[Discussion] TA 200 Fuel Consumption

[naim]

30+ still ok i guess.. i rmb there was once my FC was like 28-29... the cause = a dirty air filter.. changed it and got back ard 35+- ... if im gentle, i can get ard 37.. if ride as per normal (pretty hard! blast from the traffic lights or sumtyms cruise d expressway ard 110-120), can drop to as low as 31... haha!

[vtec88]

Hi Bros, have u guys tried BROQUET Fuel Charger?

Save Fuel, Increase Bike Power!!!

Tested and Proven by Forum Bikers Reviews.

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/235030-lt-CMO-gt-BROQUET-Fuel-Charger-%28UK%29-NEW-%28Torque-Top%29-DUAL-MODE-SELECTOR-Voltage-Stablize/page24

 

Do check it Out!!!

 

***********************

 

Honda Phatom TA200 BROQUET User Review

 

Hey man, think my review is long overdue.

 

Been taking readings for a while and based on average, broquet has helped me increase my fuel efficiency by 10km/l (TA200). In addition, it really does make the bike run smoother. I know this because I had my tank painted about a month after I got my broquet and they swapped my tank with another ta200 tank they had. Rode with it for 1 week and could really feel the difference. Thanks for the good stuff. Happy to get good FC again.

 

John (TA200)

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Optimise your fuel air ratio and keep the machine free from excess mechanical drag. If you have a noisy bike it probably tops out at 30 km per l. Fix it and it jumps up to 35 and 40. Take a note from those who know how to work the carburettor air correction screw.

 

No fuel additives or snake oil needed. The only bike I reviewed that relied on a certain magnetic fuel saving product had broken sprocket teeth, and chronic mismaintenance costing $200. This is the danger of believing marketing used by those 'put this in your tank and get more economy' bullshit.

 

There is nothing in petrol that gets affected by magnets, save for rust. And if the tank is rusty like on many older bikes, an inline fuel filter costs just $3.

 

Fuel economy is just like cosmetic surgery. You can spend thousands on useless products or be smart and don't waste a cent.

 

Sent from my hong kong gangsta phone using Tapatalk

[weiqiang]

thanks for the replies! i got 36km/l after cleaning filter with speed cap around 115km/h. but this time round i pump petrol within the next 3 days. so maybe got less evaporation? normally i 1 week plus then pump but last 3 days travelled alot.

[Zhi Ming]

thanks for the replies! i got 36km/l after cleaning filter with speed cap around 115km/h. but this time round i pump petrol within the next 3 days. so maybe got less evaporation? normally i 1 week plus then pump but last 3 days travelled alot.

 

i dun think evaporation matters...i pump once every 2 weeks, 450-480km travelled. constant 42-44km/L . I think its because u rode more expressway at constant speed rather then lots of traffic lights + cleaned filter thats why get higher FC.

 

Seriously, try capping your speed to 90. I am sure u will hit 40+.

[weiqiang]

i dun think evaporation matters...i pump once every 2 weeks, 450-480km travelled. constant 42-44km/L . I think its because u rode more expressway at constant speed rather then lots of traffic lights + cleaned filter thats why get higher FC.

 

Seriously, try capping your speed to 90. I am sure u will hit 40+.

 

hmm but i doubt i will be able to cap at 90. but 36 i already happy liao lol.

[bradneo]

For newer Phantoms (Custom 4 and above), I notice that there is no knob to switch to reserve tank. Does that mean that there is no reserve tank?

 

Also, after the low-fuel indicator lights up, about how much more petrol is left in the tank?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

For newer Phantoms (Custom 4 and above), I notice that there is no knob to switch to reserve tank. Does that mean that there is no reserve tank?

 

Also, after the low-fuel indicator lights up, about how much more petrol is left in the tank?

 

It will work like bikes like Yamaha cubs, Super 4 etc, the reserve appears to be automatic and there is no interruption in fuel supply. I assume the low-fuel indicator light is like riding "in the red" on other bikes.

 

Assuming no design differences in the tank, there is 9.68l of main tank (*) and 2 litres of reserve.

 

2 litres at 40km/l will net you an extra 80km range on reserve, but don't rely on it as riding style, machine tuning, etc determines fuel economy. So give it one last commute trip back home or to work and top it up at the end.

 

* - The main tank supply becomes unstable at about 9.4 to 9.5 litres as the sloshing of the fuel inside the tank starts to cut out the fuel flow into the main "feed". I usually top up after switching to reserve and doing 1 or 2 more commuting runs before topping up, giving me a fill up each time of about 9.5 to 9.8 litres.

[bradneo]

It will work like bikes like Yamaha cubs, Super 4 etc, the reserve appears to be automatic and there is no interruption in fuel supply. I assume the low-fuel indicator light is like riding "in the red" on other bikes.

