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Posted

I just got a lobang for Frame slider...

 

I got to know a machinist, his workshop can fabricate the slider for less. using Tough and Light weight Aluminum alloy (High Grade). Also discuss about replacement (during crash, TOUCH-WOOD if either side damaged), he said he can fabricate the either side of the silder at 50% price of full set. NO need to buy full set.

 

I have given him my set of SV650 sliders (bought from EBay) and ask him to follow the design and give me a sample. Will take a pic when done. How much you guys willing to pay? Branded sliders for SV is about ±$80, EBAY selling US$50+.

 

As A-Slacker told me from his experience the original slider is not long enough to prevent damages to the fairing, I asked the machinist to make a set that is 1inch longer...

91-92: 84 Yam LC125

95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW

97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400

01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE

04-11: 99 Suz SV650S

05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE

06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan

11-12: 02 BMW F650GS

12-16 01 BMW R1150GS

When- Burgman Tmax ??

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Posted

Ano,

 

That headlight quite ex after converting to Sin Dollars leh...

 

:cheer: :cheer: :cheer:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1140039.jpghttp://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1130008.jpg
Posted

KooTeowMan,

 

Didn't know that you are famous at Guan Hoe Workshop. Went there today with Denden. First question that pops from the boss mouth when he sees an SV rider "Do You Know Albert?"

 

After that, very good service from the boss and the workshop guys. Care to share what have you been doing at the workshop to give such a good impression on SV riders? Must really buy you a drink one of these days.

 

:thumb:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1140039.jpghttp://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1130008.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by Limsteel@Aug 10 2006, 11:42 AM

I just got a lobang for Frame slider...

 

I got to know a machinist, his workshop can fabricate the slider for less. using Tough and Light weight Aluminum alloy (High Grade). Also discuss about replacement (during crash, TOUCH-WOOD if either side damaged), he said he can fabricate the either side of the silder at 50% price of full set. NO need to buy full set.

 

I have given him my set of SV650 sliders (bought from EBay) and ask him to follow the design and give me a sample. Will take a pic when done. How much you guys willing to pay? Branded sliders for SV is about ±$80, EBAY selling US$50+.

 

As A-Slacker told me from his experience the original slider is not long enough to prevent damages to the fairing, I asked the machinist to make a set that is 1inch longer...

Bro,

 

Haven't been hearing from you. Did you pop by Guan Hoe workshop recently? Cos the boss mentioned that a blue SV has been there awhile ago for some servicing.

 

The slider you mentioned about, is the bolt made of stainless steel? Hopefully not made from LimSteel. :smile:

 

Jokes aside, recently one of the SV riders fixed a pair of frame slider for $60. Would be good if the price range is around there. Let's take a look at the photos when it's done.

 

:thumb:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1140039.jpghttp://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1130008.jpg
Posted

The Pace (Part I)

Nick Ienatsch's article on The Pace

 

Reprinted w/o permission as originally published in Motorcyclist, Nov 91.

 

Racing involves speed, concentration and commitment; the results of a mistake are usually catastrophic because there's little room for error riding at 100 percent. Performance street riding is less intense and further from the absolute limit, but because circumstances are less controlled, mistakes and overagressiveness can be equally catastrophic. Plenty of roadracers have sworn off street riding. "Too dangerous, too many variables and too easy to get carried away with too much speed," track specialists claim. Adrenaline-addled racers find themselves treating the street like the track, and not surprisingly, they get burned by the police, the laws of physics and the cold, harsh realities of an environment not groomed for ten tenths riding. But as many of us know, a swift ride down a favorite road may be the finest way to spend a few free hours with a bike we love. And these few hours are best enjoyed riding at The Pace.

 

A year after I joined the Motorcyclist staff in 1984, Mitch Boehm was hired. Six months later, The Pace came into being, and we perfected it during the next few months of road testing and weekend fun rides. Now The Pace is part of my life--and a part of the Sunday-morning riding group I frequent. The Pace is a street technique that not only keeps street riders alive, but thoroughly entertained as well.

