All about Steed

[Kevs]

Kev I think you got the calculation wrong. When you hit reserve at 200km there are still 3.4L in the tank. So the calculation should be...

 

200km/ 7.6L = 26.31KM/Litre..This is already good FC bro.

 

For me ,I will top up to full tank. Take the mileage reading and divide it by the amount of petrol that I pump in.

 

OH! So I've been using the wrong format calculation all this time...

Cos I thought the reserves are stored somewhere else...

 

Hmm... Cos maybe I'm used to my TA's FC(km)/L, so when just switch over to the Steed makes my wallet feeling pinched.. haha...

 

Hmm, but then if I take your method of calculating(take mileage/amount pumped, I've would got lesser km/L?!

 

Assume I hit 190km+/-, needing to pump(bike jerking) before I turn reserve, so when I pump, to my memory, its was abt 10+L, so: 190km/10L = 19/L(+/-)...

 

Qn:

So is this calculation correct?

If so, which is more accurate? From the manual or by the abv mentioned method?

Consider FC higher, if calculating this way?

Or should we really hit until the reserves, then take the mileage/amount pumped?

 

Pardon my "newbie" qns, cos this is something Im trying to understand how it works all along...

[jemmo]

hey can steed change to a bigger tank right? Are there any limitations regarding the sizes or stuff like that?

[louisiana]

OH! So I've been using the wrong format calculation all this time...

Cos I thought the reserves are stored somewhere else...

 

Hmm... Cos maybe I'm used to my TA's FC(km)/L, so when just switch over to the Steed makes my wallet feeling pinched.. haha...

 

Hmm, but then if I take your method of calculating(take mileage/amount pumped, I've would got lesser km/L?!

 

Assume I hit 190km+/-, needing to pump(bike jerking) before I turn reserve, so when I pump, to my memory, its was abt 12+L, so: 190km/12L = 15.833333km/L(+/-)...

 

Qn:

So is this calculation correct?

If so, which is more accurate? From the manual or by the abv mentioned method?

Consider FC higher, if calculating this way?

Or should we really hit until the reserves, then take the mileage/amount pumped?

 

Pardon my "newbie" qns, cos this is something Im trying to understand how it works all along...

 

Bro you sure your Steed using original tank??? How you manage to pump in 12+L???

[Kevs]

Bro you sure your Steed using original tank??? How you manage to pump in 12+L???

 

Erm ya, the 3rd tank after it was brought to here 16yrs ago...

First 2 all corroded & burst. Think currently is the VSE model's judging from the paint works, on my VLX model.

 

Oops... What was I thinking... Sorry sorry... hahah..

 

Edited my qn...

[louisiana]

Assume I hit 190km+/-, needing to pump(bike jerking) before I turn reserve, so when I pump, to my memory, its was abt 10+L, so: 190km/10L = 19/L(+/-)...

 

Qn:

So is this calculation correct?

If so, which is more accurate? From the manual or by the abv mentioned method?

Consider FC higher, if calculating this way?

Or should we really hit until the reserves, then take the mileage/amount pumped?

 

Pardon my "newbie" qns, cos this is something Im trying to understand how it works all along...

 

Frankly I cannot think of any other method of calculating FC. If someone have better ways to calculate FC please share. By the way bro Kev the mileage taken is after you pump in petrol not the mileage when you hit reserve.

[plasticblackspecs]

Why so many sine cosine formula one? hee. Mileage traveled dived by petrol pumped in is the best and easiest way. If you traveled 100km and pump 10L then 100/10=10km/l. Just make sure you reset your meter after each pump can already.

[Kevs]

Frankly I cannot think of any other method of calculating FC. If someone have better ways to calculate FC please share. By the way bro Kev the mileage taken is after you pump in petrol not the mileage when you hit reserve.

 

Er ya, thats what I meant.

Mileage clocked before hitting reserve..

 

Why so many sine cosine formula one? hee. Mileage traveled dived by petrol pumped in is the best and easiest way. If you traveled 100km and pump 10L then 100/10=10km/l. Just make sure you reset your meter after each pump can already.

 

Ok, so assuming using this formula[Mileage travelled(before reserve) / Petrol pumped], is this more accurate than what was quoted earlier from the manual?

 

200km(assume mileage clocked before reserve)/ 7.6L = 26.31KM/Litre..

 

I rephrase my qn as its 2 different thing here,

1) Mileage clocked(before reserve) / Petrol pumped

2) Mileage clocked(before reserve) / 7.6L(from the manual)

 

Which to use for better accurate calculation?

Pardon my blurness....

