[Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

[rekcams]

1) I dun use leo vince so I can't advise.. But aeroplane sound gd mah, i wan to make my yoshi sound like aeroplane oso cannot..

 

2) I tink it's normal to have vibration at foot pegs at high speed.. this problem was discussed b4 and it appears almost everyone has this prob..

 

3) Maybe it's time for u to flush the brake fluids and do some brake servicing since it's a old bike.. Or maybe brake pads finish or previous owner uses lousy brake pads..

 

4) It's normal to feel heat from the engine.. S4 is naked bike, not KR or SP got farring to "block" off the heat.. The heat is usually more noticable if travelling in hot day time.. As long as it's not hot until like burning ur legs, it's normal..

 

ks tks:thumb: bro.. then the braking issue how to tell them ar? cuz i just buy the bike only..

[holugyi]

ks tks:thumb: bro.. then the braking issue how to tell them ar? cuz i just buy the bike only..

 

3) Maybe it's time for u to flush the brake fluids and do some brake servicing since it's a old bike.. Or maybe brake pads finish or previous owner uses lousy brake pads..

 

tell them that..>>> flush the brake fluids and brake servicing.

[rekcams]

3) Maybe it's time for u to flush the brake fluids and do some brake servicing since it's a old bike.. Or maybe brake pads finish or previous owner uses lousy brake pads..

 

tell them that..>>> flush the brake fluids and brake servicing.

 

ok.. tks tks. hmm..

 

another problem is when i change higher gear, i always find it is hard to kick up and the "tack" sound very loud sia.. will affect the chain or anything?

[inspire85]

ok.. tks tks. hmm..

 

another problem is when i change higher gear, i always find it is hard to kick up and the "tack" sound very loud sia.. will affect the chain or anything?

 

Yes tell them to bleed ur brake for u and ask them check if ur brake require servicing (most prob they will say yes) but juz do it since brake is impt and u have no idea how the previous owner maintain it.. Do it good and have no worries braking..

 

It involves experience and technique.. Last time when i first bought my bike oso lidat.. Soon, you'll master the skill of clutching in, close throttle and up gear at the same time.. When you can coordinate these 3 movement fast, the tack sound will be gone..

[inspire85]

I have a HID with me now... but just dun know how to fix it when i take out my head light, some wire i cant find on the bike.. it's a plug and play thingy so i need so guide..

 

Clarkewan fix for $30.. Or you can find others who know to assist you fix.. I only saw clarke fix once and it seems quite simple to me..

[Cookbird]

bro... any of u all suffer from this? most of the time when i start the bike when its cold.. the clutch inside in the engine.. i can hear them rattling.. its a worn out clutch housing right?

 

one more weird thing.. when the bike is cold.. and i pull in the clutch lever.. the rattling stops and a slight ringing sound takes over.. sounds abit like PGM dry clutch.. but not as loud.. this ringing sound goes away after the engines warms up...

 

i am thinking to do a overhaul on the clutch.. but dunno if its necessary.. considering to replace clutch friction plates, clutch housing, steel plates and probably clutch springs..

 

Yo I also have this problem with my S4 and my previous bike, RXZ. think its normal cause even in neutral gear, clutch is still somewhat engage to the idling engine,but at a lower speed, u try turn ur trottle the rattling sound from e clutch housing only increase a bit, when u clutch in,it totally disengage so rattling sound no more. (correct me if I'm wrong)

 

think no need to overhaul the whole clutch housing, if really clutch wear, lose of power, i.e top gear, high rpm but low speed then jus change clutch plate can liao...

[yctradingsg]

anyone know where the signal light relay for super4 is? I'm trying to replace my one.

[pendekEverlast]

dear bros..

advice needed.

it is ok for ..

spec 3/carb (new) FBD

M.P - 13.5k

installments- 287 x 60mths = $17,220.

??

 

thanks bros,

pendek.

[thepunkz]

hey guys, got a small prob here. yesterday was riding and den turn off the bike for a while. after tat the bike juz couldn't start. i waited some time and i start the bike. it can be started but juz tat the time, trip meter all have reset. when i press the start button, the LCD display will all be blacken, juz like when u use ur key to turn on the bike, the LCD display will all be blacken. ani one encounter tis b4?

sorry if i didnt explain clearly.

[eedwinn]

Batt flat?

