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What 4T best supported?  

429 members have voted

  1. 1. What 4T best supported?



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Posted
There is no such thing as too hi or too lo..the older the tyres get..the more it wears..the higher the kpi..otherwise its doing "rubber to road braking"..other words..drag instead of roll. There is an imprint stamed on the metal plate surface of ur sprocket..see if its 44 or 42..if its 45..you screwed and just live wif it for the time being.

 

Ah Pek, how come 45 screwed?

:angel:RIDE TO BE A GHOST RIDER:angel:
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Posted
Ah Pek, how come 45 screwed?

 

Over drive..you get gd pick up but low drag and under use of higher rpm..meaning no top speed..heavy engine braking and bad chain stretching. The inner gears in the gear box to the primary front drive gear is design at 15 tooth with good drive ratio for 44 tooth for vtec and 42 for non vtec.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

hmm... ahpek what if i use stock 15 front and 42 teeth for a vtec, whats going to happen huh? i know i would have a very lousy moving off for sure, but good top speed ah.

Thrash? Don't mind if i do.

 

http://userserve-ak.last.fm/serve/126/59442677.gif

Posted
hmm... ahpek what if i use stock 15 front and 42 teeth for a vtec, whats going to happen huh? i know i would have a very lousy moving off for sure, but good top speed ah.

 

Pick up still okay lah...but long drag to top speed very shiok_ker_ding! For regular uses..should have better FC.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

hmm guess that would be my next sprocket ratio... till now lets just wait for this supersprox to wear off. thanks ahpek!

Thrash? Don't mind if i do.

 

http://userserve-ak.last.fm/serve/126/59442677.gif

Posted

apek sms me at 92325153. my 1st hand revo coming out this friday. i wanna change engine oil with u. shop sure give those cheap ass engine oil. Haikal

11/07/2008 - Class 3

26/02/2009 - Class 2B

18/03/2009 - Yamaha TZM 150 ( FT 95**R )

04/08/2011 - Class 2A

19/08/2011 - Honda Cb400SF Revo ( FBF 5**J )

 

http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae186/thatguyhaikal/294889_306525876030156_100000182383201_1471277_682172925_n-1-2.jpg

Posted
apek sms me at 92325153. my 1st hand revo coming out this friday. i wanna change engine oil with u. shop sure give those cheap ass engine oil. Haikal

 

you need to run in first. instead of asking him to sms you. why don't you sms him instead? his number can be found in this thread.

When touring, its usually the rider that give way first before the bike itself.

 

got box got tour.

Posted
you need to run in first. instead of asking him to sms you. why don't you sms him instead? his number can be found in this thread.

 

ah thats why ah. shouldn't he contact ahpek and not the other way around? need to run in with the mineral oil, get everything in place then after run-in done can change to ahpek oil.

Thrash? Don't mind if i do.

 

http://userserve-ak.last.fm/serve/126/59442677.gif

Posted

Ah pek, what eo u use? Hoe much? We buy ourselves or buy from u?

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae167/m0hs3n_2009/pulsar200ns.jpg

 

"The fool doth think he is wise, but the wise man knows himself to be a fool."

Posted
ah thats why ah. shouldn't he contact ahpek and not the other way around? need to run in with the mineral oil, get everything in place then after run-in done can change to ahpek oil.

Yeah. No offence to anybody. But I think ah pek is just sharing what he finds good with all of us. In fact . Most of the time we ask/ look for him as a favour .

When touring, its usually the rider that give way first before the bike itself.

 

got box got tour.

Posted
ah thats why ah. shouldn't he contact ahpek and not the other way around? need to run in with the mineral oil, get everything in place then after run-in done can change to ahpek oil.

 

"..need to run in with the mineral oil"..not thrue lah bro..where do u read this from?...ha...x3! I oso have special eo catered for run in and fully sync oso.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Yeah. No offence to anybody. But I think ah pek is just sharing what he finds good with all of us. In fact . Most of the time we ask/ look for him as a favour .

 

Thanks bro..and that's right..I'm not into business..just sharing. For those interested can always pm and I can get the stuff prepared.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
"..need to run in with the mineral oil"..not thrue lah bro..where do u read this from?...ha...x3! I oso have special eo catered for run in and fully sync oso.

 

Really ar? Well in all my new bikes in run in with mineral oil once done with the sayang2 slow and steady riding then i go fully sync

Thrash? Don't mind if i do.

 

http://userserve-ak.last.fm/serve/126/59442677.gif

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
Yeah. No offence to anybody. But I think ah pek is just sharing what he finds good with all of us. In fact . Most of the time we ask/ look for him as a favour .

 

Just change to Roadmaster car EO 15w-40 for my suzuki impulse 400.

So far so good, find it smoother and running cooler.

No clutch slippage either and feel good.

Just curious, when I fill in the new car EO, the EO is dark brown in color with some bubbles, resembling the Ah pek EO I tried before which was quite good too. Any motorcycle EO in dark brown color for e.g.?

Edited by byte77
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I am thinkin of maxima premium 4 which is 20v50... wat advantage does it have as compared to maxima extra 15v50.....because both base is different....so any peeps out here who tried it please do give some review:)

:angel:RIDE TO BE A GHOST RIDER:angel:
Posted
Just change to Roadmaster car EO 15w-40 for my suzuki impulse 400.

So far so good, find it smoother and running cooler.

No clutch slippage either and feel good.

Just curious, when I fill in the new car EO, the EO is dark brown in color with some bubbles, resembling the Ah pek EO I tried before which was quite good too. Any motorcycle EO in dark brown color for e.g.?

