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Posted

ok thanks guys

 

 

If u are sure it's leaking from the carbs area..check your airbox ducting to the back of the carbs..make sure the small Philip screw tighing the duct coupling to the carbs is tight. also check the one in front that goes from the carbs to ur engine block. Also you may wanna check the 4 carbs "drain screws" (flat slot head type) that it's properly close tight.

 

Nothing to do with the carbs internal!...there is NO SUCH THING as carbs servicing.

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Posted
U can check out plastidip, if I spray whole bike, costs only abt $150

 

 

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So cheap seriously??

 

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JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

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Posted

Loving my verS! Fc good! All siu siu

 

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JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

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Posted
So cheap seriously??

 

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Cos need to DIY n might not as lasting as normal spray. Can google for plastidip fb or blog to check. 1 can is abt $30 n recommended is 4-5 cans for cb400

 

 

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Posted

Me too.. it feels good!!! Now ish find a chance ride up north with permission from wife. Kaka..

"A government afraid of its citizens is a Democracy. Citizens afraid of government is tyranny!"

— Thomas Jefferson

 

:eek: :eek:

Posted

hi fellow super4 riders. i've been riding a FP plate ver S since Sep 2012. less than 2 months ago, i encounter loss of power so send to bike shop and found 1 spark plug burnt out (2nd from right). last fri it happened again so the mech advise me that he will take the engine apart to see what the problem is.

today i went down and he showed me the cylinders have alot of carbon built up, especially bad was the one 2nd from right. the gaskets and seals were also in bad condition. water hoses were stiff and the inside of water pipes have bad corrosion. there were also signs of pink radiator coolant residue. he explained that my bike probably never gone through any major engine servicing that's why the insides so terok. he also advise me to change the water pump to preempt future problems. all in all he estimate the cost at $2.5k.

is that a reasonable sum for the parts and workmanship required?

DO. Or DO NOT. There is no TRY.

Posted
hi fellow super4 riders. i've been riding a FP plate ver S since Sep 2012. less than 2 months ago, i encounter loss of power so send to bike shop and found 1 spark plug burnt out (2nd from right). last fri it happened again so the mech advise me that he will take the engine apart to see what the problem is.

today i went down and he showed me the cylinders have alot of carbon built up, especially bad was the one 2nd from right. the gaskets and seals were also in bad condition. water hoses were stiff and the inside of water pipes have bad corrosion. there were also signs of pink radiator coolant residue. he explained that my bike probably never gone through any major engine servicing that's why the insides so terok. he also advise me to change the water pump to preempt future problems. all in all he estimate the cost at $2.5k.

is that a reasonable sum for the parts and workmanship required?

 

He already open up and quoted you..how are you gonna say no? He have to asked what are the parts breakdown that he has to replace and their cost..excluding labor. What's the labor cost itself. I personally feels that it's too expensive at $2.5k..another $1.5k you can get another bike. Anyway..may be he super pro mech with high pay and works in a high rental environment and that's his price. What I can tell you is that to replace a mid engine block 2nd serviceable unit is about $1.2k, all in..including labor..many has done that when block has to be replaced due to internal cracks causing coolant to leak into spark plugs chamber.

 

If the coolant hoses need to be replaced all seven of them..the cost is $150 and add coolant maybe total 1t $175. Gasket head replacement is about $150 for a normal head gasket leak replacement.

 

If you add all my figures here up..it still less than $1.6k. There is nothing wrong with the coolant pump why need change?..he said "preventive"?..wait till it's screw than change lah. Anyway a standalone job for a new coolant pump replacement is only $220 the most with coolant filled up.

 

From what you described..I think u need to have a mid block replacement. Get a second unit from scrapyard..a new one would set you back about $1.6k.

 

Just my 2 cents.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi all/Ah Pek

 

I need an advice for s version bike. Going to oversea and leave the bike at car park around end of Feb. At 1st asking lady friend to start the bike every week but during early of March, the battery is weak and not been start up until today. Bought a new battery(nitron-cost me $75) and replaced the flat battery. Once press the start button, there is an 'click sound' and all the light is black off. No supply even on and off the key. Taking out/in the battery cable and the fuse, it seem there is supply again, same issue happen after 3rd time tried. I try to start again at 4th time it able to start the ignition.

 

What is the cause of the 'click sound'? It because the cdi going to spoil soon?

 

There is a lot of sticky glue leak from cdi even the engine is not start for quite sometime. The cdi sticky glue will still leak even the cdi is in cold condition?

 

Will the flat battery still useful after charge?

 

Thanks in advance for advising....

Posted

Anyone selling version S front folk? The folk still leaking even done the servicing of the seal. How much is the new front folk?

