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Posted
Ah Pek... Oh no it happen again... This morning came bk from JB, while awaiting at the last custom last check point, one kind malaysian uncle biker pointed out to me that my "tan-ke jui" leaking... Its jus a 10min wait/queue, its started boiling...

 

When I reach home, I check the reservior, its EMPTY ! Before that it still inbetween the high n low marking...

 

Sian....:cry: Top up again with the merz coolant... Now left a little bit...

 

Any suggestion Master ?

 

10 mins is a long time. Leaking as in from the coolant reserve tank? If that's the case and the coolant dries up, it's probably either the coolant pump or thermostat not working or partially ..or can be both but unlikely. In the meantime, please do top up with whatever you have.

 

Monitor again and I need if your fan did cut on or not and also did your red "temp" light indicator comes on. This is for my further troubleshooting purposes.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Posted

ah pek

my fan seems to be always on after riding long distance

can feel the heat from the engine

what is the issue?

my coolant reservoir seems to be ok

Posted
ah pek

my fan seems to be always on after riding long distance

can feel the heat from the engine

what is the issue?

my coolant reservoir seems to be ok

 

The issue is with the radiator fan switch. It could be faulty or replace with a lower temperature sensor one (non S4 standard). The fan is normally cut on when coolant temperature reaches 110 degreed Celius or before 128 degreed Celius for a typical S4.

 

So in your case, your fan may have cut on at 98 degreed Celius (earlier). If this is the case, it means that your switch has been replaced before with a lower temperature cut on one which may be meant for other model of bikes which may have a smaller engine. If this is the case, there is no harm just that it cuts on earlier. Some people deliberately want this and they changed it.

 

Note: If your temp red light comes on and the fan never spin..the switch is faulty. Take note that boiling point is at 100 degreed Celius.

 

I know of having a earlier cut on radiator switch that is much lower at about may be 85 degreed Celius. What happened is that the fan comes on there and then and even after switching off engine after a ride, with engine off, the fan still running for a minute or so..this is what he wanted.

 

In summary..no worries.:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
10 mins is a long time. Leaking as in from the coolant reserve tank? If that's the case and the coolant dries up, it's probably either the coolant pump or thermostat not working or partially ..or can be both but unlikely. In the meantime, please do top up with whatever you have.

 

Monitor again and I need if your fan did cut on or not and also did your red "temp" light indicator comes on. This is for my further troubleshooting purposes.

 

Yup top up yesterday already...

 

Leaking is from the reserve tank where steam exit when it becomes too hot...

 

Did not take note of whether the fan cuts in anot... but the "temp" light indicator didn't comes on...

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/glennkoh/TDM900/TDM.jpg
Posted
Yup top up yesterday already...

 

Leaking is from the reserve tank where steam exit when it becomes too hot...

 

Did not take note of whether the fan cuts in anot... but the "temp" light indicator didn't comes on...

 

Ok..u've to monitor the fan. If cuts on and still boils..meaning, it could be a faulty switch. To confirm if the thermostat is ok..after warming up 3 mins or so..touch the top big fat coolant hose on your right side of the radiator and see if its hot. If it is, it confirm that the thermostat is opening.

 

This would narrow down to either the switch or the pump not working well.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
The issue is with the radiator fan switch. It could be faulty or replace with a lower temperature sensor one (non S4 standard). The fan is normally cut on when coolant temperature reaches 110 degreed Celius or before 128 degreed Celius for a typical S4.

 

So in your case, your fan may have cut on at 98 degreed Celius (earlier). If this is the case, it means that your switch has been replaced before with a lower temperature cut on one which may be meant for other model of bikes which may have a smaller engine. If this is the case, there is no harm just that it cuts on earlier. Some people deliberately want this and they changed it.

 

Note: If your temp red light comes on and the fan never spin..the switch is faulty. Take note that boiling point is at 100 degreed Celius.

 

I know of having a earlier cut on radiator switch that is much lower at about may be 85 degreed Celius. What happened is that the fan comes on there and then and even after switching off engine after a ride, with engine off, the fan still running for a minute or so..this is what he wanted.

 

In summary..no worries.:sian:

 

 

okok thanks for the detailed explaination

:angel:

Posted
The issue is with the radiator fan switch. It could be faulty or replace with a lower temperature sensor one (non S4 standard). The fan is normally cut on when coolant temperature reaches 110 degreed Celius or before 128 degreed Celius for a typical S4.

 

So in your case, your fan may have cut on at 98 degreed Celius (earlier). If this is the case, it means that your switch has been replaced before with a lower temperature cut on one which may be meant for other model of bikes which may have a smaller engine. If this is the case, there is no harm just that it cuts on earlier. Some people deliberately want this and they changed it.

 

Note: If your temp red light comes on and the fan never spin..the switch is faulty. Take note that boiling point is at 100 degreed Celius.

 

I know of having a earlier cut on radiator switch that is much lower at about may be 85 degreed Celius. What happened is that the fan comes on there and then and even after switching off engine after a ride, with engine off, the fan still running for a minute or so..this is what he wanted.

