Ducati Riders

[-tRuSt-]

Originally posted by ktkt@Apr 7 2006, 10:14 PM

Hmmm.... Check that your rectifier is working (it charges the battery) and that your battery is not more than 2 year old (it has a lifespan one.)

Understand that you recharged the battery the other time?

(I suspect u ride the bike once a week and for short joureys?)

And also when u on the bike, u can hear some farny sound from your fuel tank. It primes the fuel injector lines.

 

U can try push-starting the bike if the batt is not dead.

I managed to push-start mine with side and top box once b4 so I reckon shouldn't be that difficult for yours.

 

Hope this is not a sign of Ducati losing in Qatar 2morrow.

so the funny sound from the fuel tank i think on the left side of it tells me tt there is problem with the rect or batt? i dun think the problem now is the batt... could it be the starter? there is not even a single crank sound... i tried starting once n it could fire up,then it die n when i try starting again, it cannot fire up n eventually there is no crank sound...

 

is there any major problems with this bike or is this pure natural of ducati? how do i take care of the batt n rect? please advice... i do ride like maybe once every 2 weeks but not always and is about 30km...

[ktkt]

Originally posted by [-tRuSt-]@Apr 8 2006, 11:09 AM

so the funny sound from the fuel tank i think on the left side of it tells me tt there is problem with the rect or batt? i dun think the problem now is the batt... could it be the starter? there is not even a single crank sound... i tried starting once n it could fire up,then it die n when i try starting again, it cannot fire up n eventually there is no crank sound...

 

is there any major problems with this bike or is this pure natural of ducati? how do i take care of the batt n rect? please advice... i do ride like maybe once every 2 weeks but not always and is about 30km...

The farny sound is the fuel pump priming the lines. So it's a good sign tat it is working. if no sound, means pump faulty or relay spoil.

 

If can start the starter, means the starter circuit okay.

Figure it's becos when repeatedly thumb the e-start, drained the batt. A fully charged battery is only good for a certain no. of cranking. So a battery not in an optimal state will allow allow one or two crank, worse case, not even a single crank.

U can try opening the throttle abit to or use the throttle opener lever if you have one (basically the lever opens the throttle) when you thumb the e-start.

 

On cold wet days, sometimes I have to manually e-start the bike (using the throttle lever/open throttle) when my remote e-start fails to work.

 

Like I mention, gotta eliminate one option one by one.

It's like go see Doctor, doctor also roughly troubleshoot based on your feedback but ususally I see Doctor get MC nia.

 

1) How old is your battery? 2 year and above, get a new one. (get a gel based one to replace the heavier wet style model if tat's wat on your bike now.)

2) Rectifier working? A Dead rectifier will fail to charge your battery

3) Actually, frequent/short trips will tend not to charge battery (ie. daily 5km rides to the office cos not long enuff to charge the batt ie. X amount of energy to start the bike, only charge back X-100 amount of energy while riding the bike or none if rectifier not working/or batt cannot hold charge due to sulfation/age)

4) Never use before but get a battery tender if you're not riding long enuff to charge the battery

5) Well, you can try to richen the pilot circuitry to make it start slightly easier. (combination of air screw adjustment, and CO2 trimmer on the ECU which can lean or richen the mixture)

 

Try to learn how to push-start your bike. It'll prove invaluable.

Do update us!

 

Capirossi in 2nd position for Qatar Race.

Gibernau in 7th right behind Rossi.

 

Think Capirossi in a good position to win back-2-back races!

 

BTW, I supposed u keep ur bike under a bike cover rite?

[red rocket]

Originally posted by [-tRuSt-]@Apr 8 2006, 11:09 AM

so the funny sound from the fuel tank i think on the left side of it tells me tt there is problem with the rect or batt? i dun think the problem now is the batt... could it be the starter? there is not even a single crank sound... i tried starting once n it could fire up,then it die n when i try starting again, it cannot fire up n eventually there is no crank sound...

 

is there any major problems with this bike or is this pure natural of ducati? how do i take care of the batt n rect? please advice... i do ride like maybe once every 2 weeks but not always and is about 30km...

Well... if got lights

>>> Batt's proberbly allright (may not be at its peak of health though)

Should not be the rectifier because it'll does affect the cranking... it just doesn't put the juice back into the batt.

So...

