthetic oil from Thailand. After 3000km, I started to have difficulty in gear shift and loss of power. Bike feels sluggish, lazy to go and noisy. I told Ah Pek my knowledge of the bike is poor and most of the information I got is from the internet instead of hands on. From taking out the nut to drain the oil till the end, he painstakingly explain in every step to me so I can gain some knowledge. What to lookout for , how to see a mechanical fault , etc etc. This guy sure knows his work. Although I didn’t ask him but from the looks of it, he can strip the bike bone naked and assemble it back without much trouble. His recommendation for another oil change will beyond 10,000 km. Now that is certainly hell a lot of mileage to me. I used to run Motul 300V on my Yamaha X1R and the gear shift starts to becoming crappy after 5000km. There are many S4 riders out there who are Ah Pek’s customers, everybody is testifying the EO goes beyond 10,000km. I do not have expectations that are that high, as long as it remains good till 5000km,it is acceptable anymore mileage after 5000km that will be a bonus.

 

Next we start to work on the cooling system. It is a good sign that the coolant remains full to the cap after 3 months but the color of the coolant isn’t encouraging. It’s like Milo which is due to corrosion .Ah Pek try his best to take out all the particles whatever he could even from the hoses. We got a conclusion that there is no or very little coolant after draining out. He also taught me how to check the coolant level and when to top up. I was given a 1.5L of coolant already mixed with distill water to bring home for top up if necessary. I was told at the same time it will take me years to finish using the spares if I don’t suffer from a leakage. Years? Got to be kidding but I believe him because he sounds serious.

 

Lastly, we start to work on the grounding. Whether this works or not is very subjective to many but according to Ah Pek it all boils down to installation methods, if wrongly installed user might not get the full effects and benefits. He also recommended me cost efficient methods to improve the bike’s electrical system which I am already considering to do. After everything is done, he did an overall check for me to see if all the instruments on board works the way they are suppose to. I went for a test ride on his invitation and if I need any adjustments on anything he can get it right for me. Ride was smooth, bike feels light and ready to charge at the throttle like a tiger pouncing on its prey. Engine was quieter and once on the highway the bike was a delightful ride at higher speeds.

I would stronger recommend Ah Pek’s services to anyone. Some of the things money can’t buy is knowing a friend like Ah Pek who is willing to share his experiences and knowledge, his willingness to offer his opinions and recommendations if you have any doubts.

 

Wah bro..thanks for your kind words and complimentary well written text here. Important thing is that everyone deserve a safe bike to right and know their machine as much as possible. Thanks again and ride safe.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Dear Ah Pek,

 

We are an online community here. When a S4 owner got rip off for a lousy job done at a particular workshop or any sort of unethical business conduct, he tells his story to us so we shall be warn to stay away from a particular vendor. The vendor will be black listed and bring to shame. The same thing goes for a good vendor who gets the job done at a reasonable price, I think we ought to give some credit to the vendor. Its benefits our community as well, one more option than everyone's regular bike shop.

 

I got the leak at the engine block sorted out today. The speedo and RPM is really an eyesore still thinking how I can restore it, the orange back light is not an issue, put a strip of LED on the brim around the dials should do the trick.

Posted
Hi all fellow S4 riders,

 

I would like to provide an unbiased review of an Ah Pek's services. I bought a 16 year old Version S in March. I won’t say I got it at a cheap price but decent price would be the words to describe the price tag. Bike condition is not perfect but acceptable standards. For the past 3 months, there are no major problems except faulty rectifier which the bike shop replace for me gladly. I had a 3 month warranty period from the bike shop which is hard to find considering the age of the bike. Honestly, I will ask for nothing more. Bike shop is not that stupid to give such warranty if the bike has serious ‘’hidden problems’’. There are many stories of how people got rip off by bike shops or cheated by irresponsible bike shops here in SBF,so I consider myself lucky. I did around 5000km and was looking at an alternative choice for general bike servicing. In my search, I come across this thread here in SBF. There are many positive feedback on Ah Pek’s services especially the ‘’magic’’ EO he has. Judging from his posts, it seems to me that Ah Pek has vast experiences and deep technical knowledge on S4s. I made an appointment with Ah Pek through PM and confirm timing, location and what I wish to do.

So I meet up with Ah Pek at AMK on Vesak Day to work on the following

 

1.Ah Pek’s ‘’magic’’ engine oil and filter replacement with X1R oil treatment

2.Ah Pek’s coolant

3.Ah Pek’s DIY grounding

 