 

In summary..no worries.:sian:

 

currently using this kind of thermo-switch.

work good :thumb:

Posted

Just did ah pek special "grounding"

 

ah pek even explain to me what the difference between his grounding and some bike shops grounding.

 

Bike now feels smoother and definately more responsive

 

up for ah pek!!

 

now cant wait for his new blend of EO!

It aint me officer...The bike is POSSESSED!!:lol:

Posted
Ok..u've to monitor the fan. If cuts on and still boils..meaning, it could be a faulty switch. To confirm if the thermostat is ok..after warming up 3 mins or so..touch the top big fat coolant hose on your right side of the radiator and see if its hot. If it is, it confirm that the thermostat is opening.

 

This would narrow down to either the switch or the pump not working well.

 

The top big fat coolant hose is hot after warming up...as you have touch it that day...

 

Drying up the reserve tank within a short time and the steam/coolant expel out from the top of the tank...

 

But even if I bypass the fan and switch it on it still have the problem as experience the last time...

 

So its either the switch or pump rite ? Anyway to tell who is the culprit ?

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/glennkoh/TDM900/TDM.jpg
Posted
The top big fat coolant hose is hot after warming up...as you have touch it that day...

 

Drying up the reserve tank within a short time and the steam/coolant expel out from the top of the tank...

 

But even if I bypass the fan and switch it on it still have the problem as experience the last time...

 

So its either the switch or pump rite ? Anyway to tell who is the culprit ?

 

At xtreme coolant heat like that and the fan don't cut on automatically, it's the temperature 'sensor' of the radiator fan switch is faulty..need to change switch. If the fan cuts "ON"..the switch is ok. That the coolant pump is suspected.

 

The pump suspose to pump the lower section of coolant upwards to cool the engine..if it does not work, the coolant content from the upper coolant hose of the pump to the engine block water jacket are all trapped and get overheated bekuz they do not circulate.

 

The above senario may not be true.

 

Not to oversight, take off your tank and check see if the radiator cap is ok first as you mentioned coolant liek steam stuff is coming off there. Yes, this can ried up the reserve coolant tank. See if the soft thick rubber is 'hraden'..britter or have cracks along its circumference. Bend it and see if its flatten oso.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
At xtreme coolant heat like that and the fan don't cut on automatically, it's the temperature 'sensor' of the radiator fan switch is faulty..need to change switch. If the fan cuts "ON"..the switch is ok. That the coolant pump is suspected.

 

The pump suspose to pump the lower section of coolant upwards to cool the engine..if it does not work, the coolant content from the upper coolant hose of the pump to the engine block water jacket are all trapped and get overheated bekuz they do not circulate.

 

The above senario may not be true.

 

Not to oversight, take off your tank and check see if the radiator cap is ok first as you mentioned coolant liek steam stuff is coming off there. Yes, this can ried up the reserve coolant tank. See if the soft thick rubber is 'hraden'..britter or have cracks along its circumference. Bend it and see if its flatten oso.

 

Can advise the cost of the radiator fan switch ?

 

Seems like the pump is the main suspect, as even a manual bypass of the fan still have this problem... Nevertheless, I'll change a new radiator cap that I've brought that day... Hoping that it the source of the problem... If not LL have to change the pump...

 

Sounds like a detective stories....:dot:

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/glennkoh/TDM900/TDM.jpg
Posted
Can advise the cost of the radiator fan switch ?

 

Seems like the pump is the main suspect, as even a manual bypass of the fan still have this problem... Nevertheless, I'll change a new radiator cap that I've brought that day... Hoping that it the source of the problem... If not LL have to change the pump...

 

Sounds like a detective stories....:dot:

 

Hmmm...you should monitor the fan auto cut "ON" first. It could just be the case of the switch ($38)..that's provided the temp lights olso comes on. The other option is to have the thermostat remove and ride around for a while..if nothing happened, then the thermostat is at fault ($48 at planet)..the pump cost $160 wif coolant replacement at Ah Fook moto.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hmmm...you should monitor the fan auto cut "ON" first. It could just be the case of the switch ($38)..that's provided the temp lights olso comes on. The other option is to have the thermostat remove and ride around for a while..if nothing happened, then the thermostat is at fault ($48 at planet)..the pump cost $160 wif coolant replacement at Ah Fook moto.

 

Same things happen again... Yesterday top up the reserve tank to high level...

Just now came bk from work, half way felt that the reserve tank starting boiling again, fan didn't turn on. The fan light didn't light up. I was afraid of over heating, so switch on the fan by the manual bypass switch. Reaching home, check the reserve tank = empty...

 

As for removing the thermostat, how to ah ?

 

If all trial failed, I'll replace the pump then...

 

Thanks for all yr advise, Master !

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/glennkoh/TDM900/TDM.jpg
Posted
Same things happen again... Yesterday top up the reserve tank to high level...

