[Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

[Ah Pek]

Guyz...i got a question..i know about chain and sprocket...im using standard sprocket now...does changing standard sprocket to afam or supersprox make any difference...or izit just long lasting...because if its just long lasting...then i might not change it now...

 

Use stock sproket set F (15) / B (44 for Vtec..42 Non-Vtec)...chain size 525. The OEM and stock are very reliable and last long..better still, asked for "Regina" chain. Anything else from this is not that lasting especially when your chain iss of 520 and those sproket set that is colourfui and light in weight..unless you want to waste monies.

[manbai]

Use stock sproket set F (15) / B (44 for Vtec..42 Non-Vtec)...chain size 525. The OEM and stock are very reliable and last long..better still, asked for "Regina" chain. Anything else from this is not that lasting especially when your chain iss of 520 and those sproket set that is colourfui and light in weight..unless you want to waste monies.

 

Hi Ah Pek, does it goes the same for other bikes and models, using stock sprocket I mean?

[Ah Pek]

Hi Ah Pek, does it goes the same for other bikes and models, using stock sprocket I mean?

 

Just know that before a bike is put out in the world market for sales..it has to be in most recommended status from performance, safety and reliability. This said means it has been tested to the highest of requirement from chain, sprockets, tyres, stress points...etc. So, in short, yes..stock is always recommended. There are always third party products that would want to come into business and making claims that their product is better..yes, some is but most are not. One has to be knowledgeable to access the difference between material used but design wise, there is nothing to look for. If you are a paid racer..you want the lightest bike possible and you should be looking for a back sprocket that is full of cut holes. thinner in thickness and made of the lightest material possible like military specs grade aircraft aluminum but then again..it likely cost up to 3 times more and don't last for reliability road uses..that's, you may have to replaced after a few race. For stock..it has been made to last for road useage, though a bit heavier with tough alloy material but it's real value for money. One thing you don't play with is the number of teeth designed for each front and back sprockets. There is a reason for that nimber of teeth on the gears.

[Lord Duckeh]

double post sorry

[Lord Duckeh]

Hi pek, I just got my cb400 ver S. I have some questions.

 

1.

my Ver S voltmeter reads at about 11.8 - 12 at the beginning and goes up to 14 when i accelerate, that is healthy battery right?

 

2.

Any you recommend to spray 1 or 2 colours? whats the price? I know HLC does it.

 

3.

How do i know if i need to change the air filter? I can just open the tank and look at it myself right?

[Ah Pek]

Hi pek, I just got my cb400 ver S. I have some questions.

 

1.

my Ver S voltmeter reads at about 11.8 - 12 at the beginning and goes up to 14 when i accelerate, that is healthy battery right?

 

2.

Any you recommend to spray 1 or 2 colours? whats the price? I know HLC does it.

 

3.

How do i know if i need to change the air filter? I can just open the tank and look at it myself right?

 

1) So many ppl have voltmeter installed and don't know what it's for..sighhh. Anyway..don't trust this meter regardless of what famous brand as most of them are for "cockpit" use..meaning inside a car. It would give you false info sooner or later due to multifunction caused by heat from open parking in the sun. Anyway..the variation fro 12-14V DC means it's showing your magneto coil charging..if there is no change and/or reading at 13.2V DC..your coil chatging the battery is unhealthy. Healthly coil would indicate a 14-14.2V DC. Change in voltages display also meant to show your electrical load..example..riding without signal light on showing 12.3V..when on signaling..you find a dip in voltage reading due to the signal light loading it...this what a voltage meter is for.

 

2) It's your bike..decide for urself and do what you like. Just know that more colours..the labor cost more $s.

 

3) Wrong..access to air filter is on your left hand side just below the end of your tank where the bike seat meets. Cover is lock in by three size 8 hex nut. No need ever to change mostly even for original paper compare to K&N and such..just make sure it's not clustered with black sticky oil vapour grease. Singapore road and air is very clean these days..if you have to..just use compress air gun and give it a few blast. Telltale sign that it's dirty is that when your bike is starve off fuel performance symptom.

[nage]

hi all, thai showa/ohlins any good?

[joe kawa]

Repaint cost about 300..depends on how many colours you go for...just did that recently...

 

care to share where bro..coz im also planning to respray my spec 3 to all black..thanks.

[asrizal]

[Q]

 

Hi fellas, I am currently riding a Honda CB400SF Hyper VTEC Revo 2008 Model. I am wondering if there are any place where I can replace my seat and tail cowl to a cafe-racer type? Appreciate it a lot if it doesn't involve any welding or cutting of the frame. I have heard of some fabricators but I am unsure if they are able to do it. Any tips or guide?

