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Posted
Dun hv the tools to jumpstart...think lan lan must tow. Dun feel like towing back to same shop coz i feel the mech there didnt do a proper and thorough job. Sucks man.

 

To Ah Pek...wah lao if really kena all 3 faulty sure very expensive sia the replacements. Any idea if this kind of problems got symptoms for us to prepare for servicing? And any good shops to recommend to replace at? Many thanks in advance...

In the first place, the mech should show ur reading of ur charging voltage after battery replacemwnt which is a 13.5v dc (at least) to 14.2v dc from a rev rvp range of 2k to 5k rpm. If non of this, means it's not charging. The connector of the rectifier can check urself...see if it's brownish burn (means contact point burn out due to hi-current)..replacement by shop cost around $35 if they do it. To chck rectifier, u need a good one to replace and chck charging voltage again..if reading is ok..means rectifier ok and coil is safe. If a good rectifier is replaced and ur charging voltage is screwed..means ur coil gone liao. Rectifier cost around $85 and coil $300+ to replaced. Replacing manageto coil no need to change EO. (some shop tell u must..than don't do there). Unique or Planet should be expertise in this area of work..or most of the advertiser here. The question here to u is only cost difference but again..have to think of rental overhead and quality type mechanic they employed as all these varies.

 

You can use a pair of jump start cables to start ur bike from ur neighbour car or friend's bike battery...or get someone to push from behind while enaging in 2nd gear and let off clutch to kickstart.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Posted

@Ah Pek, just to clarify:

If the magnet coil is faulty you may not be able to kick start by pushing. You can only do so if you're lucky in that the magnet coil can still generate enough current to spark the plugs but not enough t charge the battery. In my case, a section of magnet coil is burnt and I couldn't push start the bike. Even after jump starting with a car battery, the coil didn't produce enough power to spark the plugs. Thus, I couldn't ride the bike after jump start.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
@Ah Pek, just to clarify:

If the magnet coil is faulty you may not be able to kick start by pushing. You can only do so if you're lucky in that the magnet coil can still generate enough current to spark the plugs but not enough t charge the battery. In my case, a section of magnet coil is burnt and I couldn't push start the bike. Even after jump starting with a car battery, the coil didn't produce enough power to spark the plugs. Thus, I couldn't ride the bike after jump start.

 

"..You can only do so if you're lucky in that the magnet coil can still generate enough current.."...that's right. Just an interesting info..if the coil is ok and when bike can start, without a rectifier (assuming rectifier is bad)..bike can ride without one...LOL!..just that battery wont charge and provided battery is in good condition.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
"..You can only do so if you're lucky in that the magnet coil can still generate enough current.."...that's right. Just an interesting info..if the coil is ok and when bike can start, without a rectifier (assuming rectifier is bad)..bike can ride without one...LOL!..just that battery wont charge and provided battery is in good condition.

 

:thumb:

(texttomakeup10charactersshit)

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
In the first place, the mech should show ur reading of ur charging voltage after battery replacemwnt which is a 13.5v dc (at least) to 14.2v dc from a rev rvp range of 2k to 5k rpm. If non of this, means it's not charging. The connector of the rectifier can check urself...see if it's brownish burn (means contact point burn out due to hi-current)..replacement by shop cost around $35 if they do it. To chck rectifier, u need a good one to replace and chck charging voltage again..if reading is ok..means rectifier ok and coil is safe. If a good rectifier is replaced and ur charging voltage is screwed..means ur coil gone liao. Rectifier cost around $85 and coil $300+ to replaced. Replacing manageto coil no need to change EO. (some shop tell u must..than don't do there). Unique or Planet should be expertise in this area of work..or most of the advertiser here. The question here to u is only cost difference but again..have to think of rental overhead and quality type mechanic they employed as all these varies.

 

You can use a pair of jump start cables to start ur bike from ur neighbour car or friend's bike battery...or get someone to push from behind while enaging in 2nd gear and let off clutch to kickstart.

 

Wow...alot of very useful and vital information there. Will take note n keep look out when i go servicing. Thanks alot Ah Pek!

