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Posted
wahh if wanna chg clutch housing must chg clutch plate as well? :faint:

 

Can do seperately but it's very leceh for mechs. They will say change clutch housing one straight shot. :angel:

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/LVInfernalWar.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/3583_photo.jpg

Posted
$260 at bikeworkz. $95 for clutch plates. :angel:

 

 

oh. sound like is your overflow pin in your carb.

 

Hi, how does this prob related to the overflow pin?? can describe in more detail? any DIY method to solve, or need to retune carb or something?

Riding Since 198+:

Honda C70, Yamaha 100 Sport, Suzuki BEST 110

Suzuki Panther 150, Yamaha 125 Antolo Scramble

YAMAHA LC135 YPVS (Trade in) 1997

YAMAHA RXZ135 (Trade in) 1998

HONDA WAVE 110 (Trade in) 2000

HONDA CBR150 Repsol (Trade in) 2004

HONDA CB400 Super Four Spec 3 Spec III (Trade in) 2010

HONDA CB400X 2014

Posted

does anyone know y i can't change the time?

I've switch off my engine n on it back but the time display still shows 1:00 after trying for a few times... sianzz

Posted
does anyone know y i can't change the time?

I've switch off my engine n on it back but the time display still shows 1:00 after trying for a few times... sianzz

 

Urs vtec what? If vtec 3, need to press the 2 black buttons for a few sec and the time display will blink. Thats when u adjust ur time. If im not wrong, left button for hour, right button for mins. Then after adjusting, jus turn off your ignition.

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/LVInfernalWar.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/3583_photo.jpg

Posted
Urs vtec what? If vtec 3, need to press the 2 black buttons for a few sec and the time display will blink. Thats when u adjust ur time. If im not wrong, left button for hour, right button for mins. Then after adjusting, jus turn off your ignition.

 

set liao leave it, it will change back to normal too, dun need off on. :cheeky:

Kawasaki 150ZX ::Rusty:: 2005-2010

Honda CB400 Revo ::BlackBeauty:: 2010-20XX

-------------

|Biologic iPhone Mount|Stebel Nautilus Horn|K&N Air Filter|

|Ah Pek's Grounding Wire|DIY 5V USB Port|Scorpio SR-i900|

|DIY Secondary Strobe Brake Leds|

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Posted
wahh if wanna chg clutch housing must chg clutch plate as well? :faint:

don't need. :angel:

Can do seperately but it's very leceh for mechs. They will say change clutch housing one straight shot. :angel:

leceh meh? i see some of my mech change other s4 housing but didn't change the plates.

Hi, how does this prob related to the overflow pin?? can describe in more detail? any DIY method to solve, or need to retune carb or something?

 

my bike used to have this type of problem. stop at traffic light. then when want to move off, the bike like no power and want to die. off and on throttle then okie already.

 

went to bike shop, and my mech say is the overflow pin old already. is a small pin that stop the petrol to overflow at carb. which mean when my bike stop at traffic light to long, the petrol will start to overflow at the carb thus cause the bike to be like this. decided to change it at the cost of $15 per pin as i want to wash my carb.

 

however, if you don't want to change the pin, next time before you move off from traffic light just rev one time to clear the overflow. see whether it work for you. :cheeky:

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

Ride safely. Be courteous. =)
Posted
Can do seperately but it's very leceh for mechs. They will say change clutch housing one straight shot. :angel:

 

don't need. :angel:

 

leceh meh? i see some of my mech change other s4 housing but didn't change the plates.

 

 

my bike used to have this type of problem. stop at traffic light. then when want to move off, the bike like no power and want to die. off and on throttle then okie already.

 

went to bike shop, and my mech say is the overflow pin old already. is a small pin that stop the petrol to overflow at carb. which mean when my bike stop at traffic light to long, the petrol will start to overflow at the carb thus cause the bike to be like this. decided to change it at the cost of $15 per pin as i want to wash my carb.