 

THE PACE

 

The Pace focuses on bike control and de-emphasizes outright speed. Full-throttle acceleration and last minute braking aren't part of the program, effectively eliminating the two most common single-bike accident scenarios in sport riding. Cornering momentum is the name of the game, stressing strong, forceful inputs at the handlebar to place the bike correctly at the entrance of the turn and get it flicked in with little wasted time and distance. Since the throttle wasn't slammed open at the exit of the last corner, the next corner doesn't require much, if any, braking. It isn't uncommon to ride with our group and not see a brake light flash all morning.

 

If the brakes are required, the front lever gets squeezed smoothly, quickly and with a good deal of force to set entrance speed with minimum time. Running in on the brakes is tantamount to running off the road, a confession that you're pushing too hard and not getting your entrance speed set early enough because you stayed on the gas too long. Running The Pace decreases your reliance on the throttle and brakes, the two easiest controls to abuse, and hones your ability to judge cornering speed, which is the most thrilling aspect of performance street riding.

 

YOUR LANE IS YOUR LIMIT

 

Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you're pushing too hard to keep up. Even when you have a clean line of sight through a left-hand kink, stay to the right of the centerline. Staying on the right side of the centerline is much more challenging than simply straightening every slight corner, and when the whole group is committed to this intelligent practice, the temptation to cheat is eliminated through peer pressure and logic. Though street riding shouldn't be described in racing terms, you can think of your lane as the racetrack. Leaving your lane is tantamount to a crash.

 

Exact bike control has you using every inch of your lane if the circumstances permit it. In corners with a clear line of sight and no oncoming traffic, enter at the far outside of the corner, turn the bike relatively late in the corner to get a late apex at the far inside of your lane and accelerate out, just brushing the far outside of your lane as your bike stands up. Steer your bike forcefully but smoothly to minimize the transition time; don't hammer it down because the chassis will bobble slightly as it settles, possibly carrying you off line. Since you haven't charged in on the brakes, you can get the throttle on early, before the apex, which balances and settles your bike for the drive out.

 

More often than not, ciccumstances do not permit the full use of your lane from yellow line to white line and back again. Blind corners, oncoming traffic and gravel on the road are a few criteria that dictate a more conservative approach, so leave yourself a three- or four-foot margin for error, especially at the left side of the lane where errant oncoming traffic could prove fatal. Simply narrow your entrance on a blind right-hander and move your apex into your lane three feet on blind left turns in order to stay free of unseen oncoming traffic hogging the centerline. Because you're running at The Pace and not flat out, your controlled entrances offer additional time to deal with unexpected gravel or other debris in your lane; the outside wheel track is usually the cleanest through a dirty corner since a car weights its outside tires most, scrubbing more dirt off the pavement in the process, so aim for that line.

 

A GOOD LEADER, WILLING FOLLOWERS

 

The street is not a racing environment, and it takes humility, self assurance and self control to keep it that way. The leader sets the pace and monitors his mirrors for signs of raggedness in the ranks that follow, such as tucking in on straights, crossing over the yellow line and hanging off the motorcycle in corners. If the leader pulls away, he simply slows his straightaway speed slightly but continues to enjoy the corners, thus closing the ranks but missing none of the fun. The small group of three or four riders I ride with is so harmonious that the pace is identical no matter who's leading. The lead shifts occasionally with a quick hand sign, but there's never a pass for the lead with an ego on the sleeve. Make no mistake, the riding is spirited and quick--in the corners. Anyone with a right arm can hammer down the straights; it's the proficiency in the corners that makes The Pace come alive.

 

Following distances are relatively lengthy, with the straightaways---taken at more moderate speeds--the perfect opportunity to adjust the gaps. Keeping a good distance serves several purposes, besides being safer. Rock chips are minimized and the highway patrol won't suspect a race is in progress. The Pace's style of not hanging off in corners also reduces the appearance of pushing too hard and adds a degree of maturity and sensibility in the eyes of the public and the law. There's a definite challenge to cornering quickly while sitting sedately on your bike.

 

New rider indoctrination takes some time because The Pace develops very high cornering speeds and newcomers want to hammer the throttle on exits to make up for what they lose at the entrances. Our group slows drastically when a new rider joins the ranks because our technique of moderate straightaway speeds and no brakes can suck the unaware into a corner too fast, creating the most common single-bike accident. With a new rider learning The Pace behind you, tap your brake lightly well before the turn to alert him and make sure he understands there's no pressure to stay with the group.