[louisiana]

Why so many sine cosine formula one? hee. Mileage traveled dived by petrol pumped in is the best and easiest way. If you traveled 100km and pump 10L then 100/10=10km/l. Just make sure you reset your meter after each pump can already.

 

Bro Kev this is what I meant.. So how do you calculate your FC all this while??

[madman]

kev ah... work too hard is it? hahaa...

 

just go pump full the next time, then take note ur mileage at that point (if it cant be reset). example 80,000

 

next time you go pump (whether reserve on or not), see how many litres you pump. Check the mileage when pumping (example 80,200), minus the mileage when u last pump (80,000). That means you travel 200km, then divide by the litres you jus pump.

[Penunggu]

actually bro ur mielage already good when i first bought my steed i can only get 150km before having to switch to reserve. so i went to my workshop ask them to adjust the amt of fuel going in so now i have less power especially pick up but i get better mileage. i have a question

does the steed suspension really suck ? coz recently i went to jb n hit a pothole then i heard a loud thud and sound of metal could be heard most probably the suspension already hit the max . is this a problem or is it like that ?

[louisiana]

actually bro ur mielage already good when i first bought my steed i can only get 150km before having to switch to reserve. so i went to my workshop ask them to adjust the amt of fuel going in so now i have less power especially pick up but i get better mileage. i have a question

does the steed suspension really suck ? coz recently i went to jb n hit a pothole then i heard a loud thud and sound of metal could be heard most probably the suspension already hit the max . is this a problem or is it like that ?

 

All bikes with a worn or weak shock absorbers will suffer this condition you mentioned. If you have a pillion and going over a hump sometime you can also feel the shock hit its max. But this depend on the total load and speed you going over the hump. Bro try check the shock absorber preload setting.

[plasticblackspecs]

 

Ok, so assuming using this formula[Mileage travelled(before reserve) / Petrol pumped], is this more accurate than what was quoted earlier from the manual?

 

 

Err...I never read the above post on how you guys calculate, but that's how i calculate. Usually do once or twice and the FC doesn't vary much. Then after next servcing then monitor again. I usually only do 2 types of calculation. One for how much mileage before I hit reserve and how much km per Llitre i can get. Then I can estimate how much mileage I have left when I hit reserves or do a mid-way pump. The 2 are as follows using my bike as an example.

 

My bike is a 9.5 + 3. From full tank, I'll ride till I hit reserve and take note of the mileage. Assuming (I can't remember) I travel 235km and hit reserves. My FC will be 235km / 9.5L = 24.736842105263157894736842105263 km/l. I then usually take 20km/L for FC and know i still have at least 60km of reserve before I run dry. So I'll have to find a petrol station within that 60km.

 

Assuming I hit 275km when I reach a petrol station (usually GP esso. hee) I pump and take note of how much petrol I've er, pumped. Again assuming I'll pumped (over used word here) 12L. Then I'll take 275km divided by 12L and my FC then is 22.916666666666666666666666666667 km/L

 

Which is about right for my bike. According to sources from internet and people and forums and experience. I should be getting average, dependning on riding style, situation and location, 19 - 24km/L.

 

A bit long winded but hope things are cleared now.

 

What does the manual say btw? *curious*

 

actually bro ur mielage already good when i first bought my steed i can only get 150km before having to switch to reserve. so i went to my workshop ask them to adjust the amt of fuel going in so now i have less power especially pick up but i get better mileage. i have a question

does the steed suspension really suck ? coz recently i went to jb n hit a pothole then i heard a loud thud and sound of metal could be heard most probably the suspension already hit the max . is this a problem or is it like that ?

 

It happens if you hit too much bumps. Like going over a (speed) bump fast. Your suspensions hit rock bottom. Happened to me a few times so now I control speed when going over bumpy area and keep a look out for sudden pot holes. I'm still not sure if it's the suspensions making the noise or the frame hitting the fender or wheel banging something though.

[Penunggu]

ok thanks guys

[Kevs]

Bro Kev this is what I meant.. So how do you calculate your FC all this while??

 

Take mileage clocked(inclusive of riding when reserve)/petrol pumped, then as I find it always inaccurate, I'll just take that when I reach 190km, I know I'll be hitting reserve soon & I seriously need to get to a petrol station asap...

 

kev ah... work too hard is it? hahaa...

 

just go pump full the next time, then take note ur mileage at that point (if it cant be reset). example 80,000

 

next time you go pump (whether reserve on or not), see how many litres you pump. Check the mileage when pumping (example 80,200), minus the mileage when u last pump (80,000). That means you travel 200km, then divide by the litres you jus pump.