 

Assuming no design differences in the tank, there is 9.68l of main tank (*) and 2 litres of reserve.

 

2 litres at 40km/l will net you an extra 80km range on reserve, but don't rely on it as riding style, machine tuning, etc determines fuel economy. So give it one last commute trip back home or to work and top it up at the end.

 

* - The main tank supply becomes unstable at about 9.4 to 9.5 litres as the sloshing of the fuel inside the tank starts to cut out the fuel flow into the main "feed". I usually top up after switching to reserve and doing 1 or 2 more commuting runs before topping up, giving me a fill up each time of about 9.5 to 9.8 litres.

 

Thanks for the detailed analysis. I got the low-fuel indicator lighting up, went for another 20km, and pumped about 8.3L. If main tank + reserve = 11.68L, I'll assume the low-fuel indicator lights up when about 3L of petrol is left in the tank.

 

I have been trying to get hold of the user manual for a TA200 custom 4. Can't seem to find one. Only found the manual for the earlier model of Phantom. Anyone knows where to get the manual for custom 4?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

The Phantom Thai forums which I sometimes participate in to write the Phantom wikipedia article also rely on PK forum discussions and our Singaporean pdf copy of the manual. So I don't think there is a updated Custom 4 manual circulating around.

 

Have you checked under the left side chrome cover? Maybe the manual is velcroed there

[bradneo]

The Phantom Thai forums which I sometimes participate in to write the Phantom wikipedia article also rely on PK forum discussions and our Singaporean pdf copy of the manual. So I don't think there is a updated Custom 4 manual circulating around.

 

Have you checked under the left side chrome cover? Maybe the manual is velcroed there

 

Indeed! I found the manual nicely stuffed in a brown plastic holder, together with a Wave 125 brochure and a servicing log book. Unfortunately, they are all in Thai.

 

I read the old English manual for the TA200, which mentioned about a tool kit in the right side. Indeed, the tool kit is there too. Ironically, getting to the tool kit means one must first have a screw driver. If it's not required, maybe removing the toolkit can save a few hundred grams on the Phantom and improve the FC.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Cool! If you can scan it in I'll upload it somewhere to get some Thai help or just for fun lol. Would love to see the Wave pamphlet.

 

I have some old Phantom brochures from Boon Siew and one from Stadium Accessories Co. in Thailand.

 

You can also use the tool compartment as storage space if you replace the screw with some quick release nut lol (or screw with the ring that allows it to be hand opened)

[bradneo]

Cool! If you can scan it in I'll upload it somewhere to get some Thai help or just for fun lol. Would love to see the Wave pamphlet.

 

I have some old Phantom brochures from Boon Siew and one from Stadium Accessories Co. in Thailand.

 

You can also use the tool compartment as storage space if you replace the screw with some quick release nut lol (or screw with the ring that allows it to be hand opened)

 

Oops, the Wave pamphlet was the first thing I threw away. Didn't see a need for it.

 

As for the manual, no promises about scanning it due to my time constraints. But if it's possible to scan as Thai text (instead of image), it might be possible to use Google translate to translate it automatically.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Thai OCR is something of a hassle. Think if I met up with you someday I can use an Android phone to do colour scanning on the spot (yes, some smartphones can be used as scanners ). Then post it out to the Thai forums and get them to do the translation for me.

 

Lol ride phantom and advertise Wave. Not really a lucrative "upgrade", is it lol!

[Funky]

Hi all,

 

Been riding my FW phantom for close to 2 years now. Got a 3 way box and mostly on west coast highway to office and back. Averaging above 40 km/l. Just want to share 2 tips I realize about FC efficiency.

 

1) Don't pump full tank (unless I going JB ;-P). More petrol can be heavier and reduce FC.

2) Learn to kill engine when waiting for traffic lights to turn. At 1st gear, open throttle while holding handbrakes and pedal brakes. When lights going to turn green, clutch in and press start button and you are ready to go.

 

For those who does city riding alot, I think point 2 will help a fair bit.

 

Ride safe and enjoy your rides! Cheers.

[CSV]

i don't understand how you can open throttle and hold the handbrake at the same time. Super long fingers? or you mean keep the rev up?

[Funky]

Aiyah, sorry....say wrongly....this is what happens when you post after midnight.

 

I mean release clutch fully to kill engine at first gear....no need to open throttle just brake firmly with either or both handbrakes and pedal brakes.

[stsoh]

30km/l for old tech 2-valves 4-strokes 200cc phantom should be the right amount of air/fuel mixture.

31~35km/l is on lean side, >35km/l way too lean.

too lean is bad for the engine even for saving a few cents of fuel (the only one main advantage).

 

lean air/fuel mix have many disadvantages:

1) overheated engine - seizure/stop functioning (bajaj pulsar have the same problems).

2) boiling engine oil will evaporated, also burnt engine oil. oil level will fall/drop, need to top up.

