<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

Uncle · July 3, 2012

FJS / SWT are fitted with standard "load-based" electro-mechanical flasher relay that is used with BAU15S signal bulbs. When changing the signal bulbs to LED, it will cause the LED to blink faster than the standard 1 flash/sec rate. It's needed to convert the flasher relay to the electronic / solid state type. The relay is sourced by @MaIkEr

For FJS, the orginal relay is mounted on the instrument cluster. SWT uses standard DOT connectors and are located somewhere inside the front crowling. @MaIkEr will know and update Below steps are for FJS.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Electronics/flasherrelay.jpg

There is a set of 12P and 16P connector going into the instrucment cluster. Locate the 2 Black/Light Green and 2 Gray cables on the 12P. Release the catch on the the connector, push a pincer on the female side of the connector and pull out the 4 pins.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Electronics/51b6721e.jpg

Group the Black/Light Green pins together and connect to the red/positive side of the electronic relay. Group the Gray pins together and connect to the black/negative side of the electronic relay. It's not clear why there are 2 cables each. Either pair will work. I think it's possibly to share the load.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Electronics/524d78e5.jpg

Secure the electronic relay on the wiring harness and put back the rubber boot. The mod is reversible should there be a need to undo later.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Electronics/85f3f410.jpg

SW is "LED-ready" for now. Good thing is there's no "tick-tock" sounds when in use and flash rate is constant regardless of bulb condition. Bad thing is also there's no sounds to remind you to turn off the signals

BTW, FJS also has a 5-point factory grounding located on the left side in front of the pillion foot rest mount.

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Electronics/6039eaa1.jpg

Happy DIYing!

Edited July 3, 2012 by Uncle

scoobydoo · July 4, 2012

Using a Voltmeter

Voltmeters are available in many shapes and sizes. The more popular ones among bikers could be the small black-box typed digital voltmeters (see pics below) which are also quite economical and easy to place.

Common use of a Voltmeter?

Generally...

* engine off = around 12+V

* engine started/idling = +/-13V

* when riding (e.g. >3.5k rpm) = >14V

. . conventional batteries usually require >14.1V to charge

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Lithium-Batt_02_zpsxtzpfpff.jpg

like SW9000 said, magnetic coil don't give early warning when it wants to go on strike.

voltmeter is not a diagnostic device and but it can tell you some important clues:
* whether your batt is running low on juice or not,
i.e. if you see voltage is
* whether coils is generating enough output to power the bike and charge the batt.
i.e. if you see voltage can't hit 14+V when on the run, something may be wrong with coil or rectifier.
see tech corner post #8 & #11 for more info

some symptoms when batt is going "on strike":
* when turn on ignition key, can hear a faint but distinct continuous eeeee sound from the dashboard area (just an observation from my 2x past experience)
* crank speed is slower (lower current to turn the starter coil) than normal
* need to crank longer to start engine
* voltmeter shows

Switch on the bike = 12.4v +/-
Start the bike (idling) = 13v +/- depends on rpm.
Travelling = 14.3v +/-

Also see this post:
* Troubleshooting Battery is Damaged or Weak

Those sold at MO thread...
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp273/UrbanWerkz/VM/RGB.jpg

Slightly larger but cheaper...
($28 at LAB some time back)
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/keong957/Dynamyxdigitalvoltmeter.jpg

Round digital ones...
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR0hAmDdNs1QXPAT8uNw5rurzXJUvEN8dDgefLgWHdYs93TNUwi

Round analogue ones...
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSvH_x07q9djzTDkd-Zy50wwZiewTQFESzH9PmODpqpoGvDHyVY

After buying the desired voltmeter, next thing is to mount and connect it up for use.
Q1: where to mount?
Q2: how to connect?

Where to mount?

As mentioned above, the most important purpose voltmeter could probably be to check if magnetic coil is producing enough electrical energy to charge the battery. i.e. if voltmeter shows
* check if voltmeter is defective by measuring voltage directly at battery's nodes using multimeter (run bike on main stand)
* check if magnetic coil is defective/impaired by measuring output/resistance at magnetic coil's output terminals (below right pillion footpeg)

But... the voltmeter reading is worrying.
Charging must be above 13.6v to be effective.
Normal running voltage is 14.1v+ for SW.

Go bike shop get it tested: rectifier distribution and magnetic coil voltage leakage.

There's no correct position, just rider's preference and how he/she intends to use it.
IMO, the voltmeter should ideally be mounted at a location where rider could easily see (a quick glance), without compromising safety or being too much inconvenienced. It is usually mounted (using strong weather resistant double sided tape) on the dashboard, left side, right side or middle is a matter of personal preference.
Some examples below...

