[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[irahc78]

Guys

 

In KL now. All the way to KL i had this indication on my console. I was scared like hell, wanted to check if I should be worried.. Is it low engine oil or is what?

 

[mjbs64]

Guys

 

In KL now. All the way to KL i had this indication on my console. I was scared like hell, wanted to check if I should be worried.. Is it low engine oil or is what?

 

 

 

That was your high engine temperature icon .... the sensor unit is located near the oil cool radiator on the left side of the bike.

 

Light flash meaning your engine temperature is too hot .... or ... like said the sensor is too sensitive at times it will just flash for no reason.

 

1: cool down the bike for a while and observe later when you ride.

2: check your EO level .. do top up if it's too low shown on the glass window on the right side of the bike at main stand.

3: check your AFR ... maybe too lean or too hot shown on the plug !! ... open the spark plug to see the condition ... adjust the AFR on the carb ...

4: clean your oil cool radiator mesh from dirt or sand that stuck on the mesh

 

once you ride off if the icon still flashing .. just observe and feel the heat on your leg area .. if you feel too hot and not as usual .. do stop and cool it down again and check you AFR again ...

but if the heat felt like normal or not too hot .. then don't bother just ride and focus on the road while keep observing the situation ... Ride safe bro and back in one piece! ..cheers!

Edited April 22, 2011 by mjbs64

[alvinyansg]

Nice! Don't see any vibration!

 

1) Tank Camera Mount

2) GE waterproof camera + 32Gb SD

3) Continuous charging and recording

 

Very Nice!

 

How did you solve the video files issue? Were you able to analyse what actually cause it?

 

yupz...

its the card...

kana conned...

[alvinyansg]

btw alvin .. in the vid, i can hear your rear brake sound .. have you install the new brake shoe from dickson rd? ....

 

haha...

nope...

the famous pulsar squeek...

haha...

[ORen]

Speaking of brakes, my rear brakes have now been on the bike for a few weeks. They don't make a squeek (yet?) and they are performing really well. To me, they are better than the stock ones, but not like completely revolutionary compared to the stock ones. Slightly better.

For those who experienced the feeling after installing the Sinnob sprocket, you know how you instantly felt the difference from the stock sprocket ? Well, for me here it's the same, I just can tell it's different. It's not changing the fact that rear drum brakes are not reliable, but at least I feel the biting is a bit more efficient.

 

And also, thanks to Ah-Teck-No-Good, I have resolved the issue of the "kling-kling sound on my headlight assembly: He added a bracket to the the X-Vision lights to maintain them tighter and closer to the plate holder. So they are not moving anymore and they are very sturdily fixed. Simple and ingenious at the same time, I don;t have to worry about where to fix the lights

[ORen]

A small plastic part of my Rizoma grip on the side that goes into the throttle box on the handle bar, broke.

It's a small "tooth" that grabs the throttle "pin" inside the throttle box. There are two of these plastic tooth that form a half disk that collars the throttle pin in the throttle box.

 

I was told it was probably due to the throttle being turned against its normal rotation , meaning like when you close your throttle, but above the closing point.

 

It might be someone who played with it in the carpark, or it might be me. Maybe when I close my throttle to slow down, I put too much weight on my hands and arms, since I usually tend to tighten my grip when I slow down, especially when I ride with a pillion. Or maybe when I was parking i didn't realize I was pushing the throttle backwards ? The mech suggested it could be that. After repeated behaviors like this, the plastic cracked. it really doesn't look solid at all and I'm very disappointed with the quality - You'd think such an important of the grip would have a better resistance. Especially at the price these grips cost.. !

 

Anyway, here's some pics to show you what I'm talking about : (you can see in the second picture where the tooth was broken off and the one still there)

 

 

I'll go back to unique Motors to see if they have the spare part, but I'm not very hopeful . I'll look it up online too.

Any other idea where I could find a new plastic collar, the black one ? Maybe a bike shop changed damaged Rizoma grips and they have the part they can't use ?

 

I can still ride with only one "tooth" holding the throttle "pin", but I don't think it's very safe..

Edited April 22, 2011 by O'Ren

[ORen]

I took the opportunity of my servicing to ask UM to open the small sprocket case and check if it needed cleaning.

You can see in the picture below the findings... Look at the black thick "paste" residue.. I realized that maybe I use too much oil (I use gel oil) and that this type of oil makes it easier for dirt to be stuck and aggregate there. What do you guys think ?