 

tot car eo is meant for dry crutch?

Bikes are generally wet crutch... Any long term effects???

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hey guys. i just upgraded from a 2-stroke bike to a S4. And my bike's former owner was also using Ah Pek's EO. So my S4 is running on his EO now. That may be one of the reasons the engine is so smooth.

 

On a separate note, id like to ask something. pls forgive me im q noob. I used to change EO on my 2 stroke every month. How do i know when i should change EO for my S4 (not thinking of any EO in particular). Should i wait for the ride to become 'rough' till i change, or is there a better way? Cos some in this thread have suggested 10k, 20k and some even 30k. And im q sure diff EO will have diff lifespans, so called. any advice will be appreciated, thanks!

Most motorcycle problems are a result of the nut that connects the handlebar to the saddle

 

:thumb:

Posted
Hey guys. i just upgraded from a 2-stroke bike to a S4. And my bike's former owner was also using Ah Pek's EO. So my S4 is running on his EO now. That may be one of the reasons the engine is so smooth.

 

On a separate note, id like to ask something. pls forgive me im q noob. I used to change EO on my 2 stroke every month. How do i know when i should change EO for my S4 (not thinking of any EO in particular). Should i wait for the ride to become 'rough' till i change, or is there a better way? Cos some in this thread have suggested 10k, 20k and some even 30k. And im q sure diff EO will have diff lifespans, so called. any advice will be appreciated, thanks!

 

Looks like no one advise u on using eo on a 2 stroke bikes..u should be using gear box oil as in SAE grade 80/90 at that time and u change only 6 months once as a reference point depending on riding style. 2 strokes engine do not use the regular eo that 4 strokes use as the eo does not need to lube the cyclinder wall but using 2T mixed with fuel instead.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Need some opinion regarding Engine Oil.

Who feels that ur bike only suitable for certain/selected brand of engine oil?

As in u tried other brands engine oil although is the same viscosity and grade, u will find ur ride is rougher and drop in performance.

Do share the worst Engine oil u ever experience with.

Do share around! thx

:cheer:

Glad to have u in my life : ) Always love one another!

Posted
Looks like no one advise u on using eo on a 2 stroke bikes..u should be using gear box oil as in SAE grade 80/90 at that time and u change only 6 months once as a reference point depending on riding style. 2 strokes engine do not use the regular eo that 4 strokes use as the eo does not need to lube the cyclinder wall but using 2T mixed with fuel instead.

 

Thanks very much Ah Pek. Yup i topped up 2T without fail, but i must have been mistaken in my understanding of EO. But more importantly, can I ask how I can maintain my engine properly with regards to EO now, with my current Spec II? How often should I change EO, and im guessing what EO i use matters in how frequent i have to change it as well.

Most motorcycle problems are a result of the nut that connects the handlebar to the saddle

 

:thumb:

Posted
Thanks very much Ah Pek. Yup i topped up 2T without fail, but i must have been mistaken in my understanding of EO. But more importantly, can I ask how I can maintain my engine properly with regards to EO now, with my current Spec II? How often should I change EO, and im guessing what EO i use matters in how frequent i have to change it as well.

 

Yes...4 strokes bike engine oil is different from those use in 2 strokes 'eo' oso know as gearbox oil especially in the grading. As for ur Spec II and due to its age beside being a hi-rev bike...grade eo as in their "W" is recommended. Beside the grade..the eo must have great "lubibg" and protection properties..and u are right that not just any eo or the most expensive will do.

 

As for change interval..it depends on type of eo use like fully sync or mineral. Of cost fully sync is the best but then again..what is added into it as a blend makes all the difference in cost for its protection and overall performance lube performance. All riders varies thus riding style varies...just know that continous riding in long distances heats up the eo and for a longer time makes the oil performance deteriorate faster and becomes less reliable..like making long trips to up countries at higher speed and more continous distance rather than start/stop riding. If u play track often too..do change sooner than usual road uses. As to when to change..u have to have body english with ur ride..when it feels rough as of feelingsthat metal is 'grinding' in a box of water..that's about time to change...same for spark plugs. There is no fix as whichever comes first in period or time or number of clicks..its how the oil or spark plugs are used..what stated in the manual is just a guide base on routine general day to day uses.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hey, thanks a lot. I didnt realise there were so many factors that affected just engine oil. I shall try to 'feel' my way around the bike. I thought it was supposed to be changed periodically. THanks again, for taking the time to reply, its very thorough.

 

Yes...4 strokes bike engine oil is different from those use in 2 strokes 'eo' oso know as gearbox oil especially in the grading. As for ur Spec II and due to its age beside being a hi-rev bike...grade eo as in their "W" is recommended. Beside the grade..the eo must have great "lubibg" and protection properties..and u are right that not just any eo or the most expensive will do.

 

As for change interval..it depends on type of eo use like fully sync or mineral. Of cost fully sync is the best but then again..what is added into it as a blend makes all the difference in cost for its protection and overall performance lube performance. All riders varies thus riding style varies...just know that continous riding in long distances heats up the eo and for a longer time makes the oil performance deteriorate faster and becomes less reliable..like making long trips to up countries at higher speed and more continous distance rather than start/stop riding. If u play track often too..do change sooner than usual road uses. As to when to change..u have to have body english with ur ride..when it feels rough as of feelingsthat metal is 'grinding' in a box of water..that's about time to change...same for spark plugs. There is no fix as whichever comes first in period or time or number of clicks..its how the oil or spark plugs are used..what stated in the manual is just a guide base on routine general day to day uses.

Most motorcycle problems are a result of the nut that connects the handlebar to the saddle

 

:thumb:

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