 

Noted. Thnx...

 

actually bro ur mielage already good when i first bought my steed i can only get 150km before having to switch to reserve. so i went to my workshop ask them to adjust the amt of fuel going in so now i have less power especially pick up but i get better mileage. i have a question

does the steed suspension really suck ? coz recently i went to jb n hit a pothole then i heard a loud thud and sound of metal could be heard most probably the suspension already hit the max . is this a problem or is it like that ?

 

Err...I never read the above post on how you guys calculate, but that's how i calculate. Usually do once or twice and the FC doesn't vary much. Then after next servcing then monitor again. I usually only do 2 types of calculation. One for how much mileage before I hit reserve and how much km per Llitre i can get. Then I can estimate how much mileage I have left when I hit reserves or do a mid-way pump. The 2 are as follows using my bike as an example.

 

My bike is a 9.5 + 3. From full tank, I'll ride till I hit reserve and take note of the mileage. Assuming (I can't remember) I travel 235km and hit reserves. My FC will be 235km / 9.5L = 24.736842105263157894736842105263 km/l. I then usually take 20km/L for FC and know i still have at least 60km of reserve before I run dry. So I'll have to find a petrol station within that 60km.

 

Assuming I hit 275km when I reach a petrol station (usually GP esso. hee) I pump and take note of how much petrol I've er, pumped. Again assuming I'll pumped (over used word here) 12L. Then I'll take 275km divided by 12L and my FC then is 22.916666666666666666666666666667 km/L

 

Which is about right for my bike. According to sources from internet and people and forums and experience. I should be getting average, dependning on riding style, situation and location, 19 - 24km/L.

 

A bit long winded but hope things are cleared now.

 

What does the manual say btw? *curious*

 

 

 

It happens if you hit too much bumps. Like going over a (speed) bump fast. Your suspensions hit rock bottom. Happened to me a few times so now I control speed when going over bumpy area and keep a look out for sudden pot holes. I'm still not sure if it's the suspensions making the noise or the frame hitting the fender or wheel banging something though.

 

plasticblackspecs: Ok, noted.

 

Sincerely thanks all for clearing my picture of doubts...

 

Eh... Becareful of the spare coolant tank below, located near the rear sub-frame. My dad hit it once long long time ago, didnt replace, only patched it back. I got hit once when exiting from Mustafa's underground CP, stop aside immediately & luckily only the sub-frame got some scratches instead...

[louisiana]

Take mileage clocked(inclusive of riding when reserve)/petrol pumped' date=' then as I find it always inaccurate, I'll just take that when I reach 190km, I know I'll be hitting reserve soon & I seriously need to get to a petrol station asap...[/color']

 

Bro thats how madman,plasticblackspecs and me do our FC calculation. You cannot get 100% accurate all the time. Why? Its because maybe 50% stop go and 50% highway(less traffic, smooth flow). At times it can be 70% stop go and 30% highway. The most important for me is to know roughly when my bike going to hit reserve. Normally at about 5 to 10km before hitting reserve I already switch to reserve. I don't want to have a situation whereby while moving off after a traffic stop then at that moment the bike hit reserve.

[Penunggu]

i have got another question what 4t is best used for steed. is it true for old bikes like mine its better to use fully synthetic ?

[Kevs]

Bro thats how madman,plasticblackspecs and me do our FC calculation. You cannot get 100% accurate all the time. Why? Its because maybe 50% stop go and 50% highway(less traffic, smooth flow). At times it can be 70% stop go and 30% highway. The most important for me is to know roughly when my bike going to hit reserve. Normally at about 5 to 10km before hitting reserve I already switch to reserve. I don't want to have a situation whereby while moving off after a traffic stop then at that moment the bike hit reserve.

 

Understood.

Thnx.

[Penunggu]

i have got another question what 4t is best used for steed. is it true for old bikes like mine its better to use fully synthetic ?

 

anyone care to help me out on this ?

[plasticblackspecs]

anyone care to help me out on this ?

 

I dunno about the best 4T for steed or any bikes. I don't know much about 4T in the first place, I usually let my mechanic handle it. But I do know the type of 4T would depend on your riding style or rather your riding frequencies. Something about if you do more city riding use a certain EO and if more highway riding use another EO. Maybe I should start memorizing what I read and take more consideration what type of EO I'm using.

[Kevs]

i have got another question what 4t is best used for steed. is it true for old bikes like mine its better to use fully synthetic ?

 

anyone care to help me out on this ?

