[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

[TitanicLexus]

go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200

 

 

IKER;4353047']The link pls....

 

YES.... link pls.... 200 buck only.. super interested....

[Darkness19]

go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200

 

sure or nt??$200??can show me the link

[Chal V-Tec]

sure or nt??$200??can show me the link

 

yah ar bro...any specific links.....?

cos iam sure all the riders are curious abt the good deal...

 

cheers..!

[biting_point]

bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes

can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......

 

bring it to a bike shop to check..

[TitanicLexus]

I went for motorworld today, they quote me the price for modify spec3 tail is $400 and $450 two diff price. The different is $400 one is same pattern as spec3 tail, $450 one will be different for the number plate part there, look more nicer than original.

 

Beside this one, they quote me the price for respray and change those old items and add something. The price they quoted depend of my request such as new signal light, respray all the cover part, respray rim, respray belly, new fairing, respray box, respray some engine part n polish other old item etc total ard $650...

 

I still consider for my renewal and respray project, total cost ard $1,200, time taken around two week time, make it totally diff.....wooo...

[LAZIAF85]

a question to ask...

 

can a version s rear hugger able to fit on s4 spec II?? pls help...

[Owen0606]

$200 woah!! cheap cheap... wat i heard is $400 to $500. hmmmm... any1 might help??

[wizzy_bradz]

a question to ask...

 

can a version s rear hugger able to fit on s4 spec II?? pls help...

 

nope ask shop before.........

[deviLLian]

IKER;4351472']cheap ah, dunno whats your budget...

 

but its ard 460-480 for moulded tail without undertray.

inclusive of LED tail light, rear fender.

 

Its ard 600 if you want everything to be original.

inclusive of everything.

 

gulpz..600? might as well get a yoshi rite.. add 30 more can get full rainbow

[PaLmEr]

bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes

can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......

 

sounds like jammed brake piston seals

[s4vtec]

bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes

can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......

 

ur brake calipers needs a service. go to bike shop.

[Ah Pek]

This post and a few others to follow will provide an easy reference-guide to the more common faults that are likely to afflict your bike.

 

Problem with your bike are almost limitless and to try and cover all eventualities would require a book. But what you gonna see here down the line are just about every books for a mototiam mechanic to know would be covered..well..the least said..hopefully...LOL!

 

Successful troubleshooting is not that difficult but with some knowledge combined with a systematic and logical approach, it can be a routine thingy after awhile.

 

To start off right, the first approach is by accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and progressing in stages to the most complex...however one has to apply liberal quantities of common sense.

 

What you gonna read in the next post is the main symptom of a fault given as the major heading followed below by a list... the various systems or areas which may contain the fault. Possible cause for a fault and recommended remedial to be taken are given in brief below each heading.

 

Ok..without further ado..let us have the first installment in..

Please note that all that you are about to read are abstract from books articles written by professional mechanics. Any injury/injuries caused by DIY base on what you read here is not the responsibility of the poster here..these are purely for knowledge and "know-how..know-what" and always recommended to be carried out by an experience mechanic. Otherwise, if you are capable..its all at your own risk.

[Ah Pek]

1 Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start

Starter motor doesn't rotate

 

1) Engine kill switch OFF.

 

2) Fuse blown. Check main fuse.

 

3) Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery.

 

4) Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure.

Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is pushed. If the

relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor.

 

5) Starter relay faulty.

 

6) Starter switch not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded or

dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch.

 

7) Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to

make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for

broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to earth.

 

8) Ignition (main) switch defective. Renew the switch if it is defective.

 

9) Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded

contacts.

 

10) Faulty neutral, sidestand or clutch switch. Check the wiring to each

switch and the switch itself accordingly.

 

 

Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over

 

1) Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or renew

 

2) Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and renew the damaged

parts.

 

 

Starter works but engine won't turn over (seized)

 

1) Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components.

 

Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include

seized valves, followers, camshafts, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rod

bearings, or transmission gears or bearings.

 

No fuel flow

 

1) No fuel in tank.

 

2) Fuel tank breather nose obstructed.

 

3) Fuel tap filter or in-line filter clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the

filters.

 

4) Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it.

 

5) Float needle valve clogged. For all of the valves to be clogged, either a

very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some

other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine

has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a

varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets.

 

The carburettors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float

chambers doesn't solve the problem.

 

 

Engine flooded

 

1) Float height too high.

 

2) Float needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris

can cause the valve to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be

admitted to the float chamber. In this case, the float chamber should be

cleaned and the needle valve and seat inspected. If the needle and seat

are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be renewed

 

3) Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (ie, if all the

carburettor functions are sound) the machine should start with little or no

throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the

engine started without opening the throttle.

 

When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of

throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap

OFF and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This will allow

additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back

ON after the engine starts.

