[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

[TitanicLexus]

Dear all,

 

Help... my mirror was broken today, like the pics attached, it break into two got one line in btw...juz like the pink colour line... :cry: Anyone of your noe its the mirror can be repaired? I bought this mirror at Motoworld, the price cost $90 or above, the mirror is blue colour one which have to effect to block the lightning during nite time... is consider a good mirror. Too bad, dunno why today suddenly lidat?? Its still very very new lor... so i hope izzit any way to repair or fix it?

 

Pls feel free to give me advice and comment. Thks all...

[eement]

solution buy a new one?

[dragonforce]

..the mirror is blue colour one which have to effect to block the lightning during nite time... is consider a good mirror.

 

hi

no offense but i dun really understand this sentence.. how does it block lightning?

whatever it is, i think can ask motoworld if they can replace the mirror itself..

and i understand its quite expensive.. $90..

[Ah Pek]

Dear all,

 

Help... my mirror was broken today, like the pics attached, it break into two got one line in btw...juz like the pink colour line... :cry: Anyone of your noe its the mirror can be repaired? I bought this mirror at Motoworld, the price cost $90 or above, the mirror is blue colour one which have to effect to block the lightning during nite time... is consider a good mirror. Too bad, dunno why today suddenly lidat?? Its still very very new lor... so i hope izzit any way to repair or fix it?

 

Pls feel free to give me advice and comment. Thks all...

 

There are shops that cuts mirror to shape but not suitable for vechicle used. Bikes and cars mirror have a calculated distance and not a true mirroring. Moreover, yours is anti-glare. Solution...replaced new one.

[lau]

Yap..you right..Vtec bikes don't have that fuel kock thingy however the flow thru diaghram 'druming' from the vaccum tube is the same in operation.

 

No part replacement needed..the caosued likely is that of gummy residue likely stuck at the right place that impaired the float to function..like the 'hinge' where the float is supported. What you can do is use a long flat (size of test pen or slightly larger) head screw driver and turn the drain screw of carbs (located at the base of the carbs each facing you depending on left or right). There are four of them, one for each carbs. Let the fuel in the carb's basin flow out. Make sure do this when engine is cold.

 

after all is done..screwed back and shut the drain screw and turn the throttle a few times. Now on the bike and crank a few times and let it start.

 

If the problem does not go away..try another time and if still persist..time to open up carbs to check.

 

The leak is caused by the float not floating when fuel filled up carbs basin. Its supposed to float and pushes a shout off 'valve' from incoming petrol. That small pointed spring cut off 'vavle' pin may be faulty. There are four of them...hardly give faults.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the quick-fix tip. Will follow n observe.

[TitanicLexus]

There are shops that cuts mirror to shape but not suitable for vechicle used. Bikes and cars mirror have a calculated distance and not a true mirroring. Moreover, yours is anti-glare. Solution...replaced new one.

 

If tat is the way....Tink i have to replace new one liao... tis round i go for those without anti-glare mirror better.... even is spoil oso wun feel heart pain.

 

Thks Ah Pek advice.... sadz..... :cry:, Btw, Ah Pek, do you have any idea where i can find those anti-glare mirror but price not so high one? or those with anti-glare mirror all exps de? Thks

[Ah Pek]

If tat is the way....Tink i have to replace new one liao... tis round i go for those without anti-glare mirror better.... even is spoil oso wun feel heart pain.

 

Thks Ah Pek advice.... sadz..... :cry:, Btw, Ah Pek, do you have any idea where i can find those anti-glare mirror but price not so high one? or those with anti-glare mirror all exps de? Thks

 

Usually they are not that expensive..its very common for cars internal back view mirror. For what you paid and I have not seen it, may be you are paying for quality material..but not quality galss..LOL! A crack acrosss like yours looks more like natural courses due to heat and sudden coldness which subjected to how the mirror is made.

 

Right is more important that left mirror...see if you can just dismantle and swop just the top piece or if its flexible in configuration..just use right instead.

 

I have seen all sort of mirrors, both normal and with antiglare ones at LAB and the old man shop (with the eldery couple doing seat wrapping) just two shop away. I supposed most shop like aunty and those along Lavender (sp?) carries some. Go checked them up.

[TitanicLexus]

Usually they are not that expensive..its very common for cars internal back view mirror. For what you paid and I have not seen it, may be you are paying for quality material..but not quality galss..LOL! A crack acrosss like yours looks more like natural courses due to heat and sudden coldness which subjected to how the mirror is made.