 

 

This is the dirt accumulated over 7.5k km. I've never cleaned it before. I'll bring the bike back next week to have my chain removed and cleaned

 

(I also learned how to open the case, and clean the area, and put back the case and how to tighten the gear lever, so if anyone wants more info on that I'll be happy to share the knowledge that was shared with me )

Edited April 22, 2011 by O'Ren

[ORen]

Another testimonial about protective gear :

"Recently I just kissed the tarmac, luckily it was a low speed corner so just escape with only minor injuries which is only the skins. Luckily I was wearing jeans and safety shoes, so only my right knee cap tio a little bit. But as for hands.. how I wished I had gloves with me.

As for helmet, I always like FF but riding as kup.. feels damn funny image for kup and FF Helmet.. But considering safety, I might just go for it.

I never like to wear gloves but looks like it will be better to have one when there is the next fall, then next would be riding jacket.

Lesson learned. "

 

Please consider getting gloves, for $60 you can get a very decent pair, and it's a great investment. I have 1yr old gloves that look like new. I wear them every single ride, rain or shine, 10min or 2h rides.

There are often slaes in bike shops for gloves, you can't say it's too expensive and you can't afford them. And that will improve your control of the bike, as well as reduce a bit the vibrations and numbness on long trips.

 

->>>> Think about it !! :thumb::thumb::thumb:

[ORen]

@O'Ren

 

if you need to clean the fuel cork strainer no need to flush out the who fuel unless if you wanna to remove the whole fuel cork unit .. then need to pour out the fuel and empty the tank first.

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201524&d=1303456051

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201525&d=1303456075

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201526&d=1303456089

 

Thanks for the images !

What to you call "strainer" ? Is that what Spai called the filter ? Is that the round piece with a hole in the middle, in the last picture ? Or is it the white cap at the bottom , the one unscrewed in the first picture ?

I have to Google "high point flash solvent - have no idea what that is...some kind of alcohol

[haktek]

I took the opportunity of my servicing to ask UM to open the small sprocket case and check if it needed cleaning.

You can see in the picture below the findings... Look at the black thick "paste" residue.. I realized that maybe I use too much oil (I use gel oil) and that this type of oil makes it easier for dirt to be stuck and aggregate there. What do you guys think ?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]201559[/ATTACH]

 

This is the dirt accumulated over 7.5k km. I've never cleaned it before. I'll bring the bike back next week to have my chain removed and cleaned

 

(I also learned how to open the case, and clean the area, and put back the case and how to tighten the gear lever, so if anyone wants more info on that I'll be happy to share the knowledge that was shared with me )

 

Try to get engine degreaser spray (spray and wash) and chain lube oil (oil base)... I doing that every time i degrease my bike... Get pz1 chain lube... Its the best i used so far...

[glzco]

Thanks for the images !

What to you call "strainer" ? Is that what Spai called the filter ? Is that the round piece with a hole in the middle, in the last picture ? Or is it the white cap at the bottom , the one unscrewed in the first picture ?

I have to Google "high point flash solvent - have no idea what that is...some kind of alcohol

 

i tink the strainger is the round piece with a hole in the middle.. but probably it has some sort of filter to stop contaminants from going into the fuel line.. in any case, high flash point solvent is some sort of alcohol.. like very flammable stuff.. petrol? kerosene? smtin like that i would say..

[mjbs64]

Thanks for the images !

What to you call "strainer" ? Is that what Spai called the filter ? Is that the round piece with a hole in the middle, in the last picture ? Or is it the white cap at the bottom , the one unscrewed in the first picture ?

I have to Google "high point flash solvent - have no idea what that is...some kind of alcohol

 

i tink the strainger is the round piece with a hole in the middle.. but probably it has some sort of filter to stop contaminants from going into the fuel line.. in any case, high flash point solvent is some sort of alcohol.. like very flammable stuff.. petrol? kerosene? smtin like that i would say..

 

strainer or filter for this basically the same .. objective is to trap dirt or foreign particles from the tank to the carb....

 

high flash solvent .. found this on googgle

 

"Gas and kerosene are low-flash-point solvents. Gas is a very-low-flash-point solvent.

 

A high flash point solvent is one which has a flash point above 140'F. Gas has a flash point of around -40F. Kerosene is around 110F. Diesel is 120-150F. It changes from fuel to fuel. I think most halogenated solvents (carb/engine/brake cleaners) have high flash points. There are also a number of silicon (I think) based solvents that are non-flammable .... "

 

here from 3M .. for cleaning purpose ...