 

....to be continued

[Ah Pek]

No spark or weak spark

1) Ignition switch OFF. Engine kill switch turned to the OFF position

Battery voltage low. Check and recharge the battery as necessary

Spark plugs dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled plugs

using spark plug condition chart at the end of this manual and follow the

plug maintenance procedures.

 

2) Spark plug caps or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition. Renew

if cracks or deterioration are evident.

 

3) Spark plug caps not making good contact. Make sure that the plug

caps fit snugly over the plug ends.

 

4) Ignition control unit defective.

 

5) Pulse generator coil(s) defective.

 

6) Ignition HT coils defective.

 

Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water, corrosion,

damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned

with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning does not help, renew the

switches.

 

Wiring shorted or broken between:

1) Ignition (main) switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse)

2) Ignition control unit and engine kill switch

3) Ignition control unit and ignition HT coils

4) Ignition HT coils and spark plugs

5) Ignition control unit and pulse generatorâ–¡ Make sure that all wiring

connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken

wires.

 

Compression low

1) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall

and tighten securely.

2) Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is

suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or head

is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head

nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence.

Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing

completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and

adjust the valve clearances.

Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression

pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings

as well. A top-end overhaul is necessary.

3) Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings

usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes excess

carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top-end

overhaul Is necessary.

Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive

wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head gasket damaged, If a head is allowed to become loose, or if

excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber

causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing

the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is

necessary.

Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly

tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is

necessary.

...to be continued

[BIKER1605199362]

gulpz..600? might as well get a yoshi rite.. add 30 more can get full rainbow

 

 

already have the full rainbow...

[Ah Pek]

1 Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start

 

Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the springs must be renewed.

 

Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburation or lubrication problems).

 

The valves must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if possible.

 

 

Stalls after starting

 

1) Improper choke action. Make sure the choke linkage shaft is getting a full

stroke and staying in the out position.

 

2) Ignition malfunction.

 

3) Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water,

or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several

months or more. Drain the tank and float chambers.

 

 

to be continued...

[smiley73]

lah .........

[Ah Pek]

lah .........

 

...hope its real useful...btw...help rate this thread leh

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

good man.. maybe next time free will post some write-ups from "cycle world" or "two wheels"... save people the $ from buying..

 

=]

[4DToToBig Sweep]

...hope its real useful...btw...help rate this thread leh

 

how 2 help 2 rate>??? :confused:

[joajas]

how 2 help 2 rate>??? :confused:

 

Bro, scroll up to the top of the thread and look for "Rating". Click on it to rate.

[edition]

hehe my advice to all wat ah pek type here save a soft copy so tt u can use it as a reference instead having to come sbf to get the info .. some pple may feel wat he stated untrue but still no harm to keep it as a reference as you might wrong ...

 

for ah pek work ..

[4DToToBig Sweep]

hehe my advice to all wat ah pek type here save a soft copy so tt u can use it as a reference instead having to come sbf to get the info .. some pple may feel wat he stated untrue but still no harm to keep it as a reference as you might wrong ...

 

for ah pek work ..

 

 

Thankz Bro... me voted already :)

 

Ah pek Rockz:thumb: :thumb:

[Ah Pek]

Continue...

 

2 Poor running at low speeds

 

 

Spark weak

Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery. Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.

1) Spark plug cap or HT wiring defective.

2) Spark plug caps not making contact.

3) Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.

4) Ignition control unit defective.

5) Pulse generator defective.

6) Ignition HT coils defective.

 

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

1) Pilot screws out of adjustment.

 

Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the carburettors.

 

Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages.

 

Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing.

 

Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and

renew or repair defective parts.

 

2) Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height.

 

3) Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

 

4) Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears

or loose clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifold joints if split or

perished.

 

 

Compression low

1) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads.

Reinstall and tighten securely.

2) Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is

suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head

are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head

nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence.

Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing

completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and

adjust the valve clearances.

3) Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear Will cause compression

pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings

as well. A top-end overhaul Is necessary.

Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston

rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes

excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings.

Top-end overhaul is necessary.

Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive

wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head gasket damaged. If a head is allowed to become loose, or if

excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber

causes extremely nigh compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing

the head is not always sufficient tn restore the seal, so gasket renewal is

necessary.

Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly

tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is

necessary.

Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the

springs must be renewed.

Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-

revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper

carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from

carburation, lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or

renewed and the seats serviced if possible.

Poor acceleration

1) Carburettors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburettors.

 

2) Timing not advancing. The pulse generator or the ignition control module

may be defective. If so, they must be renewed, as they can't be repaired.

 

3) Carburettors not synchronised. Adjust then with a vacuum gauge set or

manometer.

 

4) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that recommended

can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the

engine.

 

5) Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake

piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

 

 

 

to be continued....

[inspire85]

Upz for u ah pek! But some of the info too chim or can't diy one..