E.g. on left dashboard just below the tachometer
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/DSC_0484_zpsm1nytb33.jpg

E.g. inside the dashboard behind the left ventilation vanes (literally inside)
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/VM_side%20inside_zps1zpbxatj.jpg

E.g. at centre above the speedometer (tricky part is running the wires, are you willing to drill a hole)
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/VM_top_zpsay5vvwt8.jpg

E.g. on left dashboard flushed together with the left ventilation vanes (rider cut away some of the vanes to mount the speedometer)
http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/VM_side%20front_zpsiv1zaazp.jpg

How to connect?

2 wires:
If the voltmeter comes with only 2 wires, it's rather straight forward especially if it has auto polarity feature. i.e. connect one wire to ground or (-) of battery and the other to power source, usually the ignition so that it will be on only when we turn the ignition on.

3 wires:
If the voltmeter comes with 3 wires, don't worry cos it's just a design that allows users to measure the voltage directly from the battery terminals without draining the battery unnecessary when ignition is off (e.g. parked); "extra" wire is connected to the ignition for powering up the voltmeter. i.e. when ignition is off, voltmeter is not functioning and draws no power even when the measuring wires are connected directly to (+) and (-) of the battery.

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/VoltmeterWirings.jpg

Here's a good "ehow.com" guide for the 2-wired voltmeter:

Instructions
1) Test the voltmeter before installing it by connecting its positive (+) wire to the battery, then touching the negative (-) wire to negative terminal. The voltmeter should indicate a voltage of 12.5 volts. Remove the voltmeter's wires from the battery.

2) Select a location for your voltmeter on your motorcycle. Fully faired motorcycles often present more choices, but you must choose wisely to avoid unnecessarily damaging the expensive bodywork.

3) Splice the positive (+) wire from the voltmeter into a switched circuit, such as the speedometer lighting wire. This will prevent the voltmeter from drawing power when the motorcycle is off.

4) Ground the voltmeter's negative (-) wire. You may run the negative (-) wire back to the battery or ground the meter by connecting it to a screw or bolt on the frame.

5) Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position and take note of the voltmeter's reading. A properly charged battery should read at or around 12.5 volts. Start the motorcycle and check the voltmeter. If your motorcycle's charging system is operating properly, the meter should reflect a voltage of 13.8 to 14.5 volts.

Read more: How to Wire a Motorcycle Volt Meter | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5890563_wire-motorcycle-volt-meter.html#ixzz1zc5Vs6ys

http://img.tapatalk.com/31f5a2e2-a9a8-87e2.jpg

14.4v is batt. 12v is sw.

http://img.tapatalk.com/31f5a2e2-a6ec-c13c.jpg

sw off. batt still attached.

http://img.tapatalk.com/31f5a2e2-a710-af90.jpg

if sw wire to another power supply.

as told by my mech: best reading accuracy is to connect 2 wires direct to batt, using the key sw to on-off voltmeter. but we normally did per what uncle said, less troublesome.

Edited May 9, 2016 by scoobydoo

ruhua · July 10, 2012

which bike is better for value and reliablity? fuel consumption and handling?

Mark Yeow · July 10, 2012

Definitely the silverwing.

hachi · July 11, 2012

Handling wise TMAX wins... Tmax spares can be quite expensive.

Whereby Silverwing is cheaper to maintain..

I have both...

ruhua · July 12, 2012

Handling wise TMAX wins... Tmax spares can be quite expensive.
Whereby Silverwing is cheaper to maintain..
I have both...

read somewhere that Tmax have the common fuel pump problem so wondering whether your bike encounter this problem b4?

sliverwing also have its common problems?

HelmetBOX1605198525 · July 12, 2012

read somewhere that Tmax have the common fuel pump problem so wondering whether your bike encounter this problem b4?
sliverwing also have its common problems?

tmax fuel pump..

silverwing is coil...

tmax spare more ex...

silverwing cheaper..

tires for tmax is more than 300

tire for silvewring is approximately 200

HelmetBOX1605198525 · July 12, 2012

tires price

Pirelli Diablo Scooter 120/80-14 150/70-13 $175.00

Pirelli Diablo Scooter 110/70-16 120/80-16 $175.00

Pirelli Diablo Scooter 120/70-15 160/60-15 $368.00

almost 200 more!!zzzzz

confusehaha · July 12, 2012

Looks, power, better handling, light weight, more budget - tmax!