 

however, if you don't want to change the pin, next time before you move off from traffic light just rev one time to clear the overflow. see whether it work for you. :cheeky:

 

gee thx for the input. look like my pocket gonna have a big hole pretty soon. this is the problem of getting 2nd hand bikes. one by one need to chg. but i still love my bike!:cheeky:

Posted
$260 at bikeworkz. $95 for clutch plates.QUOTE]

 

Bro, $260: Clutch Springs Upgrade, changing of clutch plates included?

$95 : Changing of clutch plates alone?

 

Am I right to say that? :angel:

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/LVInfernalWar.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/3583_photo.jpg

Posted

Tks for the help.

But i juz found out dat the time is not visible when i off my bike.

Normally it does.

Could it be a fuse problem? (where to but outside?)

I m riding spec I.

Posted
don't need. :angel:

 

leceh meh? i see some of my mech change other s4 housing but didn't change the plates.

 

 

my bike used to have this type of problem. stop at traffic light. then when want to move off, the bike like no power and want to die. off and on throttle then okie already.

 

went to bike shop, and my mech say is the overflow pin old already. is a small pin that stop the petrol to overflow at carb. which mean when my bike stop at traffic light to long, the petrol will start to overflow at the carb thus cause the bike to be like this. decided to change it at the cost of $15 per pin as i want to wash my carb.

 

however, if you don't want to change the pin, next time before you move off from traffic light just rev one time to clear the overflow. see whether it work for you. :cheeky:

 

Ok, understood liao. thx for input!

 

gee thx for the input. look like my pocket gonna have a big hole pretty soon. this is the problem of getting 2nd hand bikes. one by one need to chg. but i still love my bike!:cheeky:

 

Agreed, My bike too will need to change sprocket set, clutch plates, etc 1 by1...sian....but hahaha cant help it as my spec 3 work hard everyday sent me and my wife to and from workplace....must treat her nicely....SA....YANG...!:lol:

Riding Since 198+:

Honda C70, Yamaha 100 Sport, Suzuki BEST 110

Suzuki Panther 150, Yamaha 125 Antolo Scramble

YAMAHA LC135 YPVS (Trade in) 1997

YAMAHA RXZ135 (Trade in) 1998

HONDA WAVE 110 (Trade in) 2000

HONDA CBR150 Repsol (Trade in) 2004

HONDA CB400 Super Four Spec 3 Spec III (Trade in) 2010

HONDA CB400X 2014

Posted

Just wan to get info from u all..

Recently my s4 have tick tick sound from the engine. But bot sure from which part if the engine everytime I start the engine in the morning or when the engine is cold. But after a while I can't hear the sound anymore. Then if I stop the engine and restart the engine while the engine is still in cold condition I also won't hear the sound.. Is it normal? (for me is obviously abnormal coz last time don have this kind of weird sound)

Posted
$260 at bikeworkz. $95 for clutch plates.QUOTE]

 

Bro, $260: Clutch Springs Upgrade, changing of clutch plates included?

$95 : Changing of clutch plates alone?

 

Am I right to say that? :angel:

 

260 not change clutch housing?? So 260 to change spring??

2005 aug - 2006 oct - Wave 125s FV4517M

2006 nov - 2007 jan - Super 4 Version s FP7529R

2007 jan - 2007 sept -spark 135 FBA3986G

2007 sep - 2010 apr - Honda XR400Sm FQ2901B

- Yamaha FZ150I

2010 apr - ????????? -Honda CB400 Spec I.III

-Yamaha FZ150I

Posted

when i apply the front brakes, my front wheel start to shake, can feel the feedback on my handlebars. cone bearings worn out, rite? any1 noes roughly how much it cost to replace? dun wan to kanna chop la

Posted
when i apply the front brakes, my front wheel start to shake, can feel the feedback on my handlebars. cone bearings worn out, rite? any1 noes roughly how much it cost to replace? dun wan to kanna chop la

 

Price range around 70 - 80...

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/LVInfernalWar.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/3583_photo.jpg

Posted

Yesterday i experienced this as i cruz ard 90km/h on the ew, suddenly felt my spec 3 like lost abit of power and slow down abit even i did not close/move my trottle. don know what is wrong?? anyone got same experience b4?? mind to share??