 

There's plenty of ongoing communication during The Pace. A foot off the peg indicates debris on the road, and all slowing or turning intentions are signaled in advance with the left hand and arm. Turn signals are used for direction changes and passing, with a wave of the left hand to thank the cars that move right and make it easy for the motorcyclists to get past. Since you don't have a death grip on the handlebar, you left hand is also free to wave to oncoming riders, a fading courtesy that we'd like to see return. If you're getting the idea The Pace is a relaxing, noncompetitive way to ride with a group, you are right.

 

RELAX AND FLICK IT

 

I'd rather spend a Sunday in the mountains riding at The Pace than a Sunday at the racetrack, it is that enjoyable. Countersteering is the name of the game, a smooth forceful steering input at the handlebar relayed to the tires contact patches through a rigid sport-bike frame. Riding at The Pace is certainly what the bike manufacturers had in mind when sport bikes evolved to the street.

 

But the machine isn't the most important aspect of running The Pace because you can do it on anything capable of getting through a corner. Attitude is The Pace's most important aspect; realizing the friend ahead of you isn't a competotor, respecting his right to lead the group occasionally and giving him credit for his riding skills. You must have the maturity to limlt your straightaway speeds to allow the group to stay in touch and the sense to realize that racetrack tactics such as late braking and full throttle runs to redline will alienate the public and police and possibly introduce you to the unforgiving laws of gravity. When the group arrives at the destination after running The Pace, no one feels outgunned or is left with the feeling he must prove himself on the return run. If you've got something to prove, get on a racetrack.

 

The racetrack measures your speed with a stopwatch and direct competition, welcoming your agression and gritty resolve to be the best. Performance street riding's only yardstick is the amount of enjoyment gained, not lap times, finishing position or competitors beaten. The differences are huge but not always remembered by riders who haven't discovered The Pace's cornering pureness and group involvement. Hammer on the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.

video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-594683847743189197

 

 

 

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/brendanchin/Yee.jpg

Posted

The Pace (Part II)

Nick Ienatsch's Pace Philosophy

 

Reprinted w/o permission as originally published in Sport Rider, June 93.

 

PACE YOURSELF

 

The street is not the track - It's a place to Pace

 

Two weeks go a rider died when he and his bike tumbled off a cliff paralleling our favorite road. No gravel in the lane, no oncoming car pushing him wide, no ice. The guy screwed up. Rider error. Too much enthusiasm with too little skill, and this fatality wasn't the first on this road this year. As with most single-bike accidents, the rider entered the corner at a speed his brain told him was too fast, stood the bike up and nailed the rear brake. Goodbye.

 

On the racetrack the rider would have tumbled into the hay bales, visited the ambulance for a strip of gauze and headed back to the pits to straighten his handlebars and think about his mistake. But let's get one thing perfectly clear: the street is not the racetrack. Using it as such will shorten your riding career and keep you from discovering the Pace. The Pace is far from street racing - and a lot more fun.

 

The Pace places the motorcycle in its proper role as the controlled vehicle, not the controlling vehicle. Too many riders of sport bikes become baggage when the throttle gets twisted - the ensuing speed is so overwhelming they are carried along in the rush. The Pace ignores outright speed and can be as much fun on a Ninja 250 as on a ZX-11, emphasizing rider skill over right-wrist bravado. A fool can twist the grip, but a fool has no idea how to stop or turn. Learning to stop will save your life; learning to turn will enrich it. What feels better than banking a motorcycle over into a corner?

 

The mechanics of turning a motorcycle involve pushing and/or pulling on the handlebars; while this isn't new information for most sport riders, realize that the force at the handlebar affects the motorcycle's rate of turn-in. Shove hard on the bars, and the bike snaps over; gently push the bars, and the bike lazily banks in. Different corners require different techniques, but as you begin to think about lines, late entrances and late apexes, turning your bike at the exact moment and reaching he precise lean angle will require firm, forceful inputs ant the handlebars. If you take less time to turn your motorcycle, you can use that time to brake more effectively or run deeper into the corner, affording yourself more time to judge the corner and a better look at any hidden surprises. It's important to look as far into the corner as possible and remember the adage, "You go where you look."

