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[Discussion] TA 200 Fuel Consumption


LostRose

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  • 4 months later...
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Hi all Bros,

 

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Edited by vtec88
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  • 2 months later...
my phantom is having FC of about 30 to 34 km/l, seems bad. What could be the reason and how can I increase FC?

 

Not exactly bad. Mine did 33 on average. But im heavy n i ride hard.

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

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@naim i am of avg weight ( 60+ kg) and dont carry pillion rider. I tought FC of 35 - 40 lm/l is good and thought how could i achieve it. wondering if it is the carburetor ?

 

there might be a slight chance ur carb might have been tuned more on the rich side. but rmb other parts oso play a part. old bike like this the engine, chain, tyre, bearings or other parts wear n tear surely steal abit of the fuel economy. as long as ur bike not doing like 26-27, i tink not much for u to worry about. :)

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

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Ok. I was also thinking could it be because i pillon my wife a few times resulted me getting 37km/litre? Maybe can even get 38 or 39km/litre?

 

you planning to dump the wife? :faint:

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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my phantom is having FC of about 30 to 34 km/l, seems bad. What could be the reason and how can I increase FC?

 

Clean your chain with kerosene then lube it will a good lube.

I reccomend the easily availiable IPONE chain spray(not sand chain)

 

Then, gear 1,2,3 rev very little.

Pump esso 95.

 

Then report back here ok. :p

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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Clean your chain with kerosene then lube it will a good lube.

I reccomend the easily availiable IPONE chain spray(not sand chain)

 

Then, gear 1,2,3 rev very little.

Pump esso 95.

 

Then report back here ok. :p

 

Hahahaha! I must be more tired than I thought!

 

I read it as Clean you teeth with kerosene and tube it with toothpaste! :lol:

Motorcyclist are the nicest people on the road, try not to kill us.

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my phantom is having FC of about 30 to 34 km/l, seems bad. What could be the reason and how can I increase FC?

ur avg fc 30~34 km/l is good, >35 km/l is lean, >40 is extremely lean.

most novices n newbies do not understand is, lean fc is bad for ur bike.

stock is lean setting, engine is running hot, the leaner the hotter, extremely lean will be extremely hot.

u can felt a heat stove btwn ur legs, ur engine will overheat.

 

also it will be under power, whilst those 30~34km/l enjoy cruising with a cooler n performance engine.

those >35km/l lacks pickup, no power going up hill or up slope.

those >40km/l r even worst, needless to say, it will burnt the engine (more repair/overhaul).

 

dun believe me, u can compare those fc avg >35km/l.

their engine r much hotter n travel slow behind u trying hard to catch up.

 

if u want to save fuel, do not travel over 60 kph.

 

fc avg sub-30 km/l, their engine runs much cooler n better performance.

 

how-to-know if ur carb r tuned correctly:

check the spark plug electrode (end tip);

if it is lean, the end tip will be white color (burnt tip = extremely lean).

if it has good air/fuel mixture, the end tip will be brown or tan color.

if it is rich, the end tip will be black color (sooty = too rich).

Edited by stsoh
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It is not fair to give numbers to the FC to whether it is running lean or rich.

 

Follow the spark plug test when engine isnt cooled will tell you the ULTIMATE TRUTH :cheeky:

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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It is not fair to give numbers to the FC to whether it is running lean or rich.

 

wat is not fair?

if numbers r not fair, tats the reason i have stated to check the spark plug electrode as fair indications for whether it is lean, ok or rich.

i doubt those fc avg >35km/l r having brown tip on the spark plug electrode.

if it is brown tip, its in correct air/fuel mixture then there r no need to do anything.

 

 

Follow the spark plug test when engine isnt cooled will tell you the ULTIMATE TRUTH :cheeky:

i dun understand this statement?

wat spark plug test when isnt cooled........?

any sensible persons will not remove spark plug when engine is hot.

(i may not know sillyporeans r sensible or not, is tats why all wants to run their bikes lean?)

 

always wait til engine is cool down, then remove to check the spark plug electrode (end tip).

(note: using force to turn in/out spark plug will damage the threads).

 

wats if my bike runs lean n i want to tune it correctly?

either u find a good mech or learn to diy (trial n error).

Edited by stsoh
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i try to illustrate so tat it can be clearer for those whom dun understand.

 

as stated by honda manufacturer, output is 16 hp (horsepower) in stock form.

