Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

[cArRotZ]

Originally posted by Subway@Nov 4 2004, 09:47 PM

Just taken my biek today .. do overhaul. changed block piston .. fine tat my biek sound from teh pipe totally change . like much louder.. and when i wanan drag 1st gear .. when reach 6rpm.. liek kena stuck liek tat b4 can go up.. any 1 can tel me why this happen ?

i also got same prob. den i wash carb (not uncessary) and i adjust the valve thingy. the rpm screw also to intake lesser fuel den ok le.

[Metalfyre]

Originally posted by Subway@Nov 4 2004, 09:47 PM

Just taken my biek today .. do overhaul. changed block piston .. fine tat my biek sound from teh pipe totally change . like much louder.. and when i wanan drag 1st gear .. when reach 6rpm.. liek kena stuck liek tat b4 can go up.. any 1 can tel me why this happen ?

my friend...if you just overhauled the block and piston and piston rings are all tight n rough against each other.

you have to run in your engine...

remember to change your engine oil after around 2-3 full tanks worth of mileage...which is what I did for my bike la when I overhauled.

[ravenSP]

correct me if im wrong, but isnt the engine oil (4t) only for the gearbox?

 

remember to use good 2t! dont use the cheap ones, will be bad in the long run if you use those when running in

[tom3694]

Originally posted by Subway@Nov 4 2004, 09:47 PM

Just taken my biek today .. do overhaul. changed block piston .. fine tat my biek sound from teh pipe totally change . like much louder.. and when i wanan drag 1st gear .. when reach 6rpm.. liek kena stuck liek tat b4 can go up.. any 1 can tel me why this happen ?

the fact your having new engine parts, compression increase which is why your

 

muffler sounds powerful (kiat)

 

seems to me you dont communicate with your machine at all

 

for the next 2400km 1 to 3 gear keep within 5k rpm 4-6 within 10k rpm estimate

 

did u warm up the bike b4 u rev? ( temp needle touch the white part )

 

the bike wasnt run-in at all

 

ride the bike smoothly flip thru the gears but never force it (yes the screamin part)

 

imagine kicked u off the bed in mornin and force u to sprint the next

 

moment

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by filbert@Nov 5 2004, 01:00 AM

remember to use good 2t! dont use the cheap ones, will be bad in the long run if you use those when running in

PLEASE USE ONLY MINERAL BASED 2T (CHEAPER VARIETY COMPARED TO SYNTHETICS) DURING RUNNING IN....

[jt9d]

y? is mineral 2t dat bad? im usin silkolene mineral 2t leh.... LOL niwae hw u all respray back the rusted belly uh? open the fairing den take out the belly and spray back black or u guys dun take out and just spray it??

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by jt9d@Nov 5 2004, 02:27 AM

y? is mineral 2t dat bad? im usin silkolene mineral 2t leh.... LOL niwae hw u all respray back the rusted belly uh? open the fairing den take out the belly and spray back black or u guys dun take out and just spray it??

Read my post carefully... USE ONLY MINERAL 2T when running in...

[tom3694]

Originally posted by jt9d@Nov 5 2004, 02:27 AM

y? is mineral 2t dat bad? im usin silkolene mineral 2t leh.... LOL niwae hw u all respray back the rusted belly uh? open the fairing den take out the belly and spray back black or u guys dun take out and just spray it??

dismantle the whole pipe and open the belly empty it spray high temp black done

[jt9d]

Originally posted by tom3694@Nov 5 2004, 04:40 AM

dismantle the whole pipe and open the belly empty it spray high temp black done

hmmm dismantle.. die man... i dun have the tools to open up the fairing and dismantle the belly except for the allen keys.... dammit...

[Subway]

Originally posted by tom3694@Nov 5 2004, 01:05 AM

the fact your having new engine parts, compression increase which is why your

 

muffler sounds powerful (kiat)

 

seems to me you dont communicate with your machine at all

 

for the next 2400km 1 to 3 gear keep within 5k rpm 4-6 within 10k rpm estimate

 

did u warm up the bike b4 u rev? ( temp needle touch the white part )

 

the bike wasnt run-in at all

 

ride the bike smoothly flip thru the gears but never force it (yes the screamin part)

 

imagine kicked u off the bed in mornin and force u to sprint the next

 

moment

must run IN 2400km ar? not 1000km? and u say 4-6 gear within 10k rpm estimate ? if keep within 10k liek tat wil be fast lieo leh... what u mean by the bike wasnt run-in at all ?i dun understand .. i use essos malaysia 2t leh.. 8.9rm onli.. but teh 1 wit beckham face good anot ?

[Subway]

Originally posted by Metalfyre@Nov 5 2004, 12:50 AM

my friend...if you just overhauled the block and piston and piston rings are all tight n rough against each other.

you have to run in your engine...

remember to change your engine oil after around 2-3 full tanks worth of mileage...which is what I did for my bike la when I overhauled.

2-3 full tank change 1 engine oil? wow.. like expensive leh... 2-3 tank must spend 20 plus..? really anot.. i tot engine oil 1 mth once is perfect ? correct me if i am wrong ..

[Subway]

Originally posted by calebO@Nov 4 2004, 11:53 PM

i also got same prob. den i wash carb (not uncessary) and i adjust the valve thingy. the rpm screw also to intake lesser fuel den ok le.

how to tel the mech to do ? i mean how to tel him my problem ?

