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Posted

After changing eo to Motul 5100 15W50, I noticed that the drain bolt was not tight and it was leaking oil very slowly. Now I have got it tightened but still very very slow leak. May be a problem with the drain bolt? The leak is very very slow, drops dont fall on the floor but if I touch the drain bolt I can feel the oil.

 

Should I change the drain bolt now and reuse the oil or just wait for 2k kms and may be top up in between by Motul 3100 15W50. After all semi-synthetic is 70% mineral only rite? Any problem with topping up of same grade, same brand but mineral oil in semi-synthetic oil?

May '10 - Jun '11 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG2

Jul '11 - Jan '12 : Honda Phantom TA200

Feb '12 - Jul '12 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG3

Aug '12 - Current : Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi

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Posted

@revhappy - no need to wait for your next OCI (oil change interval) to repair the drain plug, a good bike shop has enough skill and muscle power to suspend the bike on its side while another person replaces the drain plug.

 

Sadly my experience with Motul 5100 isn't as good as the other Phantom riders on SBF; I preferred Chex9000 for silent running, low drag and more importantly zero oil consumption (DIY tuned engine for max torque = destroys EO fast)

 

Topping up - you can use anything in an emergency but it's good to stick to the same oil manufacturer, that way you can be assured the additive packages are compatible.

Posted

Thanks Kalyan!

May '10 - Jun '11 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG2

Jul '11 - Jan '12 : Honda Phantom TA200

Feb '12 - Jul '12 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG3

Aug '12 - Current : Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi

Posted

hi guys I have a bottle of 4 litre Synace 5W40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil from SPC... issit suitable for silverwing after running in? or this is for cars not for bikes de...??

For every Minute you are angry.. :angry:

U lose 60 seconds of happiness.. :cheeky:

 

2007 - 2010 Aprillia Sportcity 200

2010 - 2012 Honda SW-T400 TYPE RR

Posted
hi guys I have a bottle of 4 litre Synace 5W40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil from SPC... issit suitable for silverwing after running in? or this is for cars not for bikes de...??

 

Good thing you asked first! Using car oil in a bike has a risk of causing clutch slippage!

 

Read the label - does the advertising say "friction reducers" or anything similar? If it doesn't have friction reducers, then it's safe for bike use (AT OWN RISK!) but if it does... you'd better not try unless your motorcycle has a dry clutch.

 

If you really want to use a car oil for your bike then Mobil 1 Turbodiesel is great for bike engines (source: foreign bike enthusiasts/oil engineers). But with the wide availability of proper M/C oils in Singapore, save that knowledge for touring :3

Posted
Good thing you asked first! Using car oil in a bike has a risk of causing clutch slippage!

 

Read the label - does the advertising say "friction reducers" or anything similar? If it doesn't have friction reducers, then it's safe for bike use (AT OWN RISK!) but if it does... you'd better not try unless your motorcycle has a dry clutch.

 

If you really want to use a car oil for your bike then Mobil 1 Turbodiesel is great for bike engines (source: foreign bike enthusiasts/oil engineers). But with the wide availability of proper M/C oils in Singapore, save that knowledge for touring :3

 

Thanks Thanks.... i'm riding a silverwing and is running on dry clutch....

For every Minute you are angry.. :angry:

U lose 60 seconds of happiness.. :cheeky:

 

2007 - 2010 Aprillia Sportcity 200

2010 - 2012 Honda SW-T400 TYPE RR

Posted
Thanks Thanks.... i'm riding a silverwing and is running on dry clutch....

 

I don't see why not. I would go ahead with it.

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

now i using motul fully syn.. 30 dollar one.. nice man.. nth beats it

2010 july 10-sept 14: Daelim Roadwin 125

16 sept 2010 - 5 oct 2012: Bajaj pulsar 200 DTSI

18 march 2013- ? : Honda NSR sp

 

I once set on a S1000r and the curse begun, u never wanna ride anything else besides sports bikes ever again!

