Yamaha FJR1300

[chung]

Originally posted by EmptyVessel@May 16 2006, 05:11 PM

chung, have you looked up http://www.fjr1300.info yet?

din manage to find anything that works.

do highlight if u find anything that i haven't try.

thanks.

[chung]

Originally posted by n@kan0@May 16 2006, 05:24 PM

Wah, FJR-er so many probs one ah.... maybe should just keep my viffer...

Its not the FJR got many prob lah.

For my case it could be just one prob.

Unfortunately, just yet to identify it.

[E.V.ilyn]

Originally posted by chung@May 16 2006, 05:40 PM

din manage to find anything that works.

do highlight if u find anything that i haven't try.

thanks.

try creating an account and post in the forum and ask for past experiences troubleshooting clues. much faster than wading through the wealth of information. so far i've not been reading more than the first 2 pages each time i visit the forums (once a month or longer) and don't recall reading anything like your case.

 

if all else fails then approach one of the many reputed and trust mechanics around.

[none]

Originally posted by n@kan0@May 16 2006, 05:24 PM

Wah, FJR-er so many probs one ah.... maybe should just keep my viffer...

Every make and model of motorcycles has their own problems.

02 VFR also got a few issues, and were mostly resolved in your version.

 

But I find it very rewarding to find and solve any problems as the bike gets older.

[Pauche]

Originally posted by none@May 16 2006, 08:15 PM

Every make and model of motorcycles has their own problems.

02 VFR also got a few issues, and were mostly resolved in your version.

 

But I find it very rewarding to find and solve any problems as the bike gets older.

maybe someday i should go to your carpark to dismantle some wires/parts from ur bike. then u go rectify the problem and solve it.

 

i think that is very rewarding eh?

[FJRRider]

Originally posted by chung@May 16 2006, 10:21 AM

HL cant identify the problem unless i leave it there for them to check.

There is no fault code.

I din leave the bike there cos not sure how long they will take.

They suggested that i try fiddling with the CO levels.

The bike stalled agian yesterday and this morning after warm up.

RPM dipped to 500 after the auto-choke phase.

Noticed some knocking as well.

RPM will stable after 5 mins of riding.

 

Not sure who to turn to now for help.

Now trying to adjust the CO levels day by day.

me oso thik it the TPS sensor prob..

hv a fren ridin a FZ6, facin the same prob like u.

solve the prob aft chgin away the TPS sensor...

 

 

thik beter gt sm beter bike shop 2 chk on ur baby...

 

:goodluck:

[ashenZ]

hey chung.. i agree too... tink itz the TBS sensor...

 

Rumor has is dat a batch of FZ6or 1 for faulty TBS probz... but no recall was made..... but onli when things turnz bad..... HL will individualli change it for free...

 

Frankly... i see how HL does things... i totalli tink they got no service and mechanical standards at all....

 

dats y i always tell otherz dun go back for anything other den warranty claims.... things juz get worse over there.... probz moz for FJR cases coz i tink they do not hv the skill n knowledge to fix it.. though itz one of their moz expensive models they bring in....

[Singlish]

Hi Chung

I had the same problem 3 times now

After a ride to Muar this weekend I lost the 1,000 rpm tick over setting had lunch & rode back home without any problem

Took it to HL yesterday

The problem was the Throttle Position Sensor which they changed

They also did a re sychronise of the 4 throttle bodies

Bike runs very smooth now Though I havn't taken it for a long run yet

Regards

Terry aka Singlish

[ashenZ]

hey terry~

 

long time no see~!~!

 

wot do u mean by the 1,000rpm tick over setting?

 

did HL charge u for the TPS sensor which they change?

[chung]

There seems to be some improvement after i lower the CO level to below -30.

I'll observe the fuel consumption for the next two weeks.

The original setting was 2, 16, 3, 16 for cylinder 1 to 4 respectively.

But there is a wide rage for the CO level setting which range from -126 to +128.

Would appreciate if you guys could check ur CO level setting to let me have a feel of the closer range of working settings.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Instruction is available here.