 

in 3 columns of km/l, hp n ct (combustion temperature)

 

km/l ----- hp ----- ct

>30 ------ 16 ----- 625~675 deg C (stock form)

>35 ------ 12 ----- 650~700 deg C

>40 ------ 08 ----- >700 deg C (this is where ur engine will be burnt)

 

(note: figures r not accurate, its assumed for illustration).

 

reason why temperature goes up:

lean mixture (insufficient fuel) burns slowly because of the wide spacing of the fuel molecules.

 

slow combustion leads to:

overheating of the cooling system caused by the flame being there for a longer period.

overheated exhaust valves, particularly if combustion continues after the valve opens.

 

horsepower went down becoz of lesser energy with lesser fuel burnt.

Edited by stsoh
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ur avg fc 30~34 km/l is good, >35 km/l is lean, >40 is extremely lean.

most novices n newbies do not understand is, lean fc is bad for ur bike.

stock is lean setting, engine is running hot, the leaner the hotter, extremely lean will be extremely hot.

u can felt a heat stove btwn ur legs, ur engine will overheat.

 

also it will be under power, whilst those 30~34km/l enjoy cruising with a cooler n performance engine.

those >35km/l lacks pickup, no power going up hill or up slope.

those >40km/l r even worst, needless to say, it will burnt the engine (more repair/overhaul).

 

dun believe me, u can compare those fc avg >35km/l.

their engine r much hotter n travel slow behind u trying hard to catch up.

 

if u want to save fuel, do not travel over 60 kph.

 

fc avg sub-30 km/l, their engine runs much cooler n better performance.

 

how-to-know if ur carb r tuned correctly:

check the spark plug electrode (end tip);

if it is lean, the end tip will be white color (burnt tip = extremely lean).

if it has good air/fuel mixture, the end tip will be brown or tan color.

if it is rich, the end tip will be black color (sooty = too rich).

 

i try to illustrate so tat it can be clearer for those whom dun understand.

 

as stated by honda manufacturer, output is 16 hp (horsepower) in stock form.

 

in 3 columns of km/l, hp n ct (combustion temperature)

 

km/l ----- hp ----- ct

>30 ------ 16 ----- 625~675 deg C (stock form)

>35 ------ 12 ----- 650~700 deg C

>40 ------ 08 ----- >700 deg C (this is where ur engine will be burnt)

 

(note: figures r not accurate, its assumed for illustration).

 

reason why temperature goes up:

lean mixture (insufficient fuel) burns slowly because of the wide spacing of the fuel molecules.

 

slow combustion leads to:

overheating of the cooling system caused by the flame being there for a longer period.

overheated exhaust valves, particularly if combustion continues after the valve opens.

 

horsepower went down becoz of lesser energy with lesser fuel burnt.

@stsoh Thanks for the detailed explnantion on how FC works in relation to hp/performance and possible damage to engine.

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wat is not fair?

if numbers r not fair, tats the reason i have stated to check the spark plug electrode as fair indications for whether it is lean, ok or rich.

i doubt those fc avg >35km/l r having brown tip on the spark plug electrode.

if it is brown tip, its in correct air/fuel mixture then there r no need to do anything.

 

 

 

i dun understand this statement?

wat spark plug test when isnt cooled........?

any sensible persons will not remove spark plug when engine is hot.

(i may not know sillyporeans r sensible or not, is tats why all wants to run their bikes lean?)

 

always wait til engine is cool down, then remove to check the spark plug electrode (end tip).

(note: using force to turn in/out spark plug will damage the threads).

 

wats if my bike runs lean n i want to tune it correctly?

either u find a good mech or learn to diy (trial n error).

 

A spark plug test should be done right after a drive and not after it has cooled down. :)

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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A spark plug test should be done right after a drive and not after it has cooled down. :)

 

technically u r not worng but it took a lot to explain.....many here r green.

do it after drive, its too hot, u might even damage the thread due to material expansion.

basic understanding is a lot better than jumping to pro without knowledgeable details.

Edited by stsoh
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technically u r not worng but it took a lot to explain.....many here r green.

do it after drive, its too hot, u might even damage the thread due to material expansion.

basic understanding is a lot better than jumping to pro without knowledgeable details.