 

Right is more important that left mirror...see if you can just dismantle and swop just the top piece or if its flexible in configuration..just use right instead.

 

I have seen all sort of mirrors, both normal and with antiglare ones at LAB and the old man shop (with the eldery couple doing seat wrapping) just two shop away. I supposed most shop like aunty and those along Lavender (sp?) http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/images/smilies/icon-giddy.gifcarries some. Go checked them up.

 

Maybe u r right... paying for the quality is material not the glass... but hor, i oso dunno tat exps one leh...when they fix for me, i din ask for how much, coz i saw one pair sell at this forum only ask for ard $20 buck (not anti-glare)....when i pay tat time juz wonder so exps....due to the anti-glare effect lor....

 

Thks for advice, will drop by to LAB or Auntie shop to check it out....

 

Still feel very heart pain for my mirror.. :cry:

[buttbutt8]

stock mirrors are good, albeit some say its ugly....

[jack_knight]

yeah feel sad for u... however hmm dun think anyshop do repair mirror... save money buy a new one lor... old one dun go, new one nv come...

[Ah Pek]

stock mirrors are good, albeit some say its ugly....

Ulgy?...alamak!...original is the most beautiful of them all man. Look strong and mancho...all others looks like lady handbag mirorrs...

[Qrisx]

hey~!

 

you talking about ma mirrors man?

 

[MUSHA]

Replace with new one...

[Ah Pek]

hey~!

 

you talking about ma mirrors man?

 

 

If I remember correctly, I think your mirror is very nice and the model neame was call "fairlady" or "lily light"...or something like that...it was name after all vanity mirror lah. Honda original one was called "Rambo Rocks!".

[dEeLdo]

if u want similar look but cheaper solution, ur friendly neighbourhood soarthroat Lim Ah Boy!! ahha i bought the same mirrors like urs fr my s4, but of cus cheong ones, at $20 per side....

[rayhunter]

Can yuasa battery model YTX7A-BS use on a spec III and wat's is the price range?

[Ah Pek]

Can yuasa battery model YTX7A-BS use on a spec III and wat's is the price range?

 

As lomg as the following is the same:

 

* 12vdc

* Charging rate 8 or 9/AH

* size to fit into battery compartment

 

..if bigger (do away the battery compartment cover) and of higher current rating..voltage same..can use a "power charger" to help condition the aletrnator charging.

 

Just what I know and am using.

[rayhunter]

As lomg as the following is the same:

 

* 12vdc

* Charging rate 8 or 9/AH

* size to fit into battery compartment

 

..if bigger (do away the battery compartment cover) and of higher current rating..voltage same..can use a "power charger" to help condition the aletrnator charging.

 

Just what I know and am using.

 

pek, u using the same battery also ah?

[Hellevate]

umm hi all. first and foremost sorry if this is a repeated question but i don't know wot keywords to use to search for similar topics. anyways i'm riding a 10 month old Spec III. i ride from s'goon to changi on the tpe everyday with bits of city travelling every other day. i like to start off pretty quick from standstills and i normally change gears at late 4k to 5k (or sometimes slightly above). on the highways on clear straights, i travel at 100km/h (on average and occasionally 110-120 when no one's looking). i use maxima ultra 5w50 (changed every 5000km).

 

ok now that u've a rough idea of my riding style, it might help if i tell u the 'problem' i'm facing. the thing is, ever since 6 months or so ago, (or maybe later) whenever i'm shifting up from 2nd to 3rd or even 3rd to 4th and if i'm not wrong, even happened at 4th to 5th, when i kick the gearshift lever up, my foot feels that i didn't kick the lever up properly (cos i like to kick it up fast so sometimes might not kick up properly) and when i engage the throttle up, the bike's revs just jump up and it sounds as if i hit neutral but the bike will still move!

 

example. i start off from 1st, then 2nd, then when i kick up to 3rd, the lever doesn't feel like it went in nicely and the revs instead of climbing up from 4, jumps up to 5 and climbs up very quickly above but the speed will increase VERRYYY slowly. it feels like the gear is stuck in between? then when i quickly clutch in and kick up again then the rev and the speed will drop and increase normally as if i changed gears properly. lol i dunno if u guys get wot i'm saying...