[chung]

Originally posted by Singlish@May 17 2006, 11:48 AM

Hi Chung

I had the same problem 3 times now

After a ride to Muar this weekend I lost the 1,000 rpm tick over setting had lunch & rode back home without any problem

Took it to HL yesterday

The problem was the Throttle Position Sensor which they changed

They also did a re sychronise of the 4 throttle bodies

Bike runs very smooth now Though I havn't taken it for a long run yet

Regards

Terry aka Singlish

Thanks.

I've tried doing the following procedure to check the TPS.

 

Checking the TPS Sensor

 

This test is done using the Diagnostic screen. How to:

 

With the key off, press and hold the "Select" and "Reset" buttons simultaneously and turn the key on (do not start, just ON), continue to hold the buttons until the display next to the fuel gauge says diAG (5-10 seconds).

 

Release the two buttons. Now, press the "Select" and "Reset" buttons simultaneously again. After ~ 2 seconds the display should show d1:01 on top and a two digit number at the bottom. You are now looking at the throttle position sensor (TPS) output. The TPS value is the two digits at the bottom of the display.

 

Turning the throttle will change the digits. Normal is 15-17 with the throttle closed and 97 to 100 with the throttle wide open. When the TPS goes bad it can be catastrophic, where the two digit value is just plain wrong and doesn't follow the throttle at all. This could be the TPS, it could be in the harness that connects to the TPS or it could be the ECU.

 

The other failure mode of the TPS is to have 'dead spots' as the throttle is opened. This is the most common failure and it usually occurs at roughly 20-40% of throttle opening because that is range where the throttle is positioned for most riding. To check this -- very, very slowly open the throttle from full closed to full open and observe that the numbers climb with no skipped numbers and no drop-out readings (e.g. 45, 46, 47, 01, 01, 48, 49) The 01 reading is a 'drop-out'. This failure is almost certainly the TPS.

 

To leave the diAG mode simply turn the key off. Done.

 

 

Alan

quoted from http://www.fjrforum.com

link

 

May be i'll try again when the engine is hot.

[Cybernation]

Hi guys, my ride is just about 2 weeks old. For the last 2 days the ABS indicator came on for afew times.

 

I just came back from HL. The mechanic says that it could be the bike not charging well.. Logical? He then commented that my rpm seems low and adjusted it to about 1k. Ask me to monitor then. Braking still feels ok at low speed. No hard braking yet. Any of you experienced the same?

[DiabolicZero]

Hi Guys, I've just placed an order for Ohlins shock absorber.

 

Total damages : S$1800nett including installation

Model : YA342

Type : 46PRCS

Motodiam : Sporting Motors

Contact : Chong aka Fatboy

 

Will provide a FR once installed.

[nkan0]

Originally posted by Casper4XXX@May 17 2006, 03:49 PM

Hi Guys, I've just placed an order for Ohlins shock absorber.

 

Total damages : S$1800nett including installation

Model : YA342

Type : 46PRCS

Motodiam : Sporting Motors

Contact : Chong aka Fatboy

 

Will provide a FR once installed.

Great Bro!!!

[DiabolicZero]

Originally posted by Cybernation@May 17 2006, 03:18 PM

Hi guys, my ride is just about 2 weeks old. For the last 2 days the ABS indicator came on for afew times.

 

I just came back from HL. The mechanic says that it could be the bike not charging well.. Logical? He then commented that my rpm seems low and adjusted it to about 1k. Ask me to monitor then. Braking still feels ok at low speed. No hard braking yet. Any of you experienced the same?

It may be due to a faulty wirings. Did you ride the bike in the rain recently?

Some bros here mentioned that the light went off after a few days of riding, guess the water or vapour must have evaporated.

 

Ideal idling should be around 900 - 1100rpm.

[Cybernation]

Originally posted by Casper4XXX@May 17 2006, 08:31 PM

It may be due to a faulty wirings. Did you ride the bike in the rain recently?

Some bros here mentioned that the light went off after a few days of riding, guess the water or vapour must have evaporated.

 

Ideal idling should be around 900 - 1100rpm.