 

DON'T RUSH

 

The number-one survival skill, after mastering emergency braking, is setting your corner-entrance speed early, or as Kenny Roberts says, "Slow in, fast out." Street riders may get away with rushing into 99 out of 100 corners, but that last one will have gravel, mud or a trespassing car. Setting entrance speed early will allow you to adjust your speed and cornering line, giving you every opportunity to handle the surprise.

 

We've all rushed into a corner too fast and experienced not just the terror but the lack of control when trying to herd the bike into the bend. If you're fighting the brakes and trying to turn the bike, any surprise will be impossible to deal with. Setting your entrance speed early and looking into the corner allows you to determine what type of corner you're facing. Does the radius decrease? Is the turn off-camber? Is there an embankment that may have contributed some dirt to the corner?

 

Racers talk constantly about late braking, yet that technique is used only to pass for position during a race, not to turn a quicker lap time. Hard braking blurs the ability to judge cornering speed accurately, and most racers who rely too heavily on the brakes find themselves passed at the corner exits because they scrubbed off too much cornering speed. Additionally, braking late often forces you to trail the brakes or turn the motorcycle while still braking. While light trail braking is an excellent and useful technique to master, understand that your front tire has only a certain amount of traction to give.

 

If you use a majority of the front tire's traction for braking and then ask it to provide maximum cornering traction as well, a typical low-side crash will result. Also consider that your motorcycle won't steer as well with the fork fully compressed under braking. If you're constantly fighting the motorcycle while turning, it may be because you're braking too far into the corner. All these problems can be eliminated by setting your entrance speed early, an important component of running the Pace.

 

Since you aren't hammering the brakes at every corner entrance, your enjoyment of pure cornering will increase tremendously. You'll relish the feeling of snapping your bike into the corner and opening the throttle as early as possible. Racers talk about getting the drive started, and that's just as important on the street. Notice how the motorcycle settles down and simply works better when the throttle is open? Use a smooth, light touch on the throttle and try to get the bike driving as soon as possible in the corner, even before the apex, the tightest point of the corner. If you find yourself on the throttle ridiculously early, it's an indication you can increase your entrance speed slightly be releasing the brakes earlier.

 

As you sweep past the apex, you can begin to stand the bike up out of the corner. This is best done by smoothly accelerating, which will help stand the bike up. As the rear tire comes off full lean, it puts more rubber on the road, and the forces previously used for cornering traction can be converted to acceleration traction. The throttle can be rolled open as the bike stands up.

 

This magazine won't tell you how fast is safe; we will tell you how to go fast safely. How fast you go is your decision, but it's one that requires reflection and commitment. High speed on an empty four-lane freeway is against the law, but it's fairly safe. Fifty-five miles per hour in a canyon may be legal, but it may also be dangerous. Get together with your friends and talk about speed. Set a reasonable maximum and stick to it. Done right, the Pace is addicting without high straightaway speeds.

 

The group I ride with couldn't care less about outright speed between corners; any gomer can twist a throttle. If you routinely go 100 mph, we hope you routinely practice emergency stops from that speed. Keep in mind outright speed will earn a ticket that is tough to fight and painful to pay; cruising the easy straight stuff doesn't attract as much attention from the authorities and sets your speed perfectly for the next sweeper.

 

GROUP MENTALITY

 

Straights are the time to reset the ranks. The leader needs to set a pace that won't bunch up the followers, especially while leaving a stop sign or passing a car on a two-lane road. The leader must use the throttle hard to get around the car and give the rest of the group room to make the pass, yet he or she can't speed blindly along and earn a ticket for the whole group. With sane speeds on the straights, the gaps can be adjusted easily; the bikes should be spaced about two seconds apart for maximum visibility of surface hazards.

 

It's the group aspect of the Pace I enjoy most, watching the bikes in front of me click into a corner like a row of dominoes, or looking in my mirror as my friends slip through the same set of corners I just emerged from.

 

Because there's a leader and a set of rules to follow, the competitive aspect of sport riding is eliminated and that removes a tremendous amount of pressure from a young rider's ego - or even an old rider's ego. We've all felt the tug of racing while riding with friends or strangers, but the Pace takes that away and saves it for where it belongs: the racetrack. The racetrack is where you prove your speed and take chances to best your friends and rivals.