 

a friend of mine said that it cannot be that the gear is stuck or there'd be a horrible grinding sound instead of the bike still moving. he said that when i kicked up, it actually didn't go up but fell back to the original gear, that's why when i throttle up, the revs climb up. my argument is that if i try kick up to eg. 4th from 3rd, and it drops back to 3rd, the rev may climb up yeah, but the speed also should climb up steadily and i should feel the pull of the acceleration instead of the speed climbing sooooooo slowly. damn i dunno if im making any sense.

 

if i were to let u all 'hear' how it sounds, it sounds like this:

 

1st -> 2nd: vrrrrrrroooooooooOOOOOMM (speed climbs quickly)

2nd -> 3rd: vrrrrrrroooooooooOOOOOMM (speed climbs quickly)

3rd -> 4th: VRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR (speed crawls up)

clutch in and kick up again

maybe 4th: vrrrrrrroooooooooOOOOOMM (speed climbs quickly).

 

sigh... i've run out of ideas to explain this prob... anyone with any hint of wot's happening, please enlighten me...

[Ah Pek]

umm hi all. first and foremost sorry if this is a repeated question but i don't know wot keywords to use to search for similar topics. anyways i'm riding a 10 month old Spec III. i ride from s'goon to changi on the tpe everyday with bits of city travelling every other day. i like to start off pretty quick from standstills and i normally change gears at late 4k to 5k (or sometimes slightly above). on the highways on clear straights, i travel at 100km/h (on average and occasionally 110-120 when no one's looking). i use maxima ultra 5w50 (changed every 5000km).

 

ok now that u've a rough idea of my riding style, it might help if i tell u the 'problem' i'm facing. the thing is, ever since 6 months or so ago, (or maybe later) whenever i'm shifting up from 2nd to 3rd or even 3rd to 4th and if i'm not wrong, even happened at 4th to 5th, when i kick the gearshift lever up, my foot feels that i didn't kick the lever up properly (cos i like to kick it up fast so sometimes might not kick up properly) and when i engage the throttle up, the bike's revs just jump up and it sounds as if i hit neutral but the bike will still move!

 

example. i start off from 1st, then 2nd, then when i kick up to 3rd, the lever doesn't feel like it went in nicely and the revs instead of climbing up from 4, jumps up to 5 and climbs up very quickly above but the speed will increase VERRYYY slowly. it feels like the gear is stuck in between? then when i quickly clutch in and kick up again then the rev and the speed will drop and increase normally as if i changed gears properly. lol i dunno if u guys get wot i'm saying...

 

a friend of mine said that it cannot be that the gear is stuck or there'd be a horrible grinding sound instead of the bike still moving. he said that when i kicked up, it actually didn't go up but fell back to the original gear, that's why when i throttle up, the revs climb up. my argument is that if i try kick up to eg. 4th from 3rd, and it drops back to 3rd, the rev may climb up yeah, but the speed also should climb up steadily and i should feel the pull of the acceleration instead of the speed climbing sooooooo slowly. damn i dunno if im making any sense.

 

if i were to let u all 'hear' how it sounds, it sounds like this:

 

1st -> 2nd: vrrrrrrroooooooooOOOOOMM (speed climbs quickly)

2nd -> 3rd: vrrrrrrroooooooooOOOOOMM (speed climbs quickly)

3rd -> 4th: VRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR (speed crawls up)

clutch in and kick up again

maybe 4th: vrrrrrrroooooooooOOOOOMM (speed climbs quickly).

 

sigh... i've run out of ideas to explain this prob... anyone with any hint of wot's happening, please enlighten me...

 

1) Check if your chain slack is too much.

2) Check if your clutch cable has strecth..if not as its only 10 months

old..check fif your biting point is correct.

3) Check eo level and vicosity status used..higher grade is better.

4) If you have added additive to eo..make sure it does not have particle

content like PTFE or molybdenum disulphide.

5) Learn to change gear at higher rpm (6-10 rpm) Recommended to use Vtec

whenever you can.

[Hellevate]

1) Check if your chain slack is too much.

2) Check if your clutch cable has strecth..if not as its only 10 months

old..check fif your biting point is correct.

3) Check eo level and vicosity status used..higher grade is better.

4) If you have added additive to eo..make sure it does not have particle

content like PTFE or molybdenum disulphide.

5) Learn to change gear at higher rpm (6-10 rpm) Recommended to use Vtec

whenever you can.