Posted
now i using motul fully syn.. 30 dollar one.. nice man.. nth beats it

 

Is it Motul 300V factoryline? Yes thats the big daddy of all EOs just like Chivas Regal in Scotch whiskey:thumb:

May '10 - Jun '11 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG2

Jul '11 - Jan '12 : Honda Phantom TA200

Feb '12 - Jul '12 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG3

Aug '12 - Current : Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys, I'm using Maxima 10w40 for my 10year old Super 4 spec 1. It was fine, but since some time back, when the engine was started, it seems rather noisy. Rough mechanical noises, abit like there's something stirring in the engine like that. Seems like 10w40 oil could be too light for my oil bike?

 

If yes, is it recommended that i change to a w50 oil, or higher?

 

Does synthetic or non-synthetic matters in this case?

 

I'll be going on a trip to genting next month, so am thinking i had better fix this noise first!

From Honda's manual:

The motorcycle presents you a challenge to master the machine, a challenge to adventure. You ride through the wind, linked to the road by a vehicle that responds to your commands as no other does...

Posted

My experience with oils indicates that some oils are quieter than others. Castrol and Motul was deafening on my favourite Thai chopper, Chex9000 was almost silent sometimes.

 

The mechanical noises may be just that the bike has sat for a while during the oil change and the top-end of your blocks are a bit dry. That means the "strange noises" should go away when you ride it. Still strange to me as my experience, engine gets quieter after an oil change due to the fresh protection.

 

If it continues to be noisy enough to upset your confidence in the machine then it's a fair suggestion to go back to your previous brand of motor oil.

 

As for using W50 instead of W40 - that depends on what sort of oil is recommended for a CB400. CB400 owners' thread might yield better offhand advice, in that respect.

Posted

Just changed engine oil to PENNZOIL FASTRAC TITANIUM 4T 100% SYNTHETIC SAE 10W-40... will post reviews once clocked in more distance with the oil. in the meantime anyone here already using the oil for some time and got reviews?

Posted

Hi Ken, thanks for the pointers! Have checked the manual. It says to use between w30 to w40, depending on the atmospheric temperature where I am using the bike. I shall stick to using w40 in that case then.

From Honda's manual:

The motorcycle presents you a challenge to master the machine, a challenge to adventure. You ride through the wind, linked to the road by a vehicle that responds to your commands as no other does...

Posted

I have did a few oil change using Unil Opal 4T Titanium Fully Syn 5W50 for my FZ1, previously was using Motul 300V. Engine are running very smooth up to 5000km and discover slight increase of FC up to 16 - 17 km/Liter (Previously was 14 - 15 km/Liter). Get it from some advertisment at abt $15/Bottle is quite value for money for some one who willing to try out new oil as the seller is providing free delivery.

Posted
Just changed engine oil to PENNZOIL FASTRAC TITANIUM 4T 100% SYNTHETIC SAE 10W-40... will post reviews once clocked in more distance with the oil. in the meantime anyone here already using the oil for some time and got reviews?

 

 

Yes i used already the SEMI Syn Penzzoil Fastrac Titanium 4T 10W40. Not Bad. Currently i am on the 100% Fully Synthetic Penzzoil Fastrac Sae10W40. I can say it is better than the semi. Can feel the immediate performance effect. No heavy feel. Love it. Mileage still don know yet. See how far this 4T can perform.

History n Present ride

Nov '00 till Dec '00 - Aprilia RS 125cc 1 Mth

Dec '00 till Oct '05- Yamaha RXZ Delux 135cc 4 Years 11Mths

Feb '04 till Dec '09 - Honda Wave-S 125cc 5 Years 10Mths

Dec '09 till Sept '12 - Yamaha FZ150i 2 Years 9Mths

Sept 12 till Aug '19 - Yamaha Spark 135 RX 6 Years 11Mths

Aug '19 till Present - Honda CB125F

Posted

been to a few mechanics when changing of EO, spark plug, oil fiter... basic stuff(normally stick to 1 mechanic for more non-basic stuff)

some old timers normally nudge me and comment on what type of EO i use for my spark 135, and they say it's rather wasted to use FULLY-SYN 4t as 4-stroke 2B bike like spark tend to "eat" or break down the engine oil, thus resulting to lesser engine oil left(if you're a person which change EO more than 1500km interval)

now i normally use semi or even mineral... if mineral can use those good brands with JASO, and good ratings one... like motul etc....

now im using xrev, those 15 bucks ones... so far so good... will see on the next EO change... btw, i always change at about 1500km...

