[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[Seif]

oh yeh i wanna ask this.. how to remove the tank? I know there is a bolt once u remove the seat,

how about other screws/bolts? and the fuel tube?

[Seif]

oh yeh i wanna ask this.. how to remove the tank? I know there is a bolt once u remove the seat,

how about other screws/bolts? and the fuel tube?

[Seif]

anyway will be free from 1pm-6pm on mon(on course in the morning)

so if need help can help

 

sure :thumb:

[robbedzombie]

oh yeh i wanna ask this.. how to remove the tank? I know there is a bolt once u remove the seat,

how about other screws/bolts? and the fuel tube?

 

i think the fuel tube then got 1 more tube and sensor i think...maybe wrong

[alvinyansg]

oh yeh i wanna ask this.. how to remove the tank? I know there is a bolt once u remove the seat,

how about other screws/bolts? and the fuel tube?

 

i think the fuel tube then got 1 more tube and sensor i think...maybe wrong

 

after removing the bolt

you need to disconnect the fuel sensor connector(green colour under your tank)

off your fuel lever and remove the fuel line from the fuel lever

some have the overflow tube some don't have(this is more important when you put back the tank)

[mjbs64]

if not will gladly join the DIY session

 

my suggest during the diy session ... just listen and follow his (alvin) or her (oren) explanations rather than to see the wiring and connectors from both of their ride and I'm serious .. DON'T SEE THEIR WIRING UNDER THEIR SEAT!! .... kakakakakkaka

[alvinyansg]

my suggest during the diy session ... just listen and follow his (alvin) or her (oren) explanations rather than to see the wiring and connectors from both of their ride and I'm serious .. DON'T SEE THEIR WIRING UNDER THEIR SEAT!! .... kakakakakkaka

 

haha

more like mine wiring

@YenYu can tell you what he saw :cheeky:

o'ren's one is neat but need to trace...

[alvinyansg]

be careful of where you park

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzcosjx5DbY&feature=related

[StrongBow]

Is universal motors the only place in sg that sells new pulsar180?

[alvinyansg]

Is universal motors the only place in sg that sells new pulsar180?

 

there are other shops that sell new pulsars also like hkl(not bad also)...

but they still get their stocks from UM...

UM is transperant on their pricing and the all the charges...

no worries...look for chris when you head down...

[Ah_Pet]

Ack.. kena traffic warning from LTA.

Offence: Fitting additional rear lamps without ROV's permission

 

@alvinyansg @Nemesis : our mazda lookalike blinking rear lights we installed in JB cannot leh.. sad..

 

it;s me la..

it;s those triangle blinking light used in mazda rx8 wan

 

anyway is there any Fines or need to go for inspection?

[YenYu]

haha

more like mine wiring

@YenYu can tell you what he saw :cheeky:

o'ren's one is neat but need to trace...

 

Didnt manage to saw o'ren one... but alvin's one was like a spidy web!!!! Super messy! i bet only u know it urself LOL... If i were a mech doing for ur wiring, i'll ask you go other shop do please... lol!!!

[arthur_chan]

it;s me la..

it;s those triangle blinking light used in mazda rx8 wan

 

anyway is there any Fines or need to go for inspection?

 

its a risk to have addon lights on the road.

for inspection, it's compulsory it's not on when u go in, either by switch or dc.

[arthur_chan]

Didnt manage to saw o'ren one... but alvin's one was like a spidy web!!!! Super messy! i bet only u know it urself LOL... If i were a mech doing for ur wiring, i'll ask you go other shop do please... lol!!!

 

the no good um ah tek said that. kekeke

[breadman]

it;s me la..

it;s those triangle blinking light used in mazda rx8 wan

 

anyway is there any Fines or need to go for inspection?

 

no fine. they just say warning and MAY fine on repeated offence

[alvinyansg]

@mjbs64: uncle mj, i think i found the mic on the GE cam...i am guessing its the top small holes...i paste a piece of sticker foam at the lower holes and the sound is stil there...did a small experiment and seems the mic is the top small holes...will try out with the foam there...