Practical - huge under seat compartment, comfort - bigger lowerback rest, heavier, less budget - silverwing!

Reliable wise I bet both beast are reliable as they were Japanese made:D

kmkoon · July 12, 2012

Wanna go for long distance - Silverwing

Wanna go for pickup or speed - TMax

What type of style do you prefer is depend on you..

alvin80 · July 13, 2012

It depends on your budget 1st.

Comfort, Storage space - Silverwing,

Sporty, Better Handling - TMax,

Both scooters are good & reliable machines, but there are pros & cons for every bike as mentioned by Bros here.

ruhua · July 13, 2012

thanks all for the info!

sting · July 13, 2012

tmax fuel pump..
silverwing is coil...

silverwing got coil problem?

HelmetBOX1605198525 · July 13, 2012

silverwing got coil problem?

you go ask around.. the engine case always leak.. and the coil will break down...

guess it a Honda thing... haha..

kmkoon · July 13, 2012

silverwing got coil problem?

Yes.. Mine spoil after 1 year

confusehaha · July 13, 2012

you go ask around.. the engine case always leak.. and the coil will break down...

guess it a Honda thing... haha..

Yup, it leaks as originally the engine case dun come with gasket hence u need to DIY the gasket which is silicon it and is good to go!

MIO is that, all bike got coil issue as this is a sign of wear and tear.. And sometimes is just depends on luck. Some have to replace it 1 yr however some only replace it after 3 years.

scoobydoo · July 19, 2012

Fork Seal Protectors

One of the most popular and yet budget add-ons to the SW could the fork seal protector, which about $16 a pair from a local parts dealer. The item wasn't actually designed for SW but happens that it could fit.

Here the catch... to install the protectors, the forks need to be unmounted, not quite economical for a job just to add them. Thus, we usually recommend to add them when you service the fork (e.g. change fork seal/cover, oil, etc.).

Last but not least since u r servicing ur fork, u might wish to consider fitting on a pair fork seal protector?

The one similar with spec2 and abv, as this will avoid & minimise debris from damaging ur fork seal.
If I not mistaken the price for a pair of it cost only $16. From Fjt.

It looks like this
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/sanjason88/56712c32.jpg

scoobydoo · August 1, 2012

Street Legal Exhausts for SW

very cheap. lta approved? my quotes in feb. unique:
Leovince LV ONE EVOII SS slipon - KAT e-kat 8552K $967-10%.
Leovince FACTORY EVOII TITANIUM FULL-SYSTEM WITH CARBON END CAP e 8231 $1,891
motovation:
Silverwing 2009 on Moriwaki- Slip-On Tear Drop Titanium Rainbow $1500.
hkl and other no reply:what:

in the end I choose arrow full-sys. lta ok. $1250.
http://img.tapatalk.com/b4813977-c09a-68ba.jpg

Leo Vince...

[video=youtube;XA2p0NzTa-k]

Edited February 26, 2015 by scoobydoo

Fazli · August 2, 2012

Leo Vince 4Road Full System. Street legal.

http://img.tapatalk.com/cb7525d9-18bf-c025.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/cb7525d9-3581-4d13.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/cb7525d9-bc36-3202.jpg

Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio Z715e using Tapatalk 2

Fazli · September 11, 2012

My foam air filter element arrived within a week from purchase on ebay by RamAir Filters UK.

They are dual-density foam.

And each piece will make 2 pieces of the standard filter size.

Cut to fit snuggly into the frame so that edges are fully covered by the foam.

Now waiting to install on the bike to see the difference.

Bamm07 · October 19, 2012

Hi guys juz wonder whethwr this group have any fb group??

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

scoobydoo · November 16, 2012

Polycarbonate Motorcycle Windshields

What is polycarbonate?

Polycarbonates (PC), known by the trademarked names Lexan, Makrolon, Makroclear and others, are a particular group of thermoplastic polymers. Polycarbonate is a durable material. Although it has high impact-resistance, it has low scratch-resistance and so a hard coating is applied to polycarbonate eyewear lenses and polycarbonate exterior automotive components. The characteristics of polycarbonate are quite like those of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA, acrylic), but polycarbonate is stronger, usable in a wider temperature range, yet more expensive. This polymer is highly transparent to visible light, with better light transmission than many kinds of glass.

Because of these properties, polycarbonates find many applications. They are commonly used in products as diverse as DVDs, prescription lenses, aquarium windows and motorcycle windshields.