 

http://solutions.3mindia.co.in/wps/portal/3M/en_IN/3MCarCare/3MCarCare/Products/Maintenance/Cleaners/

 

hmmmm seriuosly for me I just rinse the strainer with the fuel from the tank and dry it clean before putting it back to the whole unit. And seriously .. you need to maintain it cos after a long period it can get rusty and the whole thing spoilt for nothing ..... just asked mr zhua cos he too learnt the hard way kekekkekeee

 

just my share here .... individual's vary though .... cheers!

[mjbs64]

From NGK webbie .. for your reference to know what good or what bad and why ....

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201570&d=1303480492

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201574&d=1303481167

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201575&d=1303481191

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201576&d=1303481209

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=201577&d=1303481235

 

 

I always put a copy in my box for reference when ever I check my plug cos I'm not an expert but just like to learn and understand .... hehehehe

 

 

just my share ....

[alvinyansg]

Update/Feedback on Protec Carspeed Coil

 

 

after solving the problem of "dancing",high,stuck rpm with the help of bro Valkyrie form prieds online

tested it over the week everything is good:thumb:

i did not try the top speed...

some info for those who are interested to install carspeed coil

 

1) the mounting hole for the carspeed coil is smaller than the bolt that is used to hold the stock coils. have to get slightly smaller ones to mount the carspeed coil

 

2) have to do some re-wiring, our stock set up is tachometer -> coil -> CDI...have to re-wire to tachometer -> pulser coil...there is a wire leading to the pulser coil in the CDI which is the w/r wire in the electrical diagram. can look for ah-teck-no-good...he knows how to re-wire.

 

3) with the carspeed coil installed, you will lose some lower end power and torque(especially for those with ultimate V3 installed on both sides), but will feel more power and bike more responsive at higher end.

Edited April 22, 2011 by alvinyansg

[ORen]

strainer or filter for this basically the same .. objective is to trap dirt or foreign particles from the tank to the carb....

 

Sorry I'm slow(er) tonight.. so the strainer is the little piece with a hole in the middle ?

If I don't remove the screws , and just unscrew the bottom part below the fuel lever, I should be able to access the filter right ?

I'm very curious now to see how mine looks like:smile:

 

Btw I won't be around tmr and Sunday, going to Melaka with family. Back on Sunday, have a nice WE everyone !

[Brandonwang]

:):):)

[irahc78]

That was your high engine temperature icon .... the sensor unit is located near the oil cool radiator on the left side of the bike.

 

Light flash meaning your engine temperature is too hot .... or ... like said the sensor is too sensitive at times it will just flash for no reason.

 

1: cool down the bike for a while and observe later when you ride.

2: check your EO level .. do top up if it's too low shown on the glass window on the right side of the bike at main stand.

3: check your AFR ... maybe too lean or too hot shown on the plug !! ... open the spark plug to see the condition ... adjust the AFR on the carb ...

4: clean your oil cool radiator mesh from dirt or sand that stuck on the mesh

 

once you ride off if the icon still flashing .. just observe and feel the heat on your leg area .. if you feel too hot and not as usual .. do stop and cool it down again and check you AFR again ...

but if the heat felt like normal or not too hot .. then don't bother just ride and focus on the road while keep observing the situation ... Ride safe bro and back in one piece! ..cheers!

 

Thanks Bro, Even without the sensor flashing, i can feel that the engine temperature is higher than normal. Can feel the heat on the legs. Do you think its a OK to change engine oil anyway? How to change the AFR lah?

 

While I was riding on the expressway my bulb is fused off and the high beam was focussed towards the moon... Managed to ride this way about 200 km... Damn scary, but without these issues, it would have been just a boring ride.. now its an experience to remember. See you soon back home.

 

I am going to let the bike rest for 3 days before I try again.

[revhappy]

I took the opportunity of my servicing to ask UM to open the small sprocket case and check if it needed cleaning.

You can see in the picture below the findings... Look at the black thick "paste" residue.. I realized that maybe I use too much oil (I use gel oil) and that this type of oil makes it easier for dirt to be stuck and aggregate there. What do you guys think ?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]201559[/ATTACH]

 

This is the dirt accumulated over 7.5k km. I've never cleaned it before. I'll bring the bike back next week to have my chain removed and cleaned

 

(I also learned how to open the case, and clean the area, and put back the case and how to tighten the gear lever, so if anyone wants more info on that I'll be happy to share the knowledge that was shared with me )

 

Its looks quite good. Its nicely accumulated at the bottom of the cover in a hard paste form, since you use high quality lube. In my bike's case, it was more gooey and it was all over the place, thats because I used go to bike shops and ask them to lube it using used EO

 

BTW, opening that front sprocket cover must be childs play for you considering you have opened the tank and played with the electricals, hehehe

[revhappy]

Thanks Bro, Even without the sensor flashing, i can feel that the engine temperature is higher than normal. Can feel the heat on the legs. Do you think its a OK to change engine oil anyway? How to change the AFR lah?