[mfk74]

hmm

the famous LAB pricing

some got it for $6 some got it for $7 some $5

 

@dejaxx: all the stuff can get from sim lim tower except the signal relay from LAB

 

I have unused electrical 12V dc relay ..Wondering wheter it can be use or not

[revhappy]

Can we have a DIY spray the exhaust session?

 

Mine is super rusty.

[alvinyansg]

I have unused electrical 12V dc relay ..Wondering wheter it can be use or not

 

you need a flashing/signal relay for the hazard lights

[ORen]

@dejaxx: to remove the tank:

 

0. TURN OFF YOUR FUEL TANK LEVER and remove the fuel line. (Pull hard, don't worry it won't break - you can loosen the ring with pliers)

1. Remove pillion seat

2. Remove rider's seat

3. Unbolt and keep the screw that fixes the tank to the bike's frame. Don't worry if it's tight, it's supposed to be. If I'm not mistaken, it's a 12 size bolt.

4. Lift your tank from there carefully but apply some force to get it to lift up. The head of the thank will stay attached to the bike's frame, but the tail can be lifted a good degree.

5. If you squat on the right side of the bike (throttle side), you might be able then to see the green connector cable. If not lift a bit more the tank. (On some bikes, depending how the tank was put back, you can see the green connector without lifting the tank)

6. Squeeze in a hand under the lifted tank and disconnect the green connector - it's a simple connector that you unclip. It's roughly located on top of the carburator.

7. It's best if you can to have someone else to help : they can keep the tank lifted while you look for and disconnect the cable. It's doable by yourself, just be patient

8. After that, reach deeper with your hand under the tank. You'll feel the drain line: it's a black latex tube fixed to the tank with a spring. Hold it steady and push it down to free it from the tank. Don't hesitate to pull a bit hard if you need to, but try to keep your hand steady: there might be some fuel still in the tube.

9. Try to squeeze the now free drain tube somewhere near the bike frame to not have it drip, or just leave it (not a big deal if it drips a few drops!)

10. Your tank is now free of any ties. Hold it with both hands close to the front. The tank is "clipped" to the front sides to the bike frame by enclosing a round plastic head thingy. So you have to lift it up a bit slanted, tail up, head down, and pull up. Play with it, to try and free it from the bike's frame. It's easy to do, don't worry, even if the fuel inside travels and makes the tank feel like it's swaying, if you hold it with both hands you can't drop it. Play with it while pulling up and you'll free it.

11. Put it down on the ground. I usually try to rest it on something, especially if it's more than half full: otherwise the tank rests on it's lever/cock and I'm not sure how much it can take. So once it's down on the floor, you'll see that if you squeeze a screw driver or something under the tank "wings" , you'll be able to have it sit nicely on it's tail instead of the lever.

 

Any wires you will run on the bike from the head to the tail, run them following the bike frame and the existing wires. Try as much as possible to run the wires "inside" the bike, i.e not exposed on the side. They'll be better protected. Once your wires are done and everything tested, cable tie them to existing wires and/or bike frame. Again this will hold them in place and avoid any damage happening to them. If in the future you need to change/replace them, you can just cut the cable ties.

Avoid using electrical tape to fix the wires to the frame: with the heat and humidity it will become all gooey and sticky - horrible stuff.

 

And something I learned with experience: make quality connections. You can just twist cables and put some electrical tape on them, but you'll thank yourself if one day you have to change lights or anything, if your connections are clean and done with proper connectors. Plus it ensures a long lasting insulation as well. Sim Lim and Autobacs sell all sorts of cool connectors, allowing to tap into wires and connecting them in a nice, hassle free way.

 

Last tip I find useful: take pictures with your phone or whatever of the set up before you start working and at each step: it will be a great way to remember where the bolts go, where the wires go etc etc if you change anything and want to go back or "close" the bike.

 

Enjoy your DIY project !