 

I've spend a considerable amount of time writing about the Pace (see Motorcyclist, Nov. '91) for several reasons, not the least of which being the fun I've had researching it (continuous and ongoing). But I have motivations that aren't so fun. I got scared a few years ago when Senator Danforth decided to save us from ourselves by trying to ban superbikes, soon followed by insurance companies blacklisting a variety of sport bikes. I've seen Mulholland Highway shut down because riders insisted on racing (and crashing) over a short section of it. I've seen heavy police patrols on roads that riders insist on throwing themselves off of. I've heard the term "murder-cycles" a dozen times too many. When we consider the abilities of a modern sport bike, it becomes clear that rider techniques is sorely lacking.

 

The Pace emphasizes intelligent, rational riding techniques that ignore racetrack heroics without sacrificing fun. The skills needed to excel on the racetrack make up the basic precepts of the Pace, excluding the mind-numbing speeds and leaving the substantially larger margin for error needed to allow for unknowns and immovable objects. Our sport faces unwanted legislation from outsiders, but a bit of throttle management from within will guarantee our future.

 

THE PACE PRINCIPLES

 

Set cornering speed early. Blow the entrance and you'll never recover.

 

Look down the road Maintaining a high visual horizon will reduce perceived speed and help you avoid panic situations.

 

Steer the bike quickly. There's a reason Wayne Rainey works out - turning a fast-moving motorcycle takes muscle.

 

Use your brakes smoothly but firmly Get on and then off the brakes; don't drag 'em.

 

Get the throttle on early Starting the drive settles the chassis, especially through a bumpy corner.

 

Never cross the centerline except to pass Crossing the centerline in a corner is an instant ticket and an admittance that you can't really steer your bike. In racing terms, your lane is your course; staying right of the line adds a significant challenge to most roads and is mandatory for sport riding's future.

 

Don't crowd the centerline Always expect an oncoming car with two wheels in your lane.

 

Don't hang off in the corners or tuck in on the straights Sitting sedately on the bike looks safer and reduces unwanted attention. It also provides a built-in safety margin.

 

When leading, ride for the group Good verbal communication is augmented with hand signals and turn signals; change direction and speed smoothly.

 

When following, ride with the group If you can't follow a leader, don't expect anyone to follow you when you're setting the pace.

video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-594683847743189197

 

 

 

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/brendanchin/Yee.jpg

Posted

Cornering Speeds

OFF IDLE:

Lotsa laps, load of miles

 

BY NICK IENATSCH

 

This sport, the one you're so addicted to, is unmatched in terms

of thrill and difficulty. Because of those assets, mistakes mean

more than hitting a ball into the net like Andre Agassi or throwing

an interception lke Brett Favre. Those guys can afford to make

mistakes, we can't. Rather than spend the next few years

learning from the school of hard knocks, let's shortcut the

learning curve by examining a few of the ways we hit the ground.

 

We crash on cold tires. And everyone who falls off cold tires says

the same thing: "Man I was going SO SLOW!" Respect cold - and

especially new and cold - tires by giving them a few miles to

warm up, and develop an inner alarm that gongs every time you

start a ride. Cold tires can handle smooth, subtle braking,

accelerating and cornering inputs. Just don't be aggressive.

 

We crash on overloaded tires. Modern sportbike tires will do

amazing things, but traction is finite. Tires begin to slide when

they become overloaded, like when too much front brake or too

much throttle is combined with too much lean angle. Those

scenarios push either the front or rear tire over the traction edge.

If it's a gentle push, the rider can usually gather it back up, but

if the traction edge is leaped over, the rider is down before he

knows it. We can sneak up on these traction limits by slowing

and smoothing our control applications. The faster your bike, the

smoother you need to work the brakes and throttle.

 

We can crash trying to catch up. The motorcycle has very little to

do with a rider's speed on backroads, but until you understand

that fact, using the throttle to keep up your friends seems like a

viable option. Trouble is, your focus has just gone from riding

technique and trying to read the road to trying to hang on with

your more experienced friends. Don't succumb to this

temptation. Ride at your own pace and keep studying the sport.

Learn to transition your bike off the throttle, onto the brakes and

into the corner's apex. Riding on the street isn't about going fast,

it's about attaining repeatability at speeds that won't freak out

your brain. Get it right going slow and don't worry about anyone

else.