 

While I was riding on the expressway my bulb is fused off and the high beam was focussed towards the moon... Managed to ride this way about 200 km... Damn scary, but without these issues, it would have been just a boring ride.. now its an experience to remember. See you soon back home.

 

I am going to let the bike rest for 3 days before I try again.

 

Did you check the EO level, before the start of the journey? Also check the EO level now. If it is low then you have your answer. If level is fine then check the AFR. MJ bro has already posted about it several pages back. Basically its a screw on the carb that can be turned clockwise or anticlockwise. (cant remember which direction is rich and which is lean). But every 1/4 turn will have an impact so move it completely to the one side and then keep turning 1/4 turn and test ride untill you are satisfied.

[glzco]

@Brandonwang eh.. time to shoot the singapore pulsarians.. any time to spare for us anot? dun keep smiling la.. you do one shoot for us good time.. we treat you kopi and prata and murtabak one time good time.. lol.. but seriously, do us a favour and shoot us with your skills! but we are not marrying each other so dun add hearts and love forever to the pictures when you edit them like you do with your job.. hahha..

[alvinyansg]

Thanks Bro, Even without the sensor flashing, i can feel that the engine temperature is higher than normal. Can feel the heat on the legs. Do you think its a OK to change engine oil anyway? How to change the AFR lah?

 

While I was riding on the expressway my bulb is fused off and the high beam was focussed towards the moon... Managed to ride this way about 200 km... Damn scary, but without these issues, it would have been just a boring ride.. now its an experience to remember. See you soon back home.

 

I am going to let the bike rest for 3 days before I try again.

 

you can adjust the angle of your beam throw

put your bike on main stand and turn the head cowling towards the left

use your hand to push aside some of the wiring and you can see a big - screw inside

use a big screw driver to turn the screw

do this with your engine running so you can see the height of the beam

[spaiduhz]

I took the opportunity of my servicing to ask UM to open the small sprocket case and check if it needed cleaning.

You can see in the picture below the findings... Look at the black thick "paste" residue.. I realized that maybe I use too much oil (I use gel oil) and that this type of oil makes it easier for dirt to be stuck and aggregate there. What do you guys think ?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]201559[/ATTACH]

 

This is the dirt accumulated over 7.5k km. I've never cleaned it before. I'll bring the bike back next week to have my chain removed and cleaned

 

(I also learned how to open the case, and clean the area, and put back the case and how to tighten the gear lever, so if anyone wants more info on that I'll be happy to share the knowledge that was shared with me )

 

I would be more concerned about the rust on your chain rather than the dirt inside the sprocket guard.

 

That said ,its been over a year since i had any reason to open up the sprocket cover. Maybe i should take the opportunity to take apart my bottom chain guards to clean up all that accumulated gunk, and the sprocket cover as well.

[glzco]

@alvinyansg looks like we need to custom make a tank mount for our camera! heh.. anyone works in a workshop here? *hint hint*

[spaiduhz]

Sorry I'm slow(er) tonight.. so the strainer is the little piece with a hole in the middle ?

If I don't remove the screws , and just unscrew the bottom part below the fuel lever, I should be able to access the filter right ?

I'm very curious now to see how mine looks like:smile:

 

Btw I won't be around tmr and Sunday, going to Melaka with family. Back on Sunday, have a nice WE everyone !

 

You are correct. Just remember to turn the fuel cock into the off position before meddling with the white cylinder.

 

You can use a spanner to release the cylinder if it isnt rounded like mine.

 

Remember to reinstall the filter and the washer in the right order! If the filter is damaged due to incorrect installation, you will have to purchase an entire fuel cock assembly!!! Filter will have gaps, and nasty stuff will get into your carbs!

[arthur_chan]

Update on Tank Camera Mount

 

attached is a video compilation of the tank camera mount on my P180 UG3

don't really like the position of the cam cause the vids can't see much as compared to mounted on handlebar

some more things to note

my cam the lens is at the top(vertical) hence still can see the front and road

those using normal camera or video cam(normal ones) or those normal digital still cams(horizontal)

might not be able to see anything at all

 

Next up will be update/feedback on protec carspeed coil

will post after i come home tonight...

 

 

 

riding in the void deck, forwarded to town council, kekekeke