[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Ah Pek]

is 5.5k rpm at 100km/h good? I've been wondering..

 

That's VERY good if its consistant...nothing stays the same though.

[Dimac]

That's VERY good if its consistant...nothing stays the same though.

 

how come ah? mine already close to 6.. maybe becoz of my sprocket wearing out.. does dat makes a diff in rpm?

[Ah Pek]

how come ah? mine already close to 6.. maybe becoz of my sprocket wearing out.. does dat makes a diff in rpm?

 

Normally its about 6k rpm. Probably calibration issue +/- give and take a bit. No two bike leaves the factory are ever the same though of similar model and made

 

I've seen a meter needle taken off its stalk and glued back (accident repair case). The needle stalk was not FULLY at its "0" setting and after installation and all, you got a meter that read 5k rpm at 100km/hr

Edited August 30, 2009 by Ah Pek

[sherman]

There are NO FIXED "Xkm/L" as to which S4 can give..never seen it in written manual or any documented test. But base on average real life usage by most riders here in Singapore, believable figures and average is about 18 to 24km/l. This said, its a very subject issue like depending on the route you take daily, the number of start/stop, your riding style, your bike configuration (from tyres size, chain slack adjust, tyre pressure, eo type..etc)..and the list goes on. Even the same route you takes everyday is never the same with the traffic situation.

 

Not running on express way is a disadvantage with regards to having more mileage covered per tank full as there are too many start/stop riding. Your speed and rpm change seem average just like most ppl but that does not mean you be achieving the same and compare as such for the others may be riding like you but daily on an expressway to and from work etc.

 

Its hard to gauge your bike whether if there's anything wrong or not just by reading your post..free today (Sunday morning) come to Teck Ghee Square and let some of your fellow S4 riders share their thoughts and evaluate your ride.

 

I have come across a 3 years old Spec 3...very new and low in total mileage, smooth beautiful clean engine..etc and clocks only 16km/l. So, age of bike is neither a major concern too. Have to see your bike in order to narrow down your 'problem'.

 

thank you very much for the info..

[fx110]

is 5.5k rpm at 100km/h good? I've been wondering..

me too

around 7500RPM was 140km/h

Sprocket:rear 42 front 14

 

 

how come ah? mine already close to 6.. maybe becoz of my sprocket wearing out.. does dat makes a diff in rpm?

maybe is Sprocket:rear 44 front 14

 

 

Normally its about 6k rpm. Probably calibration issue +/- give and take a bit. No two bike leaves the factory are ever the same though of similar modeland made

 

I've seen a meter needle taken off its stalk and glued back (accident repair case). The needle stalk was not FULLY at its "0" setting and after installation and all, you got a meter that read 5k rpm at 100km/hr

 

Hi Ah Pek,

long time i nv post here:cheeky:

 

currentl R&D on the cyclone intake, testing on my NC23(1st full tank havent finish).

 

I have a spare NC31's air box

i already get the diameter(funnel ID) for NC31, unfortunately the carb 1 and 4 unable to cyclone intake, coz hand unable to reach:(

[Dimac]

me too

around 7500RPM was 140km/h

Sprocket:rear 42 front 14

 

 

 

maybe is Sprocket:rear 44 front 14

 

 

 

 

Hi Ah Pek,

long time i nv post here:cheeky:

 

currentl R&D on the cyclone intake, testing on my NC23(1st full tank havent finish).

 

I have a spare NC31's air box

i already get the diameter(funnel ID) for NC31, unfortunately the carb 1 and 4 unable to cyclone intake, coz hand unable to reach:(

 

 

im using stock sprocket btw..

[kifakw]

If ist the slider pin (long one), its about $15 to $18 a piece..give and take with the increase in the Yens. Myself kenna ku_toke at $22 almost 2 years ago..never frequent that motodiam again. Better asked first because stripping the carbs can be charge so call "carbs servcing" price at $48 more.

 

 

i dont know what pin is it. but i guess there are not many pins inside a carburettor.

 

so that means it's around $100plus to change the pins. cause i went planet, ah chong said its the pin that's causing the backfiring. he quoted me $200+ though.