Edited May 14, 2011 by O'Ren

[ORen]

the no good um ah tek said that. kekeke

 

Yeah Ah Teck doesn't like my wires because I cable tie them and they are super neatly packed so when he has to do any wiring on my bike it's a pain

But he's always very patient with it:clap:

[alvinyansg]

@dejaxx: to remove the tank:

 

0. TURN OFF YOUR FUEL TANK LEVER

1. Remove pillion seat

2. Remove rider's seat

3. Unbolt and keep the screw that fixes the tank to the bike's frame. Don't worry if it's tight, it's supposed to be. If I'm not mistaken, it's a 12 size bolt.

4. Lift your tank from there carefully but apply some force to get it to lift up. The head of the thank will stay attached to the bike's frame, but the tail can be lifted a good degree.

5. If you squat on the right side of the bike (throttle side), you might be able then to see the green connector cable. If not lift a bit more the tank. (On some bikes, depending how the tank was put back, you can see the green connector without lifting the tank)

6. Squeeze in a hand under the lifted tank and disconnect the green connector - it's a simple connector that you unclip. It's roughly located on top of the carburator.

7. It's best if you can to have someone else to help : they can keep the tank lifted while you look for and disconnect the cable. It's doable by yourself, just be patient

8. After that, reach deeper with your hand under the tank. You'll feel the fuel line: it's a black latex tube fixed to the tank with a spring. Hold it steady and push it down to free it from the tank. Don't hesitate to pull a bit hard if you need to, but try to keep your hand steady: there might be some fuel still in the tube.

9. Try to squeeze the now free fuel tube somewhere near the bike frame to not have it drip, or just leave it (not a big deal if it drips a few drops!)

10. Your tank is now free of any ties. Hold it with both hands close to the front. The tank is "clipped" to the front sides to the bike frame by enclosing a round plastic head thingy. So you have to lift it up a bit slanted, tail up, head down, and pull up. Play with it, to try and free it from the bike's frame. It's easy to do, don't worry, even if the fuel inside travels and makes the tank feel like it's swaying, if you hold it with both hands you can't drop it. Play with it while pulling up and you'll free it.

11. Put it down on the ground. I usually try to rest it on something, especially if it's more than half full: otherwise the tank rests on it's lever/cock and I'm not sure how much it can take. So once it's down on the floor, you'll see that if you squeeze a screw driver or something under the tank "wings" , you'll be able to have it sit nicely on it's tail instead of the lever.

 

Any wires you will run on the bike from the head to the tail, run them following the bike frame and the existing wires. Try as much as possible to run the wires "inside" the bike, i.e not exposed on the side. They'll be better protected. Once your wires are done and everything tested, cable tie them to existing wires and/or bike frame. Again this will hold them in place and avoid any damage happening to them. If in the future you need to change/replace them, you can just cut the cable ties.

Avoid using electrical tape to fix the wires to the frame: with the heat and humidity it will become all gooey and sticky - horrible stuff.

 

And something I learned with experience: make quality connections. You can just twist cables and put some electrical tape on them, but you'll thank yourself if one day you have to change lights or anything, if your connections are clean and done with proper connectors. Plus it ensures a long lasting insulation as well. Sim Lim and Autobacs sell all sorts of cool connectors, allowing to tap into wires and connecting them in a nice, hassle free way.

 

Last tip I find useful: take pictures with your phone or whatever of the set up before you start working and at each step: it will be a great way to remember where the bolts go, where the wires go etc etc if you change anything and want to go back or "close" the bike.

 

Enjoy your DIY project !

 

the tube under the tank is not the fuel line

thats the overflow drain tube

some tanks do not have them

the fuel line have to be removed from the fuel lever

[SC Gaban]

be careful of where you park

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzcosjx5DbY&feature=related

 

hahah!! like the 1:16-1:20 sec clip.

[robbedzombie]

just got a voltmeter from rabbit over at the cmo section. to waterproof can just apply silicon sealant at the open edges all along the side right?

[robbedzombie]

hahah!! like the 1:16-1:20 sec clip.

 

hahahaha the aney take some spotlight arhx hahah