3) cooked engine oil will deteriorate it's functions to lubricate, cleanse, suspension carbon particles, flows, form sludge (known as black death), etc.

4) plastics, rubbers, seals, gaskets becomes harden n brittle due to extreme heat, soon oil will leak, electric will failure.

5) poor engine performance not running at optimum, poor engine starting.

6) so hot tat rubber melts on the exhaust muffler.

7) spark plug electrode end burnt off.

 

dun just think of saving fuel but run engine at optimum, u will enjoy better rides.

 

to check whether ur air/fuel mixture is correct, inspect the color of spark plug electrode end/leg:

1) white = too lean

2) grey = lean

3) brown or tan = good mix (correct mix)

4) black = rich

5) sooty = too rich

[bradneo]

Thai OCR is something of a hassle. Think if I met up with you someday I can use an Android phone to do colour scanning on the spot (yes, some smartphones can be used as scanners ). Then post it out to the Thai forums and get them to do the translation for me.

 

Lol ride phantom and advertise Wave. Not really a lucrative "upgrade", is it lol!

 

I've managed to use my iPhone and its PDFReader app to scan the manual. Here it is:

 

http://www.filesavr.com/X7SUW8C04V8LLDQ

 

Huge file. I guess all were stored as pictures. I don't think every page needs to be translated, since most of the Custom 4 parts are similar to the earlier Phantoms.

 

Feel free to do whatever you want with the file.

[Zhi Ming]

30km/l for old tech 2-valves 4-strokes 200cc phantom should be the right amount of air/fuel mixture.

31~35km/l is on lean side, >35km/l way too lean.

too lean is bad for the engine even for saving a few cents of fuel (the only one main advantage).

 

how to make the mixture richer?

[stsoh]

read this on how to tuning ur carb;

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/68265-How-to-do-carb-tuning

or do google search there r plentiful on how to tune a carb.

 

there so many phantom riders yet there still no one knows how to tune their carb?

yet no one knows too lean air/fuel mix is bad for their engine?

 

normally there r two common types of carb, namely 'CV' (constant vacuum) or 'slide valve' type.

points where u can set air/fuel mix r :

1) pilot (air) screw,

2) slow jet (can be brought for less than S$10/pc at any bike parts shop, it's better to up one size from stock),

3) main jet (can be brought for less than S$10/pc at any bike parts shop, it's better to up one size from stock),

4) jet needle has 5 slots at it's head where the clip determines the height position from top (lean) to bottom (rich).

Edited May 30, 2011 by stsoh

[Markopolo]

Funky ur method sounds very bad to the engine..

[CSV]

Aiyah, sorry....say wrongly....this is what happens when you post after midnight.

 

I mean release clutch fully to kill engine at first gear....no need to open throttle just brake firmly with either or both handbrakes and pedal brakes.

 

 

then i rather just use the kill switch on the handlebar, the lurching caused by the engine stalling probably is not good for the chain.

 

i'm happy with my bike's fuel consumption. some tinkling her and there and it runs faster and better than most phantom.

[stsoh]

stock bikes r set to lean to meet euro emissions standards as most manufacturers tried to export to europe.

south east asia, asia or basically third world countries don't care about it, as long as it is cheap to run.

experience riders will tune carb to their regional altitude which will improve engine power by about 5% without any engine mod.

not only retuning a stock bike improves performance, engine runs cooler n rides better.

dun believe me, there r a lot of phantom tat runs lean, get those n compare to those whom runs richer (which runs cooler).

the leaner it runs, the hotter the engine is (combustion temp at 700~800 deg C).

the richer it runs, the cooler the engine is (combustion temp at 600~700 deg C).

dun run too rich which will waste fuel, money n cause sooty plug.

correct mix will have brown or tan color at the spark plug leg(electrode).

come on guys, dun turn on death ears.

things i mentioned r not some newbie stuffs but common, i've been riding for many years on all sort of bikes.

learn n enrich yourself, improve on your motorcycle skill.

talk to your guru, i believe he is ah khun (or someone else, not sure).

if he dun understand, then he is guru no more, just another phantom chopper.

running lean is worst than abusing a bike which save a penny on fuel but cost a lot more on repairs n eo changes.

in fact the leaner your bike runs, it generate more carbon monoxide which is more dangerous n pollutant than carbon dioxide.

proof me wrong.......else stay at stock settings but pls dun run too lean, if u want 40km/l then ride a cub.

Edited May 31, 2011 by stsoh

[Funky]

Funky ur method sounds very bad to the engine..

 

Stopping engine at first gear is what's recommended when parking on a slope. Just imagine you are on a slope whenever you stop at a traffic light.

 

My bike's almost 10 year liao. Besides, what do you think happen when you turn off the ignition key after neutral gear? Seriously, it's your call lah.