[jhawk2820]

Anyone can recommend a shop to replace speed sensor for Spec 1 under $100 if possible.

[nightman82000]

Hello,anyone have replace exhaust port gasket before? I think mine wore out cause smoke coming out on the head port. How much ?thanks

[joe kawa]

h bros, im getting a 2nd hand renthal handlebar and would like to know if i need any risers or adapters to go along to fit my vtec3?

Thanks.

[alamo]

hi bros, i just bought a spec 3, when i cold start the idling is around 1.45rpm but after awhile it sound like choking and die. But if i ride awhile the engine hot, it idle more than 1.5rpm then wont die.

Whats wrong with it? it is noted the bike before sell to me very long nvr ride alr.

Please advice thanks

[Ah Pek]

hi bros, i just bought a spec 3, when i cold start the idling is around 1.45rpm but after awhile it sound like choking and die. But if i ride awhile the engine hot, it idle more than 1.5rpm then wont die.

Whats wrong with it? it is noted the bike before sell to me very long nvr ride alr.

Please advice thanks

 

 

Change your plugs first..if not plugs issue..it is probably your internal components of the carbs has corroded and oxidised with residues and fungus where floats and pins are affected..usually caused by long storage. Go have a good carb servicing.

[alamo]

Thanks ah pek! will change plugs first

[k1ada_]

[Q] hi bros, a bit noob on bikes thus seeking your advice. would it be better to buy a:

Ver S at $1800

COE till end of this year

 

OR

 

Spec 2 at $4000

COE left 2 more years??

[Ah Pek]

[Q] hi bros, a bit noob on bikes thus seeking your advice. would it be better to buy a:

Ver S at $1800

COE till end of this year

 

OR

 

Spec 2 at $4000

COE left 2 more years??

 

You should be just looking at COE as a buying criteria. Even the one with 2 yrs COE an selling at $1000 only..it doesn't make sense to buy it if it's a problematic one. The other thing to factor in is that are you going to renew COE and keep the bike for long and willing to maintain it for as long as it serve. Price should not also be a buying criteria as you expect to pay more for a well maintained and great condition bike regardless of it's age but rather how it's taken care off and used.

 

Spare parts is another criteria but since most Super4 shares similar parts..that shouldn't be an issue.

 

Don't rush into buying..most important is that the bike you buy must be in reasonable good condition, well maintain by previous owner/owners, preferably accident main frame damge free and last but not least..reasonable price and budget left enough to do up a bit for safer riding.

[k1ada_]

thanks ah pek for your advice.

[Ah Pek]

thanks ah pek for your advice.

 

 

Sorry bro..there was a typo error I just realised..it should read.. " You should NOT be just looking at COE as a buying criteria.".

 

Additional info : If the bike is good and COE is reasonable to as long as want to keep the bike for, then the named price is to be considered.

[Shah_bb]

Q] hi guys, i have a 2 probs with my spec 1. When moving off, i tried to half clutch and maintain my throttle, for the first 1-2 secs, it moves off quite slow (like very little petrol going in), then after that 1-2s cn feel the petrol going in as per normal. Its not as responsive. Is that normal?

 

[Q] 2nd question, here comes the nightmare. In all gears when i rev, be it 1st gear or top gear, below 5000rpm is quite smooth (although feels very slight jerky) but when i rev it above 5000 rpm, my bike starts to cough consistently like as if my exhaust got something stuck inside.

 

Even tho my rpm can still go up, but after hit 5000 rpm, it will go up very slow even after open vtec. Like got air stuck (bop bop bop). It starts to cough at exactly 5000 rpm and above. I think my 1st and 2nd prob are tied together.

 

I sent for carb servicing, change diaphram (damn i dont know how to spell it), change engine oil, spark plugs, oil filter, air filter quite recently. The mech told me then it may be my cdi. If its true, any shops to recommend for a good deal? This 2 probs happened after i sent for carb servicing and change diaphram. Someone pls advise this new cb400 rider. Thank you.

Edited February 29, 2016 by Shah_bb

[ossey86]

Q} Anyone know if there is a Dynojet Power Commander available for 2011 Revo?? Where to buy?

[zhongwee]

Q1) anyone know where to change tail light and speedometer from ver S to spec3?

Q2) what does grounding actually do to the bike?