 

We crash because we want to go fast. Freddie Spencer has a

great line: "This is a slow corner. I'm going to go.....slow!" On the

street, these "slow corners" can include intersections, school

zones, blind crests, unfamiliar roads, crowded freeways, gravel

strewn backroads etc. The riders that scare me the most are the

ones that can't slow down. Thirty miles per hour doesn't seem

fast until you see some idiot going that speed while splitting

lanes in stopped traffic. Speed reduces time and adds distance

in an emergency situation. Recognize and respect dangerous

situations that can be remedied by slowing down.

 

We crash because we bail out. What do you do when you enter a

corner too hot? First, understand that the term "too hot" probably

means that your brain is overwhelmed, not that the bike is at its

limits. You freak out because you missed a downshift or didn't

go to the brake lever or got surprised by an unforeseen situation,

but the bike could probably still make it through the corner if your

brain could just settle down. Do these three things: 1) LOOK

through the corner. The brain doesn't know the pavement exists

until the eyes see it. If you look off the road, the bike will

follow. 2) LEAN into the corner until the bike is dragging on the

ground. That's the limit. 3) BELIEVE in modern technology and

know that if you are looking into the corner and leaning all the

way over, the bike could still make it. Too many riders enter a

corner too hot, stand up the bike and nail the rear brake. Look,

lean and believe.

 

We crash because we aren't mentally there. Your motorcycle

covers 88 feet per second at 60 mph, so an instant's inattention

moves you quite a distance. If you're thinking about work, your

family, the scenery... slow down or pull over. If you're thinking

about your riding, make sure you're thinking about the next

corner, the next intersection, the next brake application...the

future. You can't turn back time, so forget a previous mistake and

look to the next situation. Ride ahead of your bike.

 

We crash because we rush corner entrances. Kenny Roberts

said "Slow in, fast out." Think of the entrance as preparation for

the exit. On your next ride, try reducing your corner-entrance

aggression by 5 percent. Literally ride into the corners slower

than you feel you could enter, and watch how much better your

exits get, how much better you get your bike steered down to the

apex, how much earlier you can pick up the throttle, how much

more relaxed you are. It worked for Roberts when winning three

world championships, and it works for street riders who want to

make it to breakfast every Sunday morning for the rest of their

lives. Most single-bike crashes come from too much entrance

speed.

 

We crash because we can't keep up with the motorcycle. Today's

sportbikes are the safest, most competent motorcycles in

history, yet they continue to hit the ground. Make sure your

software is equal to the hardware. Practice emergency braking.

Take advantage of the many riding schools and open track days

in your area. I can speak for the rest of the Sportbike staff when I

say if we hadn't visited the racetrack on our testbikes, we

wouldn't have had half as much fun or discovered the true

performance available from these amazing machines.

 

Discussing crashes is a no-no in some magazines. That's too

bad, because rather than commit a mistake that leads to

damage, I'd much rather learn that lesson from someone else's

goof! Don't be afraid or embarassed to work hard on your riding,

because the better your technique becomes, the more your bike

will reveal to you and the more joy this sport will deliver.

video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-594683847743189197

 

 

 

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/brendanchin/Yee.jpg

Posted
Originally posted by SV650@Aug 10 2006, 10:24 PM

KooTeowMan,

 

Didn't know that you are famous at Guan Hoe Workshop. Went there today with Denden. First question that pops from the boss mouth when he sees an SV rider "Do You Know Albert?"

 

After that, very good service from the boss and the workshop guys. Care to share what have you been doing at the workshop to give such a good impression on SV riders? Must really buy you a drink one of these days.

 

:thumb:

Go Guan Ho just mention Albert's name got discount!!!!!

 

Bring him there personally better discount. :cheer: :cheer:

 

I'm going there tml, anyone want some mass discount?

video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-594683847743189197

 

 

 

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/brendanchin/Yee.jpg

Posted
Originally posted by SV650@Aug 10 2006, 10:24 PM

KooTeowMan,

 

Didn't know that you are famous at Guan Hoe Workshop. Went there today with Denden. First question that pops from the boss mouth when he sees an SV rider "Do You Know Albert?"

 

After that, very good service from the boss and the workshop guys. Care to share what have you been doing at the workshop to give such a good impression on SV riders? Must really buy you a drink one of these days.