I am sorry I am unable to reveal the price I was quoted as Ah Pek wants to keep it that way and I respect that. You may PM him directly for pricing. For those using top of the end Motul 300V, it is around that range with oil filter and oil treatment all in. The EO is his own blend of fully synthetic which is the result of many trials of normal and racing applications. Yes, Ah Pek used to race in his hey days not those underground or street races, we are talking about legal racing. This uncle had been there and done that. It’s really hard to believe that a humble and down to earth guy like Ah Pek had a history of burning rubber. The EO that came with the bike was PTT Challenger fully synthetic, one of those lower tier fully synthetic oil from Thailand. After 3000km, I started to have difficulty in gear shift and loss of power. Bike feels sluggish, lazy to go and noisy. I told Ah Pek my knowledge of the bike is poor and most of the information I got is from the internet instead of hands on. From taking out the nut to drain the oil till the end, he painstakingly explain in every step to me so I can gain some knowledge. What to lookout for , how to see a mechanical fault , etc etc. This guy sure knows his work. Although I didn’t ask him but from the looks of it, he can strip the bike bone naked and assemble it back without much trouble. His recommendation for another oil change will beyond 10,000 km. Now that is certainly hell a lot of mileage to me. I used to run Motul 300V on my Yamaha X1R and the gear shift starts to becoming crappy after 5000km. There are many S4 riders out there who are Ah Pek’s customers, everybody is testifying the EO goes beyond 10,000km. I do not have expectations that are that high, as long as it remains good till 5000km,it is acceptable anymore mileage after 5000km that will be a bonus.

 

Next we start to work on the cooling system. It is a good sign that the coolant remains full to the cap after 3 months but the color of the coolant isn’t encouraging. It’s like Milo which is due to corrosion .Ah Pek try his best to take out all the particles whatever he could even from the hoses. We got a conclusion that there is no or very little coolant after draining out. He also taught me how to check the coolant level and when to top up. I was given a 1.5L of coolant already mixed with distill water to bring home for top up if necessary. I was told at the same time it will take me years to finish using the spares if I don’t suffer from a leakage. Years? Got to be kidding but I believe him because he sounds serious.

 

Lastly, we start to work on the grounding. Whether this works or not is very subjective to many but according to Ah Pek it all boils down to installation methods, if wrongly installed user might not get the full effects and benefits. He also recommended me cost efficient methods to improve the bike’s electrical system which I am already considering to do. After everything is done, he did an overall check for me to see if all the instruments on board works the way they are suppose to. I went for a test ride on his invitation and if I need any adjustments on anything he can get it right for me. Ride was smooth, bike feels light and ready to charge at the throttle like a tiger pouncing on its prey. Engine was quieter and once on the highway the bike was a delightful ride at higher speeds.

I would stronger recommend Ah Pek’s services to anyone. Some of the things money can’t buy is knowing a friend like Ah Pek who is willing to share his experiences and knowledge, his willingness to offer his opinions and recommendations if you have any doubts.

 

Couldn't have said/explain it better. I'm one of those very satisfied customer and will go to him for servicing on my new ride.

Posted
Anyone knows whether our Version S with Spec 1 type of signal lights(with the running light always on) can pass inspection?[/quote

 

For inspection of signal lights...as long as ur signal lights are as big or bigger than the original ones and the lenses are amber....you will pass with flying colours with your eyes closed!

I ride at 70km/hr only...please please dont blow2 at me or overtake me dangerously....wait i change into Incredible Hulk n dont know why my little baby bike will always be ahead of u if u do that

Posted
Anyone knows whether our Version S with Spec 1 type of signal lights(with the running light always on) can pass inspection?[/quote

 

For inspection of signal lights...as long as ur signal lights are as big or bigger than the original ones and the lenses are amber....you will pass with flying colours with your eyes closed!

 

 

Hi pufferfis, so the running lights will pass inspection too, you mean? Cos Version S originally does not come with running lights..

Posted

Hi bros, just got Ver S. A question to ask, my side stand the lever part(the thing sticking out which is for your foot to lift and put down) broke. Still has got the broken part with me, but was thinking whether it's cheaper to weld or buy a new/used if there is. Thank you.

Posted

 

 

Hi pufferfis, so the running lights will pass inspection too, you mean? Cos Version S originally does not come with running lights..

 

i used a previously a pb1 with all the lights on for 6 yrs..the signal light always on..anyways i only failed once the first time i bought the bike w issues like they want a metal front plate...anyways if u ask

nicely u wana rectify the issue asap...the

subsequent inspection wld be free w the same fella..hope this helps...strangely i fixed a hid but no issues when inspection

I ride at 70km/hr only...please please dont blow2 at me or overtake me dangerously....wait i change into Incredible Hulk n dont know why my little baby bike will always be ahead of u if u do that

Posted
Hi bros, just got Ver S. A question to ask, my side stand the lever part(the thing sticking out which is for your foot to lift and put down) broke. Still has got the broken part with me, but was thinking whether it's cheaper to weld or buy a new/used if there is. Thank you.

 

Welding should cost you 20 or less. A new one is around 45. Try going to your fav mech. He may weld for free, only if he do welding. Cos i got mine welded for free.

Posted
Welding should cost you 20 or less. A new one is around 45. Try going to your fav mech. He may weld for free, only if he do welding. Cos i got mine welded for free.

 

Hey thanks for the reply, however I notice that not only that broke off the base part(flat rectangular/oval shape) on the end of the stand also broke after seeing another s4 stand so now it's like a stick supporting. So might as well get a new piece. Could you please provide me the place to get the stand? Thanks once again.