I think you proberbly have a burnt starter or a dead starter solenoid

 

doen't matter at this point it doesn't matter if you got petrol going thru your lines... worry about this after you get it cranking.

[cagiva03]

Originally posted by [-tRuSt-]@Apr 8 2006, 11:09 AM

so the funny sound from the fuel tank i think on the left side of it tells me tt there is problem with the rect or batt? i dun think the problem now is the batt... could it be the starter? there is not even a single crank sound... i tried starting once n it could fire up,then it die n when i try starting again, it cannot fire up n eventually there is no crank sound...

 

is there any major problems with this bike or is this pure natural of ducati? how do i take care of the batt n rect? please advice... i do ride like maybe once every 2 weeks but not always and is about 30km...

Bro, which model of Ducati are u riding???

 

Even though my 749 is just a year old, the ECU spoil already....But i do recognise a similiarity between urs and mine... Cos ex-owner of my bike seldom ride. U can imagine how often he use the vehicle when he just clock a milage of 3500KM after a year! I have a feeling all this problems arised after we park the bike for too long without riding.... Anybody here encounter the same problems??? It seems that, those who ride it often tends to have less problems. Am i right to say that?

[jonathan543]

hi... juz to clear smt up... doesn't the rectifier supposed to limit the amount of charge going into the batt when high reving instead of charging it? say like to a max of 13v or 14v even when ur red lining?

if the rectifier is damaged, ur batt would be overcharged koz of excessive current going from the generator to the batt... one simple way to check for the working condition of the rectifier is to buy a voltmeter, and connect the coloured wires in parallel to the batt. take note of the volt reading(at least 12v+). next start ur bike & note the reading again(12-13v+ with all lights off)). finally, slowly rev up ur bike & the voltage reading'll increase until to a max or 13-14v plus and it'll stop at dat peak voltage even when u tried to rev higher. this is a gd sign dat ur rectifier is in a gd working condition. if the voltage reading continues to surge upwards when u rev higher, it's a very sure sign ur rectifier is damaged! pls check the water level in ur batt too as it directly affects ur batt's power capacity.

to determine if it's juz the batt dats giving starting up problems & not the damaged electrical components, be4 starting the bike take note of the instrumental llights(neutral lights & others). if they dim when u press the starter button, and there's at least some feedback from the starter motor(some cranking or noise from it) then for sure is ur batt is drained. and if the instrumental lights doesn't dim & there's no signs of feedback from the starter motor, had the mechs check the electrical components. and pls take note the brightness of the main lights, signals & stuff is not an accurate guage of ur batt's condition! koz the starter motor requires alot more juice from the batt to have it start to crank.

u can try to correct the problem(if the batt's drained) by d/c out the batt, buy a cheap d/c power convertor from sim lim(ard $20) and connect the batt in parallel to charge at home for at least 2hrs. next, d/c all electrical components' connectors & use wd40 to flush the metal contacts, insert & pull out the connectors a few times to make sure it's throughly clean. the components to take note of cleaning are- all connectors to the batt, batt terminals, connectors of rectifier+relay starter+solenoid relay.

it's highly recommended to clean all the contacts & check the water level in ur batt once every 3-4 months. takes few mins to complete but will assure u of troublefree start up! works for my planet so i guess works for monsters too...

[ellamcoy]

I had installed a AutoGuage Volt meter on my 748. After 5 days leaving it out shine n rain, the voltage will be reading at the 10v level once the key is turned. When u try to e-start, it will drop to 9v and go back to 10v immediately. 2nd attempt, if still can't start, voltage will be reading at 8v-flat. Usually 2nd try will kick it very seldom requires 3 tries.

 

I had changed to the dry cell, the same type used on GOLD WING, so far so good, maintaince free. I had also replaced the retifier, guess it is the latest series.

 

Charging should be no less the 14v with 3-5k rpms. During idling, meter shld read 12v+

 

I had a bypass switch for the headlamp, which i off it 2mins before killing the engine to enhance last minutes "top up". Coz i not sure when will be the nxt time i get to ride it again.

[mao1905]

Originally posted by ellamcoy@Apr 8 2006, 11:23 PM

I had installed a AutoGuage Volt meter on my 748. After 5 days leaving it out shine n rain, the voltage will be reading at the 10v level once the key is turned. When u try to e-start, it will drop to 9v and go back to 10v immediately. 2nd attempt, if still can't start, voltage will be reading at 8v-flat. Usually 2nd try will kick it very seldom requires 3 tries.

