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Posted

Hey guys, having a problem with my carb now. Whenever I rev my bike the RPM needle goes down really slow after closing my throttle. During 4-5RPM my bike feels like the needle doesn't go up constantly. I'm using a BlueFlame pipe, then the sound it gives out during RPM 4-5 feels abit empty/not constant (if you get what I mean). My bike shop tell me need to overhaul my carb, 600 to 700 bucks... Don't really want to spend that kind of money. Just recently bought this CB400VTEC2, spent way too much on repairing the engine already. Any opinions regarding this? And about the price also 😟

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Posted

[Q] ..i have a CB 400 super4 Version R 97 model in India want to know if the iridium plugs are a better bet compared to the normal plugs? are the iridium plugs available in singapore??

Posted

Guyz...i got a question...is full system exhaust still legal in spore..i heard people say lta banned full system exhaust only end can is ok..my mechanic is legal..there is cert but my collegues say have cert still cannot...so which one...can someone confrim this..

  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys, I'm planning to get the 2015 Super 4 bol'dor SE soon, anyone can enlighten me what's the diff between normal Revo and the SE Revo, any diff in pricing? or any advise please?

I Motor quoted Revo bol'dor SE OTR 21800.

 

You guys can suggest / recommend any shop selling the 2015 Super 4 bol'dor SE.....?

 

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Posted

Guyz...i got a question..i know about chain and sprocket...im using standard sprocket now...does changing standard sprocket to afam or supersprox make any difference...or izit just long lasting...because if its just long lasting...then i might not change it now...

Posted
Guyz...i got a question..i know about chain and sprocket...im using standard sprocket now...does changing standard sprocket to afam or supersprox make any difference...or izit just long lasting...because if its just long lasting...then i might not change it now...

 

Use stock sproket set F (15) / B (44 for Vtec..42 Non-Vtec)...chain size 525. The OEM and stock are very reliable and last long..better still, asked for "Regina" chain. Anything else from this is not that lasting especially when your chain iss of 520 and those sproket set that is colourfui and light in weight..unless you want to waste monies.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Use stock sproket set F (15) / B (44 for Vtec..42 Non-Vtec)...chain size 525. The OEM and stock are very reliable and last long..better still, asked for "Regina" chain. Anything else from this is not that lasting especially when your chain iss of 520 and those sproket set that is colourfui and light in weight..unless you want to waste monies.

 

Hi Ah Pek, does it goes the same for other bikes and models, using stock sprocket I mean?

Posted
Hi Ah Pek, does it goes the same for other bikes and models, using stock sprocket I mean?

 

Just know that before a bike is put out in the world market for sales..it has to be in most recommended status from performance, safety and reliability. This said means it has been tested to the highest of requirement from chain, sprockets, tyres, stress points...etc. So, in short, yes..stock is always recommended. There are always third party products that would want to come into business and making claims that their product is better..yes, some is but most are not. One has to be knowledgeable to access the difference between material used but design wise, there is nothing to look for. If you are a paid racer..you want the lightest bike possible and you should be looking for a back sprocket that is full of cut holes. thinner in thickness and made of the lightest material possible like military specs grade aircraft aluminum but then again..it likely cost up to 3 times more and don't last for reliability road uses..that's, you may have to replaced after a few race. For stock..it has been made to last for road useage, though a bit heavier with tough alloy material but it's real value for money. One thing you don't play with is the number of teeth designed for each front and back sprockets. There is a reason for that nimber of teeth on the gears.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi pek, I just got my cb400 ver S. I have some questions.

 

1.

my Ver S voltmeter reads at about 11.8 - 12 at the beginning and goes up to 14 when i accelerate, that is healthy battery right?

 

2.

Any you recommend to spray 1 or 2 colours? whats the price? I know HLC does it.

 

3.

How do i know if i need to change the air filter? I can just open the tank and look at it myself right?

Posted
Hi pek, I just got my cb400 ver S. I have some questions.

 

1.

my Ver S voltmeter reads at about 11.8 - 12 at the beginning and goes up to 14 when i accelerate, that is healthy battery right?

 

2.

Any you recommend to spray 1 or 2 colours? whats the price? I know HLC does it.

 

3.

How do i know if i need to change the air filter? I can just open the tank and look at it myself right?

 

1) So many ppl have voltmeter installed and don't know what it's for..sighhh. Anyway..don't trust this meter regardless of what famous brand as most of them are for "cockpit" use..meaning inside a car. It would give you false info sooner or later due to multifunction caused by heat from open parking in the sun. Anyway..the variation fro 12-14V DC means it's showing your magneto coil charging..if there is no change and/or reading at 13.2V DC..your coil chatging the battery is unhealthy. Healthly coil would indicate a 14-14.2V DC. Change in voltages display also meant to show your electrical load..example..riding without signal light on showing 12.3V..when on signaling..you find a dip in voltage reading due to the signal light loading it...this what a voltage meter is for.

 

2) It's your bike..decide for urself and do what you like. Just know that more colours..the labor cost more $s.

 

3) Wrong..access to air filter is on your left hand side just below the end of your tank where the bike seat meets. Cover is lock in by three size 8 hex nut. No need ever to change mostly even for original paper compare to K&N and such..just make sure it's not clustered with black sticky oil vapour grease. Singapore road and air is very clean these days..if you have to..just use compress air gun and give it a few blast. Telltale sign that it's dirty is that when your bike is starve off fuel performance symptom.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Repaint cost about 300..depends on how many colours you go for...just did that recently...

 

care to share where bro..coz im also planning to respray my spec 3 to all black..thanks.

Posted

[Q]

 

Hi fellas, I am currently riding a Honda CB400SF Hyper VTEC Revo 2008 Model. I am wondering if there are any place where I can replace my seat and tail cowl to a cafe-racer type? Appreciate it a lot if it doesn't involve any welding or cutting of the frame. I have heard of some fabricators but I am unsure if they are able to do it. Any tips or guide?

A.S.R.I.Z.A.L

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Anyone can recommend a shop to replace speed sensor for Spec 1 under $100 if possible. :lovestruck:

A second of precaution is an hour of safety. It never hurts to ask.

䏿‡‚å°±è¦é—®ï¼Œé—®æ˜¯ä¸ç”¨é’±çš„!

"Life is Neither Fair or Just"

Posted

Hello,anyone have replace exhaust port gasket before? I think mine wore out cause smoke coming out on the head port. How much ?thanks

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

hi bros, i just bought a spec 3, when i cold start the idling is around 1.45rpm but after awhile it sound like choking and die. But if i ride awhile the engine hot, it idle more than 1.5rpm then wont die.

Whats wrong with it? it is noted the bike before sell to me very long nvr ride alr.

Please advice thanks

Posted
hi bros, i just bought a spec 3, when i cold start the idling is around 1.45rpm but after awhile it sound like choking and die. But if i ride awhile the engine hot, it idle more than 1.5rpm then wont die.

Whats wrong with it? it is noted the bike before sell to me very long nvr ride alr.

Please advice thanks

 

 

Change your plugs first..if not plugs issue..it is probably your internal components of the carbs has corroded and oxidised with residues and fungus where floats and pins are affected..usually caused by long storage. Go have a good carb servicing.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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