 

:thumb:

Regular Customer..

Posted
Originally posted by Denden@Aug 10 2006, 11:22 PM

Go Guan Ho just mention Albert's name got discount!!!!!

 

Bring him there personally better discount. :cheer: :cheer:

 

I'm going there tml, anyone want some mass discount?

First you wana become agent for MotoWorld. Now you also wana become agent for Guan Hoe. Thinking of a career switch???

 

o_O o_O o_O

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1140039.jpghttp://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1130008.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by Denden@Aug 10 2006, 11:22 PM

Go Guan Ho just mention Albert's name got discount!!!!!

 

Bring him there personally better discount. :cheer: :cheer:

 

I'm going there tml, anyone want some mass discount?

Discount your horsepower. Everything want discount...

I, a poor citizen of Singapore, also dun have discount, how come you guys have?

Posted

He has just change from SV man to SD man. SD--> Super Discount!!! Wahaha...

 

:cheeky: :cheeky: :cheeky:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1140039.jpghttp://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1130008.jpg
Posted

Anyone want to get a SV1000?

 

Downpayment 2000sgd

Three months wait

OTR price will be around 19000sgd to 20000sgd range

 

I'm staging an order, max 6 units only.

Please list down yr name

 

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-594683847743189197

 

 

 

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/brendanchin/Yee.jpg

Posted

Denden , 19k-20 is the actual price Looi's quoted you ?

åƒé‡‘难买早知é“.......

Posted
Originally posted by Denden@Aug 11 2006, 11:33 PM

Anyone want to get a SV1000?

 

Downpayment 2000sgd

Three months wait

OTR price will be around 19000sgd to 20000sgd range

 

I'm staging an order, max 6 units only.

Please list down yr name

 

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

looi's burnt a big hole in their last shipment of SV1000.

 

It was selling quite cheap... "heard" (here I think) it was about 15K. The last one was sold to an AngMo I "heard" again (here I think). now become 20K... are they charging higher to recoup their loses? :cheeky:

91-92: 84 Yam LC125

95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW

97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400

01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE

04-11: 99 Suz SV650S

05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE

06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan

11-12: 02 BMW F650GS

12-16 01 BMW R1150GS

When- Burgman Tmax ??

Posted
Originally posted by Denden@Aug 11 2006, 11:33 PM

Anyone want to get a SV1000?

 

Downpayment 2000sgd

Three months wait

OTR price will be around 19000sgd to 20000sgd range

 

I'm staging an order, max 6 units only.

Please list down yr name

 

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

According to websites/magazines the price of a new SV1000S is almost the same as a GSXR600.

 

Does a brand new G6 cost $19-20k?

Posted

According to one of my mag the SV650 naked cost about the same as a V-tec Spec 3. Why dun they just sell the 650cc?

Posted

Actually.... the bike shop quoted 17k+ to 18k Was just trying to make some money out of you people....muahahahahaha....

 

But honestly, who's interested? If there are more people whom are really interested, I can find out more. I'm sure there's a way to get it cheaper without going through the bike shop.

 

Prices will be transparent. No cheating anymore..... hahahahaha

video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-594683847743189197

 

 

 

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/brendanchin/Yee.jpg

Posted
Originally posted by Denden@Aug 13 2006, 02:47 AM

Actually.... the bike shop quoted 17k+ to 18k Was just trying to make some money out of you people....muahahahahaha....

 

But honestly, who's interested? If there are more people whom are really interested, I can find out more. I'm sure there's a way to get it cheaper without going through the bike shop.

 

Prices will be transparent. No cheating anymore..... hahahahaha

People open bike shop don't make money from customers then make money from where?

This is the order of nature! Don't make the economy of Singapore poorer!

Posted

Was pondering if any of u ever had the tot of rising ur handle bar???

 

http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showth...?threadid=17808

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k127/jytheorem/SV%20-%20Skinzo/SV_jy.gif http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k127/jytheorem/jy_sv.jpg

Wonder y my ST11 dun look as good as my SV...

Posted

SV650 or SV700 for 2007?

http://www.raptorsandrockets.com/images/2007_Suzuki_SV_yr.JPG

 

Another version?

http://www.raptorsandrockets.com/images/Suzuki_SV2007r.JPG

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