Hmm, come to think of it.. I just washed the bike last weekend..

 

Btw, you guys heard of power abuser by extreme equipment? And the grounding package they have? If there is how is the feedback..

[ashenZ]

waahh serious arrhh... u guys starting to mod ya bikes.. hehe....

 

guess i lurV it the way it is... mi seeems to be getting the TPS probz also...

 

btw.... was told dat dun nid to change the whole rear absorber... juz buy a new set of front n rear spring from tink penzoil... or sumting.... will do the trick.. less den $1K... heard from my mechanic... he juz did dat for ST11 n FZ1.... and a FJR i tink....

[deanz4]

Originally posted by ashenZ@May 18 2006, 01:01 AM

waahh serious arrhh... u guys starting to mod ya bikes.. hehe....

 

guess i lurV it the way it is... mi seeems to be getting the TPS probz also...

 

btw.... was told dat dun nid to change the whole rear absorber... juz buy a new set of front n rear spring from tink penzoil... or sumting.... will do the trick.. less den $1K... heard from my mechanic... he juz did dat for ST11 n FZ1.... and a FJR i tink....

who yr mechanic bro?

[DiabolicZero]

Originally posted by ashenZ@May 18 2006, 01:01 AM

waahh serious arrhh... u guys starting to mod ya bikes.. hehe....

 

guess i lurV it the way it is... mi seeems to be getting the TPS probz also...

 

btw.... was told dat dun nid to change the whole rear absorber... juz buy a new set of front n rear spring from tink penzoil... or sumting.... will do the trick.. less den $1K... heard from my mechanic... he juz did dat for ST11 n FZ1.... and a FJR i tink....

The original absorber (for ABS version) cost S$980. HL able to give 10% while AM 20%, before GST and installation charges.

 

Nt sure if the leak will come back again in another 3years time.

The seller is damn steady as to sponsor me $500, so might as well change it to Ohlins once and for all.

Vey much better absorber and need not worry bout future leaks, the most just send it back for rebuilt which cost around $300.

Furthermore, if give up riding still can sell half price to fellow FJRians.

 

Thought left right up down for many days before deciding to go for it. Think I'm the first FJRian to change it (according to sporting motors).

 

Rebuilding the existing faulty one doesn't gurantee the leak will nt appear again. No warranty! At least Ohlins comes with one year warranty.

 

Will be damn leong after installing it.

[ashenZ]

wot u say is quite true too..... but r u changing the front springs too? since.... the front n back aint the same..... tink the settings will be diff?

 

Dean : moi mechanic is frm Pang Scooters @ B. merah

[mutant_sheep]

Originally posted by chung@May 17 2006, 12:33 PM

There seems to be some improvement after i lower the CO level to below -30.

I'll observe the fuel consumption for the next two weeks.

The original setting was 2, 16, 3, 16 for cylinder 1 to 4 respectively.

But there is a wide rage for the CO level setting which range from -126 to +128.

Would appreciate if you guys could check ur CO level setting to let me have a feel of the closer range of working settings.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Instruction is available here.

mine is 4,7,7,7.

& mine is same year as urs,same colour as well

[mutant_sheep]

thinking of slot in a pair of remus

[chung]

Originally posted by mutant_sheep@May 18 2006, 10:19 AM

mine is 4,7,7,7.

& mine is same year as urs,same colour as well

thanks.

sure pray that u'll nvr hv the same prob.

[DiabolicZero]

Originally posted by ashenZ@May 18 2006, 08:41 AM

wot u say is quite true too..... but r u changing the front springs too? since.... the front n back aint the same..... tink the settings will be diff?

Where got so much vitamin M??

Try out the rear first before thinking of upgrading the front, if neccessary.

Too bad I'm not born a rich man son.

[Guest cheeko]

Originally posted by Casper4XXX@May 18 2006, 03:15 PM

Where got so much vitamin M??

Try out the rear first before thinking of upgrading the front, if neccessary.

Too bad I'm not born a rich man son.

u should have gotten the FJR from me save u tons of headache afterwards