Posted

Anyone knows if this E.O is semi syn or fully syn?? http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/06/sy8yha2a.jpg

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

06/08/07 --passed Class 2B (3rd attempt)

15/04/09 --passed Class 2A (1st attempt)

01/09/11 --passed Class 2 (2nd attempt)

Posted

hi guys recently i noticed that my front brakes is starting to rub against the brake plates and giving off some rubbing sound. i have done bleeding the brake fluid on the brakes and it is now filled with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid but it doesn't solve anything too. anyone has any idea what i should do?

2012 - 2015: Honda CB400 Spec3

Posted
hi guys recently i noticed that my front brakes is starting to rub against the brake plates and giving off some rubbing sound. i have done bleeding the brake fluid on the brakes and it is now filled with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid but it doesn't solve anything too. anyone has any idea what i should do?

 

check if ur front brake disc is too thin or ur brake pad is wore out..

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

06/08/07 --passed Class 2B (3rd attempt)

15/04/09 --passed Class 2A (1st attempt)

01/09/11 --passed Class 2 (2nd attempt)

Posted
check if ur front brake disc is too thin or ur brake pad is wore out..

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

i just replaced my brake pads and the mechanic also said my brake disc is still new

2012 - 2015: Honda CB400 Spec3

Posted

Hi all,

Anyone encounter the S4 bike sound listen like "Subaru" not a "Honda"....

Cos today service carburettor and tuning, as previously when throttle respond like turtle, now like rabbit!

Feel the speed increase and respond fast also, but the sound becomes difference. Is this normal?

Anyone have the experience before?

Thanks in advance.

Ride Fast, Think Safe;

Ride Safe, Arrive Alive;

Give way, Be patient;

Love your family, Love your life!:cheeky:

Posted
i just replaced my brake pads and the mechanic also said my brake disc is still new

 

haf u service ur brake calipers??

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

06/08/07 --passed Class 2B (3rd attempt)

15/04/09 --passed Class 2A (1st attempt)

01/09/11 --passed Class 2 (2nd attempt)

Posted

Hey guys, does Iridium and normal spark plugs have any effect on the magnetic coil or rectifier - in the sense that will iridium or the normal one so call 'help the coil and rectifier last longer'? Is there any kind of maintenance we should we doing for our coils/rectifier? Apologies if this question is a no brainer but i've been looking through many of the threads and see that the coil/rectifier are common faults (and doesn't come cheap!) so was thinking if there's anything i can do to prolong it's life...

 

Spec 1 here btw. Thanks guys!

Posted
Hey guys, does Iridium and normal spark plugs have any effect on the magnetic coil or rectifier - in the sense that will iridium or the normal one so call 'help the coil and rectifier last longer'? Is there any kind of maintenance we should we doing for our coils/rectifier? Apologies if this question is a no brainer but i've been looking through many of the threads and see that the coil/rectifier are common faults (and doesn't come cheap!) so was thinking if there's anything i can do to prolong it's life...

 

Spec 1 here btw. Thanks guys!

 

Spark plugs doesnt help. All that coil and rectifier are electrical parts which are hard to say..

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

06/08/07 --passed Class 2B (3rd attempt)

15/04/09 --passed Class 2A (1st attempt)

01/09/11 --passed Class 2 (2nd attempt)

Posted
Hey guys, does Iridium and normal spark plugs have any effect on the magnetic coil or rectifier - in the sense that will iridium or the normal one so call 'help the coil and rectifier last longer'? Is there any kind of maintenance we should we doing for our coils/rectifier? Apologies if this question is a no brainer but i've been looking through many of the threads and see that the coil/rectifier are common faults (and doesn't come cheap!) so was thinking if there's anything i can do to prolong it's life...

 

Spec 1 here btw. Thanks guys!

 

Type of spark plug does not play a part. Your EO quality is the MOST IMPORTANT. Poor quality eo or over schedule eo would cause much damage to the inductors (small module like transformer units like components forming a status coil). The laquer coating that protects the copper winding is eroded away by metal filings from gears wears in the gearbox. When this metal filings and eocombines and flow pass by the coil's inductors..it's like 'liquid sandpapers' filing off the laquer protection for the copper wires. Once these copper wires are exposed and metal filing particles gets into them..electrical shoting occurs thus causing the inductors to burn out..especially those located at 11,12,1, and 2 O'clock location (check a sample of a damaged coil and u know what I meant). IMHO.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
haf u service ur brake calipers??

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

nope. what are the things that needs to be serviced for the brake calipers?