 

or there are more things to change within a carburettor itself beside just the pin? hmms

[Ah Pek]

me too

around 7500RPM was 140km/h

Sprocket:rear 42 front 14

 

 

 

maybe is Sprocket:rear 44 front 14

 

 

 

 

Hi Ah Pek,

long time i nv post here:cheeky:

 

currentl R&D on the cyclone intake, testing on my NC23(1st full tank havent finish).

 

I have a spare NC31's air box

i already get the diameter(funnel ID) for NC31, unfortunately the carb 1 and 4 unable to cyclone intake, coz hand unable to reach:(

 

Hope the angle of the blades are somewhat correct and effective. Let me know if there is any fc improvement after your test.

 

Two?..can't you insert it thru to the front?

[fx110]

im using stock sprocket btw..

 

just wonder your stock is what's was the setting:cheeky:

meet once the vtec's rider, he tell me stock was 15/46:faint:

 

 

Hope the angle of the blades are somewhat correct and effective. Let me know if there is any fc improvement after your test.

 

Two?..can't you insert it thru to the front?

 

insert infront should be no problem, need take out the whole air box:sian:

discuss more if have time for meetup

[ghs]

Hi guys, was wondering if a mech say that my bike has head crack, and the coolant leaking from the left side engine drainage, what will happen?

 

Was told that it require 1.5k to overhaul and about 1 week!

[fx110]

Hi guys, was wondering if a mech say that my bike has head crack, and the coolant leaking from the left side engine drainage, what will happen?

 

Was told that it require 1.5k to overhaul and about 1 week!

 

common word from shop:faint:

$$$ solve every thing........

 

i had the same problem last time,

have a solution there, use sealant 1st:) (more info from AhPek)

[ghs]

common word from shop:faint:

$$$ solve every thing........

 

i had the same problem last time,

have a solution there, use sealant 1st:) (more info from AhPek)

 

Thanks bro.. yea man its not a small sum, furthermore need to leave it in the shop for days...

 

actually wanted to go down to seek help from ahpek too hehe but today raining whole day leh..

 

what are the implications of the problem ah? also heard its really common for ver S..

[fx110]

Thanks bro.. yea man its not a small sum, furthermore need to leave it in the shop for days...

 

actually wanted to go down to seek help from ahpek too hehe but today raining whole day leh..

 

what are the implications of the problem ah? also heard its really common for ver S..

 

mostly overheat by the previous owner:sian:

[Ianie]

Thanks bro.. yea man its not a small sum, furthermore need to leave it in the shop for days...

 

actually wanted to go down to seek help from ahpek too hehe but today raining whole day leh..

 

what are the implications of the problem ah? also heard its really common for ver S..

 

been there. suffered that. tried ah pek anti leakage. works.

 

changing top block is about $800 for 2nd hand was quoted by plant motor.

 

ask ah pek for more details.

[Mizarahi]

Hi guys, was wondering if a mech say that my bike has head crack, and the coolant leaking from the left side engine drainage, what will happen?

 

Was told that it require 1.5k to overhaul and about 1 week!

 

The motodiam i went only put epoxy sealant at the engine block.

The sealant is grey in color, not very nice.

So far no leaking.

[Ah Pek]

The motodiam i went only put epoxy sealant at the engine block.

The sealant is grey in color, not very nice.

So far no leaking.

 

Good luck and hope internally the crack don't spread further. More important is finding what causes the crack and have leakage. For your case, its like sweeping dust under the carpet.

[Ah Pek]

been there. suffered that. tried ah pek anti leakage. works.

 

changing top block is about $800 for 2nd hand was quoted by plant motor.

 

ask ah pek for more details.

 

Thanks for your kind words Ianie

[Ah Pek]

common word from shop:faint:

$$$ solve every thing........

 

i had the same problem last time,

have a solution there, use sealant 1st:) (more info from AhPek)

 

Thanks fx110!

[Ah Pek]

Hi guys, was wondering if a mech say that my bike has head crack, and the coolant leaking from the left side engine drainage, what will happen?

 

Was told that it require 1.5k to overhaul and about 1 week!

 

Solving the leakage is one thing..the more important thing is what causes the block to cracked..it has to do with your coolant system not working such that its overheating till the block material cannot take on the xtreme heat and pressure.