 

I had changed to the dry cell, the same type used on GOLD WING, so far so good, maintaince free. I had also replaced the retifier, guess it is the latest series.

 

Charging should be no less the 14v with 3-5k rpms. During idling, meter shld read 12v+

 

I had a bypass switch for the headlamp, which i off it 2mins before killing the engine to enhance last minutes "top up". Coz i not sure when will be the nxt time i get to ride it again.

eh... where did you go to make the by pass?

 

i'm interested.

[Guest nE0]

The battery charging current is limited not by voltage, but by a fuse, usually 30amps. Its located right at the bottom of the bike, below the battery area (For 749/999s)

 

A rectifier's job is to convert the AC voltage from the alternator to DC Voltage. It will smooth the DC waveform and limit voltage to 14volts.

 

When the electrical system is overloaded, the voltage will drop, so having a good voltmeter can detect potential problems with the electrical system. Note that the voltmeter must be wired properly, I've seen as much as 3volts difference between a cheap Voltmeter and measuring using my Fluke Digital multimeter.

 

To save battery, I usually turn off all lights before entering the carpark. WHen starting the bike, i'll make sure the headlight is not on, only turning them on when I reach the mainroad. The Euro type right hand switches is a fantastic upgrade and should be on all bikes.

[-tRuSt-]

Originally posted by ktkt@Apr 8 2006, 12:20 PM

The farny sound is the fuel pump priming the lines. So it's a good sign tat it is working. if no sound, means pump faulty or relay spoil.

 

If can start the starter, means the starter circuit okay.

Figure it's becos when repeatedly thumb the e-start, drained the batt. A fully charged battery is only good for a certain no. of cranking. So a battery not in an optimal state will allow allow one or two crank, worse case, not even a single crank.

U can try opening the throttle abit to or use the throttle opener lever if you have one (basically the lever opens the throttle) when you thumb the e-start.

 

On cold wet days, sometimes I have to manually e-start the bike (using the throttle lever/open throttle) when my remote e-start fails to work.

 

Like I mention, gotta eliminate one option one by one.

It's like go see Doctor, doctor also roughly troubleshoot based on your feedback but ususally I see Doctor get MC nia.

 

1) How old is your battery? 2 year and above, get a new one. (get a gel based one to replace the heavier wet style model if tat's wat on your bike now.)

2) Rectifier working? A Dead rectifier will fail to charge your battery

3) Actually, frequent/short trips will tend not to charge battery (ie. daily 5km rides to the office cos not long enuff to charge the batt ie. X amount of energy to start the bike, only charge back X-100 amount of energy while riding the bike or none if rectifier not working/or batt cannot hold charge due to sulfation/age)

4) Never use before but get a battery tender if you're not riding long enuff to charge the battery

5) Well, you can try to richen the pilot circuitry to make it start slightly easier. (combination of air screw adjustment, and CO2 trimmer on the ECU which can lean or richen the mixture)

 

Try to learn how to push-start your bike. It'll prove invaluable.

Do update us!

 

Capirossi in 2nd position for Qatar Race.

Gibernau in 7th right behind Rossi.

 

Think Capirossi in a good position to win back-2-back races!

 

BTW, I supposed u keep ur bike under a bike cover rite?

thanx bro! yup i cover my bike...

[-tRuSt-]

Originally posted by cagiva03@Apr 8 2006, 05:49 PM

Bro, which model of Ducati are u riding???

 

Even though my 749 is just a year old, the ECU spoil already....But i do recognise a similiarity between urs and mine... Cos ex-owner of my bike seldom ride. U can imagine how often he use the vehicle when he just clock a milage of 3500KM after a year! I have a feeling all this problems arised after we park the bike for too long without riding.... Anybody here encounter the same problems??? It seems that, those who ride it often tends to have less problems. Am i right to say that?

riding a 996... kind of aways worrying problems about the batt...

[Roadster]

Hi all,

 

Need some help here.

 

I am looking to replace the stock plastic bar ends on my 900SS. The aim is to replace it with something more substantial to help alleviate buzz/vibration on my longer rides.

 

I understand that the stock Ducati clip-on bars are thicker than most and some modification might be required for some after-market bar ends.

 

Is there a shop here in Singapore that sells bar ends specifically for Ducati models?

[-tRuSt-]

saw a battery tender selling at motoworld n also a battery charger... which one is better? which one should i buy...