MY MEAN MACHINES

 

01.2008 - 12.2009 - NSR150SP FT7**Z

12.2009 - 4.2011 - L.C. 135 FBE 11**C

4.2011 - 11.2013 - Super K.I.P.S FY 45** H

11.2013 - ?.??.???? - YZF - R6 FBD 33** C

12.2013 - ?.??.???? - Wave 125 FY 12** K

 

#RTNW

Posted (edited)
been to a few mechanics when changing of EO, spark plug, oil fiter... basic stuff(normally stick to 1 mechanic for more non-basic stuff)

some old timers normally nudge me and comment on what type of EO i use for my spark 135, and they say it's rather wasted to use FULLY-SYN 4t as 4-stroke 2B bike like spark tend to "eat" or break down the engine oil, thus resulting to lesser engine oil left(if you're a person which change EO more than 1500km interval)

now i normally use semi or even mineral... if mineral can use those good brands with JASO, and good ratings one... like motul etc....

now im using xrev, those 15 bucks ones... so far so good... will see on the next EO change... btw, i always change at about 1500km...

 

for 15buck why don't you try chex 9000? it 1buck more. heard nothing but good things about it.

Edited by Isopropyl
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

As prices of Motul oil gradually increase due to high demand (and the brand's motorsports heritage), cheap synthetic oils do have a market. While they may not give you the same "feel good" sense when using Motul 300V Factoryline, all synthetic oils exhibit better high temperature/high shear, and cold start performance than their mineral counterparts, due to a homogenous molecular structure.

 

But the really cheap ones? The cheapest I went is $16 for Chex 9000, which is great. I'll wait for reviews on the $9.90 one before giving it a shot, as I don't mind the $16-24 pricetag (the 24 is Amsoil from @Team HKL Racing) for the benefits of synthetic oil from a reputable source.

Posted

i am a big believer in amsoil too. just change to it MCF EO. but i guess it AMO EO is good enough for me consider my rider style. i might try the $9.90 EO at my next change. but still abt 5000km++ away. i will change EO based on manufacturer recommendation. i don't believe changing earlier then that unless the engine is being mod or extremely hard riding style. the maker had tested the bike to come out with the figure and i trusted them more then some mech at the workshop trying to get you to change sooner then needed. even that, i sure the figure they given is below what the oil can actually do. they will give a safety margin. Engineer trained believe in engineer :p

Posted

In the States, oil enthusiasts (some of them are engineers themselves) state that full synthetic oil can last ten thousand miles or more without degrading, if there is a good oil filtration system in the vehicle. They're definitely not talking about sportsbikes though. Or cheap Thai choppers with no oil filter.

 

Since I don't have an oil filter, I stick to the "classic bike" rule of one thousand miles per oil change. Heck, it's only one litre :D

Posted

I recommend Ah Boy $3 EO for older, Ah Pek bikes.

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted
In the States' date=' oil enthusiasts (some of them are engineers themselves) state that full synthetic oil can last ten thousand [u']miles[/u] or more without degrading, if there is a good oil filtration system in the vehicle. They're definitely not talking about sportsbikes though. Or cheap Thai choppers with no oil filter.

 

Since I don't have an oil filter, I stick to the "classic bike" rule of one thousand miles per oil change. Heck, it's only one litre :D

 

true. bike with no oil filter need shorter oil change interval espically old bike. an oil with a good detergent will help alot in this case to suspense the dirt. also synthetic oil is less prone to break down resulting in less carbon or soot.

 

i just spoke with a friend. he use those $5 dino oil with his super 4. for the pass 12years, he only change every 12,000km. no engine problem, no overhaul. only problem is his radiator start to leak after 10years of not changing coolant:p same as alot of those JB workers at my work place. they hardly do much to their bike yet without problem.

 

it make me think that most of the expensive EO is overkill for our daily usage . Motul is too expensive for like liking. i like amsoil for it good performance and price ratio. extremely well document performace data which most other brand does not provide.

 

i believe a cheap and good synthetic should be enough. get all the protection we need as well as other benefit like better FC with synthetic. carlube EO should be next. haha...

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