Posted
Hey thanks for the reply, however I notice that not only that broke off the base part(flat rectangular/oval shape) on the end of the stand also broke after seeing another s4 stand so now it's like a stick supporting. So might as well get a new piece. Could you please provide me the place to get the stand? Thanks once again.

 

Last time mine that broke off was also the base. Used it for quite some time then i go for welding to make the stand abit longer.

 

If you want to get a new piece. Go to FJT. They deal with Honda parts. Its along rowell road. Price should be less than 50, but that is not inclusive of installation.

Posted
Last time mine that broke off was also the base. Used it for quite some time then i go for welding to make the stand abit longer.

 

If you want to get a new piece. Go to FJT. They deal with Honda parts. Its along rowell road. Price should be less than 50, but that is not inclusive of installation.

 

hey, thanks for the info man. will give fjt a check.

Posted

Hey guys. How are u all?

Anyway there's a ticking sound coming from my Spec 3 engine. (Some will say clicking or tucking sound. I guess it's all the same).

Went to a few workshop. All the mechanic said tensioner. Only tensioner. So I proceed to change my tensioner at one of the workshop a few weeks back.

But the ticking sound is still there. Had went back to the workshop but what he explain dissatisfied me. So here I am asking for opinion from u guys.

 

Had read thru the forum and u guys talk abt doing top service like valve clearance or balancing/replacing of shims. Or should I change timing chain and tensioner chain guide? Btw what's causing the ticking sound? And also my throttle is a bit hard nowadays. Need to change throttle cable?

Anyway thanks in advance.

Btw where's ahpek? Is he around? Ride safe people.

Posted

Is it normal that I have to top up coolant for my ver s often like once 1-1.5 months time? N when I top up, it is usually empty in the reserve tanks?

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Yamaha TZR > Kawasaki KIPS >> Suzuki GSX-K >>> Honda NSR >>>> Yamaha RX-Z >>>>> Honda CB400 Ver S >>>>>> Kymco X400i

Posted
Is it normal that I have to top up coolant for my ver s often like once 1-1.5 months time? N when I top up, it is usually empty in the reserve tanks?

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

 

That's bad!..it's sign off leaking somewhere if u do not travel in city heavy traffics or caught in daily road jams. Uf there is no sign of coolant leak externally especially after u just parked after a long ride..it's like ur radiator cap need replacement. The rubber pressure seal may be harden and flatten, dry and have fine cracks at its edges. Go LAB and get a 1:1 radiator cap..$8 or so and DIY by taking out the fuel tank and replace the radiator cap..do it ONLY WHEN TEH RADIATOT COOLS DOWN like after 5-10 mins.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hey guys. How are u all?

Anyway there's a ticking sound coming from my Spec 3 engine. (Some will say clicking or tucking sound. I guess it's all the same).

Went to a few workshop. All the mechanic said tensioner. Only tensioner. So I proceed to change my tensioner at one of the workshop a few weeks back.

But the ticking sound is still there. Had went back to the workshop but what he explain dissatisfied me. So here I am asking for opinion from u guys.

 

Had read thru the forum and u guys talk abt doing top service like valve clearance or balancing/replacing of shims. Or should I change timing chain and tensioner chain guide? Btw what's causing the ticking sound? And also my throttle is a bit hard nowadays. Need to change throttle cable?

Anyway thanks in advance.

Btw where's ahpek? Is he around? Ride safe people.

 

Ticking sound is common and normal and especially in older bikes. It's the unbalance in thickness of the "Shims" that causes it...normally at startup while engine is cold. After a few minutes of ride..the sound would eventually goes off. Yes, the shim ditates the status condition of the "Valves Clearance" with another piece like a cap over it and this assembly is call "Cam Follower" (u may wanna google and see what it's all about) which replaces "push rod" tappets of the old days. No need to worry if sound goes off after if engine is hot but if sound persist for more than 2 weeks and gets louder from "tick" to "tak"..time for one or more shims replacement..consider a top head overhaul and cost up to $400 or more. Make sure the mototiam doing this is an experience one..for a start, they must have a "vernier caliper" as it's what used to measure the thickness of the most worn out shims (like a 20 cents coin). There are total of 16 shims..usually the most worn ones are replace.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
That's bad!..it's sign off leaking somewhere if u do not travel in city heavy traffics or caught in daily road jams. Uf there is no sign of coolant leak externally especially after u just parked after a long ride..it's like ur radiator cap need replacement. The rubber pressure seal may be harden and flatten, dry and have fine cracks at its edges. Go LAB and get a 1:1 radiator cap..$8 or so and DIY by taking out the fuel tank and replace the radiator cap..do it ONLY WHEN TEH RADIATOT COOLS DOWN like after 5-10 mins.

 

I have already drain the coolant like 3 months ago but still having this problem. I do not see the coolant on the floor or anywhere near the engine, so I guess I m lucky to just get a radiator cap. Tks ah pek

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Yamaha TZR > Kawasaki KIPS >> Suzuki GSX-K >>> Honda NSR >>>> Yamaha RX-Z >>>>> Honda CB400 Ver S >>>>>> Kymco X400i

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