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Honda NSR150SP Riders


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1) might be fuses blown or bulb blown. get a multimeter and check if got resistance across those parts. have resistance means that part can work, no resis mean blown and need to replace. or could be your coil or rectifier gone. rectifier and fuse and DIY replace and cheaper than going to shop.

 

2)proabably never service for awhile and too much carbon in the block and rc valve. the valve open at 7k so that's why you feel a lot of vibration at 6k onwards.

 

3) temps is during normal highway/road riding or when lane splitting/stuck in jams? mine will go above middle when stuck in jam like at customs or jams and cant lanesplit. other than that even if whack during afternoon hot sun will be at middle most of the time. open your rider seat and you'll see 2 tanks. the one on the right side of the bike is coolant tank. top up to the full/high marking. dont add water, buy coolant from petrol station or motorshop. normal ones will do. or could be your radiator fins bents, clogged inside with crap or pump spoil.

 

seems like you need to do a full service and change all your fluid: engine oil, coolant, brake fluid etc because it sounds like the bike has been sitting there and never use for long time

 

Hey crazybiker! Thanks for the input! Will check those out asap. Any idea how much roughly for full service?

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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smok3anddfly,

 

You did not specify what type of vibrations youre experiencing. Is it a high frequency buzz at the handlebars? If yes, thats normal at abt 6k+ revs. But that should smoothen out at higher revs say 7k onwards.

 

But if the vibrations are the sort like knocking & shaking type as you ride fast, then that 1 is steering cone or wheel bearings worn out. For me it felt like riding an earthquake when at 8k revs+. Problem disappeared after changing steering cone & front wheel bearings.

 

The rest i think crazybiker has answered quite well.

 

But just to add abt battery - If with lights on cannot start, but with lights off can start => battery abt to die, change. Dim lights or flickering lights => battery weak, need to charge. Let the bike run idle with some revs until lights brighten up. If they dim down again after releasing the revs => battery not keeping charge, time to change. If by revving & doesnt improve the situation => battery not charging => rectifier prblm. If while on the road & come to a stop, lights start to dim/flicker & suddenly the whole bike goes dead & refuse to start => battery dead, change.

 

Fuse - Dashboard lights, signal lights, brake/rear lights, head lights all out at the same time => blown fuse. I kena before 1 nite. Inside the fuse box have 2 spare fuses. Use the spare to change with the blown 1. Chk fuse either with multimeter or take out one by one & check. Planet charged me $10 i think to change.

I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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That time ah boy no motul so I bought belray. Honestly the ride about the same la. But belray will smell like plastic burning. Maybe you'll feel abit different. Don't have the same 'smooth' ride when you use belray compared to motul. But that's just your mind. Cause it's too used to motul liao.

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That time ah boy no motul so I bought belray. Honestly the ride about the same la. But belray will smell like plastic burning. Maybe you'll feel abit different. Don't have the same 'smooth' ride when you use belray compared to motul. But that's just your mind. Cause it's too used to motul liao.

 

ah boy bring in belray also? didnt see before. how much ah?

i always see the shelf full of 2t and 4t

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went to ah boy today.

 

putoline rs959 is $15

motul 710 is $20

belray h1r $23

 

only saw like 3 bottles of belray in the top left corner. didnt see belray si-7. i read belray website it seems that h1r is more for track racing and 'street racing', si-7 is normal fully synth ester.

 

bought my usual motul and 1 putoline to test, total supposed to be $35 but he sold me $33 :bouncefire:. and carousell also sell putoline for $15

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this method seems more thourough, because he heat different section. i go bapok they just fire from the end and leave it there. 10 mins or less and finish

 

Which shop you went? The 1 i went to was x performance motors. They heat up section by section. The 1st time i went there was good. The guy did neck, belly & end. Took abt 20mins + of heating. Wait to cool & respray. belly is rm48 & endcan is rm 28. The 2nd time i went there was a new guy, only did neck & belly, charged me rm 70+ . When i questioned him abt the prev price, he said price increased liao. :angry:

 

Just dont go to the 1st corner shop you see. Didnt do proper thorough job, Didnt remove endcan, a bit more ex then x performance & worst of all used water to cool down the exhaust! :angry::angry: The exhaust is steel. Must air cool. Quenching steel just makes the material brittle => steel changes to martensite.

Edited by jbdoggy

I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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went to ah boy today.

 

putoline rs959 is $15

motul 710 is $20

belray h1r $23

 

only saw like 3 bottles of belray in the top left corner. didnt see belray si-7. i read belray website it seems that h1r is more for track racing and 'street racing', si-7 is normal fully synth ester.

 

bought my usual motul and 1 putoline to test, total supposed to be $35 but he sold me $33 :bouncefire:. and carousell also sell putoline for $15

 

When i 1st coverted back to pump, the shop recommended by the prev owner filled my tank with Challenger fully synthetic 2t. Supposedly for high performance 2t engine. Philipino or Thai brand $10. Engine not smooth.

 

So when that 1 almost used up i top up with my original castrol power 1 racing 2t. This 1 also not bad, quite smooth. $18 from bendemeer rd. Most other shops sell abt $23-$25. But funny thing is if use jb v power, the exhaust smell is very pungent. With sg petrols is ok.

 

Now using motul 710 or if cant find motul, Elf moto 2 race. Elf also ester. At 8k revs v v nice & smooth. But ex la rm95 & can only get in jb.

 

I think generally ester the best for sp cos the ester molecules are attracted to metal. So always assured of an oil film in the cylinder even on morning starts.

Edited by jbdoggy

I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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Which shop you went? The 1 i went to was x performance motors. They heat up section by section. The 1st time i went there was good. The guy did neck, belly & end. Took abt 20mins + of heating. Wait to cool & respray. belly is rm48 & endcan is rm 28. The 2nd time i went there was a new guy, only did neck & belly, charged me rm 70+ . When i questioned him abt the prev price, he said price increased liao. :angry:

 

Just dont go to the 1st corner shop you see. Didnt do proper thorough job, Didnt remove endcan, a bit more ex then x performance & worst of all used water to cool down the exhaust! :angry::angry: The exhaust is steel. Must air cool. Quenching steel just makes the material brittle => steel changes to martensite.

seen a few shops do it like that for other customers, one was the shop beside kok seng. X performance signboard what colour?
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seen a few shops do it like that for other customers, one was the shop beside kok seng. X performance signboard what colour?

 

X performance is red signboard. One of the units somewhere in the middle of that whole slope. Cant miss it la...the signboard is perpendicular to the road. So as you enter that lorong just keep your eyes up for the signboard. All the mechs wear red t shirts. Quite a number of sg bikes go there too. Its also one of the very few shops which have a boutique upstairs.

 

I changed all my fairing screws there too.

I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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any shop to recommend to change swing arm bearing? and price?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I did mine at Tai Seng Kooi. The bearing set at rear wheel rm300+. The bearing at the part which connects the swing arm to the chassis is rm160.

I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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thanks. is TSK a good shop to do SP?

 

I only trust Planet & TSK with my SP.

 

TSK in the past had a team racing sps. Now they race ninja 250s.

 

But those bearings which i mentioned, need to order. You can gv them a call & then you go there to install after they get the parts. The bearing which connects swingarm to chassis, cant do on sunday cos that bearing needs to be punched in. The punching shop closed on sun. So sat or weekdays only can do that 1.

I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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