Bayer Material Science, the manufacturer of Makrolan, specifically recommends plastic polishes sold by Meguiars, Novus and Plexus to remove scratches from its polycarbonate.

http://www.meguiars.com.sg/images/products/327_large.jpghttp://www.novuspolish.com/images/products/heavy-scratch-remover.jpg

The "Grand mother" story...

Not long after the first motorcyclist rode down the unpaved highway of history, some clever rider came up with the idea of a motorcycle windshield... probably because the car in front of him threw some cow dung his way.

There is little recorded information on the appearance of the very first motorcycle windshield, but early European road racers often employed a small flyscreen made from a material the British referred to as Perspex. These were some of the earliest uses of the new polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plastic, developed in Germany by Rohm and Haas in 1928. This same material would later be marketed under names such as Plexiglasâ„¢, Acryliteâ„¢, and Luciteâ„¢.

In the 1930s and 40s, motorcycle windshields became popular, especially on large touring bikes. Early screens were made from materials like butyrate (cellulose acetate butyrate) and DuPont's Pyralin (cellulose nitrate). Both of these materials, however, were subject to chemical degradation from sun and weather, and these windshields quickly turned yellow and became flimsy. Wire frame stiffeners and PVC beaded edges were then added to extend the life of the average motorcycle windshield.

By the mid 1960s, windshields made from acrylic plastic material, such as AcryliteÂ® and ICI LuciteÂ®, became the standard in the motorcycle industry. Acrylic plastic had excellent clarity and optics, and was much stronger than a cellulose windshield. But when an acrylic windscreen broke, it shattered into razor-sharp, flesh-eating shards of plastic. For that reason, many riders stuck with their old yellow Pyralin windshields.

In 1975, National Cycle was the first company in the world to introduce and use General Electric's new MR4000 polycarbonate material (later called FMR hardcoated LexanÂ®) for motorcycle windshields. National Cycle's advanced windshield design and polycarbonate's inherent durability led to the first modern styled, optically clear, custom motorcycle windshield. They called it the Heavy Dutyâ„¢, and made windshield applications for both Harley-DavidsonÂ® and Japanese motorcycles, foreshadowing the soon-to-emerge metric cruiser market.

Soon after, the same material was used to develop a direct replacement screen for the popular BMWÂ® R100RT, which led to recognition by BMW North America for outstanding product development.

National Cycle's president, Barry Willey, chose Lexan polycarbonate for its superior strength â€“ 20X more impact resistant than acrylic, the standard material at that time for motorcycle windshields. An avid motorcycle enthusiast himself, Barry immediately realized the benefits of polycarbonate for motorcycle riders.

The rest, as they say, is history.

But however impact resistant polycarbonate is, its naturally soft surface must be hardcoated (polymerically glazed) to have sufficient abrasion resistance for use as a motorcycle windshield. GE's original FMR hardcoated polycarbonate had 3X the abrasion resistance of acrylic material, and it became the motorcycle industry standard until National Cycle made a "quantum" leap in hardcoating technology. Their exclusive Quantumâ„¢ hardcoating, developed in 2004, offered scratch resistance 10X greater than FMR and 30X greater than acrylic. Quantum is the new state-of-the-art for windshield hardcoating.

Hardcoated polycarbonate is now the accepted norm for both OEM and aftermarket motorcycle windshields. Why? Consider that ALL motorcycle helmet faceshields must be made from polycarbonate to be DOT approved. Consider also that all military and commercial aircraft windshields and canopies are made from polycarbonate.

The reason is that acrylic (and even High Impact Acrylic or "aircraft plastic") will shatter under moderate impact, often resulting in injury to the rider. In that respect, National Cycle's introduction of polycarbonate windshields was an innovation in motorcycle safety as well as durability.

Why windshields, headlights, headlight protectors turns yellow?

culprits are:

* weather... rain & shine (UV rays)

* environment pollutants (dirt & dust)

* chemicals (used during washing)

* road salt

* bugs

* etc etc

First question, what causes headlights to turn yellow and hazy? There are several things that come into play with an acrylic lens that are now standard in vehicle headlights. First is the environment we live in. The sun the rain, pollution, road salt and bugs eat away at the clearcoat on your headlights. Living in Florida the sun is strong all year and, although the clear coat is a UV protection, itâ€™s only good for 5 years. The length of time also depends on the make and model of your vehicle. Finally, cleaning products will have a feeding frenzy on the clear coat on the lens of your headlight. Using a regular detergent or taking your car to a car wash with those abusive bristles will strip away clear coat. Anyway you look at it, those headlights are going to need to be restored and restoring them is much cheaper than replacing them.

http://thebrandongazette.com/index.p...cles&Itemid=64

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