 

I dunno about the best 4T for steed or any bikes. I don't know much about 4T in the first place, I usually let my mechanic handle it. But I do know the type of 4T would depend on your riding style or rather your riding frequencies. Something about if you do more city riding use a certain EO and if more highway riding use another EO. Maybe I should start memorizing what I read and take more consideration what type of EO I'm using.

 

Im currently using Fuchs Silkolene Comp 4T Racing 15W-50(semi-syn) on my Steed, so far so good..

What I've hear frm the myth is that old bikes would be more suitable using semi-syn than full.

Not really believe in this thou, will switch to Pro 4 Plus 10W50 soon when/before I go on long distance riding...

[The_One]

What I've hear frm the myth is that old bikes would be more suitable using semi-syn than full.

Not really believe in this thou, will switch to Pro 4 Plus 10W50 soon when/before I go on long distance riding...

Believe it or not .. BELIEVE IT!!!! Fully synthetic oils are INDEED A VERY GOOD ENGINE OIL but is it good for your machine as well?

 

If yours is BRAND NEW, the moment after 1st oil change I would recommend putting synthetic oil all the way. But if yours is an old engine, the cleaning ‘detergent’ found in the synthetic will wipe clean all carbon or built up deposit etc on the crankshaft joints, all moving parts in the engine, at the gasket joints and even on the cylinder wall hairline groove, which was left behind by years of using the mineral. Those deposits are somehow ‘good’ for the engine of that state because of the cushioning effect. If your machine is brand new, such deposits were not there in the 1st place.

 

At the initial stage of using synthetic, you may experience false tuned-up effect and you may tap on your own shoulder of how ‘smart’ you are. Couple of month later you may notice lost of power, lost of compression, dragging engine, higher vibration, sign of engine leak & oil pressure drop (the red light flickering while idling). The logic is simple; there are thousands of metal to metal contacts in your engine. When each surface has been cleaned by the `detergent’, it will leave behind bigger tolerances. Multiply those by few thousand moving parts, you will know what I meant. The pressure & compression will drop due to the oil escape through the hairline groove in the cylinder wall, the valve & the valve seat.

I believe most reliable mechanic does not recommend putting fully synthetic engine oil, but they can’t find the right words to explain to the customers. What I am saying here is based on my past experience (ego) when ends up I need to do top-overhaul for my machine. However if I am engine-oil salesman, I might say otherwise

[Penunggu]

so its perhaps best to use semi twice then the 3rd time u change u use a fully syn oil what u guys think >?

[Kevs]

Believe it or not .. BELIEVE IT!!!! Fully synthetic oils are INDEED A VERY GOOD ENGINE OIL but is it good for your machine as well?

 

If yours is BRAND NEW, the moment after 1st oil change I would recommend putting synthetic oil all the way. But if yours is an old engine, the cleaning ‘detergent’ found in the synthetic will wipe clean all carbon or built up deposit etc on the crankshaft joints, all moving parts in the engine, at the gasket joints and even on the cylinder wall hairline groove, which was left behind by years of using the mineral. Those deposits are somehow ‘good’ for the engine of that state because of the cushioning effect. If your machine is brand new, such deposits were not there in the 1st place.

 

At the initial stage of using synthetic, you may experience false tuned-up effect and you may tap on your own shoulder of how ‘smart’ you are. Couple of month later you may notice lost of power, lost of compression, dragging engine, higher vibration, sign of engine leak & oil pressure drop (the red light flickering while idling). The logic is simple; there are thousands of metal to metal contacts in your engine. When each surface has been cleaned by the `detergent’, it will leave behind bigger tolerances. Multiply those by few thousand moving parts, you will know what I meant. The pressure & compression will drop due to the oil escape through the hairline groove in the cylinder wall, the valve & the valve seat.

I believe most reliable mechanic does not recommend putting fully synthetic engine oil, but they can’t find the right words to explain to the customers. What I am saying here is based on my past experience (ego) when ends up I need to do top-overhaul for my machine. However if I am engine-oil salesman, I might say otherwise

 

Woo~ Thnx for the infos. Guess I'll stick to semi-syn as its an old bike & engine...

[MR.ROBERT YU]

hi to all steed rider,

i used to burn up a full tank of petrol (9 ltr) and i manage to get about 180km b4 i hit the reserve tank, but recently i only hit 150km and i need to used the reserve already, i was wondering why the sudden change in the petrol comsumption? can any body kindly advise me regards to the sudden change. i used to EO AT 3000KM... THANKS

[dreamwalk]

your petrol kena stolen?

 

or carb leaking?