[loyjwe]

batt connection?

[ruhua]

hi ah pek do u do grounding for bikes???

 

btw my spec3 front brake handle when depressed machiam like jammed feeling. must let go and press again den will be abit smoother. a mechanic say is the master brake kit(not sure whether i pronounce correctly) faulty. change a new one cost 30+.

 

is that the cause for my problem?

[thepunkz]

hmmm, i oso 1st thot it might be batt prob. but when moving it shd be charging wat. so if turn off den on back shouldn't be a prob. its oni after a while den can turn on. but, it again might be batt prob. thx.

[maetsuen]

bro... any of u all suffer from this? most of the time when i start the bike when its cold.. the clutch inside in the engine.. i can hear them rattling.. its a worn out clutch housing right?

 

one more weird thing.. when the bike is cold.. and i pull in the clutch lever.. the rattling stops and a slight ringing sound takes over.. sounds abit like PGM dry clutch.. but not as loud.. this ringing sound goes away after the engines warms up...

 

i am thinking to do a overhaul on the clutch.. but dunno if its necessary.. considering to replace clutch friction plates, clutch housing, steel plates and probably clutch springs..

 

 

 

 

 

Yo I also have this problem with my S4 and my previous bike, RXZ. think its normal cause even in neutral gear, clutch is still somewhat engage to the idling engine,but at a lower speed, u try turn ur trottle the rattling sound from e clutch housing only increase a bit, when u clutch in,it totally disengage so rattling sound no more. (correct me if I'm wrong)

 

think no need to overhaul the whole clutch housing, if really clutch wear, lose of power, i.e top gear, high rpm but low speed then jus change clutch plate can liao...

 

 

 

 

I have this same issue with noise coming from the right side of the engine where the clutch cable is connected.

On neutral I can hear that ratlling sound but when I clutch-in the sound slowly disappears.

 

I have no idea what is causing the sound but my bike still picks-up great and power is good.

Roads here in my city is short I could only manage 170kph on 5th gear.

Too bad no more roads to use 6th gear.

 

Any other people having this same ratling sound issue coming from right side of engine?

[SparkerS1]

Any other people having this same ratling sound issue coming from right side of engine?

 

is ur biting point too close?

[maetsuen]

is ur biting point too close?

 

My biting point is not really close, maybe halfway thru when clutching-in.

But the length or span of my biting points is very short.

 

I hope you understand what I mean, its quite hard to explain.

Edited May 2, 2009 by maetsuen

[Ah Pek]

Hi to all experience S4 bros...

 

My headlight sometimes does not seem to work... occasionally.. after off n on engine.. it works again.. ask HKL & Unique mech.. they say my electric starter spoil (The "button" we depress to start the bike).. need to replace.. cost abt 100 plus.. need a 3rd opinion here..

 

Any advise would be greatly appreaciated... Thanks in advance...

 

That's a lot of $$$s! The whole assembly is about the very most $85...just have run the wires and connected into the headlamp for assembling. I bought my for PB!) was only $75 a long while back.

[Ah Pek]

I have this same issue with noise coming from the right side of the engine where the clutch cable is connected.

On neutral I can hear that ratlling sound but when I clutch-in the sound slowly disappears.

 

I have no idea what is causing the sound but my bike still picks-up great and power is good.

Roads here in my city is short I could only manage 170kph on 5th gear.

Too bad no more roads to use 6th gear.

 

Any other people having this same ratling sound issue coming from right side of engine?

 

When was your last change of engine oil and what grade (W)..when was your clutch cable last replaced ?

[Ah Pek]

hi ah pek do u do grounding for bikes???

 

btw my spec3 front brake handle when depressed machiam like jammed feeling. must let go and press again den will be abit smoother. a mechanic say is the master brake kit(not sure whether i pronounce correctly) faulty. change a new one cost 30+.

 

is that the cause for my problem?

 

Yes..he's right..that's the frontal "brake pump kit" and cost around there to replaced.

 

Yes, I do grounding and by appointment only.

[maetsuen]

When was your last change of engine oil and what grade (W)..when was your clutch cable last replaced ?

 

My clutch cable is still the original stock, my bike is now 19,000 kms old.

I had my last oil change at March 31, 2009.

This is was the engine oil that I used, the mechanic poured all 3 liters and a small amount from the 4th liter.