2012 - 2015: Honda CB400 Spec3

Posted
Spark plugs doesnt help. All that coil and rectifier are electrical parts which are hard to say..

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

 

Type of spark plug does not play a part. Your EO quality is the MOST IMPORTANT. Poor quality eo or over schedule eo would cause much damage to the inductors (small module like transformer units like components forming a status coil). The laquer coating that protects the copper winding is eroded away by metal filings from gears wears in the gearbox. When this metal filings and eocombines and flow pass by the coil's inductors..it's like 'liquid sandpapers' filing off the laquer protection for the copper wires. Once these copper wires are exposed and metal filing particles gets into them..electrical shoting occurs thus causing the inductors to burn out..especially those located at 11,12,1, and 2 O'clock location (check a sample of a damaged coil and u know what I meant). IMHO.

 

Great. Thanks guys!

Posted

anyone have the original picture of a cb400 spec 1 mudguard aka rear fender? Need help as bike due for inspection

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w33/hElleVer/20130622_173635-1.jpg
Posted

Any kind souls can enlighten me if our oil filler cap is same as wave or any other kup kia??

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

06/08/07 --passed Class 2B (3rd attempt)

15/04/09 --passed Class 2A (1st attempt)

01/09/11 --passed Class 2 (2nd attempt)

Posted

Hello fellow super 4 mates,

 

Am quite new to my current CB400 Spec 3, and have came across this problem that had occurred to me and has find it strange as I have never encountered such propblem.

 

Following is the problem I am facing which I hope that it could be rectified:

 

Throughout the ride from Choa Chu Kang all the way to Paya Lebar, there will be this short 5 minutes in the midst of the ride, the speedometer no 'stopped working', and the RPM meter will be stucked at 5.5 despite the different gear that the bike is at.

 

Apart from that, I could feel that the power is being restricted and the exhaust has a 'stuck' feeling where by I could hear and feel. However, this problem will and the bike will regain its power after the 3-5 minutes of the problem that I have described above.

 

Hope this problem could be solved as I have asked other super 4 riders and they have no idea what is wrong with the bike.

 

Thank you and have a great week ahead guys! :)

 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2

Year 2011 - 2012 : Aprilia RS125

Year 2012 - 2013 : Honda Super 4 Spec 3

Year 2013 - 2014 : CBR100RR

 

When Life Gives You Lemon, Make It Into Lemonade! :p

Posted

Q. Why does the handlebar shake (left/right) at the speed of 40 and above. Can be felt when riding with one hand and when you free hand you could visibly see it shaking. The few reasons i know off are, wheel bearings, steering cone, front tyre, fork out of alignment, does any 1 else know of any other possible reasons.

"What is legal, but not logical, logical, but not legal, and neither logical, nor legal?" Think Abt It...

Posted
Q. Why does the handlebar shake (left/right) at the speed of 40 and above. Can be felt when riding with one hand and when you free hand you could visibly see it shaking. The few reasons i know off are, wheel bearings, steering cone, front tyre, fork out of alignment, does any 1 else know of any other possible reasons.

 

Tire abnormal wear...

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/582610_512257702123995_1975741852_n.jpg

 

"Irreplaceable"

Posted
Q. Why does the handlebar shake (left/right) at the speed of 40 and above. Can be felt when riding with one hand and when you free hand you could visibly see it shaking. The few reasons i know off are, wheel bearings, steering cone, front tyre, fork out of alignment, does any 1 else know of any other possible reasons.

 

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

Although Murray Walker's video clip is quite informative about the wobble and weave phenomenon, my own experience to the wobble on my bike was down to the front tyre.

 

I was using Bridgestone BT090 at the time. I liked these tyres for it's dry and wet grip so I decided to use them again when I bought my Revo. The performamnce was good as expected when the tyres were new. The wobble only started appearing after about 6,000km and at speeds between 30-60km/h. Outside of this speed range, the wobble disappeared. After doing the usual checking (including wheel balancing) and some research, I concluded that the BT090s aren't meant to be used on CB400s due to it's H speed rating. H rated tyres are rated up to 180kmh only and I do ride at those speeds when touring. On several occasions, I had to brake and slow down to about 90kmh. I believe this rapid deceleration put too much stress on the carcass of the tyre, thus causing the wobble.

 

Since changing the tyres, my bike is fine. No wobbles at any speed.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

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