Riding Since 198+:

Honda C70, Yamaha 100 Sport, Suzuki BEST 110

Suzuki Panther 150, Yamaha 125 Antolo Scramble

YAMAHA LC135 YPVS (Trade in) 1997

YAMAHA RXZ135 (Trade in) 1998

HONDA WAVE 110 (Trade in) 2000

HONDA CBR150 Repsol (Trade in) 2004

HONDA CB400 Super Four Spec 3 Spec III (Trade in) 2010

HONDA CB400X 2014

Posted
$260 at bikeworkz. $95 for clutch plates.QUOTE]

 

Bro, $260: Clutch Springs Upgrade, changing of clutch plates included?

$95 : Changing of clutch plates alone?

 

Am I right to say that? :angel:

erm, $260 is to change clutch housing. $95 is for clutch plates. not sure what is clutch spring. hee!

Just wan to get info from u all..

Recently my s4 have tick tick sound from the engine. But bot sure from which part if the engine everytime I start the engine in the morning or when the engine is cold. But after a while I can't hear the sound anymore. Then if I stop the engine and restart the engine while the engine is still in cold condition I also won't hear the sound.. Is it normal? (for me is obviously abnormal coz last time don have this kind of weird sound)

erm, i ask my mech before about morning start bike got this sound. he say is because engine oil sink to the bottom, and need to pump up the engine oil around the engine. thus got the tick tick sound.

 

260 not change clutch housing?? So 260 to change spring??

 

i change my clutch housing at $260. not sure what's clutch spring.

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

Ride safely. Be courteous. =)
Posted

Hi, I am planning to buy a s4 for the first time and just need a few pointers on what to look out for. Or if there is a link to this, I would very much appreciate it.

 

The other thing is, I've been told somewhere that if the headers on a s4 becomes really white, from the initial black assuming it's a stock pipe. That the jetting is bad and the bike is running too lean or something like that. I just want to know how true this is.

And can you really tell a s4 from the rpm meter needle when you revv? I was told that it should be smooth and not wobbly or anything.

 

Those who are knowledgable with regards to this matter, please advice.

Posted
Hi, I am planning to buy a s4 for the first time and just need a few pointers on what to look out for. Or if there is a link to this, I would very much appreciate it.

 

The other thing is, I've been told somewhere that if the headers on a s4 becomes really white, from the initial black assuming it's a stock pipe. That the jetting is bad and the bike is running too lean or something like that. I just want to know how true this is.

And can you really tell a s4 from the rpm meter needle when you revv? I was told that it should be smooth and not wobbly or anything.

 

Those who are knowledgable with regards to this matter, please advice.

 

My header at the front also white. Whether its lean anot I dunno but I think mine is due to the fact that I sand and sprayed my headers bocs of rust and after awhile it will turn white again.

 

When you rev, the rpm needle reaction will depends on alot of factors. Spark plug age and make (heard denso fluctuate more than NGK but I using ngk R plugs also not very stable hahahhaha), whether the carb dirty, or out of sync like running too lean or rich and your carb got anything spoil.

 

See what others have to say too

Posted

Actually the headers can be prevented at first when u buy by applying AMEROL onto the headers...

 

I use it almost everyday n guess wat i manage to maintain the headers black in colour to about 95% for almost 2 years plus oredi... :angel:

Rider Can Be Driver, But Driver Cannot Be Rider......

Posted
Anyone knows where to get the replacement for the ringclip (not sure whats the actual name) that is used to secured the fuel hose ?

 

UM or most shops have it bro.

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/LVInfernalWar.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/ainyan090407/3583_photo.jpg

Posted
Actually the headers can be prevented at first when u buy by applying AMEROL onto the headers...

 

I use it almost everyday n guess wat i manage to maintain the headers black in colour to about 95% for almost 2 years plus oredi... :angel:

 

Serious? Amerol is primer or rust convertor? Last time I applied pye then spray pj1 high temp paint but I found it to flake the paint. Now I sand, spray and I paint the pye over the rust to try. Dunno the outcome yet. Your 95% blackness is you nvr sand the headers before? Mine is sand the original paint and sprayed the pj1 high temp paint and turned white or maybe I skill lousy. hahahaha

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