 

Kudos to you, stsoh, for explaining. Anyway, trying to give sound and correct advice in forums is like wielding a 2-sided sword, you might cut yourself. Many older forum members will agree to that, myself or silent hunter included. :p

 

Just to add more data to the mix:

 

I'm 65kg +/- 2kg, travels approximately at an average of 110kmh (indicated on a 9 years old stock TA200), on stock sprockets and a lousy chain (regulary oiled), uses Silkolene 15w50 semi-syn engine oil, tops up with Ron92 petrol, done the spark plug check (OK, brown tip), averaging at approximately 37 - 39 km/litre.

Ride fast but safe... Skills matters most... the slow ONE... I WAS TOO SLOW at 1min 50.9sec :D

 

Past rides: Quite a few and different types

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Kudos to you, stsoh, for explaining. Anyway, trying to give sound and correct advice in forums is like wielding a 2-sided sword, you might cut yourself. Many older forum members will agree to that, myself or silent hunter included. :p

 

Just to add more data to the mix:

 

I'm 65kg +/- 2kg, travels approximately at an average of 110kmh (indicated on a 9 years old stock TA200), on stock sprockets and a lousy chain (regulary oiled), uses Silkolene 15w50 semi-syn engine oil, tops up with Ron92 petrol, done the spark plug check (OK, brown tip), averaging at approximately 37 - 39 km/litre.

 

yes, i know its bad here coz too many book-smarties, none wiser (im leaving too).

 

common sense is burnt less fuel means is lean, lesser energy = lesser power (under power) n overheat engine.

there isnt a miracle tat can produce more energy performance with lesser fuel.

many r still not wise enough to even have common sense.

 

u have indicated top end is lean n bottom end is ok.

 

carb has 3 stages tat control fuel metering:

1st stage is slow-jet n pilot-screw (also known as air-screw);

2nd stage is jet-needle positioning, where it can be shift its position up (rich) or down (lean).

3rd stage is main-jet, main-jet orifice size means bigger hole feeds more fuel at full throttle.

 

well, im disappointed tat most dun have common sense, as many r lead by short term gain in our society.

bye.

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Kudos to you, stsoh, for explaining. Anyway, trying to give sound and correct advice in forums is like wielding a 2-sided sword, you might cut yourself. Many older forum members will agree to that, myself or silent hunter included. :p

 

Just to add more data to the mix:

 

I'm 65kg +/- 2kg, travels approximately at an average of 110kmh (indicated on a 9 years old stock TA200), on stock sprockets and a lousy chain (regulary oiled), uses Silkolene 15w50 semi-syn engine oil, tops up with Ron92 petrol, done the spark plug check (OK, brown tip), averaging at approximately 37 - 39 km/litre.

@reaper_y wow! thats good FC!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, wanna ask if my fuel consumption is about 20+km/ l is it very bad?

 

when i pumped shell 95 i got about 29km/l

Pumped SPC 95 i got 23km/l!

pumped caltex 95 i got 26km /l..

i mostly ride TPE to changi, 100+-km speed. or travel from seng kang to clementi, sometime will caught in jam.

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Hi, wanna ask if my fuel consumption is about 20+km/ l is it very bad?

 

when i pumped shell 95 i got about 29km/l

Pumped SPC 95 i got 23km/l!

pumped caltex 95 i got 26km /l..

i mostly ride TPE to changi, 100+-km speed. or travel from seng kang to clementi, sometime will caught in jam.

 

yes it is if yr running ta200 .. at least 30-35.. my regular speed is 90-100kmh..not sure if its ta150 but it will be lower bcos 2stroke.

 

if u think that its yr slippin clutch thats causing the low milege do get it checked and serviced soon.. save the peace of mind for more fetter free ride!

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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yes it is if yr running ta200 .. at least 30-35.. my regular speed is 90-100kmh..not sure if its ta150 but it will be lower bcos 2stroke.

 

if u think that its yr slippin clutch thats causing the low milege do get it checked and serviced soon.. save the peace of mind for more fetter free ride!

 

dont think its a 2 stroke. if he can get 29km/l on a ta150 its most likely impossible

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yes it is if yr running ta200 .. at least 30-35.. my regular speed is 90-100kmh..not sure if its ta150 but it will be lower bcos 2stroke.

 

if u think that its yr slippin clutch thats causing the low milege do get it checked and serviced soon.. save the peace of mind for more fetter free ride!

ya mine's a ta 200. will try esso 95 nxt :)

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