Thanks

[Issad Familio]

[Q] Hi Guys,I am currently riding CB400 Super Four Vtec 1 registered 2001 it is in its 15th year now. Mileage probably be at 200K plus(Faulty Speedometer)

 

I have recently sent my bike for top service and replaced certain parts that have gone bad. Such as pistons and my coolant pump etc.

 

I was informed by the mechanic during the repair that my CDI was going bad but could still be used. As i have spent a lot on other repairs ($3k) i decided against replacing the CDI thinking i can do it on another time but however upon testing the bike i found that the bike didn't respond as it should.

 

Symptoms: when throttling(moving off) or after clutching in there is a slight delay before power gets through and when it does it will stutter.

Vtec still opens at 7k as per normal and when in high rev it was smooth.. Once you close throttle and open it again you can feel the stutter too...

 

I went back and was told it was because the CDI wasn't providing enough power for the bike to throttle cleanly.

 

I was also informed that because Vtec 1 cdi is no longer in production i would have to convert to either vtec 2 or vtec 3 cdi in which the whole meter would have to be replaced. Cost will be a lot too at least another ($2k)

 

I was also offered a local cdi but i didn't think it would be worth it since it won't last long.

 

I am not sure if the prob is due to the CDI or a poorly tuned carbs(According to mechanic he has tuned it)

 

Has anybody faced this problem before and is it worth to repair or just sell it? Hope someone can shed some light in this

 

Thank you

 

Warmest Regard

Ezzat Fahmy

[Issad Familio]

Q] hi guys, i have a 2 probs with my spec 1. When moving off, i tried to half clutch and maintain my throttle, for the first 1-2 secs, it moves off quite slow (like very little petrol going in), then after that 1-2s cn feel the petrol going in as per normal. Its not as responsive. Is that normal?

 

[Q] 2nd question, here comes the nightmare. In all gears when i rev, be it 1st gear or top gear, below 5000rpm is quite smooth (although feels very slight jerky) but when i rev it above 5000 rpm, my bike starts to cough consistently like as if my exhaust got something stuck inside.

 

Even tho my rpm can still go up, but after hit 5000 rpm, it will go up very slow even after open vtec. Like got air stuck (bop bop bop). It starts to cough at exactly 5000 rpm and above. I think my 1st and 2nd prob are tied together.

 

I sent for carb servicing, change diaphram (damn i dont know how to spell it), change engine oil, spark plugs, oil filter, air filter quite recently. The mech told me then it may be my cdi. If its true, any shops to recommend for a good deal? This 2 probs happened after i sent for carb servicing and change diaphram. Someone pls advise this new cb400 rider. Thank you.

 

I have the same problem too. I just posted asking the same question.

 

The bad news is CDI for vtec 1 no longer in production, i was told the only way to go is to convert to vtec 2 or 3 CDI which means the meter key will have to be replaced and its going to cost at least $2k.

[Ah Pek]

[Q] Hi Guys,I am currently riding CB400 Super Four Vtec 1 registered 2001 it is in its 15th year now. Mileage probably be at 200K plus(Faulty Speedometer)

 

I have recently sent my bike for top service and replaced certain parts that have gone bad. Such as pistons and my coolant pump etc.

 

I was informed by the mechanic during the repair that my CDI was going bad but could still be used. As i have spent a lot on other repairs ($3k) i decided against replacing the CDI thinking i can do it on another time but however upon testing the bike i found that the bike didn't respond as it should.

 

Symptoms: when throttling(moving off) or after clutching in there is a slight delay before power gets through and when it does it will stutter.

Vtec still opens at 7k as per normal and when in high rev it was smooth.. Once you close throttle and open it again you can feel the stutter too...

 

I went back and was told it was because the CDI wasn't providing enough power for the bike to throttle cleanly.

 

I was also informed that because Vtec 1 cdi is no longer in production i would have to convert to either vtec 2 or vtec 3 cdi in which the whole meter would have to be replaced. Cost will be a lot too at least another ($2k)

 

I was also offered a local cdi but i didn't think it would be worth it since it won't last long.

 

I am not sure if the prob is due to the CDI or a poorly tuned carbs(According to mechanic he has tuned it)

 

Has anybody faced this problem before and is it worth to repair or just sell it? Hope someone can shed some light in this

 

Thank you

 

Warmest Regard

Ezzat Fahmy

 

I suggest you asked around a few reputable bike shop that's very familiar with S4 for 2n-3rd opinion. If these ppl from this shop is so DAMN SURE..asked them to GUARANTEE you if you fork out the money. For me..I think it HAS NOTHING TO DO with the CDI.