Just now came bk from work, half way felt that the reserve tank starting boiling again, fan didn't turn on. The fan light didn't light up. I was afraid of over heating, so switch on the fan by the manual bypass switch. Reaching home, check the reserve tank = empty...

 

As for removing the thermostat, how to ah ?

 

If all trial failed, I'll replace the pump then...

 

Thanks for all yr advise, Master !

 

Ok..enough of Sherlock Homes work..LOL! If I were you, I will change the radiator switch first (about $38). Go get from Ah boy, I fixed it for you.:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

i just collected my bike fr ah fook's today & it's just fantastic! the first thing i noticed is that the headlight is much brighter than before - probably thanks to the new yuasa battery.

 

i also noticed that my rpm at 100km/h, which used to be ard 6300, is now exactly 6000. anyone knows the main cause for this? i changed a few stuff so i'm not sure if any one particular thing caused it:

 

1. changed shinko battery (which ah fook said wld have died anytime soon if i cont using) to yuasa

 

2. changed from chiong washable air filter to k & n (made in usa)

 

3. changed spark plugs to ngk normal ones - old ones were rusty and layered with carbon

 

4. changed from mfizz (i think LAB brand) chain / vtec 44 teeth sprocket to DID x-ring / honda 42 teeth sprockets

 

thanks!

Posted
i just collected my bike fr ah fook's today & it's just fantastic! the first thing i noticed is that the headlight is much brighter than before - probably thanks to the new yuasa battery.

 

i also noticed that my rpm at 100km/h, which used to be ard 6300, is now exactly 6000. anyone knows the main cause for this? i changed a few stuff so i'm not sure if any one particular thing caused it:

 

1. changed shinko battery (which ah fook said wld have died anytime soon if i cont using) to yuasa

 

2. changed from chiong washable air filter to k & n (made in usa)

 

3. changed spark plugs to ngk normal ones - old ones were rusty and layered with carbon

 

4. changed from mfizz (i think LAB brand) chain / vtec 44 teeth sprocket to DID x-ring / honda 42 teeth sprockets

 

thanks!

 

drop in rpm at 100kmh definitely caused by change in sprocket size

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p48/allen_key/KS_400.jpg
Posted

HI all , just got my cb 400 vs not long, was wondering wheres the coolant located, tried a visual check , but no luck finding it . Any help is appreciated :cheeky:

Past ride~

SP 150

CB 400 ver s

Cbr 600 * Current*

Posted
HI all , just got my cb 400 vs not long, was wondering wheres the coolant located, tried a visual check , but no luck finding it . Any help is appreciated :cheeky:

 

Below your seat on the right side..there is a cover..remove the two allen key nut. Take it off, you should see a plastic semi transparent container with a rubber topper cap..that's your coolant reservoir. It shold have coolant (in colour) and level so be at least above the lower line level marking.

 

If the coolant inside is brownish or rusty like colours mixed with coolant colour..better have your system cleanse and refilled. Pm me if you need any help. Good luck.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

thanks ah pek for recommending the dunlop arrowmax tyre.. this feeling is very shiok.. can corner anytime.. straight road also very smooth..

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted
thanks ah pek for recommending the dunlop arrowmax tyre.. this feeling is very shiok.. can corner anytime.. straight road also very smooth..

 

:cheeky:..glad you like it. Btw...did u advised him on the tyre's pressure that I recommended?..and how's the second eo changed mannn?

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

went for an eo change today.. can feel the difference straightaway.. my rpm at 100km/h drops further to 5.8 from previous 5.9.. think its the x1-r effect.. really thankful to ah pek for bringing such a good product.. anything will update again.. =)

Rides : :gun:

YBR125 (Nov 2007 - Mar 2009 )

CB400 PB1 (Mar 2009 - Mar 2010 )

FZ6S S1 (Present)

Posted

Ty ah pek that helps, probably gonna check on it before my next ride. :cool:

Erm , does anyone experience this 'sinking' effect of the front suspension when positioning the bike upright after a sidestand parking? (It does not rebound after it sinks down ) But when i forcefully test the suspension it compress and rebound like a normal suspension . Anyone encounter this problem before? there's no weird sound or squeaking when it happen. hopefully its not anything serious :x

Past ride~

SP 150

CB 400 ver s

Cbr 600 * Current*

Posted
Ty ah pek that helps, probably gonna check on it before my next ride. :cool:

Erm , does anyone experience this 'sinking' effect of the front suspension when positioning the bike upright after a sidestand parking? (It does not rebound after it sinks down ) But when i forcefully test the suspension it compress and rebound like a normal suspension . Anyone encounter this problem before? there's no weird sound or squeaking when it happen. hopefully its not anything serious :x

 

Even new bikes got this "allowance sag"..just that older bike got slightly more. Its normal.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Ok..enough of Sherlock Homes work..LOL! If I were you, I will change the radiator switch first (about $38). Go get from Ah boy, I fixed it for you.:sian:

 

Haha... Cheers Pek Sherlock !!!:thumb:

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/glennkoh/TDM900/TDM.jpg

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