[ravenSP]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Nov 5 2004, 02:38 AM

Read my post carefully... USE ONLY MINERAL 2T when running in...

thought it was only for 4strokes?

 

darn

[d0n]

Originally posted by Subway@Nov 4 2004, 09:47 PM

Just taken my biek today .. do overhaul. changed block piston .. fine tat my biek sound from teh pipe totally change . like much louder.. and when i wanan drag 1st gear .. when reach 6rpm.. liek kena stuck liek tat b4 can go up.. any 1 can tel me why this happen ?

bro

u need to run-in yr new piston lehz

dont whack the RPM so hard for the nxt 800KM and dont use fully synthetic engine oil till u cross the 800KM

it should have more power after the piston and piston ring has bedded in nicely

[d0n]

Originally posted by jt9d@Nov 5 2004, 05:40 AM

hmmm dismantle.. die man... i dun have the tools to open up the fairing and dismantle the belly except for the allen keys.... dammit...

go to motordiam see if they are willing to do it for u at a fee lorz

the previous owner of my bike told me his regular mech in some shop in JB does it for him for free

[d0n]

Originally posted by filbert@Nov 5 2004, 01:00 AM

correct me if im wrong, but isnt the engine oil (4t) only for the gearbox?

 

remember to use good 2t! dont use the cheap ones, will be bad in the long run if you use those when running in

hm...you3 dao4 li3..

so the mineral 4T thing works for 4strokers only? 2strokers dont need follow?

[ravenSP]

Originally posted by d0n^@Nov 5 2004, 11:27 AM

hm...you3 dao4 li3..

so the mineral 4T thing works for 4strokers only? 2strokers dont need follow?

bu dong leh, i thought it only applies to 4strokers, thought have to use good fully syn 2t for running in

 

but im really not sure also, anyone can enlighten us? i also curious hehe

[tom3694]

Originally posted by jt9d@Nov 5 2004, 05:40 AM

hmmm dismantle.. die man... i dun have the tools to open up the fairing and dismantle the belly except for the allen keys.... dammit...

go in jb and ask the mech to do lah about 80 ringgit

 

once open belly and remove converter insider consider illegal modded

 

the reason the belly rust is due to excessive heat build up at the particular area as

 

the converter so-called reduce noise and smoke emission

[tom3694]

Originally posted by Subway@Nov 5 2004, 06:33 AM

must run IN 2400km ar? not 1000km? and u say 4-6 gear within 10k rpm estimate ? if keep within 10k liek tat wil be fast lieo leh... what u mean by the bike wasnt run-in at all ?i dun understand .. i use essos malaysia 2t leh.. 8.9rm onli.. but teh 1 wit beckham face good anot ?

like i said u having new engine parts 2400 km is a safe figue b4 u try your 'full

 

throttle' stunt on it

 

4-6 gear rev within 10k rpm is just for reference best within 7k rpm but would u

 

heed advice as u oredi tekkan till 6k rpm for 1st gear

 

run-in actually means the seasoning of metal parts rubbing together like piston and rings against cylinder block, gears against gears etc ( search on net how engine works )

 

as for the moment use the cheapest 2t without synthetic to give the various parts to 'sit-in' comfortably with the other in order to work properly

 

later on u can use whatever 2t u want whether for outboard or rocket engine

 

really doesnt matter

[tom3694]

Originally posted by Subway@Nov 5 2004, 06:35 AM

2-3 full tank change 1 engine oil? wow.. like expensive leh... 2-3 tank must spend 20 plus..? really anot.. i tot engine oil 1 mth once is perfect ? correct me if i am wrong ..

ok from start 0-100 km of runnin change engine oil once

 

next will be 800km of runnin

 

next 1600km of runnin

 

last will 2400km of runnin

 

use whatever engine oil u like from now on ( from 0-2400 km use the mineral engine oil )

 

change per month irregardless of mileage when u operate on seasoned

 

engine

[tom3694]

Originally posted by d0n^@Nov 5 2004, 11:27 AM

hm...you3 dao4 li3..

so the mineral 4T thing works for 4strokers only? 2strokers dont need follow?

erhm......... with regards to this matter there are 2 sides of coin

[R3sistor]

Originally posted by filbert@Nov 5 2004, 11:11 AM

thought it was only for 4strokes?

 

darn

4-strokes don't use 2T.

[ddaniel]

Anyone going down Mah Motors tmr?hmm..wonder wat freebies dey b giving

[ravenSP]

Originally posted by R3sistor@Nov 5 2004, 08:37 PM

4-strokes don't use 2T.

its was that unclear? sorry about that then.

 

QUOTE (FireSpitter @ Nov 5 2004, 02:38 AM)

Read my post carefully... USE ONLY MINERAL 2T when running in...

 

i thought only 4strokers needed to use mineral 4t to run in. and that 2strokers didnt need to use mineral 2t to run in.

[R3sistor]

Originally posted by filbert@Nov 5 2004, 09:38 PM

its was that unclear? sorry about that then.

 

QUOTE (FireSpitter @ Nov 5 2004, 02:38 AM)

Read my post carefully... USE ONLY MINERAL 2T when running in...

 

i thought only 4strokers needed to use mineral 4t to run in. and that 2strokers didnt need to use mineral 2t to run in.

yeah. What he meant was mineral 2T. Its just another kind of grade of 2T meant for 2-stoke bikes to be used as yr 2T while u'r running yr bike with mineral 4T as well