[rotary79]

I have a NEW "Headlight protection Cover" Iridium colour. By Power Broze.. For 748/916/996/998. Selling $50. Think new cost me close to $100.

SMS me at 81121973

[NoLogicOne]

Sorry guys, about the 8th Sat track.....did not really check or call to find out track available or not.

 

I've rescheduled it to 14th, which is on Good Friday. So far the website did not indicate closed, and they have a holiday on 11th, which is not on our sg calender.

 

Hope you guys could make it. Maybe someone could call to confirm?

 

15th and 16th are out as it's under booking.

[ellamcoy]

Originally posted by mao1905@Apr 8 2006, 11:39 PM

eh... where did you go to make the by pass?

 

i'm interested.

Done it at a shop in near Queenway Shopping Centre The voltmeter is like a feedback system, when u revs the ride but the volt's needle don't moves, it is time u can ride n park in a workshop to save on the tow truck fees!

 

I went to Sim Lim Tower to get a small toggle switches at $2. Went to the shop to fix up think about $10 or $20, can't remember liao. Habitually on/off the switch in n out of carpark like NEO for past 14mths, problems free....

[-tRuSt-]

Originally posted by rotary79@Apr 9 2006, 12:34 PM

I have a NEW "Headlight protection Cover" Iridium colour. By Power Broze.. For 748/916/996/998. Selling $50. Think new cost me close to $100.

SMS me at 81121973

any pics?

[-tRuSt-]

Originally posted by ellamcoy@Apr 9 2006, 12:59 PM

Done it at a shop in near Queenway Shopping Centre The voltmeter is like a feedback system, when u revs the ride but the volt's needle don't moves, it is time u can ride n park in a workshop to save on the tow truck fees!

 

I went to Sim Lim Tower to get a small toggle switches at $2. Went to the shop to fix up think about $10 or $20, can't remember liao. Habitually on/off the switch in n out of carpark like NEO for past 14mths, problems free....

how about those normal voltmeter... is it advisable to install one ? thought of fixing one ... brands like auto gauge etc...

[rdmc]

Just goin off topic for awhile, does anybody know where I can get my 916 washed n polished? I am looking for a place that is in the east area.

[ktkt]

Originally posted by rdmc@Apr 9 2006, 05:37 PM

Just goin off topic for awhile, does anybody know where I can get my 916 washed n polished? I am looking for a place that is in the east area.

Think the best method is to DIY clean yourself.

Do it when the bike is cool and when you're done with it, go for a warm up round to clear any water that might be residing in the engine crevices.

[ktkt]

Originally posted by [-tRuSt-]@Apr 9 2006, 03:31 PM

how about those normal voltmeter... is it advisable to install one ? thought of fixing one ... brands like auto gauge etc...

So u managed to find out what's the trouble?

 

Anyway, I think quite pointless lar.

Just change your battery every 2 years.

 

If cannot e-start, try push-start, if cannot push-start, call for tow-truck.

[ellamcoy]

Originally posted by [-tRuSt-]@Apr 9 2006, 03:31 PM

how about those normal voltmeter... is it advisable to install one ? thought of fixing one ... brands like auto gauge etc...

Hmm...try to get the smoked screen type. Very accurate. Try to avoid those with colour switching function, the inductor in the meter got saturation and the needle will be all over the place during high revs

[ellamcoy]

Originally posted by ktkt@Apr 9 2006, 08:47 PM

So u managed to find out what's the trouble?

 

Anyway, I think quite pointless lar.

Just change your battery every 2 years.

 

If cannot e-start, try push-start, if cannot push-start, call for tow-truck.

Good advice i intend to change the batt every two years.

[oranje]

Originally posted by NoLogicOne@Apr 9 2006, 12:37 PM

Sorry guys, about the 8th Sat track.....did not really check or call to find out track available or not.

 

I've rescheduled it to 14th, which is on Good Friday. So far the website did not indicate closed, and they have a holiday on 11th, which is not on our sg calender.

 

Hope you guys could make it. Maybe someone could call to confirm?

 

15th and 16th are out as it's under booking.

fri sounds good. i'm keen

 

are u guys going?

[D.O.C]

im on

so far red rocket and flowers are also on.

[cagiva03]

sh*t, i am going to miss this track session, cos i am working on this Friday and Saturday! What a waste.....