[smoothie]

hi ah pek thanks for helping me w coolant change last wk and recommending me to your regular bikeshop for tyre change. i was at amk hub the other day & driving so decided to pop by ntuc to buy the wax/polish pdts you recommended. spent almost $100 buying 6-7 bottles of stuff fr various places.

 

i also bought sandpaper w the intention of sanding my headers. i bought the finest waterproof one fr homefix but i'm not sure if its the right one. is 3M 413Q 400 Wetordry Tri-M-ite Paper A suitable?

[Ah Pek]

hi ah pek thanks for helping me w coolant change last wk and recommending me to your regular bikeshop for tyre change. i was at amk hub the other day & driving so decided to pop by ntuc to buy the wax/polish pdts you recommended. spent almost $100 buying 6-7 bottles of stuff fr various places.

 

i also bought sandpaper w the intention of sanding my headers. i bought the finest waterproof one fr homefix but i'm not sure if its the right one. is 3M 413Q 400 Wetordry Tri-M-ite Paper A suitable?

 

Wow...sound like your bike is going to go thru a "makeover" into a "blink blink" machine in no time.

 

Sorry..can't tell if the sand paper is ok but since you mentioned "fine" should be alright lah.

 

Yes, its gonna be a lot of weekend free time work but the result on yur ride is gonna be a satisfied one!

[ghs]

Solving the leakage is one thing..the more important thing is what causes the block to cracked..it has to do with your coolant system not working such that its overheating till the block material cannot take on the xtreme heat and pressure.

 

yea.. so with sealant it just solve the leakage, however anyway to trace to the coolant system and fix it + sealant the leak so that the crack will have coolant supplied and wont crack any further?

 

not really keen to overhaul, tough decision..

[Ianie]

yea.. so with sealant it just solve the leakage, however anyway to trace to the coolant system and fix it + sealant the leak so that the crack will have coolant supplied and wont crack any further?

 

not really keen to overhaul, tough decision..

lol i encounter the same problem as you. wanted to over haul the over time.

already arrange with the shop everything. but last min backed out.

 

cause ah pek told me something that changed my mind.

 

"i would not change the block if i were you"

 

hahahaha. in the end i didnt. and i made the right choice. other wise. 1k would just gone down the drain.

[Ah Pek]

yea.. so with sealant it just solve the leakage, however anyway to trace to the coolant system and fix it + sealant the leak so that the crack will have coolant supplied and wont crack any further?

 

not really keen to overhaul, tough decision..

 

Its not as difficult as one thinks..there are procedure and steps to be taken unless you wanna have it all at one go. Read on...

 

1) What causes the crack? Ans: Heat and pressure that is not moving away from the block.

 

2) What causes the heat? Ans: Coolant trapped in the coolant system especially water jacket around the engine block.

 

3) What causes trapped coolant? Ans: Coolant impeller jammed (Coolant pump) or jammed or partially faulty thermostat.

 

4) What causes the above? Ans: Bad coolant and especially those that have been maintain by mototiam that do not use distilled or deionsed water which causes rust and dirt residue over long period of used. Rust from radiator coolant tubing would formed and be carried around and get stuck to the sticky soft surface (constriting volume flow as the hose inner diameter gets smaller) of your coolant rubber tubing when its hot...and oso rust would acculate and affect an act as abrasive to the coolant pump and thermostat..eventually rusting and deterioration in function.

 

The ideal solution is 1st to clean the coolant system (don't flush with acidic agent). Refilled with clean coolant that is premixed with distilled or deionsed water with right proportion of leak sealant fixture. Wait and see if all is well after a few weeks of used. If all is well, considered it a solution or temperoray till you have the budget to get a new block. If you decide to leave it as it is..it's ok too.

 

If engine still overheat and does coolant level does not dropped still, its either the thermostat not opening or the impeller is bad (can be any of the six blades broken off or rotor shaft went bad) and not propelling the flow pressure. It can be both the component gone wrong too.

 

If you have the budget, changed both items. Note: This is only when the block don't leak anymore but engine is still overheating. After changing and still kind of hot and coolant level dropped, change coolant type.

 

Hope the above helps:sian:

[Ianie]

ok 1 question. how long is it recommended to flush coolant? i think it has been 4 months since u flushed and top up for me