 

hallu ah pek, thanks for responding! well,

1) chain slack is perfect as i just changed to a DID x-ring and have been religiously lubricating it

 

2) how do i know the correct clearances? the biting point is a comfortable distance for me and doesn't feel that it has changed much from when i first rode the bike. the only major change is that clutch free play has increased. if i reduce the freeplay, the biting point gets further (and a little uncomfortable)

 

3) my eo level is always safely in between (not exactly middle but juuuust slightly more) the 2 markings in the little window and i use maxima ultra's 5w50 oil. it's a thinner 50 oil unlike maxima extra's 15w50. i was hoping to get a good balance of a revvy 40 oil with the smoothness of a 50 oil. should i make any changes?

 

4) no additives wotsoever. only additives are in fuel

 

5) should have no problem trying this. but fuel consumption will rise right? lol... this is where i'd also like to ask. S4 riders in here tend to advise against revving too high as it'd be deemed harmful (dragging ur rpm) plus i guess more importantly, increases FC. yet from my understanding, the S4 is a high revving machine and operates well at higher revs instead of keeping them low.. right? so i'm curious to know how upshifting at higher rpms help...

 

if it's good for the health of the bike, i will stop at no expense to adopt wotever practices neccessary!

[Ah Pek]

>>1) chain slack is perfect as i just changed to a DID x-ring and have been religiously lubricating it

 

Ok...void.

 

>>2)...biting point is a comfortable distance for me and doesn't feel that it has changed much from when i first rode the bike. the only major change is that clutch free play has increased. ..

 

U hve 2 decide..either comfortable or irritation with gear shifting. The latter is more important as we are talking about having the clutch plates playing right.

 

 

>>3) ..i use maxima ultra's 5w50 oil. it's a thinner 50 oil unlike maxima extra's 15w50. i was hoping to get a good balance of a revvy 40 oil with the smoothness of a 50 oil. should i make any changes?

 

Ur machine is still very new..stick to what you r having..or use 10/40w..that's what I would used if that was my machine. In our tropical humid region..we don't need "W" or "5W"..even the coldest night rain till the chilling morning..10W works great..and if you have premixed something like green oil in your fuel..its even better (works like 2T bikes engine in you first firng of engibne..cyclinder sleeve is 'lube').

 

>>4) no additives wotsoever. only additives are in fuel

 

Hope its the right stuff though.

 

>>5) should have no problem trying this. but fuel consumption will rise right?

 

Right..there is no compromising here. Increase in power recipocate to increase in fc.

 

>>lol... this is where i'd also like to ask. S4 riders in here tend to advise against revving too high as it'd be deemed harmful (dragging ur rpm) plus i guess more importantly, increases FC.

 

Reving the bike for no reason is one thing, whacking or racing a bike is another and dragging your bike to hi rpm is using it for what its build for. We are not talking about a bike that annot handle it. Honda don't call it "Super" for mnothing. Go ahead..make the engine scream..it begs for it.

 

>>yet from my understanding, the S4 is a high revving machine and operates well at higher revs instead of keeping them low.. right? so i'm curious to know how upshifting at higher rpms help...

 

Cleaner chamber and used best for what the bike is build for. Ppl who ride S4 and want to save fuel..I can't help and I always asked myself why you the rider own an S4 for.

 

>>if it's good for the health of the bike, i will stop at no expense to adopt wotever practices neccessary!

 

To stay in peak and have performance yet stay reliable..have X-1R in eo, green oil in fuel, proper correct grounding, install a Power Charger..the rest are jsut about general.

[ahlexsgbikes]

Hi,

 

recently, i'm not able to start up my bike. when i crank it up, there is a tick tiak sound coming from some where left near the fuel tank.

 

i have changed the carbon starter, starter relay but still has that problem...

 

i'm so frustrated with it because everytime i need the bike urgently it die on me... i had to push start each time...

 

please help me~~~

[s4vtec]

Hi,

 

recently, i'm not able to start up my bike. when i crank it up, there is a tick tiak sound coming from some where left near the fuel tank.

 

i have changed the carbon starter, starter relay but still has that problem...

 

i'm so frustrated with it because everytime i need the bike urgently it die on me... i had to push start each time...

 

please help me~~~

 

if its a continuous tick tiak sound when u try to crank, high chance ur battery is weak... alternative, will be ur starter relay connectors oxidation causing contact problem... and also ur battery terminal connectors might be loose... check on them.

my 2 cents...

[bernardk]

Sounds very much like battery weak. when was your last batt change? Wat was the last thing you do before this happens.