Posted
Anyone selling version S front folk? The folk still leaking even done the servicing of the seal. How much is the new front folk?

y dun go back to whoever did the servicing for u n ask him to redo the servicing for u? it should b under warranty if done recently

 

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Posted
y dun go back to whoever did the servicing for u n ask him to redo the servicing for u? it should b under warranty if done recently

 

That time when servicing the folk, mechanic told me the folk is scratch even do servicing it will not last, new folks cost around 800++ that y did not replaced the folks.

Posted
Hi all/Ah Pek

 

I need an advice for s version bike. Going to oversea and leave the bike at car park around end of Feb. At 1st asking lady friend to start the bike every week but during early of March, the battery is weak and not been start up until today. Bought a new battery(nitron-cost me $75) and replaced the flat battery. Once press the start button, there is an 'click sound' and all the light is black off. No supply even on and off the key. Taking out/in the battery cable and the fuse, it seem there is supply again, same issue happen after 3rd time tried. I try to start again at 4th time it able to start the ignition.

 

What is the cause of the 'click sound'? It because the cdi going to spoil soon?

 

There is a lot of sticky glue leak from cdi even the engine is not start for quite sometime. The cdi sticky glue will still leak even the cdi is in cold condition?

 

Will the flat battery still useful after charge?

 

Thanks in advance for advising....

 

Can be cause by loose termination at battery..check ur terminal screws of the -ve and +ve screws//make sure they are tight and secure.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi Ah pek,

 

How much if want to change the master brake pump for front brake?

 

 

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The original is very expensive. Go LAB..got plenty to choose from..cheaper and not that difficult to install. Can get other brands and makes too..all same same..price range from $65-$150. The whole set include the level and body mounting.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
y dun go back to whoever did the servicing for u n ask him to redo the servicing for u? it should b under warranty if done recently

 

That time when servicing the folk, mechanic told me the folk is scratch even do servicing it will not last, new folks cost around 800++ that y did not replaced the folks.

I serviced my forks too but 1 of them was leaking, so I went back within a week to ask them do it again FOC, till now still ok

 

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Posted
y dun go back to whoever did the servicing for u n ask him to redo the servicing for u? it should b under warranty if done recently

 

That time when servicing the folk, mechanic told me the folk is scratch even do servicing it will not last, new folks cost around 800++ that y did not replaced the folks.

 

Just need to change the upper chrome tube portion call "stanchion" tube only..cost about $180-$210. The lower part can NEVER BE DAMAGEd unless it's cracked by a bad head on accident.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

 

Just need to change the upper chrome tube portion call "stanchion" tube only..cost about $180-$210. The lower part can NEVER BE DAMAGEd unless it's cracked by a bad head on accident.

 

Dear Ah Pek,

$180 - $210 for each or a pair?

Where can I buy the stachion tube? I'm in interested in getting a pair.

many thanks in advance.

Long time no see...

 

cheers!

:angel:

Goodee hor hot goodee... Mat witz sebastian! :p

Posted

 

Dear Ah Pek,

$180 - $210 for each or a pair?

Where can I buy the stachion tube? I'm in interested in getting a pair.

many thanks in advance.

Long time no see...

 

cheers!

:angel:

 

Just replace he faulty one can liao..happened to me because the mech slipped and had his screw driver nick the surface when prying out the old oil seal..of course he didn't tell me..only knew after a week when oil started accumulating densly around the seal. The cost is for 1 unit. Keep the old tube..can be very useful. If u dunt want..take for me can?...LOL!...if too much trouble than no need lah. Can get from LAB via his original parts outlet at EVERFIT I think..anyway can just asked him first..no matter what still cheaper than the rest.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
The original is very expensive. Go LAB..got plenty to choose from..cheaper and not that difficult to install. Can get other brands and makes too..all same same..price range from $65-$150. The whole set include the level and body mounting.

 

Will it affect the braking performance?

 

 

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Posted
Will it affect the braking performance?

 

 

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Why should it be..all the same. So many ppl change liao.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted (edited)

 

Just replace he faulty one can liao..happened to me because the mech slipped and had his screw driver nick the surface when prying out the old oil seal..of course he didn't tell me..only knew after a week when oil started accumulating densly around the seal. The cost is for 1 unit. Keep the old tube..can be very useful. If u dunt want..take for me can?...LOL!...if too much trouble than no need lah. Can get from LAB via his original parts outlet at EVERFIT I think..anyway can just asked him first..no matter what still cheaper than the rest.

 

Hi Ah Pek,

The stanchion that I had is not the original 1. Can see the photo attach. Did LAB sell this type of stanchion? Or I got to buy a pair? Do u interest for my stanchion if I replaced mine? Lol.

Edited by kp_voon5357

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