I also had my oil filter changed on the same day.

 

http://images.tabulas.com/44967/l/shell-vsx.JPG

 

 

Does engine oil really play a big part on this issue, if so I will change my engine oil on my next change.

[Ah Pek]

My clutch cable is still the original stock, my bike is now 19,000 kms old.

I had my last oil change at March 31, 2009.

This is was the engine oil that I used, the mechanic poured all 3 liters and a small amount from the 4th liter.

I also had my oil filter changed on the same day.

 

http://images.tabulas.com/44967/l/shell-vsx.JPG

 

 

Does engine oil really play a big part on this issue, if so I will change my engine oil on my next change.

 

Never used or knew of this brand before but I don't suspect the eo now that you mentioned when it was last change. Yes..eo does play a part..partially but not to a great extend. For a 19,000 km mileage, that's pretty new to me.

 

Too new too for clutch wear and tear problems..its likely your clutch cable then...however, I get a better feel of things if I can read your bike physically. Pm me if you would like me to have a look at it..it could be just a adjustment or cable stretch problem.

[maetsuen]

Never used or knew of this brand before but I don't suspect the eo now that you mentioned when it was last change. Yes..eo does play a part..partially but not to a great extend. For a 19,000 km mileage, that's pretty new to me.

 

Too new too for clutch wear and tear problems..its likely your clutch cable then...however, I get a better feel of things if I can read your bike physically. Pm me if you would like me to have a look at it..it could be just a adjustment or cable stretch problem.

 

 

Thanks for your opinion/answer Ah Pek I really appreciate it, I take yours as one coming from a professional expert.

I'll replace my clutch and front break levers soon, I'll have the clutch cable checked on the same time.

 

Hey Ah Pek, what do you think of coolants for our S4's?

Is "50% coolant and 50% distilled water" really a requirement or will "100% distilled water" do the job well?

 

Ride safe guys!

[Ah Pek]

Thanks for your opinion/answer Ah Pek I really appreciate it, I take yours as one coming from a professional expert.

I'll replace my clutch and front break levers soon, I'll have the clutch cable checked on the same time.

 

Hey Ah Pek, what do you think of coolants for our S4's?

Is "50% coolant and 50% distilled water" really a requirement or will "100% distilled water" do the job well?

 

Ride safe guys!

 

No doubt that "distilled water" has no impurities, any two different properties that meets would sure to have some form change reaction..in this case, the radiator build material and the water itself. Over time, rust and some other corrosion form would start when the distilled water is no more pure. Heat build up would oso evaporate the distilled water faster with coolant (Ethylene glycol).

 

Depending on brand and make..mixtures can varies. If you buy those concentrated type (Kiosk one are mostly premixed already), usually mixture recommended is 50/50, 70/30 give and take +/- is not really a concern. Just don't ever use tap or mineral water. "Ethylene" itself is a complex chemistry thingy..coolant can do without glycol in tropical region.

 

To answer you finally..coolant is a MUST HAVE!

[SparkerS1]

To answer you finally..coolant is a MUST HAVE!

 

use engine ice, no need to worry about the mixing ratio, just flush, fill it up n go:cool:

[maetsuen]

To all you guys and to Ah Pek of course I am in need of help.

On another current issue I have with my S4.

I need your opinion on this, desperately.

 

If I shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear at higher rpm say 4,500 rpm or at 7,000 rpm it won’t engage to 2nd gear almost 80% of the time. It will just stay at neutral and wants to stay neutral. At this stage of my gear transition if I force to go to 2nd gear I will hear very "loud crackling sound" as if I hear two gears are eating each other up and I can really feel the vibration of metal to metal eating each other on my left foot. It's as if I'm not fully pressing my clutch when shifting to 2nd gear. But I am pressing the clutch lever at 100%, so I wait until my rpm goes down to 2,500 rpm then I shift to 2nd gear.

 

This has really been annoying and frustrating. There were only a few occasions that I was successfully able to shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear on a high rpm, so I made it a habit to never rev high on 1st gear instead I shift early as possible from 1st to 2nd gear and then there on 2nd gear I awake the VTEC on my Spec III and let the rpm climb high. Shiftings from 3rd to 4th to 5th to 6th is very smooth, even if I'm on 12,000 rpm. I really don't know why 1st gear to 2nd gear is giving me this problem.